Chiang Mai

Ancient city wall and moat

Chiang Mai (เชียงใหม่) is the hub of Northern Thailand. With a population of over 170,000 in the city proper (but more than one million in the metropolitan area), it is Thailand's sixth-largest city. Located on a plain at an elevation of 316 m, surrounded by mountains and lush countryside, it is much greener and quieter than the capital and has a cosmopolitan air and a significant expatriate population - all factors which have led many from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "Rose of the North".

Understand

Founded in 1296 CE, Chiang Mai is a culturally and historically interesting city, at one time the capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. Located among the rolling foothills of the Himalayas 700 km north of Bangkok, it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant trek until the 1920s. This isolation helped preserve Chiang Mai's distinctive charm, intact to this day.

Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city ("city" is chiang in the northern Thai dialect while mai is new, hence Chiang Mai="New City"). Sections of the wall dating to their restoration a few decades ago remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains.

Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese-, Sri Lankan-, and Lanna Thai-styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away.

Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east to the banks of the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Chang Klan Rd, the famous Night Bazaar, and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guest houses are located. Loi Kroh Rd is the centre of the city's night life.

Locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi, and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang. Of course this is touristic blather, but the Kao Soi, Bo Sang umbrellas, and Doi Suthep are important cultural icons for Chiang Mai natives.

Climate

Climate	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Daily highs (°C)	30	32	35	36	34	32	32	31	31	31	30	28
Nightly lows (°C)	14	15	18	22	23	24	24	23	23	22	19	15
Precipitation (mm)	7	5	13	50	158	132	161	236	228	122	53	20
Check Chiang Mai's 7-day forecast at TMD.go.th

Chiang Mai's northern location and moderate elevation results in the city having a more temperate climate than that of the south.

As in the rest of Thailand there are three distinct seasons:

• A cool season from Nov-Feb.
• A hot season from Mar-Jun.
• A wet season from Jul-Oct.

Get in

International departure hall at Chiang Mai Airport

By plane

Chiang Mai International Airport (IATA: CNX; ICAO: VTCC) [1] handles both domestic and regional international flights. The route from Bangkok is one of the busiest in the country (Thai Airways flies daily almost every hour, with additional flights in the peak tourist season). Other airlines operating direct services from/to Chiang Mai include:

Domestic

• Air Asia [2] A well-known Asian low-cost airline, flies from/to Bangkok (Don Muang airport) and Phuket. Usually it's the cheapest choice if you book at least a week before, with price tag starting from 1,400 baht (plus fees for luggage, food, seat reservation) from Bangkok and 2,000-2,500 baht from Phuket; promotional fares may be even cheaper. Their prices can be significantly higher, however, if you book just a few days before, or want a specific day/flight.

• Bangkok Airways [3] To Ko Samui (flights from Ko Samui are indirect), from/to Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi) and Sukhothai. Surprisingly, in many cases Bangkok Airways has the cheapest fares, cheaper than the budget airlines, particularly if you book just one day or a few days ahead.

• Kan Air [4]. Kan Air flies to and from from Chiang Mai to Khon Kaen, Pai, Nan, Mae Hong Son, and Phitsanulok.

• Nok Air [5] Thai (semi-) low-cost carrier, flies from/to Bangkok (Don Muang airport, from 1,400 baht and up) and Mae Hong Son. They also fly from/to Udon Thani, ticket price is 2,400 baht. The latter, while still 4 times more expensive than bus, is more than twice as cheap as the Lao Airlines flight to Vientiane, which is easily accessible from Udon Thani. Nok Air books only up to 3 months in advance.

• Nok Mini [6] Formerly "SGA Air". From/to Mae Hong Son (daily), Udon Thani (daily) and Mae Sot (daily).

International

• Air Asia flies from/to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and Macau
• Cathay Pacific [7] - from/to Hong Kong.
• China Airlines [8] - from/to Taipei, Taiwan
• China Eastern Airlines [9] from/to Kunming, Yunnan Province, China
• Korean Airlines [10] - Four flights weekly from Seoul/Inchon
• Lao Airlines [11] - from/to Luang Prabang in (Laos), from there the flight continues onward to Vientiane
• Silk Air [12] - from/to Singapore
• Thai Airways [13] - from/to Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi Airport only, from 2,500 baht and up, but sometimes there are promo fares as low as 1,500 baht) and Mae Hong Son; in addition, flights from and/or to Phuket & possibly Nan may also be available seasonally.

The airport is some 3 km southwest of the city centre, only 10-15 minutes away by car. Legal airport taxis charge a flat 120 baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city. If you take a metered taxi, the fee will start from 40 baht plus a 50 baht service fee from the Meter Taxi counter. The taxis operate from the exit at the north end of the terminal, after baggage claim and/or customs, walk into the reception hall and turn left. Alternatively, take bus #4 to the city centre for 15 baht, or charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew for 50-60 baht per person. Most hotels and some upmarket guest houses offer cheap or free pick-up/drop-off services.

By bus

Bus stations

Chiang Mai has two official bus stations, consisting of three bus terminals:

• Arcade Bus Station (Terminals 2 and 3) (สถานีขนส่งอาเขตเชียงใหม่) (at the far end of Kaeo Nawarat Rd just before it meets the superhighway), ☎ +66 53 242664. Buses from and to destinations outside Chiang Mai Province use this station. It has two terminals, separated by a tuk-tuk stand and a road.

Terminal 2 has a tourist police office, ATMs, food vendors, and many ticket sellers, including the booking office for government buses. Buses depart from here for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Udon. There seems to be no logic as to what buses go to which destination from which terminal and there is a good deal of overlap.

Terminal 3 is the larger of the two. It has an Internet cafe, small food vendors, ATMs, the booking window for Green Bus (Window 20), and numerous other ticket sellers. Buses for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Ubon, Korat, Nan, Hua Hin, Luang Prabang, Mae Sot depart from here.

• Chang Phuak Bus Station (Terminal 1) (off Chang Phuak Rd, on the north side of the moat, about 1 km north of Chang Phuak Gate), ☎ +66 53 211586. This station handles buses within Chiang Mai Province including Mae Rim, Chiang Dao, Fang, Tha Ton, Phrao, Hot, Chom Thong, Doi Tao, and Samoeng.

In effect, there is a fourth bus terminal if you count songthaews as buses. From the Warorot Market, songthaews depart for a variety of locations within a radius of about 50 km, such as Samoeng. The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common by far are red songthaews (hence the alternative rot daeng ("red car") name), which roam the main streets in the city itself. Warorot Market (west bank of the Ping River) is the most common terminus for songthaews that travel along fixed routes. From Warorot Market, white songthaews travel to the eastern suburban city of San Kampaeng, yellow songthaews travel to Mae Rim and Samoeng in the north, blue songthaews travel to Sarapee and Lamphun in the south, and green songthaews travel to Mae Jo to the northeast.

From Bangkok

A variety of daily buses leave frequently from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit), offering varying choices of price, comfort and speed.

• Rattling government buses make frequent stops at every minor township. The journey takes around 12 hrs and costs 200 baht.

• Non-stop 24/32-seaters and 1st class buses such as Nokhonchai Air provide larger seats and snacks; making the long trip more comfortable. They manage the trip in around 9 hours and it costs around 550 baht. Be cautious about the so-called "VIP" buses touted on Khao San Rd. They may be cheaper, but you may end up crammed into a 2nd class bus or worse.

• Look up ticket availability and book on-line on Pombai [14]

At Arcade Bus Station, where you'll arrive, public songthaews wait nearer Terminal 3, adjacent to the road that bisects the two terminals. Look for local people getting into them, and ask the driver if he goes to your destination (if the songthaew is empty, don't forget to confirm the price). A shared trip to Tha Phae Gate (south edge of the old town) should cost 20 baht each, though you may have to wait for a driver who agrees. Virtually all songthaews will pass Warorot Market (city centre, just after crossing the river), from where it's just 1 km walk to Tha Phae Gate, or numerous (see "Get around" section) songthaews to other areas.

Alternatively, you can charter the whole songthaew or take a tuk-tuk. The drivers will approach you once you've arrived and will ask as much as 80-100 baht to the city centre/Tha Phae Gate, showing you a bogus price list with "fixed" prices. Bargain, it's just 5-6 km, so the fair price for tuk-tuk there is 50 baht, and is not more than 100 baht even to the opposite side of the city. It may be difficult to bargain with these drivers, however. A good idea is to ignore them from the start, walk out to the nearby street, and catch a passing tuk-tuk/songthaew there. If your luggage is light, you can walk to the centre, but it's quite a long walk, as the Arcade bus station is located in the city's northeast outskirts.

Songthaew touts may ask foreign tourists for an outrageous 150 baht per person for a shared ride to town. Challenged, they will drop to 100 baht. Similar prices are demanded by tuk-tuk drivers.

The best policy is to walk to the main street and catch a tuk-tuk for perhaps 60 baht, or a songthaew for perhaps 30 baht per person. You will have to haggle for either.

By train

Services from Bangkok leave on a regular daily schedule [15] and take 12-15 hours to reach Chiang Mai. If you go by night train (recommended), try to choose one which arrives late to get an opportunity to see the landscapes. They are really impressive, with bridges and forests and villages and fields.

Daytime services leave at 08:30, and 14:30 with second-class (281 baht) and third-class (121 baht) carriages. The seats in each class differ in softness and width and can become uncomfortable after 10+ hours.

Overnight sleepers provide comfortable bunks with clean sheets and pillows in first- and second-class. First-class beds (~1,400 baht) are in private two-bed compartments. In second-class (~900 baht), the carriages are open but each bunk has a curtain for privacy. First-class is always air-con, second class is sometimes air-con. There are usually four trains per day with sleeper accommodation, though only two of these will have first-class compartments. Station staff will be able to help you.

Carriages are kept clean; the toilet and floors are regularly mopped during the journey. Vendors make regular rounds selling snacks, drinks, and lacklustre meals. Vendors will try to inflate the prices for tourists so be prepared to get ripped off, haggle, hop off quickly at stations to make a purchase, or bring your own.

In second-class, the bunks are folded away leaving pairs of facing seats. At some point in the evening, or on request, they get flipped down into bunks and made up into beds. In first-class, the bottom bunk is used as a bench seat before having a futon mattress deployed onto it in the evening.

If you're not in the mood for bed when your carriage mates are bedding down, you can head off to the dining car, which provides fairly good food and drink at not too great a premium. Later in the night, the dining car can turn into a disco, complete with loud music and flashing lights.

Tickets can be bought up to 60 days in advance at any station in Thailand. Booking in advance is advised, especially for the popular 2nd-class overnight sleepers. Larger stations accept payment with Visa/MasterCard. This is fairly safe, as SRT is a state-owned company. Alternatively, if you are not yet in Thailand, the SRT e-ticketing [16] website will let you buy and print out an e-ticket. (Important note: The State Railway of Thailand has discontinued the Internet Ticketing service from 14 Jan 2013. No indication of whether this is permanent or temporary). Some find it tricky to register. You have to avoid any special characters while filling the registration form. You must book at least three days in advance, and you can only purchase 1st and 2nd class air-con sleeper tickets (which are 150-200 baht more expensive than fan-only car tickets). The price on-line is exactly what you'd pay in the ticket office. Various travel agencies, some available to contact from outside Thailand, can also procure tickets for delivery or pick up, with fees typically starting at 100 baht.

SRT charges 90 baht to transport a bicycle between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai train station is about 3 km east of the city centre. Many songthaews and tuk-tuks await each train's arrival. If you want to walk, exit the station, cross the open square in front and turn left on the first major road you come to (Charoen Muang Rd); this road goes directly to city centre.

Get around

Orientation

Chiang Mai is defined by the boundaries of the Old City, circumscribed by the moat and old city walls. A full circuit around the Old City, travelling counter-clockwise inside the moat, describes a circumference of roughly 6.5 km.

By songthaew

A songthaew serves as a bus or a taxi.

In lieu of a local bus service, locals get around the city on songthaew (สองแถว). These covered pick-up trucks have two long bench seats in the back (songthaew means "two rows" in Thai, and travel fixed routes picking up passengers en route who are going the same way.

The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common by far are red songthaews (called rot daeng, red truck), which don't follow a specific route and roam the main streets around markets, temples, or the bus/train stations. These are the most convenient to take if you are going somewhere specific. Prices must be negotiated, but expect 20 baht anywhere within the city walls and 40-60 outside. Because of the city's somewhat irrational road design, especially inside the old walls, the driver may be forced to take a circuitous route to get to a nearby destination, but it will make no difference to the fare.

Fixed route songthaews congregate around Warorot Market. From Warorot Market, white songthaews travel to the eastern suburban city of Sankampaeng, yellow songthaews travel to Mae Rim and beyond in the north, blue songthaews travel to Sarapee and Lamphun in the south, and green songthaews travel to Mae Jo in the north-east. Fare is dependent on distance: a yellow songthaew to Samoeng (~50 km) is 60 baht.

From Pratu Chiang Mai market, songthaews also travel to Hang Dong (20 baht) and San Patong, southwest of Chiang Mai.

To catch a songthaew approach a waiting driver or flag one down on the street, state your destination and if the driver is going that direction he will nod in agreement and give you a price. Negotiate a lower fare if you wish. The price agreed to should be per person. It's a good idea to confirm this with the driver before you leave. On reaching your destination, ring the buzzer on the roof to tell the driver to stop. The driver will pull over, wait for you to get out and pay.

Songthaews not orbiting on a fixed-route can be hired outright, just as if they were a meter-taxi. Negotiate a price before departure.

By tuk-tuk or samlor

Tuk-tuks are a quick, though noisy way to get around. Fares are usually 30-40 baht for a short hop (as of July 2012 it seems that the minimum has gone up to 40 baht for pre-arranged locations) and 50-100 baht for longer distances, depending on the proficiency of your bargaining. As a guide, expect to pay 40 baht from the old city to the riverside and Night Bazaar, 40-50 baht to the railway station, and 80-100 baht to the bus station or airport. Tuk-tuks parked near the bus and train stations will ask you for something like 120-150 baht. Just haggle or walk away to the nearest road and stop a passing tuk-tuk or songthaew there.

According to expats, the highest fee for a tuk-tuk at any time of day or night should be 150 baht for any location in town.

The fee seems to be based on multiples of 20 baht which is the smallest note. It is a good idea to stock up on notes and coins as whenever you offer a note higher than the agreed fee the driver has no change!

A few samlor (three-wheeled bicycles) still cruise the streets and will happily take you to a temple for the same price as a tuk-tuk, though at a considerably quieter and slower pace.

By taxi

Chiang Mai has metered taxis, though it can be difficult to persuade the driver to switch the meter on. If you do prevail, the "flag fall" is 30 baht for the first 2 km, then 4 baht/km after that. Alternatively, you will have bargain to arrive at a mutually agreeable fare. You cannot generally hail taxis in the street. To book a taxi, call +66 53 279291, state your destination and the call centre will give you a quote. Or contact individual drivers on the mobile phone numbers displayed on their vehicles.

By motorbike or motorcycle

A motorbike is a convenient and cheap way to get around town or reach the outlying sights. There are an abundance of near indistinguishable rental outfits in town, though most guesthouses can arrange rentals as well. 100cc and 125cc machines with automatic transmissions capable of carrying two people are the easiest to jump on and ride away if you don't have driving experience. A "step-thru" model like the Honda Click is most convenient as it allows for easier carrying of baggage on the floorboard. Off-road bikes and larger street bikes are also an option. A valid international driver's license is not required. (Mostly, no license is required at all.)

