Geographical position: 20° 16' N 100° 24' E
For most tourists it is seen as a transport stop-over, which is quite a pity. While there is not much to see in this small town, it's a good place to adapt to the lao life: sit on the banks of the Mekong, have a beerlao and watch the river flow past, or even better see the hoards of tourists flow past.
Get in 
Immigration: The immigration office is just a few metres from the ferry on the right and efficiently issues 30-day Visas-on-Arrival (around USD35, depending on nationality, or Baht 1500. The cost in Euros tends to be the same as the dollar cost, with Lao authorities ignoring exchange rate differentials). A passport-sized photo is needed and this can be obtained in Chiang Khong before crossing the river or, earlier, near the bus station in Chiang Rai. If you arrive without a passport photo, the official will use a scan of your passport photo for 40 baht. If you arrive on a weekend there is an extra $1 "weekend-fee" for the visa on arrival. During weekdays it will have some other name.
By car 
You can drive from Vientiane on the haunting road. If you want to touch how "haunting" it is, you have to drive at night. There will be no buildings and lights, and sometimes with the tall trees on the side (scary when you drive at night).
By plane 
Houay Xai's tiny airport has service three times a week to/from Vientiane on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Until November 2010 there was one flight a week to Luang Prabang on Saturdays, but none in the other direction. There is talk that this flight will resume.
By bus 
The 9:30am bus from Luang Namtha arrives at the bus station 2km out of town at around 2:30pm. Tuk-tuks charge 10,000 kip to the border or guest house of your choice in town.
Upon arriving in Houay Xai, you might be approached by touts asking about your next destination. If you answer Luang Prabang, you will be pressured to reserve a ticket on a VIP bus, because the bus is invariably "sold out". The ticket will be priced at something ridiculous like 210,000-260,000 kip, which includes transport to the bus station. Upon arriving at the bus station, you will be handed a ticket with the actual price, 110,000 kip, staring back at you as a stinging reminder of your gullibility. At the bus station you can get a ticket all the way to Vientiane for 210,000 kip, which should give some indication of how much of a rip-off the touts in town are trying to pull on you.
If you're going to be in Houay Xai for at least a day, simply take a tuk-tuk to the bus station for 10,000 kip and buy your ticket for the day you plan to leave. The extra money you spend on tuk-tuks is more than offset by the 100,000-150,000 you'll save on your bus ticket.
By ferry 
Ferries cross between Chiang Khong, Thailand and Houay Xai for 40 Baht + 10 Baht for luggage. Immigration offices on both sides of the river close at 6PM. The small ferries carry only a few passengers and leave as soon as there are more than a couple of people on board, so you do not have to hang around. The landing point is near the middle of the town center. In Chiang Khong, the ferry pier is at the northern end of town, a 30 baht tuk-tuk ride from the bus station.
By slow boat 
The slow boat is mainly used to leave Houay Xai as the journey moving upstream is usually just too long for most people. See GET OUT, below, for details. The pier is one km north of town, where the truck-carrying ferry barges also dock.
By speedboat 
Read the warning about speedboats first. The speedboat landing is some 5 km south of town.
By bus 
- The 9:30AM bus from Luang Namtha arrives at the bus station about 2 km out of town at around 2:30PM. The tuk-tuks charge 10,000 kip to the border or guesthouse of your choice in town.
Get around 
You can walk the main street. For longer distances take a bike taxi. A one-way fare to the Chinese morning market should cost 10000 kip.
See sunset over the Mekong river from a riverside restaurant. See the view from the temple tower at the top of the hill on the main street, near the border crossing.
- Pay a visit to the market. This is commonly known locally as the Morning Market and the best time to visit is early morning. The market is in the suburb of Ban Muangkeo. To get there, follow the main road south along the Mekong. After passing a hill, there is a turn-off to the left, which you should follow until you reach the place. Ask people as you go, to make sure you don't take the wrong turning.
- On main street, there is the office of The Gibbon Experience. This is a forest conservation project that raises its funds through taking guests into the Bokeo Nature Reserve. Every other day there is a truck covering the 3.5 hours to the last village, where you start your hike to the project. Accommodation is provided in terrific treehouses which are constructed on giant trees over 40 m high. To access the houses, you glide on a cable from the surrounding hill range. There is an extensive cable network being set up to explore the canopy, providing breathtaking views of the scenery and probably due to its increasing popularity prices have recently increased.
