Kutaisi

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Kutaisi old town
Parliament of Georgia
Downtown Kutaisi

Kutaisi is a city in the Rioni Region of Georgia.

Understand[edit]

Kutaisi is the traditional rival of Tbilisi for capital status, and has since the days of the Golden Fleece been considered the capital of Western Georgia (then Ancient Colchis). It remains Georgia's second largest city, but to the irritation of the proud locals, does not come even close to Tbilisi's present day size and wealth. Since the Georgian government decided to move their parliament to Kutaisi, there has been a lot of work on restoring streets, buildings, parks and monuments and the city has become much safer. The seat of the state parliament was removed here a few years ago.

But a visit here is nonetheless near mandatory to see the magnificent Bagrati Cathedral, and Gelati Monastery, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and have commanding views from the mountain slopes over the city and the Rioni river.

Get in[edit]

By plane[edit]

The airport services domestic flights to Tbilisi, and international flights to Belarus, Lithuania, Poland, Russia and Ukraine, as well as occasional flights to Baghdad, Iraq on Iraqi Airways.

Transportation to the airport:

  • Georgian Bus provides shuttle bus service between the airport and Kutaisi city center, Tbilisi and Batumi, with bus schedules following flight arrivals. Shuttle buses to Tbilisi (20 GEL, four hours) terminate at Freedom Square, while shuttle buses to Batumi (18 GEL, three hours) terminate at the Radisson Blu Hotel. Shuttle buses to Kutaisi city center (5 GEL) will stop at any address within the city. Tickets may be purchased online or upon arrival at the Georgian Bus counter located near the exit, and when returning to the airport, may also be purchased directly from the driver. Be advised that if you're riding the Georgian Bus service from Kutaisi, you must e-mail them with the name of the hotel from which you will be picked up from.
  • Marshrutkas from points west headed towards Batumi or Samtredia, or from points east towards Kutaisi or Tbilisi, will also drop passengers off at the airport, which is convenient for passengers who have missed the Georgian Bus service to the airport. From Tbilisi, a marshrutka from the Didube bus terminal to the airport is 20 GEL. It is also possible to walk out of the airport onto the highway and hail a marshrutka if headed to a particular destination.

By train[edit]

  •    Kutaisi ITamar Mepe St.
  •    Kutaisi II station (southwest. From this station getting a cab is an option, 5 GEL all over town). Train from Skaltubo are running to Kutaisi II station.
  •    Rioni stationKutaisi-Baghdati-Abastumani-Benara Road (7.3km south of Kutaisi.). There are more night and day trains running to Tbilisi Central from here

All trains from and to Tbilisi Central leave from and arrive at the modernized Kutaisi I station. There are three daily departures to the capital. All Georgia Rail Timetable A ticket with reserved seat costs (passport required for purchase) minimum 5 GEL. Also stops in Mtskheta (old capital of Georgia), Gori (birthplace of Stalin) and Zestafoni. Nice journey but slow due to long intermediate stops.

A local, but "fast" train runs from Kutaisi I to Batumi (listed Makhinjauri in the timetable — the name of the station about 8 km north of Batumi), leaving at 9:00, arriving 3 hours later. Cost 4 GEL, payable on the train.

Trains to Borjomi leave every day (2 Gel, 4.5 h, from Central Railway Station). Trains to Kharagauli leave every day. (4-10 GEL, 3.5 h, from Central Railway Station)

By bus[edit]

  •    Bus station (From the bus station (southwest of town) to go to the city center: cross the road, and take bus #1 that goes directly to the city center. Cost: 0.30 Lari.).

Mini-buses ('marshrutkas') and full 54-passenger buses depart regularly for Kutaisi from 'Didube Bus Station' located at the Didube metro stop in Tbilisi. Marshrutkas (hourly, 3.5 hours, 10 lari); large buses (every three hours, 4 hours).

Minibuses to Borjomi leave every day, every hour (8 Gel, 2 hr). Minibuses to Kharagauli leave every day, twice a day (10 GEL, 3.5 h).

By car[edit]

Get around[edit]

The interesting parts of the town are walkable. To visit the monasteries in the mountains nearby booking a day-tour may be a time-saving option.

Local marshrutkas ply the city.