Motorbikes run about 150 baht/day for a 100 cc motorbike and 150+ baht/day for a Honda Click 125 supplied with helmets and a anti-theft chain. Larger machines cost 700 baht/day for a V-twin or larger sport-bike. Expect discounts when renting for a week, month or longer.

Rentals will require a deposit, and while many ask for a passport, you should under no circumstances leave your passport with anyone as collateral. Most shops will accept a photocopy with a cash deposit of around 3,000-5,000 baht. This is a much better alternative. While the petrol/gas tank may be full on pickup, it is not uncommon for shops to deliver a bike with just enough fuel to go make it to a service station (and of course they will siphon the remainder off when you return it so the next person is forced to do the same). In any case, return the bike with as much or more fuel than received to avoid any penalties. Also check out the relative mechanical merit of the bike being offered. Focus especially on the brakes: the degree of "pull" needed for the brake levers and the travel required by the foot brake. Check that turn indicators and headlights work properly, and that the tyres are reasonably OK.

Some rental agreements claim to insure you, but generally only cover the bike for theft or damage. Don't expect much in the way of compensation if something bad such as an accident occurs. And despite who is at fault, assume that you will be the one considered at fault. Police occasionally fine riders (including passengers) 200 baht for not wearing a helmet, plus you have to go to the police station to collect your licence.

By bicycle

Traffic inside the old city walls is subdued enough to make biking a safe and quick way to get around. Bike rentals are plentiful; rental costs 30-250 baht/day depending on the bike quality.

By car

Car hire services are available both in the city centre and at the airport. Cars typically offered include the Toyota Vios, Altis, and Yaris, and the Honda City and Jazz. Typical rates for newer models are 1,200-2,000 baht per day. Expect a slight discount when renting weekly. Utility pickups such as the Ford Ranger are available for about 1,400 baht per day. Many places offer minivans such as 10-seat Toyota Commuters with a driver from about 2,000 baht per day plus fuel. Older Suzuki Carribean 4WDs are a cheaper option at around 600-800 baht per day, but they are relatively difficult to drive and less mechanically reliable than a standard passenger car.

Some car rental companies in Chiang Mai:

• Alpha Chiang Mai Car Rental, 18/2 Santitham Rd, Chang Phuak., ☎ +66 85 7144045.

• Avis, 60/27 Chaing Mai Airport, ☎ +66 53 2017989.

• Budget, 201/2 Mahidol Rd, Haiya Muang., ☎ +66 53 2028712.

• National Car Rental, Furama Chiang Mai Hotel, ☎ +66 53 210118, e-mail: chiangmai@nationalcarthailand.com.

• Sixt, 60 Sanambin Rd, Suthep District (Chiang Mai Airport).

• Thai Rent-a-Car, 60 Airport Rd, Suthep District. 1st Floor Domestic Arrival Hall (Exit 1). (Chiang Mai Airport), ☎ +66 53 904188.

On foot

The old city is only a mile square, and as such is easy to walk around. The airport is also quite close to the old part of town, about 2.5 km, so if you have the energy and an hour to spare, you can even walk to and from the airport. Note that this is not necessarily a pleasant experience as the sidewalks are uneven (or non-existent) and Chiang Mai gets hot during the day, especially during the hot season, and rainy during the rainy season. The cost of a taxi or songthaew from the moat area to the airport is around 150 baht.

Hiring a car or minivan with driver

This is a great option for travelling to places outside Chiang Mai city, and the price is often similar to hiring a car and driving yourself. You'll also be able to relax and enjoy the scenery in air-conditioned comfort. The cost for a private car with driver is generally from 1,500 baht per day plus fuel depending on the type of vehicle and where you are going. The driver will typically pick you up with a full tank of fuel and you pay at the end. Large Toyota Hi-Ace, Nissan Urvan and newer Toyota Commuter minivans go for around 2,000 baht per day plus fuel. Most hotels and some guesthouses can arrange it for you, in addition to vehicle rental outlets and the many travel agencies in town.

See

Elephants

• Baanchang Elephant Park, 147/1 Rachadamnoen Rd, ☎ +66 53 814174 or +66 89 6355206. Aside from being one of the cheapest places to appreciate these wonderful animals in Chiang Mai, Baanchang treats these animals extremely well and the love and care displayed by mahouts (elephant caretakers) contrasts markedly with that displayed at many other local elephant camps. For those who stay overnight, the hosts have a night by the campfire putting on rural entertainment such as making sticky rice in bamboo and releasing fire lanterns into the night sky. A true gem of Chiang Mai which can be accessed from many of the local hotels and hostels.

• Eddy Elephant Care Chiang Mai, 87 Sripoom Rd, ☎ +66 53 222525, e-mail: info@eddyelephantchiangmai.com. One of the interesting activities in Chiang Mai is getting close up to a real elephant. Eddy is the owner who has been taking care of his 7 orphaned elephants for years. You will learn about elephant behaviour and how to control and bathe them as you are a mahout (elephant caretaker). You are permitted to ride them through the jungle. The elephants are not inside a park, not inside a camp, neither on a farm. This is a group of elephant owners who care for them at home as if they were part of the family. 2,300 baht for a day including lunch and transportation.

• Elephant Nature Park, 1 Ratmakka Rd, ☎ +66 53 272855, e-mail: info@saveelephant.org. 07:30-21:30. Approximately 60 km north of Chiang Mai is this sanctuary for rescued and distressed elephants. They are not here to perform or do tricks and people visiting here will leave with a whole new understanding of these magnificent creatures. Day and overnight visits as well as one week volunteering opportunities can be booked via their website. During a day visit, which costs 2,500 baht per adult, you will feed and bathe the elephants, watch them wander around the 50 acre park, and will be provided with a buffet lunch. They will also pick and drop you off at your hotel in Chiang Mai. Day, 2,500 baht; Week, 12,000 baht.

• Friends for Asia Elephant Camp Volunteer Project, 63/3 Old Chang Moi Rd, Chang Moi, ☎ +66 53 232053, e-mail: info@volunteerthailand.org. After a two day orientation in the city of Chiang Mai, coordinating staff sends volunteers to the elephant camp, roughly a one hour drive from the city. Volunteers stay from Monday to Friday bathing, feeding, and taking care of, and learning about elephants. Lodging is in a tree house on the premises. Two week minimum. 36,671 baht for 2 weeks; 7,466 baht for each additional week.

• Mae Sa Elephant Camp, 119/9 Tapae Rd, ☎ +66 53 206247 or +66 53 206248. An elephant camp in the hills about an hour's drive north of the city centre. It has an elephant show, which includes elephants playing football and painting. You can also take half-hour or one hour elephant rides. Not exactly a place to bring a PETA activist, but many (people) do enjoy the performances.

• Patara Elephant Farm, 299/22 Siwalee Rachapreuk MaeHea (29 km southwest of downtown), ☎ +66 81 6710958 (English), +66 85 0768461 (Deutsch), fax: +66 53 286321, e-mail: pataraelephantfarm@hotmail.com. Basically you "adopt" an elephant for the day. You feed it, take it in the river to clean it, learn how to get on the elephant, talk to it and take a short ride. (bare back and barefoot) not with one of those bamboo seats. Then you actually get to go swimming with them by a waterfall. The owner is passionate about saving the elephants, about humane treatment and about anything to do with elephants. It's not the cheapest day out, but is highly recommended. 5,800 baht included transport and lunch.

Gardens and nature

• Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (about 800 m north of the Holiday Inn, on the east side of the Ping River). A place of history and remembrance.

• Chiang Mai Zoo & Aquarium, 100 Huay Kaew Rd (at the foot of Doi Suthep), ☎ +66 53 893111. Daily, 09:00-17:30. Extremely popular with Thai tourists, and so expect long queues. While better than some zoos, the animals are nevertheless kept in small enclosures. Operates a dual pricing system wherein non-Thais are charged approximately double the price of Thai nationals. Additional charges also apply for both the panda exhibition and the aquarium. There are more stalls selling trinkets than animal enclosures, and more human visitors than animals. Not much to recommend, including that the journey from the city centre can be lengthy because of long queues of cars, the dual pricing system, and the less-than-ideal conditions for the animals. The car park facilities are best described as chaotic. 100 baht.

• Dokmai Garden . This garden displays 120 different edible fruit plants, 140 different vegetables, 200 native orchid species, in total over 1000 vascular plants. Of these, 500 have been selected for presentations on aluminium signs with informative information (English, Japanese, and Thai). The plants have scientific names. The area is compact (4 ha or 10 acres) and surrounded by plantations of teak, bananas, longan, and dry dipterocarp savannah. It is near Opkhan National Park, and between the famous Doi Inthanon and Doi Suthep National Parks. The garden also hosts natural populations of the atlas moth and the golden birdwing butterfly, and is visited by over 80 wild and free bird species. The garden is a member of the SEABG (Southeast Asian Botanical Gardens network) and collaborates with Chiang Mai University (mushrooms), Mae Jo University (fish), Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden (plants), the Tourism Authority of Thailand, and Opkhan National Park.

• Mae Sa Waterfall (go 17 km north to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096 to Samoeng. Travel ~7 km to waterfall on left.), ☎ +66 53 210244. 08:30-16:30. Set in the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park on the "Samoeng Loop". The path winds up for almost 2 km to the 8 tiers of cascades. There are many secluded areas off the trail for picnics. Crowded on weekends and holidays. Foreigners, 100 baht; Thais, 20 baht.

• Phu Ping Palace (Royal Winter Palace), Suthep (on Rte 1004, beyond Doi Suthep). Daily, 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public. Dress code strictly applied: dress modestly or pay 15 baht for fisherman's pants to cover your lack of it. This includes ANY leg above the ankle for either gender). The palace itself (built in 1961) is not particularly exciting, but the extensive gardens are picturesque with some amazing plant life, including carefully tended tropical flowers, as well as centuries-old trees and giant bamboo. A sign at the bottom of the hill near the zoo indicates when it's closed. It is close to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, so travel directions are similar. 50 baht, children 10 baht.

• Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden, 100 Moo 9, Mae Ram (go 17 km north to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096 to Samoeng. Travel 12 km to garden on left.), ☎ +66 53 841234. Daily, 08:30-16:30. Thailand's oldest and foremost botanical garden. Dedicated to the conservation of Thai flora, it holds collections of, and carries out research on rare and endangered species. Lovely gardens in a mountain foothills setting. Run by the Botanical Garden Association of Thailand. Adult, 40 baht; child, 20 baht; car, 100 baht.

Muay Thai

After football, Thai boxing is the national sport of Thailand. It can be seen in three different stadiums:

• Kawila Boxing Stadium (not far from Nawarat Bridge, a short block south of Tha Phae Rd in the Night Bazaar). Real muay Thai fights (almost) every Friday at 20:00 with 10 bouts ranging from young novices to local champions to locals v. foreigners. The smallest of the three stadia it is nearly open-air, but with a new tent covering and good lighting. This is much more authentic than the frenzied beer bar atmosphere of the other two locations. 400-600 baht.

• Loi Kroh Boxing Stadium (Loi Kroh Rd in the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex.). Fights are usually held 3-4 nights per week. Look for flyers posted up all over the old city. They usually have about 8 fights and feature Thai fighters as well as a few matches with foreign fighters. This is not the best location to see muay Thai with a family, as it is surrounded by "girlie bars" and during a break between the fights a group of ladyboys will put on a dance and occasionally strip. After about 23:00 the complex is opened up for free, letting all the vendors (flower sellers, et al.) in. If you are on a tight budget you may be able to see a few of the remaining fights for free this way. Admission is 400 baht for normal seating or 600 baht for VIP..

• Tha Phae Boxing Stadium (Moon Muang Rd near Tha Phae Gate.). It hosts around 8 fights per show, including a few matches with foreign fighters. This is the largest of the three stadiums and has food as well as beverages served. Gambling is prominently featured.

Museums

There are many art galleries and exhibitions in Chiang Mai, featuring contemporary artwork of both local Thai and Burmese artists.

• Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre, in the very centre of the old city on Prapokklao Rd, between Ratchadamnoen Rd and Ratchawithi Rd, ☎ +66 53 217793. Tu-Su 08:30–17:00. This modern multimedia history and cultural education centre has guides dressed in elegant traditional Thai clothing who will usher you into an air-conditioned room to watch an English-subtitled orientation video about Chiang Mai and the north. Next, you will be pointed to a series of rooms documenting the region's history and culture in chronological order from the pre-Muang period (7,000-12,000 years ago) to the early river civilizations, to the early kings through the wars with the Burmese and the last dynasty, to the city today and its plans for the future. Other rooms are devoted to Buddhism and other regional beliefs, agricultural history, hill tribe peoples and other regional cultures, and a run-down of the royal dynasties. The exhibits consist of a smart visual mix of video, scale models, enlarged photos, wall murals and text in Thai and English. 90 baht.

• Chiang Mai National Museum, on the superhighway (within walking distance of Wat Chet Yot), ☎ +66 53 221308. W-Su 09:00–16:00. Offers insight into the history of Chiang Mai. 100 baht.

• Chiang Mai Numismatic Museum (Treasury Hall), 52 Ratchadamnoen Rd, ☎ +66 53 224237/8. M-Sa 09:00–15:30.

• Chiang Mai University Art Museum, corner Suthep and Nimmanhaemin Rd, ☎ +66 53 944833. Tu-Su 09:00–17:00. There are exhibitions by undergraduates from the Fine Arts Department at Chiang Mai University. These change often and the work on display is of high quality. Each month there is usually at least one art exhibition featuring the works of artists from Southeast Asia. The museum also hosts musical concerts, often free, in the adjoining theatre. Free.

• Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders, Soi 13, Srimankalajarn Rd, ☎ +66 53 211891. Daily, 09:00–17:00. One of Asia's most unusual museums housing butterflies, beetles, and beyond. Also has a large selection of minerals. Some explanations in English, some in Thai. 200 baht.

• Postal Museum, Mae Ping Post Office. Tu-Sa, 08:30–16:30. Free.

Temples

Inside the old city walls

• Wat Chedi Luang, Prapokklao Rd. Almost in the centre of Chiang Mai are the remains of a massive chedi that toppled in in the great earthquake of 1545. The temple was originally constructed in 1401 on the orders of King Saeng Muang Ma. In 1454, reigning King Tilo-Garaj enlarged the chedi (pronounced jedee) to a height of 86 m. After the earthquake, the chedi lay in ruins until 1991-92, when it was reconstructed at a cost of several million baht. A magnificent testament to Lanna (northern Thai) architecture and art, restored sections hint at its former glory. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to the "Pillar of the City", a totem used in ancient Thai fertility rites.

• Wat Chiang Man, Ratchaphakhinai Rd. The oldest royal temple in the city. Presumed to date from the year Chiang Mai was founded (1296), it is famed for two Buddha images, which according to legend are 1,800 and 2,500 years old. King Mengrai allegedly lived here while the city of Chiang Mai was being constructed. Enshrined in Wat Chiang Man is a tiny crystal Buddha called Pra Seh-Taang Kamaneeee, which is thought to have the power to bring rain. Another image, called Phra Sila Khoa, reflects the fine workmanship of Indian craftsmen from thousands of years ago.

• Wat Phra Chao Mengrai, Ratchamanka 6, Phra Sing (near Heuan Phen Restaurant), ☎ +66 53 278788 ‎. An atmospheric temple with two wihan buildings, off the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling. One of the wihan buildings houses an important Buddha image: Phra Buddha Rupa Phra Chao Mengrai.