The most important thing to buy is something to eat & drink for the slow-boat journey to Luang Prabang, although nowadays food and drinks are available on most boats. Food is not great but acceptable.
- Money: There's a small bank office offering change for cash and travellers' cheques just next to the immigration office. It has no commission and good rates, better than in the town. Most guest houses and restaurants in town deal in baht, kip and US dollars at decent rates. There are ATMs on the main road straight up the hill from the immigration office with a maximum withdrawal per transaction of 1'000,000 kip. It is better to get baht from Thailand and exchange them here because of the higher limits in thailand, especially if you can obtain an Aeon ATM (nearest: Chiang Rai) which is the only bank in Thailand not having the extra THB150 withdrawal fee.
Most of the guest houses also provide simple meals. The restaurant next door to the Gibbon Experience office is home of the ex-pat crowd in town. It has a nice garden restaurant and terrace overlooking the Mekong river.
Along the water, on the main road, about 1km south of border check there is an outdoor restaurant with a big terrace built on the banks of the Mekong. It offers Lao Barbecue, a tasty combination of Japanese Shabu-Shabu and Korean BBQ, i.e., you grill and stew up your own meats and veggies.
Khongvab Duck BBQ for all those tired of chicken and pork. Popular with locals and delicious! 20m further past Sabaydee Guesthouse on the opposite side. Evening only. From 14:00 to 17:00 when the Duck is on the BBQ you can't miss it.
The Latsuly Return restaurant overlooks the slow boat wharf and truck ferry and is a nice place to watch the world go by.
- Daauw home (Go up the steps to the temple and take the first dirt road on the left, you'll see it on the right hand side.). Small bar and restaurant run by Project Kajsiab (a non-profit that seeks to improve the health of the Lao people in Bokeo Province).
Dinner 70,000-100,000 for two; beer, teas and Mojilaos available in the drinks department. Nice setting and chilled vibes around the fire or on the verandah.
There is not much nightlife in town. To have a beer, simply visit a restaurant or get your own stocks of Beerlao at one of the shops.
- BAP Guesthouse has wound up to be somewhat of a travellers' hangout. Unfortunately, the rates are not the cheapest in town and staff are unfriendly and have a reputation for overcharging. Not only overcharging occurs here, there is a real effort by the management to get as much money out of you as possible. Seriously, avoid this place. Booking a bus here to Chiang Mai may very well leave you stranded in Chiang Khong overnight.
- Friendship Guesthouse is a great family run guesthouse located in the central strip of town. Rooms are available as double or single and all have private bath with hot water. The building's tiled rooftop balcony provides panoramic views of the city and neighboring Chiang Khong across the Mekong River, making for a great place to read a book during the day or have a cup of tea at night and watch life pass by, albeit slowly. Room rates range from USD4-7/night. Make sure that you book a room that is close to the street front as the rear rooms lack natural light. No Internet/wifi. Room rates gone up dramatically (December 2011), expect to pay at least 70000 Kip for the cheapest room (which is crap, on the back, without daylight). Also make sure you're clear about the rate. For example, at least one traveller reported expecting to get a 10000 Kip key deposit back when checking out, but being told suddenly that there is no key deposit.
- Gateway Villas. On the right, at the top of the hill leading up from immigration. starts at 10$/night. free wifi for hotel or restaurant customer.
- Manirath Guesthouse right next to the soi that goes to the ferryboat to Thailand. Doubles with attached Bathroom from 160 Baht/40000 Kip. Clean and good value.
- Oudomphone Guesthouse 2 has double-bed rooms with spotlessly clean floors and hot-water showers from USD10/night. It's a 3-minute walk north of the BAP guesthouse, on the right-hand side of the road. There is a good, cheap restaurant and a small convenience/souvenir store on the premises.
- Sabaydee Guest House is opposite Oudomphone Guest House and is of a good standard. Rooms are 90000 Kip (December 2011).
Stay safe 
Houay Xai Rip Off to Pak Beng 
At the Houay Xai border crossing a tourist agent offers to help fill out visa forms and make arrangements for the slow boat and hotel in Pak Beng. However, he overcharges (asking 1,100 baht for the boat only) and does not really make the reservations he promises.In fact, although paying premium prices at this Houay Xai "Customs" office for a room in Pak Beng, rooms may have no windows and/or no water. There are many many guest houses in Pak Beng. Carry your own gear from the wharf and check out the rooms (and the water) before you commit.