• Wat Phra Jao Mengrai, Ratchamanka Rd (Near Heuan Phen). An atmospheric wooden temple away from the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling in the absence of tourist hordes.

• Wat Phra Singh, Corner of Singharaj Rd and Ratchadamnoen Rd. Probably Chiang Mai's best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image, completed between 1385 and 1400. Of most historical interest is the Wihan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar. The large chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well. These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monks and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from rain, floods, and pests. The walls of the chapel are covered with murals illustrating Lanna customs, dress, and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. Sadly, the head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen. Your admission ticket is in a leaflet form containing useful information and map of Wat Phra Singh complex. free for Thais, and 20 baht for foreigners.

Outside the old city walls

• Wat Jet Yod (วัดเจ็ดยอด. Sometimes called Wat Chet Yot) (about 1 km north of the Huay Kaew Rd/superhighway intersection). The history and unusual architecture scattered under the yawning canopy of ancient trees is an pleasant antidote to the flash and bustle encountered at popular temples. Established in 1455 to host the eighth World Buddhist Council, many features of the grounds imitate significant places of the Buddha's enlightenment. Originally called Botharam Maha Vihata in honour of the venerated Bodhi tree, it came to be known as Wat Jet Yod by locals, after the seven spires (Jet Yod) protruding from the roof of the Vihara. The square-sided design of the Virhra is a replica of Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya, India, though the translation has distorted proportions somewhat. Remnants of the graceful stucco relief murals that adorned the walls depict angels with a distinctly Indian flavour. The grounds also hold some more recently built, but abandoned looking, eroded chedis and buckling bases of vanished halls, overshadowed by a fully intact, though more diminutive, replica of Chedi Luang that was built around 1487 to house the ashes of King Tilokarat.

Courtyard of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

• The quintessential image of Chiang Mai with its large gold-plated chedi, visible from the city on a clear day, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep (วัดพระธาตุดอยสุเทพ, Huai Kaeo Rd, 30 baht, [17]) is 18 km from town, sitting at a 1,073 m elevation on the slopes of Doi (Mount) Suthep. Built in 1383 during the Lanna Thai period, legend has it that the temples site was selected by an elephant sent to roam the mountain side, where upon reaching a suitable spot, it trumpeted, circled three times, knelt down and promptly died, which was interpreted as a sign indicating an auspicious site. The temple offers grand views over the city, but no reward is without effort as you must accent the 300-plus steps of the Naga-lined stairs. The climb may be a strain in the high altitude's thin air for the less fit, so you may opt to take the cable car for 20 baht. For the Visaka Bucha holiday in Jun or Jul each year, it is traditional for people to walk from the zoo to the temple and vast numbers make the pilgrimage to the top, which takes around 4-5 hours.

Bells

In the vicinity there are several other attractions you may want to consider visiting. The Bhuping Royal Palace Gardens are 4 km further along the road from Wat Prathat, with a reasonably easy walk along the meter-wide road shoulder. Or you can get a shared songthaew from Wat Prathat for 30 baht, but you may have to wait until it fills up. Further along the road is a hill tribe village, and although tourist-oriented, is really worth the trip. There are many shops for local handicrafts, etc. These are the people from the far north of the country, many originally from Myanmar. There are two areas in the village that require entrance fee: 10 baht to enter a flower garden (where women can take pictures using traditional clothes) and a hill tribe opium museum (the museum is in a very poor condition); and 10 baht to enter the hill tribe waterfall (man-made).

Hilltribe market

Getting there is a source of much consternation to many travellers. Clearly marked songthaews leave from Pratu Chang Phuak. Prices are fixed at 40 baht up and 30 baht down; but the drivers wait until they have sufficient (up to 8) passengers before they depart, potentially making for a lengthy wait. Most guidebooks advise taking a songthaew from Mani Nopharat Rd, resulting in the drivers milking the tourist cash-cow and raising their price from a reasonable 40 baht to a ludicrous 500 baht.

Another option is to take a songthaew from your hotel to the northern gate of Chiang Mai University for 20 baht (if you are close to the city walls), where there will be several songthaews waiting on Huai Kaew Rd to get a full load of passengers for a trip up the mountain. They seem to congregate around the Chiang Mai Zoo, so if you just say "zoo" to the driver he will know what you're talking about. Prices range from 40 baht for a one-way trip to Wat Prathat to 180 baht for a full round-trip tour, including the temple, Bhuping Palace Gardens, and the the hill tribe village, with an hour at each location, but you may have to wait until there are sufficient people who want the same tour or be prepared to pay more. You can also get between many of these by buying point-to-point tickets at the time you want them, or walking some segment. Any songthaew up the mountain road may be a trial for those prone to motion-sickness, so take appropriate precautions.

There are several little annoying charges to pay for foreigners. To enter the Doi Suthep itself is free for Thais, and 30 baht for foreigners. Tour operators will ask 700 baht for a tour.

The journey from town can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if bicycling.

• Wat Suan Dok (Suthep Rd). A large open-sided hall with a jumble of roughly hewn Buddhas with a huge dazzlingly whitewashed chedi behind.

• Wat Umong, off Suthep Rd (at the end of a long narrow road, off Suthep Rd. Turn at the Italian restaurant.). An ancient temple in the forest just outside Chiang Mai. King Mengrai built this temple for a highly respected forest monk who liked to wander in the countryside, hence the isolated location where the monk could stay quietly and meditate. It is unusual in that it has tunnel-like chambers in the ground, some of the walls of which still have the original paintings of birds and animals visible. The large stupa is magnificent, and there is an eerie statue of a fasting, emaciated Buddha next to it. You can also take a break by the ponds, where you can feed the fish and turtles.

Do

Cinema

• Alliance Francaise, 138 Charoen Prathet Rd, ☎ +66 53 275277. W nights, 19:30. Screens French films, but frequently sub-titled in English. See the website for calendar of showings. The Alliance also has an extensive library as well as exhibitions.

• Chiang Mai Vista Cinema (Kad Suan Kaew)) (on Huay Kaew Rd). Ticket prices vary depending on the duration of the film. The place is not very popular among the locals since it is a bit old and worn. No digital or 3D films shown at Vista. 80-120 baht.

• Major Cineplex, Airport Plaza. Ticket prices around 120-260 baht depending on the duration of the film and seat type. Honeymoon seats generally cost 40 baht more than standard seats. If you would like to avoid the crowd, avoid going on Thursday, Friday, or Saturday nights. Make sure to check the language of the film prior to booking. Some children's movies are dubbed into Thai.

Festivals & exhibitions

• Bo Sang Umbrella & Sankampang Handicrafts Festival (8 km southeast of Chiang Mai). Takes place around the third weekend of Jan at Ban Bo Sang, Sankampang. The festival is in the form of a "street fair" in which the central road of the village is used, with shops on both sides. Shops are decorated in Lanna-style, most with the well-known umbrellas, as well as with traditional lanterns. In addition there are contests, exhibitions, cultural performances, local entertainment, and assorted shows day and night. There is a grand procession decorated with umbrellas and local products, a variety of handicrafts for sale, northern-style khantoke meals, and the Miss Bo Sang pageant.

• Chiang Mai Flower Festival. Staged every year during the first weekend in Feb. The city is awash with vibrant colours ranging from the electric orange and lilac colours of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white, and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Year, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North". On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Nong Buak Had Park near the city centre. Many types of flower, miniature trees, and orchida are put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers. The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Nawarat Bridge so the police close most of Charoen Muang Rd around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes up Tha Phae Rd to the gate and turns left and follows the moat to Nong Buak Had Park. The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hill tribe people in native costume. The paraders hand out roses to spectators lining the road. When the parade finishes everyone heads to Nong Buak Had where all the floats, award-winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen. This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.

• Inthakin or Tham Boon Khan Dok[18] is the City Pillar Festival in Chiang Mai. This is a six-day festival where the city pillar spirits are propitiated to ensure the continuity of the city. Occurs in May or Jun as part of the Northern Thailand lunar calendar. Very large event focused around Wat Chedi Luang.

• Loi Krathong and Yi Peng Festivals If you like candles placed in colourful paper lanterns, fireworks, beautiful girls in traditional dress, parade floats, lots of food, and parties, don't miss the Loi Krathong festival, which in Chiang Mai lasts for 3 full days, the last night being that of the 12th full moon of the year (which is usually in Nov). In the small town of Mae Jo, north of Chiang Mai, they start the festival on Saturday night by simultaneously launching thousands upon thousands of hot air balloons called khom loi.

Loi Krathong coincides with the northern Thai (Lanna) festival known as "Yi Peng" (ยี่เป็ง). Due to a difference between the old Lanna calendar and the Thai calendar, Yi Peng is held on a full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna calendar ("Yi" meaning "2nd" and "Peng" meaning "month" in the Lanna language). A multitude of Lanna-style sky lanterns (khom loi (โคมลอย), literally: "floating lanterns") are launched into the air where they drift with the winds. The festival is meant as a time for "tam-bun" (ทำบุญ), to make merit. People decorate their houses, gardens, and temples with khom fai (โคมไฟ): intricately shaped paper lanterns which take on different forms. Khom thue (โคมถือ) are lanterns which are carried around hanging from a stick, khom khwaen (โคมแขวน) are the hanging lanterns, and khom pariwat (โคมปริวรรต) which are placed at temples and which revolve due to the heat of the candle inside. Chiang Mai has the most elaborate Yi Peng celebrations, where both Loi Krathong and Yi Peng are celebrated at the same time resulting in lights floating on the waters, lights hanging from trees/buildings or standing on walls, and lights floating by in the sky.

Khom Loy hot air balloons launch

• Songkran Festival. The Thai Water Festival is celebrated as the Thai new year from 13-15 Apr (though it may begin a day or two early). The most obvious sign that you're in the middle of the festival is when you get soaked by someone pouring a bucket of water over you, or squirting you with a water gun! This tradition evolved from people tossing water that had been poured over holy statues, since this water was expected to be good luck. Now, it takes the form of a free-for-all water fight, and you will undoubtedly be drenched. It's also a way of staying cool during the very hot and humid month of Apr. Just be sure to put your cell phone in a plastic bag!

Massage

• Fah Lanna Massage, 186/3 Loi Kroh Rd (near the Night Bazaar, down the street from McDonald's, past Royal Lanna Hotel.), ☎ +66 89 6950802 or +66 82 0303029, e-mail: email@fahlanna.com. A small and very cosy massage shop close to the Iron Bridge. Clean, friendly, and professional, Fah Lanna gets consistently high ratings in customer reviews. First, customers get a gentle foot-bath with scrub and comfortable clothes to change into and after the massage they are offered ginger tea and a cold towel. The decor and the background music are beautiful and add to the experience. After collecting 10 stamps (1 stamp per 1 hour treatment) they give a free massage. Massages here are excellent and prices are very reasonable. 200+ baht.

• Green Bamboo Massage, 1 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 1, ☎ +66 89 8275563. A small and charming studio inside the moat with a fair and sustainable approach, located in a typical wooden Thai house. The certified staff is highly trained in the arts of ancient Thai massage therapy. The owner uses real homemade cosmetics and even created her own aloe vera oil. Choose from a great variety of treatments and packages for fair prices. 200+ baht/hour.

• Le'Lux Massage (near Sompet Market on Soi 6, Moon Muang Rd). Excellent staff and ambiance. Services include Thai massage (150 baht/hr), oil massage (200 baht/hr), scrubs, manicure (150 baht), pedicure (150 baht), and more. Tea and water are included.

• Let's Relax (2F Chiang Mai Pavilion and B1F Chiang Inn Plaza, Chang Khlan Rd). Does professional massage in a very clean, if not downright sterile, surroundings complete with air-con, the sound of running water and gentle scents. A 45-minute foot reflexology session costs 350 baht, nearly twice the price of the competition, but is worth every satang after a long trek.

• Nantana Massage (near Sompet Market on Soi 6). Very knowledgeable and friendly staff. Air-con. Oil, foot, and neck/shoulder massage available. Thai massage, 150 baht/hour.

• Sun Massage, Loi Kroh Rd, opposite 7-11. Very clean and pleasant modern décor. The masseuses are very friendly, and provide decent, skilled massages. There is a table in front of the shop where the masseuses often hang out when idle. Traditional Thai massage, 199 baht/hour..

• Viang Ping Massage & Spa, Tha Phae Rd, Soi 2 (opposite Wat Bupparam.), ☎ +66 53 874071. Very clean and well-run business, professionally run by Fern, manager-proprietor. All massages based on the Lanna, northern Thai-style, using pressure points and energy lines. Homemade coconut oil and natural facial, body scrub, and wrap products. Fern also teaches massage and spa services to individuals or occasionally to small groups. Prices average 200 baht for Thai, foot, or head and shoulder massages. 250 baht for oil massages. Loyalty cards for regular customers, free massage after 10 visits.

Motorcycling

• Motorcycle touring is a great way to explore Northern Thailand. One good day trip out of Chiang Mai is up and over Doi Suthep, which will take you up to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and beyond the mountain to the reservoir. A perennial favourite among bicyclists and motorcyclists alike is the Samoeng Loop, a 100 km circuit into the mountains and back to Chiang Mai.

• Motor-scooter touring as far as Mae Hong Son and suitable for the less experienced motorcyclist.

Rafting

Raft trips down the Mae Tang River are offered by organised by several companies and can often be combined with elephant riding or mountain biking. During the dry season (Jan-Feb) water levels are relatively low with only grade 2-3 rapids, but during the rainy season (Jun-Oct) higher water levels make for a more exciting grade 4-5 trip.

• Peak Adventure Tour, 302/4 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, ☎ +66 53 800567. Offers 10 km rafting trips that can be combined with elephant riding or ATV driving.

River cruise

• Mae Ping River Cruise, 133 Charoen Pratet Rd (Wat Chaimongkol boat landing, between Hotel Chedi and Ping Nakara), ☎ +66 53 274822, fax: +66 53 818627, e-mail: maepingrivercruise@hotmail.com. 08:30-17:00. Two hour cruise with a refreshment stop at a Thai farmer's house. Hotel pick-up. 450 baht.

Sports

• Aerobics . Aerobics sessions are held in the car park of Tesco Lotus on the superhighway every weekday from 17:30. The sessions are very popular and tourists or visitors to Chiang Mai are welcomed. Regular water aerobics classes, incorporating Tai Chi and yoga exercises, are held at the Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool.

• Cricket . The north of Thailand may seem an odd place to find an international cricket tournament. Every year since 1988 more than 200 cricketers from around the world gather at Chiang Mai for the tournament. The week-long tournament for amateur players, with a sprinkling of test stars, it is held at the historic Chiang Mai Gymkhana Club, generally at the start of April.

• Extreme Sports Centre (X Centre), 816 Moo 1, Rim Thai, Mae Rim (go 17 km north to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096, direction Samoeng. Travel 3 km. X Centre on the left), ☎ +66 53 297700. Daily, 09:00-18:00. Kiwi-run business, totally buttoned-down and professional. Bungy jumping; off-road buggies; dirt bikes; paintball; indoor drift carts; Xorb ball; sports bar and restaurant. Transport available from Chiang Mai at 09:30, 13:00, 15:00.

• Football (soccer) . Go watch the local football team, Chiang Mai FC, play at 700 Year Stadium. Fixtures and info in English or visit the Red Lion English Pub near the Night Bazaar two hours before the game to get a free ride (nearly always available).