Internet and phone 
There are now numerous "high-speed" Internet cafés in town. The going rate is 5000 kip for 20 minutes.
If you have a Thai SIM card and have activated some of their Internet packages you can use this service. The signals of all Thai GSM networks reach across the Mekong and the locals often use a Thai number phone number in preference to a Lao one. There are many offerings of the Lao telecoms for data SIMs as well. Lao Telecom (M phone) has one offer for 1GB costing 50'000 Kip that has to be used within a month.
Go next 
By boat 
- Long boat ferry across the river to Chiang Khong in Thailand is 10,000 Kip. The boat guys are among the most pleasant transport providers in Laos. Be nice to them so it continues.
- A two day (slow) boat ride to Luang Prabang. Arrive early to avoid being stuck in the engine room for the 8 hour ride. The official fare is announced at Immigration as being 70,000Kip but what you pay will depend on where you book:
- in Chiang Khong: 850 baht incl. transport to the ferry pier, ferry to Houay Xay and transport to the slow boat pier
- near the ferry pier in Houay Xay: 800 baht
- at the slow boat pier: 760 baht (depending on your bargaining skills)
- In Sep 2011, prices seems to be up: at the slow boat pier, Houay Xay - Luang Prabang is 220,000 Kip or 900 baht. In January 2012 the price from Luang Prabang was at least 250,000 kip (about € 25) which is still a bargain for one of the most scenic trips in the world.
- Speedboat to Luang Prabang. There seems to be a real reluctance to take foreigners on the speedboat. You sit there watching as speedboat after speedboat leaves without you on them. The phrases "come back tomorrow" and "just wait, wait", is repeated a lot. If you are in a hurry use your money to kick things into a higher gear and make demands that you leave. This is definitely not a means of transport to be relied on. It is a good idea to work out with your fellow boat passengers to remove the seat dividers in the fast boat which allow you more space to move around as long as you don't mind a bit of contact. It will be better than being jammed in one place for the whole trip. Keep in mind, recently the speed boats have been pulling a scam where you are dropped off 10km outside of Luang Prabang at a small bamboo dock. Refuse to get off here and force them to take you two minutes further down river to the Luang Prabang boat dock. If you are forced to get off before Luang Prabang the tuk-tuk driver may demand $15 or something equally ridiculous per person. Don't pay more than $5 for everyone in your party, but keep in mind this guy is your only ride into town.
- There's a local bus to Luang Prabang, US$14, 12-15 hours. The bus station is 7km from the town. However, if you buy the ticket at the bus station rather than through your guesthouse or agent then the price is 110000 kip (around $12US). You are told the journey is 10 hours but can turn out to be 15 hours or more, so be prepared. Buses leave 9 am, 2 pm and a VIP bus at 5pm (135000 kip).
- A special boat ride for Luang Namtha is also available for around 1,500,000 kip / 6000 baht for the whole charter and can carry between 6 - 10 people (the boat can carry less people in the end of the dry season , when the river is low).
By road 
- Buses to Luang Namtha leave in the morning 9:00AM and 12:30PM. The bus costs 60,000 kip if you get your ticket at the bus station. From BAP guest house for around 95,000 kip / 350 baht you can get a ticket which includes a 10 min tuk-tuk ride from the guest house. The journey is 198km and now takes 5-6 hours with one stop for lunch on the way. The road is now completely sealed (except for big sections in the middle which have been churned up by the trucks - this adds time to any journey). However, unexpected obstacles may still occur.
A VIP bus leaves at 5pm, for 90,000 kip from ticket agents in town, including tuk-tuk ride to the bus station. The ticket price is 75,000 kip at the bus station. It arrives in Luang Namtha around 9:30pm (including nearly an hour delayed start, so could be quicker).
- There is a direct bus to Jinghong in China at 8AM, 150,000 kip at the bus station.
- Bus to Muang Xay leaves at 8:30AM, 85,000 kip for the distance of 330km.
- Luang Prabang buses leave at 2:00PM (120,000 kip) and 5:00PM (145,000 kip since its a VIP bus); distance of 505km.
On the way to Luang Prabang, make a stop over at Hongsa in Sayaboury Province for an elephant ride. Elephant adventures  have 2-5 day elephant trekking on retrained logging elephants. These treks are supported by ElefantAsia NGO , focussed on elephant veterinary care, educational/environmental awareness and economic viability for mahouts.
- Vientiane one bus at 11:30AM, 230,000 kip to cover the 900km.