• Mountain Biking . Just west of Chiang Mai lies the beautiful Doi Suthep National Park, its summit at 1,650 m, 1,300 m above the valley floor. Chiang Mai Mountain Biking runs daily downhill trips and nature cross country rides.

• Rock Climbing . Approximately 55 km east of Chiang Mai is Crazy Horse Buttress, a 60 m, orange- and black-streaked monolith jutting out of the green Mae On Valley. Crazy Horse boasts more than 130 bolted routes between (French system) grades 5 and 8a, which makes it an ideal destination for beginners and experienced climbers alike. Spend several days exploring every part of the crag, or just spend a day or an afternoon above ground as a break from exploring the magnificent caves of the region. Climbing guides and information are available from Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures.

• Tennis There are many places to play tennis in Chiang Mai: Gymkhana Club, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd [19]; Chiang Mai Land Village, Chiang Mai Land Rd; Imperial Chiang Mai Resort & Sports Club, 284 Moo 3, Don Kaew, Mae Rim [20]; Lanna Sports Club, Chotana Rd; Palm Springs, 120 Moo 5, Mahidol Rd; and Chiang Mai Sports Complex (700 Year Stadium, Irrigation Canal Rd (Rte 121 to Mae Rim), which has 12 courts. All courts are bookable in advance and at most flood lighting makes it possible to play in the evening when it is cooler. There is an additional charge to cover the cost of electricity.

• Yoga. The diversity of yoga studios in Chiang Mai rounds out the image of Chiang Mai as a centre for massage training, healing, and spas. Yoga studios such as Wild Rose Yoga [21] in the old city, Sattva Yoga north of the city [22], Kaomai Lanna [23], and the Spa Resort [24] for residential yoga retreats all are worthy of your patronage.

Swim

Chiang Mai swimming pools open to the public vary in quality, cleanliness, and accessibility. On balance, those pools which are operated to internationally recognised standards of water quality are those which are privately owned by foreign investors.

• Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool and Resort (take Huay Kaew Rd (Rte 1004) from the city towards Doi Suthep. At the intersection of Rte 1004 and Rte 121, follow the signs to Mae Rim. From the intersection, travel 1.2 km towards Mae Rim and turn left at the 5th bridge over the canal. Go straight for 600 m to the end of the road following signs for). Open to tourists and other visitors. There are 3 swimming pools and decks. A detailed map and directions in Thai and English can be printed from their website. The pool is sanitised using salt water.

• Hotel Pools. Some up-market hotels such as The Orchid and the Amari Rincome Hotel on Huay Kaew Rd allow non-guests to use their pools for a fee. Travelling time from the city centre is around 10 min. These are sanitised using chlorine.

• Chiang Mai Land Swimming Pool (in). Open to the public. It has a pool deck and also has a restaurant and pool-side service. The pool is sanitised using chlorine. Adults, 50 baht; children, 30 baht.

• The Lake at Huay Tung Tao (further along the Irrigation Canal Rd than the Centre of the Universe and after the 700-Year Sports Stadium, as you head towards Mae Rim (Rte 121), about 12 km from the city centre. Takes 15-20 minutes by tuk-tuk/taxi.). A reservoir in surrounding woodlands. Admission, 20 baht..

• Seven Hundred Year Stadium (on the outer ring road, Irrigation Canal Rd—Route 121, towards Mae Rim. It is about 8 km from city centre; about fifteen min by tuk-tuk/taxi.). A huge sports complex built for the SE Asia Games, held in Chiang Mai in the early 1990s, and now a public sports and recreation centre. The pool is sanitised using chlorine.

• Waterfalls and Natural Pools (at the foot of Doi Suthep on Huay Kaew Rd. Look for a large Buddhist shrine on your left after travelling past the the entrance to Chiang Mai Zoo. Turn left into the market at the back of the shrine, and keep walking up the hill. You will come to the waterfalls after about 5 minutes. About 7 km from the city centre; takes 10-15 min by tuk-tuk/taxi.). The pools at the bottom of the waterfalls are not really big enough for swimming, but are a great place to cool off at the height of summer. During the dry season some of the waterfalls dry up. Head for the high ground and you will still find pools full of fresh water! There are usually quite a few students hanging out there from the nearby university, who will happily practice their English conversational skills with you. Free.

Theatre

• The Playhouse Complex (on Changpueak Rd). The Playhouse Theatre is Chiang Mai’s newest & trendiest attraction. Start your evening with a unique dining experience in Kinnaree Park. Set in an eco-friendly environment, surrounded by mountains and waterfalls offering a real Lanna experience with traditional dance and a delicious northern Thai buffet before entering the theatre adjacent to the restaurant. The 350-seat capacity theatre hosts two shows per day at 20:00 and 22:00. Presenting Sequins & Dance, a fun and happy performance of wholesome entertainment that's full of sparkle, movement, and emotion. Performed by 30 Thai performers, it is exciting. Family, individual, or group bookings welcome. Adult, 1,000 baht; child, 500 baht. Including Thai buffet (Saturdays): adult, 1,300 baht; child, 650 baht..

Learn

Buddhism

• Wat Chom Tong, Ban Luang, Chom Tong (about 60 km southwest of the city), ☎ +66 53 826869/+66 53 826180. The home temple of the meditation master, Achan Tong. Offers residential courses in Vipassana meditation on an on-going basis.

• Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep . The International Buddhist Centre offers short and long residential courses in Vipassana meditation in English. A brand new centre, including accommodation and a vitara (chanting hall), is now open.

• Wat Ram Poeng, Suthep Rd (4 km southwest of the city), ☎ +66 53 278620,. Facilities for retreats and meditation instruction. Ten-day minimum stay required for introduction to Vipassana meditation techniques. English-speaking monks are available to assist foreigners. For non-native English speakers, long-term students from your home country may be available to offer translation services.

• Wat Suan Dok, Suthep Rd (1 km west of the Old City Moat), ☎ +66 53 278967. Has a meet-and-greet for tourists and monks, every M W F afternoon between 17:00 and 19:00. Also, you can sign up for a 24-hr introductory meditation retreat (they are offered on Tuesdays).

• Wat Umong, Suthep Rd (~3.5 km west of Chiang Mai. Easiest way is by tuk-tuk or bicycle. Or, take a city bus #1 or songthaew west 2.5 km on Suthep Rd (not the same road to Doi Suthep Temple) to Wang Nam Kan, then follow signs south 1 km to the wat), ☎ +66 53 277248, call only during open hours. 08:30-16:00. Offers meditation courses and dharma instruction in English by Phra Charles every Sunday at 15:00.

Shamanism

• Life Events Shamanic Studies (behind Kad Suan Kaew shopping center.), ☎ +66 53 894708. Provides spiritual consultations, shamanistic initiation workshops and meditation retreats in English and Russian. An initial one-on-one consultation with Diana Manilova is required before attending any other event.

Tai Chi and Qi Gong

• Green Dragon Tai Chi Center and Personal Training, 459/4 Nong Hoi (behind the Nong Hoi Market, two minutes from the Holiday Inn Riverside), ☎ +66 85 6245776, e-mail: green.dragon.taichi@gmail.com. Offers customized weekend courses for health and relaxation, especially for beginners, in Tai Chi, Qi Gong, the 18 Movements, the 8 brocates/Shaolin style, 24 Yang Form, 108 Yang Form old frame, Inner Qi Gong after grandmaster Zhi-Chang-Li and standing meditation after Grand Master Frankie Dow (Chan Kwaan Chung).

TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language)

• SEE TEFL 4 week TEFL certification course, 86/2 Kaewnawarat Rd (about three blocks from the Ping River), ☎ +66 53 266295, e-mail: info@seetefl.com. SEE TEFL offers a standard 4 week, 120 hour TEFL Certification course. TEFL certification is required for many English teaching positions in Thailand and throughout the world. 45,000 baht.

Thai boxing (muay Thai)

• Team Quest Thailand, 114/3 Moo.1, Phadeed (ป่าแดด) Rd (A 5 minute walk from Central Airport Plaza or a short drive from the airport), ☎ +66 86 0911536, e-mail: teamquestthailand@gmail.com. A gym for muay Thai and mixed martial arts. Train with top trainers from the biggest stadia in the country, including current Thailand champion, Hong Thong Lek.

Thai cooking

• Air's Thai Culinary Kitchen, 9/1 Nongprateep Rd, ☎ +66 53 249326; +66 81 9936564. On 1.6 acres of the tranquil, landscaped grounds of a private house. The kitchen's unique design draws from professional experience and is purpose-built and surrounded by herb and spice gardens. Offers Course A and Course B. Each is 3 days in length, 08:30-15:00. Free transport to/from hotel. 2,700 baht.

• Baan Thai Cookery School, 11 Ratchadamnoen Rd, Soi 5 (near Tha Phae Gate), ☎ +66 53 357339; +66 16 714120. Courses include a cookbook and market tour. Day or evening classes. 700-900 baht.

• Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, 1-3 Moon Muang Rd, ☎ +66 53 206388, fax: +66 53 206387. Offers 1-2-3-4-5-day courses. 990 baht for 1 day course..

• Classic Home Cooking , ☎ +66 53 219056. Choose any dish from more than 50 dishes on their menu. 6 dishes per day for morning class and 4 dishes for evening class. The cooking class runs every day.

• Gap's School Of Thai Culinary Art, 3 Ratchadamnoen Rd, Soi 4, ☎ +66 53 270143. High standards, well organised, your own stove, 1 teacher per 5 students.

• Grandma's Thai Recipes, 48 Chaiyapoom Rd (15 minutes out of town, transportation provided), ☎ +66 53 121656. Traditional Thai cooking instruction. Vegetarian-friendly. Restaurant and booking office located near Tha Phae Gate.

• A Lot Of Thai Cooking School , ☎ +66 53 800724. A family-run home cooking class, taught by the owner. Vegetarians and people with any kind of food restrictions welcome. Courses includes a market tour and a recipe book is provided for later use.

• Siam Rice Thai Cookery School , ☎ +66 53 329091. Friendly and knowledgeable staff provide a course on local and traditional recipes. The course includes a market tour and provides you with the recipes for the dishes that you create.

• Smart Cook Thai Cookery School, 21 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 5, ☎ +66 53 418309. Market tour, cook book. Accommodates vegetarian cooking. Small classes and fun staff.

• Sompet Cookery School, 56 Patan Rd,, ☎ +66 53 214897. Learn to cook traditional Thai food at a riverside home. Daily courses, morning and afternoon. A recipe book with colour photographs provided for each dish, suggesting many ways to prepare and serve Thai food.

• Thai Cottage Cookery School, 25/2 Ratchadamnoen Rd, Soi 1, ☎ +66 53 326608. Participants learn 5 dishes in a full day, including making curry paste from scratch, 800 baht. 3-course half-day courses are available, 600 baht. Market tour and cook book included. Modifications for vegetarians are easily made. Tu and Kat are excellent teachers and a lot of fun. 600-800 baht.

Thai language

• AUA, 73 Ratchadamnoen Rd (c. 100 m inside Tha Phae Gate), ☎ +66 53 278407, +66 53 277951, fax: +66 53 211973, e-mail: cm-thai@auathailand.org. M-F 08:30-18:00; Sa 09:00-11:30, 12:30-16:00; Su 08:30-12:00. AUA offers seven different 6- and 8-week courses M-F. Group courses start monthly with a minimum of 5 students. Individual instruction any time. Great library for student use, 100 baht per term. Caveats: they use the Haas transliteration system, not everyone's cup of tea. And they also have dumb rules, such as no short pants in tropical heat! 4,800 baht per course.

• Centre for Thai Studies, Chiang Mai University Language Institute, 239 Huay Kaew Rd, ☎ +66 53 943755. 1-year courses and short conversational programs. Website has on-line application form and FAQ.

• How to Learn Thai, 41 เจริญสุข, ต. ช้างเผือก อ. เมือง, เชียงใหม่m, ☎ +66 81 4418061, e-mail: howtolearnthai@howtolearnthai.co. Individual tutoring and 1-4 student custom-tailored Thai language courses.

• Payap University (superhighway Chiang Mai -Lumpang Rd), ☎ +66 53 241255 x7238. Run by the Southeast Asian Institute of Global Studies, the Thai and Southeast Asian Studies Program at Payap University is a one- or two-semester academic program for students primarily interested in becoming proficient in the Thai language and knowledgeable about Thai culture.

• Study Thai Chiang Mai, 86/2 Kaewnawarat Rd, ☎ +66 53 266295/6. 60 hrs for 18,000 baht.

• YMCA, 11 Mengrairasmi, Sermsuk Rd, ☎ +66 53 221819,+66 53 221820. 1,800+ baht for 30 hrs instruction.

Thai massage

• Green Bamboo Massage, 1/1 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 1, ☎ +66 89 8275563. Offers individual daily or weekly courses in traditional Thai massage, Thai yoga massage, Tok Sen massage, and Thai oil massage. Seminars are run by Ms Mesa, a certified and experienced expert in these arts.

• Thai Massage School of Chiang Mai (TMC) . A government-registered school of Thai massage.

• Viang Ping Massage & Spa, 2/4 Tha Phae Rd, Soi 2 (opposite Wat Bupparam), ☎ +66 53 874071. Thai and oil massage courses, also spa courses. All courses run by Fern are individual or occasionally small groups of friends.

Buy

Chiang Mai is a great place to shop. Sprawling markets during the day and night carry items from cheap trinkets to skilfully made local crafts. ATMs can be found easily, but all charge 150 baht to foreigners, except for Aeon. Their most convenient ATMs can be found at Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport on the 3rd floor and at Tesco Lotus north of old town at the superhighway, ground floor.

Books

• D.K. Book Centre (Duangkamol), 79/1 Kotchasarn Rd (just past the turn to Loi Kroh Rd in a shopping centre on the left), ☎ +66 53 208995. M-F, 10:30-20:00; Sa-Su, 09:00-20:00. Not a great place to buy Western language titles, but particularly strong in educational books and learning resources of every description. Most of the office supplies such as pens are crappy and restocking leaves much to be desired.

Clothing

• Nok 'Em Ded Designs, 162/5 Prapokklao Rd, Prasingh (from Tha Phae Gate, go straight on Rachadamnern Rd, turn left at 2nd intersection. Shop is on left, opposite Wat Puntao & Wat Chedi Luang.), ☎ +66 53 280960, +66 87 0344067, e-mail: info@nokemded.com. M 12:00-20:00, Tu-Sa 10:00-20:00, Su 10:00-23:00. Unique styles from simple to extravagant. English-speaking owners & staff. Jewellery is handmade by the artist owners. Great quality tee shirt collection too from 50 baht.

• Palmy Shoes, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 5, ☎ +66 81 4720607, e-mail: palmyshoe@gmail.com. Handmade leather shoes and accessories. The owners speak English and all shoes are made locally by local manufacturers. 1,000-2,500 baht.

Housewares and workshops

Along Rte 1006 (Charoen Muang Rd) just past the superhighway (Rte 11) are various factories offering factory tours. Silverware, silk, furniture, and brass items generally priced with the cashed-up tourist in mind, but the tours might be worth a look to see how things are made. They are generally open during typical daytime hours.

• Mengrai Kilns, 79/2 Arak Rd, Samlan 6, ☎ +66 53 272063, e-mail: info@mengraikilns.com. Celadon green-glazed ceramics. Sift through their pile of rejects in the covered area to the right of store and find something interesting for 20 baht. 20-500 baht.

Malls

• Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport (เซ็นทรัล แอร์พอร์ต พลาซ่า), corner Thipanet Rd and Mahidon Rd. About a kilometre from the airport. It has several floors, with a food court, banks/ATMs, and multi-screen cinema. It also has a Cultural Centre attached selling many crafts, a large food market and an extensive selection of Thai ready-to-eat stalls in the basement.

• Kad Suan Keaw, corner Huay Kaew Rd and Bunreuangrit Rd. Has many decent shops, restaurants, and banks/ATMs.

Markets

• Night Bazaar, Chang Klan Rd (between Tha Phae Rd and Sri Donchai Rd. To get there, walk out from Tha Phae Gate in the old city and walk for 3/4 of a kilometre until you see a street to your right with tons of little stalls, take that right and then it all starts.). 18:00-24:00. A huge indoor/outdoor market stretching along both sides of the road with the Night Bazaar Building at the centre of the maelstrom. It can take a concerted effort to find something interesting among the near identical stalls selling tourist-oriented trinkets, T-shirts, and pirated gear. You rarely will see Thai people shopping here.

• Saturday Walking Market, Wualai Rd. Sa 17:00-23:00. In the old silver-working district, it's a smaller version of the Sunday market with most of the same vendors.

• Sunday Walking Market, Ratchadamnoen Rd (from the inner-east side of Tha Phae Gate). Su 16:00-23:00. The street is blocked off to traffic for local craft vendors to layout their handmade wares.

• Warorot Market (กาดหลวง / Kad Luang), Tha Phae Rd and Chang Moi Rd. 07:00-17:00. This sprawling indoor/outdoor market is where the locals shop and is worth a visit to look over the plethora of fabrics, spices, tea, and dried fruit piled up along the aisles. Across the road is a flower and fruit market and an out-of-this-world fireworks stand. At night the street is packed with snack stalls.

Night market

Eat

A bowl of Chiang Mai's signature dish, Khao Soi Kai, with pickled cabbage and lime to add to taste

Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth, traditionally served with chicken (kai) or beef (neua), but available some places as vegetarian or with seafood. Another local specialty is hang ley, Lanna-style pork curry. For those tired of eating rice or noodles there's also a wide range of excellent international food restaurants, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate Italian eateries.

When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a khantoke dinner and show. Although these are just for tourists it is still a nice way to spend an evening. The first khantoke dinner was held in 1953 by Professor Kraisi Nimanhemin who wanted to host a special event for 2 friends leaving Chiang Mai. Two more such dinners were held, both in 1953, thus "khantoke" dinners are not "historic", but rather a relatively recent invention. Khantoke literally means small bowl, low table (khan = small bowl. tok = low table) There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.

The range and value of Western food in Chiang Mai is unsurpassed in Northern Thailand and there is a full range of restaurants from Australian/British/Irish, through French and German to Italian, Spanish, American, and Mexican. In fact considering how remote Chiang Mai is from the major centres of population in Asia, it is remarkable how many Western restaurants there are. This is one city where eating Thai is not the only option.

Thai

Markets & roadside stalls

• Anusarn Market, Chang Klan Rd (side of road opposite Night Bazaar). A busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai, Indian, and Western restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere.

• Kalare Food Centre, Chang Klan Rd (opposite the Night Bazaar Building). 17:00-22:00. Has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with pre-purchased coupons. mains 20-50 baht.

• Suthep Road Moveable Feast (Past Canal Rd, by the university). Daily, 17:00-22:00. Dozens of food carts set up every evening around from around 17:00 until about 22:00, with a huge variety of very inexpensive food, and tables set up along the sidewalk.

Budget

• Funkydog Cafe, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 6. Local handmade coffee from a local hill tribe. Fantastic Thai family cooking. All fresh and made by hand, great atmosphere and music, low-cost food. Genuine owner who will keep you informed of all the natural products you should eat. The yellow curry is recommended.

• Guaytiaw Reua Koliang, Moon Muang Rd (near Ratchamanka Rd; English sign on sidewalk). Serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). It's good stuff. 25 baht.

• Kanjana Restaurant, 2 Ratpakinai Rd 2 (lat=). Delicious food at really low prices. Friendly staff.

• Muan Baan, Moon Muang, Soi 7. A variety of Thai meals, for breakfast and lunch. The food is excellent and the owners and staff are very pleasant and helpful.

• Ratana’s Kitchen, Tha Phae Rd. Popular for its wide range of Thai dishes and a huge vegetarian selection. Both smoking (inside, air-conditioned) and non-smoking areas. Visa/MasterCard accepted. 30-60 baht.

• Re-Feel Café, 48/4-5 Rachawithi Rd. Great Thai food, good atmosphere, friendly staff and free billiards.

• Sailomjoy Restaurant, 7 Rachadamnern Rd (near Tha Phae Gate). Daily, 07:30-16:00.. Delicious food (Thai, Western and vegetarian), friendly service, and simple and relaxed atmosphere.

Mid-range

• Ghekko Garden Bar and Restaurant (opposite the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel). Highlights are lemon grass beef and sun-dried beef. Their chilli crab is also worth a try. See the bar blackboard for daily specials.

• Huen Phen, 112 Ratchamanka Rd (inside the moat). Daily, 08:00-15:00 & 17:00-22:00. Specialises in Northern Thai food, and is popular with Thais and foreigners alike. Lunch in the air-conditioned hall is decent enough, but dinner in the profusely decorated old house in the back is little short of magical. Best of all is the price: a bowl of Khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will cost less than 100 baht!

• Ob Luang. Daily, 10:00-14:00 and 17:00-24:00.. Serves genuine Thai-Chinese cuisine in a secluded garden setting on the Ping River.

• Sila Aat (on the south edge of the Kalare Market). Daily, 15:00-24:00. Fresh seafood and a wide selection of Thai and northern/Lanna specialties. Operated by two sisters.

Splurge

• Galae Garden Restaurant (at the end of Suthep Rd), ☎ +66 53 278655. Thai & northern Thai food and grilled specialties in a delightful outdoor setting.

• Khum Khantoke, 139 Moo 4, Nong Pakrung (in Chiang Mai Business Park behind Big C Extra Hypermarket, Chiang Mai-Lampang super highway), ☎ +66 53 304121. Daily, 19:00-21:00. Traditional northern Thai cuisine. Reservations are a good idea to get a good seat. All you can eat, 590 baht.

• Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre, 185/3 Wualai Rd, ☎ +66 53 275097. Daily, 19:00-21:30. The first commercial khantoke dinner in Chiang Mai more than 30 years ago. They have the best northern Thai food of any of the khantoke establishments. However the seating, show, and music are not as good as others.

Western

Budget

• Mike's Hamburger Stand, corner Chaiyapoom Rd and Changmoi Rd. Second shop in the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex, Loi Kroh Rd.. till 03:00. Brightly-lit with just stools and a counter in an open shop.

Mid-range

• Amazing Sandwich, 20/2 Huay Kaew Rd. M-Sa, 08:00-22:00, Su, 08:00-16:00. Choose any of the ingredients on their list and they'll build a sandwich for you exactly how you like it. They also serve breakfasts and have bagels.

• Archers Bar and Restaurant, 133/134 Ratchapakanai Rd (inside moat, a block east of the Three Kings Monument), ☎ +66 83 6377621. Closed Mondays. Tu-Su, 10:00-late; kitchen closes at 22:00. Some say the baguettes are better than in France, which is nonsense, but they may well be the best in Thailand. Very well-run establishment, with outstanding food, great staff and ambience. Owners, Mark and Sa. Large Leo, 85 baht; fried rice, 60 baht; Massaman curry, 75 baht; pad Thai, 60 baht; cappuccino, 45 baht; brie/bacon baguette, 100 baht.

• Cafe de Siam (outside moat, corner of Loi Kroh and Kamphaeng Rd), ☎ +66 53 207258. 06:30-22:00. It's hard to find an early-morning breakfast in Chiang Mai due to the number of tourists on hotel package deals. This place serves one up. Free Wi-Fi. Three coin-operated Internet computers, 10 baht for 15 minutes. Continental breakfast, 100 baht; American breakfast, 160 baht.

• Chiangmai Saloon, 30 Ratchawithi Rd, ☎ +66 81 9302212. American-style burger and southwestern steakhouse. Friendly staff, nice atmosphere, music videos, and sports on three 10 foot screens, pool tables and free Internet, free popcorn and peanuts, over 50 kinds of margaritas, Chang beer on tap. Kitchen open from breakfast until late, everyday. Another outlet at 80/1 Loi Kroh Rd. Leo beer, 55 baht per bottle.

• Duke's Steak House & Pizzeria (Duke's Night Bazaar), Chiang Mai Pavilion, 1st and 2nd Floor, Chang Klan Rd (outside moat, opposite Royal Princess Hotel), ☎ +66 53 818603. 10:30-24:00. Excellent American-style dishes and desserts: ribs, burgers, pizza, cheesecake, etc. Full bar with local and imported beers and wines. Great family atmosphere, kid's menu, no loud music or entertainment, just good food. Eat in, take out, call for delivery. Another location at 49/4-5 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, south of the Nawarat Bridge; 50 m north of TAT.

• El Toro Restaurant & Pub, 5/2 Loi Kroh Rd. New Mexico-style Mexican food prepared by experienced cook. Free food 17:00-19:00 every Friday.

• La Fourchette, 162/2 Phrapoklao Rd (inside moat, across from Wat Chedi Luang), ☎ +66 89 7585604. M-Sa 18:00-23:00. Authentic French restaurant in the centre of the old city. Large selection of imported meats and wines at affordable prices. Romantic open-air seating area with upstairs art gallery.

• Harrad's Cafe (Proper English Food & Thai Specials), Nantharam Rd (outside moat, next to Saturday Walking Street and Chiang Mai Gate), ☎ +66 89 7005697. 10:00-21:00. This place serves some of the best khao soi and English pies. Not your typical roadside Thai restaurant, Harrad's not only has some of the best English and Thai food in Chiang Mai but is more affordable than other places. The staff give you free water and make you feel comfortable. It's a great break from the Saturday Walking Street Market and is also right across the street from Chiang Mai Gate. mains 40-50 baht.

• Mong Pearl Cafe, Huay Kaew Rd (from the old city: 300 m after the ring road (Hwy 121), on your right), e-mail: mongpearlcoffee@yahoo.com. 08:00-20:00. A favourite with Westerners because of the great service, good English, nice aesthetics and delicious food and drinks.

• O'Malley's Irish Pub, 149-14/15 Chang Klan Rd (southwest corner of Anusarn Market), ☎ +66 53 271921. 09:00-02:00. Delicious cocktails and shockingly good Western and Thai food. Has inside (air conditioned) and outside (smoking) seating. The interior closely resembles an authentic pub. This place does all the small things well: Tabasco, Lea & Perrins on the tables, soap and towels in the loo, spotlessly clean. Not cheap, but the food is superb and the portions generous. Free Wi-Fi.

• Peppermint Cafe, Rachadamnoen Rd, Soi 5 (very near AUA and Wat Pan On), ☎ +66 53 279735. 07:00-late. Spotlessly clean and excellent Western/Thai food at great prices. Friendly, accommodating staff. Free Wi-Fi. English breakfast, 145 baht; burger, 99 baht.

• Pern (Previously called SoupaSteak), 26/5-6 Huay Keaw Rd (opposite Shell gas station on the way to Doi Suthep), ☎ +66 86 1117766. Budget pork and chicken steaks.

• Salad Concept, Nimmanhaemin Rd Soi 13, ☎ +66 53 894455. 11:00-22:00. Here's how this place works: you take a seat. At your table you will find a menu, pencils, and three short pre-printed forms. One for beverages, one for regular salads, one for special salads. You consult the menu, make your choices on the forms, and hand them to the server. Fast, efficient, and the food is very good. ~150 baht per person.

Splurge

• Alois Bavarian Restaurant, Phrapoklao Rd, Soi 8 (opposite Golden Fern Guest House), ☎ +66 53 278515. Tu-Su, 11:30-23:00, closed M. Authentic Bavarian specialities.

• Arcobaleno Italian Restaurant, 60 Keaw Nawarat Rd, Soi 1 (in front of Watket Temple; first soi off of Keaw Nawarat Rd), ☎ +66 53 306254. Daily, 11:00-14:00, 17:30-22:00. Open for lunch & dinner with a range of traditional Italian soup, pasta, antipasti, meat, and vegetarian dishes. Homemade ice cream is served at 35 baht per serving. Vegetarian pastas are priced at 130-160 baht.

• The House (GINGER & Kafe), 199 Moon Muang Rd, ☎ +66 53 419011. 10:00-23:00. Old 1930s colonial style house in town centre. Western and Thai food, Pacific Rim and fusion. Free Wi-Fi. Grilled fillet steak, 495 baht; hamburger, 250 baht.

• Piccola Roma Palace Italian Restaurant, 144 Charoen Prathet Rd (opposite the Chedi Hotel, corner of Charoen Prathet Rd & Sri Donchai Rd), ☎ +66 53 820297-8. Open lunch & dinner amid beautiful surroundings. Serving residents for over 15 years. Menu and recipes on website. Reservations recommended. Call for free transportation.

Japanese

• Fuji, Central Airport Plaza. While perhaps not a special restaurant in that it is not unique to Chiang Mai (it's actually a large chain), for those seeking reasonably-priced Japanese food, Fuji is a must. Expect to pay 120 baht and up for each dish (for instance, a single sushi roll), however there are several spectacular set meals that offer great "bang for your buck", e.g., the Fuji Sashimi Set which can easily fill up a sushi lover for 190 baht. 120+ baht.

• Gigantea, 300 Chang Moi Rd, ☎ +66 53 233464. Daily, 11:00-14:00, 17:00-22:00. Owned and managed by a cute Japanese-Thai husband and wife team, this restaurant is known as the best Japanese restaurant among Japanese residents in Chiang Mai. Although the menu is limited, ingredients are always fresh, cooking and presentation are excellent. Lunch is best value for money, with set meals costing around 140-200 baht.

• Kanson Sushi Bar, Kotchasan Rd, Soi 1. A little hidden in a side street, but visible from the main road near Tha Phae Gate. Delicious and very good value for money (250 baht will fill you).

• Sushi Box Chiang Mai, 16/1 Moo 2, Huay Kaew Rd (between the first ring road/Nimman and the Canal Road, at The Harbour, an open air mall), ☎ +66 81 5552103, e-mail: sushibox@chiangmaibest.com. Reasonably priced sushi, sashimi, and standard sushi bar Japanese meals. This is the first Sushi Box in Chiang Mai, there are five in Phuket. Mainly Thai crowd, moderately priced, lounge upstairs, great for people watching. Open 11:00-23:00. Can get busy at night.

Korean

• Gogi Jib Stone Grill Barbecue (Korean BBQ), 29/3 Kotchasarn Rd (just outside Tha Phae Gate), ☎ +66 84 4541943. 12:00-23:00. Modern and friendly Korean barbecue spot offering high quality beef and pork as well as other Korean traditional dishes. Great artwork on the colourful walls and groovy tunes floating over conversation. The staff are very attentive and the owners are right there to give a quick Korean lesson. 295 baht and up includes unlimited side dishes.

Vegetarian

It can be hard to find strictly vegetarian food in Chiang Mai, as fish and oyster sauce are used frequently, and the local Buddhist monks themselves often eat fish. (Thus, asking for your dish to be prepared "like the monks", which works in other places, does not get the same results in Chiang Mai). There are a few completely vegetarian options, however.

• Anchan, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi Hillside 3 (opposite Soi 13), ☎ +66 83 5811689. Excellent vegetarian food, perhaps the best in Chiang Mai.

• Aum, 65 Moon Muang Rd (just inside Tha Phae Gate, next to Black Canyon Coffee), ☎ +66 53 278315. 08:30-14:30, 17:00-21:00; closed on the 1st and 2nd of each month. Best khao soi in town! She makes a mushroom stock from scratch with barely any sugar, unlike other places. No MSG. Interesting yet relaxed interior with shelves of books and a cozy upstairs area.

• Blue Diamond, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 9. M-Sa 08:00-21:00. Thai and Western, huge selection of items for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Great salads, fruits, juices, noodle dishes, bakery, good breads.

• Gulf Restaurant, Anusarn Market (in the very corner inside Anusarn Mkt, next to the pharmacy). open late. Lebanese owner/chef caters to middle eastern food lovers. Large portions of delicious tabbouleh, tahini salads, and humus alongside fresh falafel and simply brilliant flat bread (a secret recipe). Shisha/nargila/water pipes are available (mint & grape flavour is a new favourite) as well as mint tea.

• ImmAim/Pun Pun (the other Pun Pun), Santhitam Rd (near the YMCA, at the south end of Santhitam Rd, follow signs to). Not quite sure why there are two Pun Puns, but this one is definitely good. A mix of Thai and other styles, run by laconic locals linked to a local farm. The falafel is lovely (but different) and the salsa it comes with is delicious. Pasta can be quite sweet, and the cookies are great.

• Khun Churn, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 15, ☎ +66 53 224124. Daily, 09:30-22:00. Thai vegetarian. A lunch buffet is available every day from 11:00-14:30 for 129 baht. Closes at 14:30 on the 16th of every month.

• Ming Kwan Vegetarian Buffet, Ratchadamnoen Rd (opposite the police station). days only. A different range of Thai vegan dishes from the norm. A focus on faux-meats (the veggie sausage is great!) and the faux-fish in curry sauce was good. Of course, bamboo shoot stir-fry, noodle-soups, etc., means there's lots to try. They cook during the day, so other dishes appear from the kitchen often.

• No Name Buddhist Buffet, Phrapokkloa Rd (yellow fronted shop, 80 m north of Phatoo Chiang Mai (the South Gate) on the right next to the Kodak shop). Daily, 06:00-16:00. Delicious vegan buffet is available at super cheap prices. There are a few great dishes: the tofu, mushroom, and lemon grass wrapped in banana leaves is addictive; the het-hom (shitake) and other protein/gluten goodies are lovely; the steaming noodle soup is a great addition to a meal if you've rocked up late and want to warm up the buffet dishes. The earlier the better at this place! When dishes run out, they aren't remade. Also, you can buy some vegan supplies from here.

• Pun Pun Vegetarian Restaurant, Wat Suan Dok Temple, Suthep Rd (inside the temple compound behind the monk chat building in an outdoor courtyard with a large boddhi tree and tables with umbrellas.), ☎ +66 86 101850. 09:00-15:00, closed W. Thai vegetarian with organic ingredients from local farmers and many vegan-friendly options. Run by a local self-reliance and seed-saving centre outside the city.

• Taste from Heaven, 237 Tha Phae Rd, ☎ +66 53 208803. Thai vegetarian with vegan options. Owned by a friendly English expat, this restaurant offers curries and noodle dishes in a comfortable and clean setting, with both indoor and garden seating.

Drink

Chiang Mai's night life scene is the most happening in the north, although still a far cry from Bangkok's hot spots. The busiest night life zones are near Tha Phae Gate, Loi Kroh Rd and along Charoen Rat Rd on the east bank of the Ping River.

Bars and pubs

Many, but by no means all, of Chiang Mai's tourist-oriented bars and pubs are located along Loi Kroh Rd, outside the southeast quadrant of the old city. In addition to the street bars, the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex (CMEC) can be found at the Night Bazaar-end of Loi Kroh. Here you will find around 30 bars ranging from sports bars that feature big screens to watch sports and play pool, to Pattaya-style girlie "beer bars", to even bars staffed exclusively by kathoeys (ladyboys). The complex also features a muay Thai boxing ring that has exhibition bouts for free or a voluntary donation, and on Thursdays real competitive boxing that requires an entrance fee unless your bar has provided you with complimentary viewing. And for extra fun, the occasional Westerner climbs into the ring, usually with hilarious results.

Also take a stroll along Moon Muang Road and its side sois. Here you can find small expat hangouts and sports bars. Most have pool tables and hostesses, along with music videos or various TV sport programmes. Be aware that despite their charm and friendliness, the pressure to purchase lady drinks can result in a very surprising tab at the end of the night.

Loi Kroh Rd (Night Bazaar)

• Dragonfly Bar, 8/1 Loi Kroh Road. One of the smaller bars at the top of Loi Kroh but also one of the most cosy. What really make this place stand out is the friendly staff and the fact that this bar has two floors so you can get away from the bustle of street level and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere from the balcony.

• Kat Bar (Loi Kroh in the CMEC). Hosted by the feisty and effervescent Jane who always has a great selection of music of your choice played as loud as you like, together with free pool and a wonderful group of really friendly girls to ease your shyness. Always a great favourite as it does not have girls of the pushy, "buy me a drink" type, but the quality service always ensures their welcome visitors want to come back.

• Sweetheart Bar, Loi Kroh Soi 2 (just a few metres off Loi Kroh). 12:00-last man standing. Small, clean bar run by an expat Brit. (NB: this is a Liverpool FC house!) Convivial atmosphere of mostly expats. Sunday Roast served from 13:00-17:00, 195 baht. Free, strong Wi-Fi and all the matches on cable TV. Large Leo beer, 90 baht.

• 2Gether Bar & Restaurant (Loi Kroh Soi 1, just past Number 1 Bar, on the left). M-F, 10:30-01:00; Sa 13:00-01:00; Su, 17:00-01:00. Very reasonable prices, 10-30% less than others in the Loi Kroh neighbourhood. This bar/restaurant has a very good atmosphere. The host is the charming Mai. There is a free pool table, but don't expect an easy game if she is playing. A little-known fact about this place: it serves terrific food. A true undiscovered gem in Chiang Mai. E.g., large baguette sandwiches for less than 100 baht. Leo beer, 65 baht.

Nimmanhaemin Rd

Northwest of the city centre, the area around Nimmanhaemin Rd is a popular hangout for younger Thais, perhaps due to its proximity to Chiang Mai University. The pubs tend to straddle a fine line between bar, restaurant, and nightclub, and feature loud music interspersed with live bands fronted by musicians who are most likely hitting the books in the daytime. Tourists looking for something racier are better off staying in the east side of town. Little English is spoken in this part of town. Little doesn't mean none, however, and the staff of many bars, being students, still can understand what do you want, or even sometimes can speak English reasonably well.

• BangRak, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 6.. 18:00-01:00. Hangout spot for a primarily student crowd. Weekends are standing room only and the clubbing atmosphere is complete; weekdays are a little slower. Well air-conditioned, and no cover charge, but you'll be expected to purchase some drinks.

• Mo'C Mo'L, Huay Kaew Rd. Pub and restaurant near Chiang Mai University, there are many zones in the restaurant: coffee shop, dining outdoors near the small pond, dining indoors with live music.

• Monkey Club, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 9., ☎ +66 53 226997-8.. 17:00-01:00.. Another hot spot for students and 20-somethings, with a variety of live music.

• Warm Up Bar This chain bar/restaurant/club has several venues in Thailand. The venue in Chiang Mai is a lot less touristy and the dance hall packed to the brim with Thai students.

Many smaller (usually no live music, but offer TV, generally with football or other sports) roadside Thai bars around this area, but outside of more upmarket Nimmanhaemin Rd, they are cheap (50 to 65 baht for a large Chang or Leo is common). Often they have a discount if you buy 3 bottles of their proffered beer at one go, with a price of 129, 119, or even 109 baht for all three. The posters about those "promotions", if any, are in Thai language only. If you can't read Thai, look for the numbers mentioned above, and, if in doubt, ask the staff. Often (if they can speak enough English) the staff will tell you about any special offers, if they have any. Expats sometimes can be seen in those small bars, but generally most of the customers are Thais.

Other locations

• Café Souvannaphoum, 20/1 Ratchamanka Rd (near Moon Muang), ☎ +66 53 903781. M-Sa 17:00-01:00. A decent wine bar with comfortable seating and relaxing music, a great escape from the busy street scene.

• Crank Tavern (bottom of Ratchaphakhinai Rd (near Chiang Mai Gate)), ☎ +66 81 9527699. A beautiful recycled wood bar with free Internet and friendly staff. Good pub food, and is a great place to have a meal and spend a relaxing evening. Home of Crank Adventures, excellent mountain bike tours and bike hire.

• Half Moon Pub, Soi 2 Moon Muang (around the corner from Top North Guesthouse), ☎ +66 85 3205023. 10:00-late. Sports bar with many regulars and tourists. Darts and pool area, big TV, really nice international cuisine, especially the burgers, but also good Thai and Indian dishes. Excellent (can be loud) music, friendly atmosphere and beautiful women.

• Next Place (on Moon Muang Rd, on the inside of the moat near Tha Phae Gate). No pressure to buy lady drinks, free pool for customers, and friendly staff

• The Pub, 189 Huay Kaew Rd (near Amiri Rincome Hotel), ☎ +66 53 211550. 07:00-23:00. Long-established English-style pub, has had a makeover and extended the bar and the restaurant, but kept its charm. Great selection of food and drinks, including roast dinners on Sundays. Has an outside area where you can sit and enjoy the tranquillity of a tropical garden, and has recently added bungalows for those wishing to linger longer. Bungalows, 800+ baht.

• The Writers Club, 141/3 Rachadamnern Rd (about 2 km into the old city from Tha Phae Gate.), ☎ +66 53 814187, +66 53 814187. An old fashioned bar and restaurant for SE Asia's community of authors, journalists, and screenwriters, though everyone's welcome. A good, informal source of information about SE Asia. This is where the some of those writing guidebooks gather.
• Zoe in Yellow, 40/12 Ratvithi Rd. Very large indoor/outdoor bar and club with a dance floor, live music or DJ, including lots of outdoor seating and multiple bars. Located in the Old City. If you're looking to party with foreigners in Chang Mai, this is the place to be. Does not open until night, but goes until late.

Live music

The area along the east bank of the Mae Ping River on Charoen Rat Rd is famous for jazz, rock, pop, Thai, and country and Western live music, along with restaurants serving Thai, Western, and Chinese food. Coming from the centre of the city, just walk from the Night Bazaar across the Nawarat Bridge, from where all the restaurants can be seen along the river on the left.

Most bands in Chiang Mai play for about an hour, and then move on to do the same at another restaurant or pub, so don't be surprised to see the same band if you switch venues.

• Boy Blues Bar (in the Kalare Centre (near the food hall) in the Night Bazaar on the mezzanine floor opposite the dancing stage). 19:00-01:00. The owner, "Boy", plays great blues guitar and is a nephew of Chiang Mai legend "Took", of the now defunct Brasserie. Monday night is jamming night and some great visiting musicians have made this often memorable. Bangkok blues legend, Chai (of Chai's Blues Bar fame), often joins in, as do Chiang Mai's local brass section greats Roddy and Craig. Well worth a visit.

• The Bridge Bar, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 11, ☎ +66 81 5950678. till 01:00. Live music every night, except Monday: Brit pop, rock, Thai. Mostly Thais go to this bar but you will as well see some expats, age: 22-32. Service is excellent and if you happen to go there by yourself, for sure someone will come up to talk to you. The menu includes delicious cocktails: "Mango Kiss", "Velvet"! Cheap beer & Sangsom (Thai rum) as well as snacks. The outside sitting area is perfect if you want to talk.

• The Chiang Mai Riverside Restaurant, 9-11 Charoen Rat Rd, ☎ +66 53 243239. The live music starts around 19:00 with dinner music from the Eagles, Beatles, or soft jazz. Starting at 21:00, the music changes to more rock and pop songs. Full bar service serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. The restaurant gets very crowded, so get here early to get a table. The Riverside also offers a nightly dinner cruise departing at 20:00 for 110 baht/person extra.

• The Good View, 13 Charoen Rat Rd, ☎ +66 53 241886. Thai and western varieties of rock, jazz, pop and country music entertain in the evening. Their extensive menu offers more than 150 Thai, Chinese, and Western dishes, including curries, noodles, rice, and pizza. Soft drinks and a full bar serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. Again, if you want a good, river view table, get there early.

• The North Gate Jazz Collective (inside the city moat, east of Chang Phuak Gate). The North Gate has easily become one of the most popular, regular destinations for Chiang Mai's young expat community. With nightly jazz performances starting around 21:30 with different performers and occasional guests from the audience, the North Gate adds something unique to the often repetitious Chiang Mai live music scene. Mixed bag in terms of quality. Sometimes great, sometimes mediocre. In addition to nightly music performed by true lovers and technicians of jazz, the North Gate offers a variety of drinks not normally found in Chiang Mai, notably red and white wine, mojitos, and other mixed drinks. The staff is quick and efficient and prices are reasonable.

• Tha Chang Jazz Club, 25 Charoen Rat Rd (next to Gallery Restaurant), ☎ +66 53 248601. Good for a drink any day, but best visited on Saturdays for live jazz.

Nightclubs

• Discovery (opposite Kad Suan Kaew shopping centre and Lotus Pang Suan Kaew Hotel). A small club with live band, DJ, and huge screens showing music videos. Good for drinking nights and letting loose. Bring ID/passport as they can be strict with entry, especially on weekends.

• Hot Shots (at Pornping Tower Hotel). A Thai place with live music most nights, reasonable drink prices and no cover charge for foreigners or locals.

• Mandalay. Has a younger Thai crowd. Foreigners pay a cover charge. Locals don't. Even overseas Asians seem to get in for free. The manager doesn't seek Western tourists, but if you don't mind dual pricing, this is your peek into the world of young Thais at play! Every local person will tell you that this is only a gay bar.

• Spicy. A hectic after-hours place with good drinks, dancing and lots of girls looking to party. Be forewarned, many are bar girls, so do not be surprised if they ask for money to go home with you.

Gay bars

Chiang Mai is a popular destination for gay tourists and many gay people have retired here. Highlights of the vibrant gay scene include:

• Garden Bar & Restaurant, 2/25 Soi Viangbua, Chotana Rd (across the street from Adams Apple), ☎ +66 53 215376. Outdoor garden bar and restaurant serving Lebanese, Western and Thai food. Popular meeting place for gay expats and tourists.

• Golden Ball (Bon Tong), corner of Tewan Rd and Santitham Rd, ☎ +66 53 406043. Northern Thai-style outdoor bar and restaurant. Packed with very friendly staff and fun atmosphere. Drinks start at 45 baht for a large Chang beer..

• Soho Bar & Guesthouse, 20/3 Huay Kaew Rd (about 100 m from the Kad Suan Kaew shopping mall, opposite the Chiang Mai Orchid Hotel), ☎ +66 53 404175, +66 85 0298485, +66 82 6959930, e-mail: sohocm@hotmail.com. Expats, tourists, and Thai men.

Coffee

Chiang Mai has sprouted a thriving coffee culture, having an abundance of roadside stalls to Starbucks-style chains seemingly every few metres. Baristas consistently squeeze out a decent cup from their machines regardless of the price or opulence of their premises. A standard espresso or long black (Americano) is 30 baht, iced around 35 baht and upwards of 45 baht for more elaborate milk and sprinkles.

• @.ju Coffee, 52 Ratchamanka. Run by "Oil", this little place has excellent espresso-based drinks, free Wi-Fi, or ten minutes on the computer with your coffee. Very modern design; seating in the front is open-air while the back is air conditioned. Oil herself speaks excellent English and is happy to give you the low-down.

• Bitter Sweet, Huay Kaew Rd. The noisy location is made up for by the excellent espresso. Internet is free, and the "fishbowl" inside is both air conditioned and sound-proofed against the rush of traffic.

• Doppio Ristr8to, 15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd, ☎ +66 53 215278. A trendy art cafe featuring an award-winning barista, choices of single-origin beans and a varied drink menu. Very friendly atmosphere at much higher standard than is normally seen in Thailand.

• The Shack Cafe, 41 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 6 (opposite Giant Guest House, near Da's Bakery). This cosy spot, nestled comfortably between a bakery and a leather shop, at the quiet part of the popular Soi 6, serves excellent coffee in a relaxing atmosphere. Free Wi-Fi. Serves a la carte breakfasts, a daily Thai dish, and great all-you-can-eat BBQs every W & Sa.

• Wawee Coffee, Many locations around the city. Looks much like a Starbucks, but nice mugs if you drink it there. Inside is well air-conditioned, outside is under a canopy (they mist water in the heat of the afternoon). The staff pride themselves on their decorative drinks (look for the panda-topped latte.) Internet available for small fee.

Sleep

Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap, even by Thai standards. All types of lodging are available from inexpensive guest-houses with little or no service to the typical high rise hotels and elaborate garden resorts. The latest boom is Thai-style boutique resorts located near the old city centre - several have been built since mid-2005, and offer excellent service in quiet garden settings; most are fairly small with as few as 8 rooms and a pool, and are decorated with Thai crafts and antiques.

Evenings in Chiang Mai are cooler than Bangkok and the south during the dry season, so air conditioning may be less of a priority.

Some of the cheapest accommodation may refuse guests who are not also booking a trekking package. If so, please remove them from Wikivoyage.

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget	less than 500 baht
Mid-range	500-1,500 baht
Splurge	over 1,500 baht

Budget

• 7 Century Guest House, 270 Ratchaphakhinai Rd, ☎ +66 53 287541 and +66 81 4388175, e-mail: le7century.guesthouse@hotmail.com.Check-out: 12:00. Newly renovated guest house, but somehow already a bit worn. 2 single (150 baht), 4 double (180-220 baht) and 1 triple rooms (250 baht). Singles can be a bit mouldy due to poor drainage and ventilation. Good hot shower (private for single rooms, shared for double and triple). Terrace. Free Wi-Fi. If they have a laptop free you can borrow it to take to your room. Fan in rooms. Kitchen free to use. Soft beds. Service also available in good German. Help with booking trips, treks, motorbikes and other things. Friendly staff. 150-250 baht.

• B.R. Hotel, Morakot Rd (northwest corner of the moat, from where Huay Kaew Rd turns to the left, drive straight (north) 700 m, turn left on Morakot Rd and you'll see the sign on the right side), ☎ +66 53 220061. Check-out: 12:00. Simple, but cosy Thai hotel. Fan rooms are often sold out, however 299 baht for an air-con room with TV and small balcony is an excellent value during hot or wet season. No Wi-Fi (but Truemove 850 MHz 3G works perfectly). While the hotel is not far from the centre, the closest place where you can catch a public songthaew (near Kad Suan Kaew Mall) is almost 1 km away, so the place is better suited for those who rent a motorbike. Free parking. On the nearby intersection with Hasadhisawee Rd, there are numerous and cheap food stalls in the evening. Hotel staff generally doesn't speak any English. If no vacancy, there's Inthanon Hotel next on the same road, priced ~50 baht more. 199 baht fan, from 299 baht air-con.

• Bed and Terrace Chiang Mai Guest House, 10 Kotchasarn Rd, Soi 5, ☎ +66 53 449708 and +66 83 8285599, e-mail: service@bedandterrace.com. Thai modern-style guest house with terrace, comfortable rooms with double windows overlook a panoramic mountain view. 500 baht.

• FWD House Hostel (Box dorm with 10 single beds), 78 Ratchamanka Rd (4.3 km from the airport, 4.5 km from the train station, 5 km from the bus station), ☎ +66 82 6233349, e-mail: forwardhouse.th@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:00. A 10-minute walk to the temples and Loi Kroh Rd, and a minute walk to the Sunday night market. Owner and staff are welcoming, friendly, can cater to your personal needs, and also make you feel at home. 180 baht.

• Giant Guest House 1 & 2, Giant 1, 24/1 Moon Muang Rd. Giant 2, 4 Rachamanka Rd, ☎ +66 87 1821611, e-mail: giantguesthouse@gmail.com.Check-out: 12:00. Two gueshouses. Cheap basic rooms, hot showers, free Wi-Fi, free shared computer, free bicycles, free water, reggae bar attached (Freedom Bar 16:00-24:00). Can book everything here and sightsee by bicycle. Kitchen with cooking lessons available and massage school 200 m away. Watch out for the 300 baht room "switch" after they pick you up in the airport. They will give you this price in front of the guesthouse. 100 baht dorms, 180 baht single fan room (shared bath), 250 baht queen bed with fan (private bathroom). Monthly rates 3,500 baht, single room with fan and shared bathroom (1 person).

• Green Tulip Guest House, 18 Samlan Rd, ☎ +66 53 278367. Guesthouse with a roof-top garden, Internet café, and large screen TV in the lobby. Beautifully decorated and designed with elegant wood floors throughout the building. Choice of fan and air-con rooms with shared or private bathrooms. 250-650 baht.

• Hollanda Montri Guest House, 365 Charoen Rat Rd, ☎ +66 53 242450. Family-style guesthouse, fan or air-con rooms, and with a tropical garden on the banks of the Mae Ping River. 500 baht..

• Julie Guest House, 7/1 Prapokklao Rd, Soi 5, ☎ +66 53 274355. Popular guesthouse located in a quiet part of the old city near Tha Phae Gate. This guesthouse is notorious for filling quickly (quite often by 09:00) as it is listed in some guide books. The lounge area is often full of travellers. Food and drinks are served. The in-house travel agency can do all sorts of bookings for you. Free Wi-Fi, but it doesn't always work. from 100-180 baht (fan room without/with en suite).

• Lek Guesthouse, 22 Chaiyaphum Rd, ☎ +66 53 252686, e-mail: lek@chiangmai-online.com.Check-out: 12:00. All rooms have fan and private bathroom with hot water. Hidden in a quiet alley. Free Wi-Fi. single, 250 baht; double, 300 baht.

• Linda Guesthouse, 456/67 Soi Banditpatana (close to the railway station, follow the sign at Charoen Muang Rd), ☎ +66 53 246915, fax: +66 53 246915, e-mail: lindaguesthouse@hotmail.com. East of Tha Phae Gate, easily accessible on songthaew routes. Very clean rooms. The guest house also offers many trekking tours. The staff speaks German, English, and Thai. Family-like atmosphere. Cheap and very good food around the clock, freshly made. 100-300 baht, reduced cost for longer stays possible.

• A Little Bird Guesthouse, 17 Soi 1 Ratvithi Rd, ☎ +66 53 289577, e-mail: alittlebird_cm@hotmail.com.Check-out: 12:00. Cheap basic dorms with hot shower and free Wi-Fi. An easy place to meet other travellers in a good location. 100 baht mixed dorm; 120 baht female dorm.

• Mint House, 80-82 Prapokklao (Soi 5). Near Chiang Mai Gate., ☎ +66 86 2531743. Really friendly and helpful staff. Centrally located, clean and good prices for dorms and rooms. Rooms have dedicated bathrooms that, strangely, are not en suite, but all across the hallway. Keep an eye out for room rates changing after you've already checked-in (e.g., +100 baht). Don't be a wimp when this happens. Single 200 baht, double 300 baht, dorm 120 baht.

• Parami Guesthouse , ☎ +66 53 266139. A small cosy family-run guest house. 300-550 baht.

• Ping River Inn, ☎ +66 81 9935187, e-mail: ping.river.inn@hotmail.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A basic but clean inn along the Ping River near Nakorn Ping Bridge and the yellow songthaew route. Hot showers, two bottles of free drinking water, towels, roof access, cable, and free Wi-Fi. If the foot bridge over the river ever gets fixed, the Ping River Inn will be within five minutes walking distance of Warorot Market. 390-540 baht.

• Riders Corner (Rider's Corner Bar & Restaurant), 357, Moon Muang Rd (NE corner of moat), ☎ +66 87 0481787, e-mail: riders.corner.cnx@gmail.com. De facto motorcyclist headquarters in Chiang Mai. Clean and comfortable. Full restaurant and bar. Five rooms and frequently fully booked. Free Wi-Fi. Secure parking for motorcycles. English owner is helpful and free with information. Sells great maps of north Thailand. 250-550 baht.

• Siri Guesthouse, 31/3 Moon Mueang, Soi 5, ☎ +66 53 326550. A family-run guest house on a popular, but quiet lane. Fan and air-con rooms, all with bathrooms and hot water. Free Wi-Fi. 700 baht.

• Spicy House, 42/1 Ratchamanka Rd. directions=, ☎ +66 84 6134776 (Mim)., e-mail: spicyhouse@hotmail.com. Perhaps the friendliest little guest house in Chiang Mai. Beloved by backpackers everywhere for its low cost and friendly atmosphere. Mim, the owner, gives a free meal for guests every night. She is also an expert chef, and Spicy House serves as a cooking school sometimes. Spicy House is in the dead centre of the Chiang Mai action, but down a quiet soi where you can withdraw from it when needed.

• Tha Phae Inn, 164-166 Tha Phae Rd (about 400 m east of Tha Phae Gate on the north side), ☎ +66 53 234640, fax: +66 53 252790. Family-run guesthouse. Friendly. Excellent value/location combination. Basic double rooms with bathrooms, hot water & small TV. Free Wi-Fi. Common area with tables so you can bring food and eat. Refreshments for sale on-premises. 200-300 baht.

• YMCA International Hotel, 11 Mengrairasmi Sermsuk Rd, ☎ +66 53 221819, e-mail: chiangmai:hotel@ymcachiangmai.org. 88 rooms and dormitory. Restaurant, swimming pool, coffee shop, massage. Standard room, 600 baht.

Mid-range

• Boonthavon Apartment Hotel, 39 Soi 1, Ratchadamnoen Rd (walk from Tha Phae Gate into the old city down Ratchadamnoen Rd; turn right after 10 m at Soi 1. Follow it round (100 m), Boonthavon is on your left.), ☎ +66 53 226700 email=. Dead central, and probably the cleanest hotel in Chiang Mai. Extremely friendly staff (only a few of whom speak English). Security entrance. A short walk to the Tha Phae Gate in the old city (nice central location). Monthly rentals are available at 7,500 baht with a 5,000 baht deposit (on top of the 7,500 baht, there are additional charges: electricity is 7 baht per kilowatt, 600 baht for unlimited Internet, 200 baht for cable TV, and 200 baht for water). Location is great. Just around the corner is a great little cafe called "Angel's" which serves a mix of Thai food and really great Western breakfasts. The location of the hotel is also a short walk to several excellent restaurants and cafes such as the UN Irish Pub, New Delhi Indian Restaurant, and Loco Elvis Tex-Mex. Double room with balcony, private bathroom, air conditioning, mini-fridge, and small TV is 550 baht with an additional 50 baht per day for Internet.

• BP Chiang Mai City Hotel, 154 Ratchamanka Rd, ☎ +66 53 270711, e-mail: info@bpchiangmaicityhotel.com. A mid-sized hotel with a small fitness centre and pool. 1,000-2,000 baht.

• The Castle, 8/3 Ratchiangsan Rd, Soi 2, ☎ +66 53 209093. Up-scale place built like a Spanish villa. 990-1,200 baht.

• Centre of the Universe (Chiang Mai Swimming Pool and Resort), near Chiang Mai Zoo and Aquarium (Google Map Ref: 18.8201,98.9584), ☎ +66 81 4730746 or +66 53 327808 info@therealcentreoftheuniverse.com. With only 3 detached Thai-style bungalows in a private garden, this has to be the smallest boutique hotel with the biggest swimming pool in Chiang Mai. Very friendly and helpful staff. Each room has air-con, TV, Wi-Fi, fridge, tea and coffee making facilities and access to 3 swimming pools. 1,200-1,500 baht.

• Chiang Mai Apartments, 9/2 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 7 (across from the Sri Pat Guesthouse (no sign)), ☎ +66 53 225140. Very central, clean and bright rooms. Excellent quality. Free Wi-Fi in room. 650 baht (fan)- 950 baht (air-con), both including a modest breakfast.

• Cool Guesthouse, 87 Sripoom Rd, Sripoom (close to Chang Phuak Gate), ☎ +66 53 212618, e-mail: info@coolguesthouse.com. Small boutique guesthouse with patio and garden. Free bicycle use for guests. English, French, and Spanish speaking staff. Each room has air-con and fan, cable TV, free Wi-Fi, safe box. 500-800 baht.

• Elliebum, 114/3-4 Ratchamanka Rd, ☎ +66 53 814723, e-mail: elliebum@gmail.com. Friendly boutique guesthouse, beautifully furnished, spacious, spotlessly clean, air conditioned, en suite twin or double rooms. Breakfast included. 900-1,500 baht.

• Hub53, 53 Kan Klong Chon Pra Tan Rd, ☎ +66 89 1188810. Has seven air-con rooms with wood furnishings, cable TV, coffee/tea maker, hair dryer, room safe, telephone, keycard access, and refrigerator, a balcony, private toilet and bath with hot shower, free Wi-Fi, and a free English newspaper daily. 1,100 baht.

• Lai-Thai Guest House, 111/4-5 Kotchasarn Rd, ☎ +66 53 271725 or +66 53 206438, e-mail: mail@laithai.com. A large northern Thai-style guesthouse with hotel-like facilities and services. All 110 air-conditioned rooms en suite with hot shower are decorated with traditional wooden floors and bamboo walls, equipped with minibar, cable & satellite TV, and free Wi-Fi. 500-780 baht.

• Nice Mum Lodge, Loi Kroh Rd, Soi 2 (less than 50 m off Loi Kroh Rd), ☎ +66 83 2044111, e-mail: lodge@gmail.com. Oddly named, but a superior accommodation. Very well situated, close to shops, bars, restaurants, the Night Bazaar. Spotlessly clean if somewhat austere. Run by the affable Mr. Pong, who speaks good English. Great plumbing, showers, large flat screen TVs with Western programming, fridge. Secure, covered parking for those turning up with expensive rides. Highly recommended. Free, excellent Wi-Fi. 800+ baht.

• Royal Peninsula Hotel, Assadatorn Rd, Northeast (a few hundred metres from the corner of the city square to the north of Tha Phae Gate). Good rooms, air-con, hot water, bar fridge and TV. 900 baht.

• Sakulchai Place, Huay Kaew Rd, Soi 10, ☎ +66 53 211982. Spacious and clean. Standard, deluxe and superior rooms available for daily/weekly/monthly rates. Internet (Wi-Fi/LAN), air-con, hot showers. New building, modern rooms. In the trendy Nimmanhaemin district across from shopping mall and 5-10 minute walking distance to night life, cafes, restaurants.

• Smile House Boutique , ☎ +66 53 800567-8. A wooden house which is simply decorated to create a peaceful atmosphere. The rooms are beautifully decorated 700-1,200 baht.

• Sri-Pat Guesthouse, 16 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 7 (inside the moat, northwest quadrant), ☎ +66 53 218716. Nice guest house with air conditioning, TV, private shower, fridge and a little balcony. Try getting a room on the street side, since the other side has a water pump working during the night which can be annoying in some rooms. 900 baht.

• Viangbua Mansion, 3/1 Viangbua Rd, ☎ +66 53 411202. Deluxe serviced-apartments for daily rental. Offer a wide range of services and some degree of security. Located in a somewhat remote northwest area of the city. 900 baht.

Splurge

• Baan Orapin, 150 Charoen Rat Rd, ☎ +66 53 16164016. Only 6 rooms in a beautifully restored old Thai house set in a small garden. Air-con, hot water. 3,000 baht.

• Ban Shewe Wana Suite Resort, 290-292 Charoen Muang Rd, ☎ +66 53 240020, e-mail: reservations@shewewanasuite.com. 12,000 baht.

• Central Duangtawan Hotel, 132 Loi Kroh Rd, ☎ +66 53 905000, e-mail: cdc@chr.co.th. Excellent four-star hotel with cheaper Internet rates. However the Internet connection speed there is terribly slow. Probably a little cheaper than similar hotels as it's in the red-light district, but the area seems quite safe and the hotel is of very high quality. For those not staying at the hotel, for 200 baht, you can use the high quality gym on the fourth floor (includes a Jacuzzi, steam room, and sauna, as well as a large L-shaped swimming pool that looks out on downtown Chiang Mai). 1,450-2,950 baht.

• Chedi Chiang Mai, 123-123/1 Charoen Prathet Rd, ☎ +66 53 253333. A modern hotel on the grounds of the former British Consulate. 84 deluxe rooms and club suites, all with a private courtyard it also features a fitness and health club, two bars, a restaurant featuring Thai, Indian, and Western cuisine, a spa and an outdoor swimming pool. from 10,400 baht.

• Empress Chiang Mai, 199/42 Chang Klan Rd, ☎ +66 53 253199, fax: +66 53 272467, e-mail: rsvn@empresshotels.com. Luxury hotel in traditional Lanna-style with 375 rooms and suites, a convention centre, sauna rooms, outdoor swimming pool, business centre, and massage parlour. Good breakfast and friendly staff. 1,500-5,500 baht.

• Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, 51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Rd, Moo 1, ☎ +66 53 888888. In the traditional Lanna-style, this resort includes a spa, cooking classes, kid's club, and fitness centre. The resort caused some local controversy when it built a fake temple based on one of Thailand's most holy sites in its grounds.

• Ping Nakara Boutique Hotel & Spa, 135/9, Charoen Prathet Rd, ☎ +66 53 252999, e-mail: info@pingnakara.com. Nicely designed with hand-carved fretwork. over 4,200 baht.

• RatiLanna Riverside Spa Resort, 33 Chang Klan Rd, ☎ +66 53 999333, fax: +66 53 999332, e-mail: info@ratilannachiangmai.com. A luxury boutique resort on the bank of the Mae Ping River and the centre of Chiang Mai. Only minutes away from Chiang Mai Airport and the Night Bazaar. 4,400-24,000 baht.

• The Rim Chiang Mai, 51/2 Arrak Rd (close to Wat Phra Sing), ☎ +66 53 903999, e-mail: butler@therimchiangmai.com. Luxury hotel in traditional Lanna-style, 36 rooms, outdoor swimming pool, tropical garden, fitness club, and spa, restaurant (Thai & Western cuisine) and very friendly staff. from 4,800 baht.

Stay safe

Emergency contacts

• Police - emergencies: 191
• Police - Tourist: 1155, 053-278559
• Fire: 053 241777
• Rescue Team: 053 218888

Crime

Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is quite safe, even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but crime is rare and visitors shouldn't worry unduly. As always, travellers should take extra care in all poorly lit or more remote areas. Don't carry valuables in a bag after dark as the most common tourist related crime here is bag-snatching by youths on motorbikes. Mind your bag especially if you are walking on a dark street at night.

The safest approach is to act like your Thai hosts and wear reasonable clothing (shoulders and chest covered) medium-length skirts, long shorts or long pants, speak in a moderate tone of voice, and avoid flashing money or jewelry. Not only will respectable Thais appreciate your behaviour, you are much less likely to become a target of any criminal activity.

Scams

Unfortunately some scams from Bangkok have started to rear their ugly heads in Chiang Mai as well. Two in particular are worth watching out for: the gem scam, where you are talked into buying near-worthless gems at far above their real value; and the tuk-tuk scam, where a smooth-talking tuk tuk driver tells you that the attraction you want to see is closed, and instead offers you a sightseeing tour for 20 baht (or some similarly unrealistic number) - needless to say, the tour will either consist of nothing but overpriced gift shops, or will smoothly segue into the gem scam. See the "Stay Safe" section of the Bangkok article for more details.

Smoke

Chiang Mai's smoke levels can be discomfiting, and sometimes dangerous, during rice field-burning season, approximately Jan through Mar. The whole of northern Thailand often falls under a thick haze in this period, with hundreds of thousands treated for smoke inhalation. There are typically dozens of deaths. For example in 2007, 58 people died of smoke-related heart attacks. If you intend to visit at this time, you are well advised to check on smoke levels in advance. Thousands of residents (foreign and Thai) leave Chiang Mai at this time to escape the smoke. The government is apparently uninterested in fixing the problem: in 2007 famously blaming it on Korean barbecue restaurants, which were all promptly closed down! Presently, the solution is to spray the streets with water to "moisten the air". There is no political will to tackle the burning of rice fields, which is the cause of the smoke. In March 2012, dangerous PM10 particles measured over 200 mcg per cubic metre of air in Chiang Mai, well above the unsafe level of 120 mcg (Note: this is the Thai government standard which is more than twice the maximum level set by the World Health Organization (WHO) at 50 mcg) . Neighbouring areas were as bad or worse (Chiang Rai, for example, was at 306 mcgs) so moving on to a neighbouring province will generally not help: the pall of smoke stretches from northern Laos, across Thailand to eastern Burma.

Water

Tap water should be regarded as non-potable. Liquids from sealed bottles nearly always are, and should be used wherever possible. Nearly all restaurants use ice made by professional ice-making companies and is generally safe. There are street side water vending machines (1 baht per litre) throughout the city. Using one saves money and a lot of plastic refuse.

Connect

Express shipping

• DHL, M Hotel, Tha Phae Gate, ☎ +66 53326 553. World-wide express shipping. Packaging services.

Internet

• Internet Censorship: The government of Thailand actively censors Internet access. 2010 estimates place the number of blocked websites at 110,000 and growing. Roughly 77% are blocked for reasons of lèse majesté, content (content that defames, insults, threatens, or is unflattering to the king, including national security and some political issues), 22% for pornography, which is illegal in Thailand. Some web pages from BBC One, BBC Two, CNN, Yahoo! News, the Post-Intelligencer newspaper (Seattle, USA), and The Age newspaper (Melbourne, Australia) dealing with Thai political content are blocked.

Many guesthouses, hotels, cafes, bars, restaurants, and even swimming pools, offer Wi-Fi connections. These are usually free or available for a small charge. If you are travelling with your laptop you should be able to connect to the Internet within a 500 m radius of your Chiang Mai city-based accommodation at little or no cost.

In November 2012, the Ministry of Information announced the launching of 3,000 free Wi-Fi hotspots in Chiang Mai. The program, called ICT Free Wi-Fi for the Public by AIS, offers a download speed of 10 Mbps for up to five hours a month. Hotspots can be found near schools, shopping centres, hospitals, and government offices. Those interested must sign up for the free service at [25], after which you will receive a user ID and password.

Internet cafes abound and can be found everywhere within the city. Prices vary from 10 baht/hour (in "gaming" places filled with local kids) to 60 baht/half-hour (2 baht/minute) and up. Most places charge per 15 or 30 minute block, others by the minute. The cheapest and most comfortable places with fast connections, webcam, microphone and Skype, can be found along Huay Kaew Road near the main entrance to Chiang Mai University, where the cost is 10-20 baht.

• Buddy Internet, 12 Huay Kaew Rd (northwest corner of the moat, opposite the Central Department Store), ☎ +66 53 404550. 08:00-24:00.

• Crank Tavern, 3/2 Ratchaphakhinai Rd (near Chiang Mai Gate). Internet is free if you buy a drink. They have fast ADSL equipped with Skype and you will be in comfortable surroundings. Also good for bike hire and tours.

As elsewhere in Thailand, GPRS/EDGE is a cheap and convenient option to access Internet if you have a laptop and local SIM card. TrueMove 850 MHz 3G covers most parts of the city. For more details, refer to the Thailand article.

Telephone

• Directory inquiry service: 183/1133
• International and domestic operator-assisted service: 100
• Overseas dial-out code: 001
• AT&T International operator for collect calls: 001 999 11111
• Mobile phones in Thailand have 10 digits, including the leading zero. Land-line telephones have 11 digits, including the leading zero.

Thailand Post

• Airport 24-hr Post Office- 60 Moo 3, Airport Rd, Tel: +66 53 277382.

• Chang Klan Post Office- 186-186/1 Chang Klan Rd, Tel: +66 53 273657.

• Chang Phuak Post Office-195/8-9 Chang Phuak Rd, Tel: +66 53 222483.

• Maeping Post Office- 24 Praisanee Rd, Tel: +66 53 252036-7.

• Main Post Office - Charoen Muang Rd, Tel: +66 53 241 070, +66 53 245376.

• Phra Sing Post Office - Singharat Rd (three-minute walk south of Wat Phra Singh).

• Talat Kam Tieng Post Office – Assadathon Rd, near Tesco Lotus, just off the super highway. This is the post office where you ship/receive bulky objects like bicycles and motorbikes.

Cope

Consulates

• Australia, 165 Sirimungklajarn, ☎ +66 53 219726 or +66 53 400232, fax: +66 53 219726.

• Bangladesh, 95 Huay Kaew Rd, ☎ +66 53 212373-4, fax: +66 53 223524.

• Canada, 151 Super Highway, ☎ +66 53 850147 or +66 53 242292, e-mail: cancon@loxinfo.co.th.

• China, 111 Changlo Rd, Haiya District, ☎ +66 53 276125, 272197, 200424, fax: +66 53 274614, e-mail: cgprccm@loxinfo.co.th.

• Finland, 104-112 Tha Phae Rd, ☎ +66 53 234777.

• Germany (Consulate of the Federal Republic of Germany), 199/163 Moo 3, Baan Nai Fun2, Kan Klong Chonpretan Rd, ☎ +66 53 838735, fax: +66 53 838735.

• Great Britain (British Consulate), 198 Bumrungraj Rd, ☎ +66 53 263015, fax: +66 53 263016, e-mail: ukconsul@loxinfo.co.th ukconsul@loxinfo.co.th ukconsul@loxinfo.co.th.

• India, 33/1, Thung Hotel Rd, ☎ +66 53 243066, fax: +66 53 247879).

• Italy, 19/1 Soi 9 Sirimangkalajarn, ☎ +66 53 212925, fax: +66 53 224832.

• Japan, Airport Business Park, 90 Mahidol Rd, ☎ +66 53 203367, fax: +66 53-203373.

• South Africa, 2nd Fl, Chiang Inn Hotel, 100 Chang Klan Rd, ☎ +66 53 270070-6, fax: +66 53 274299.

• South Korea, V Group Bldg, 3rd Fl, 50 Huay Kaew Rd, ☎ +66 53 223119 Ext: 206, 210, fax: +66 53 225661, e-mail: vgroup@cmnet.co.th.

• Sweden (Svenska Konsulatet i Chiang Mai), 11 Sermsuk Rd, Mengrairasmi, ☎ +66 53 220844, fax: +66 53 210877.

• USA (U.S. Consulate General), 387 Witchayanon Rd, ☎ +66 53 252629, fax: +66 53 252633.

Dental

• Grace Dental Care Clinic, 45 Soi 11 Nimmanhemin Rd, ☎ 66 53 894568-69, e-mail: dent@gracedentalclinic.com. M-F, 09:00-20:30; Sa-Su, 09:00-17:00. Modern, state-of-the-art dental clinic. Many of the practitioners there, about 15 total, have studied abroad. Most, if not all, speak excellent English, as does the staff.

Laundry

There are laundromats and laundry services all over town, but they all wash cold. There is a laundromat that has 3 machines that can do hot washing as well on Chaiyapum Rd (road along the moat from Si Phum corner to Tha Phae Gate) about half way between Sompet market and Tha Phae Gate. Opposite there is a cafe from where you can watch your stuff while having a beer.

Medical

• Loi Kroh Clinic, 62/2 Loi Kroh Rd (corner of Loi Kroh Rd and Loi Kroh Soi 3), ☎ +66 53 271571. M-F, 08:00-13:00, 16:30-20:30; Sa, 08:00-13:00; Su, 16:30-20:30. Small clinic for the treatment of minor ailments. Experienced, English-speaking MD. Small pharmacy on the premises. In and out in 15 min, drugs in hand. 560 baht for examination of pink eye infection, course of antibiotics, and eye drops.

Go next

• Chiang Dao - an hour north of the city, and a good starting point for treks into the mountains
• Chiang Rai - a relaxed city 3 hours north, and a transit point on the way to the Golden Triangle and Laos.
• Doi Inthanon National Park - the highest peak in Thailand (2,565 m), 60 km southwest of Chiang Mai
• Lampang - urban Northern Thailand without the commercialism, 100 km southeast of Chiang Mai
• Lamphun - a scenic town with a long history and a longan festival, 26 km southeast of Chiang Mai
• Mae Hong Son - a picturesque little town with lush valleys, rocky streams and a small lake, 235 km from Chiang Mai on Rte 1095. By public bus about 6 hours.
• Nan - the former capital of a small kingdom filled with history and temples and surrounded by mountains
• Pai - a tourist-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller & backpacker scene. Popular with hippies.

Border crossings

• Mae Sai - Tachilek, Myanmar - Five hours north of Chiang Mai on the Thai-Myanmar border lie Mae Sai (Thailand) and Tachilek (Myanmar) best known for their border markets. A popular place to pop over the border for a few hours before renewing your Thai visa. Note that there are no consular services so you cannot get a new visa here. It is possible to get a 14-day Thai visa on re-entry to Thailand which can come in very handy if you do not have any time left on your current Thai visa. The Myanmar fee for a same day entry permit is US$10 or 500 baht (so it is better to use US$). Many people buy Western alcohol, especially wine, while in Myanmar due to the very large duties imposed in Thailand.

• Chiang Khong - Huay Xai, Laos - Six hours by bus (from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal, east of the old town, daily 08:30) to the border where you can catch a boat across the Mekong River to the Lao side (bus will actually stop about 1 km shy of the border, tuk-tuks will be waiting to take you the remainder of the way). From there, slow (2-day) and fast (6-8 hour) boats ply the Mekong to Luang Prabang. Buses are also available to Luang Prabang and north to Luang Namtha.

Routes through Chiang Mai

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