See[edit]

Bagrati Cathedral
White bridge
  •    Bagrati Cathedral (UNESCO World heritage site)Leselidze street (Towering above the town, just walk up the hill.). Ancient church originally built in the 11th century. Foundations of an earlier building have been found. Blown up by marauding Islamic invaders in the 18th century, then carefully restored over the last 100 years, the interior also almost completed. The difference between original and replacement is clearly obvious. The ongoing reconstruction aimed at returning Bagrati Cathedral back to its original state as a religious space has led ICOMOS to recommend that it should be left as a ruin and added to the list of UNESCO Heritage Sites in danger. Free admission.
  •    Uqimerioni Fortress (adjacent to Bagrati Cathedral, 50 meters behind it).
  •    SynagogueBoris Gaponov Street.
  •    St. Thekla churchDaniel Chonkadze St.
  •    St Elijah the prophet church.Chekhovi Street I.
  •    St. Cyprian and Justina churchDavid Agmashenebeli Ave,.
  • White Bridge over the river Rioni, known by the bridge Springer scene in the movie "Neobyknovennaja Vystavka"
  •    Parliament of GeorgiaIrakli Abashidze St (in the west of the city on the main road to Tskaltubo). Completed in 2012. It was one of the most prestigious projects of President Mikheil Saakashvili to relocate the parliament from Tbilisi to Kutaisi. However, the relocation of Parliament is cancelled by the new government Ivanishvili. In what way this new 50 million-euro building will be used is still unclear.

Museums[edit]

  •    Small Local History museumRustaveli Ave. and Tesereteli St. corner. 10:00-18:00. with English signs like "pottery shreds" offering very little in-depth information 3 Lari.
  • Kutaisi Museum of Sport.
  • Kutaisi Museum of Martial Art.
  • Museum of Zakaria Paliashvili.
  • David Kakabadze Fine Art Gallery8 Shota Rustaveli Street. Houses collections of the 19th and 20th century artists

Further afield[edit]

Gelati Monastery
Geguti Palace
  •    Gelati Monastery (გელათის მონასტერი)7, Nazarishvili str. (NW 11 km of Kutaisi. There is a minibus going to the monastery departing from Kutaisi's Opera Thater, costs 1 GEL, leaves at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00 and going back 30 minutes later. Alternatively get to the turn to Gelati monastery on the Kutaisi-Tbilisi road by train or bus and walk for 2 km from there uphill).
  •    Motsameta Monastery (მოწამეთა) (NW 6 km of Kutaisi. Get to the turn to Gelati monastery on the Kutaisi-Tbilisi road, "Kutaisi-Gelati" minibus passes it. Besides, Motsameta is about 5km from Gelati Monastery (which is about 1 hr walk following the road)). XI century monastery richly decorated with frescoes.
  •    Geguti PalaceGeguti village (S 15 km). One of the few secular monuments of the medieval Georgian kingdom, located on the banks of the River Rioni.. It is well preserved and developed for tourism. It's not protected anyhow and thus it's free to enter.
  •    Vani archaeological site (ვანი) (41 km southwest in Imereti region). one of the most important cities of antique Colchi, from VIII-VI century B.C. have been discovered. The city was destroyed in I century A.D.
  •    Sataplia Nature Reserve (SW 10 km). Three main attractions of the reserve - a pavilion with well-preserved dinosaur tracks, karst cave and glass balcony - an observation deck on top of the mountain Sataplia (highest point of the reserve).
  •    Prometheus Cave (პრომეთე მღვიმე), located in village Kumistavi (Minibus from Kutaisi central bus terminal, Tskaltubo overpass and adjacent area of Red bridge to Tskaltubo leave every day, several times a day (1 Gel, 30 min) further Minibus N42 from Tskaltubo central market to Prometheus cave leaves every day except Monday (1 GEL, 20 min)). One of Georgia’s longest natural caves, with fabulous stalactites and stalagmites and underground lake. Overnight option: Hotel Spa Kurorti23 Rustaveli Street, Tskaltubo +995 599 563115. 59 comfortable rooms for 118 people. 60 GEL per night,inc. breakfast.

Do[edit]

  •    Torpedo Kutaisi F.C. (Givi Kiladze Stadium), Giorgi Brtskinavale. See the local football team in a match at the Givi Kiladze Stadium. 2 GEL.
  • Do as the locals do: Sit in the city centre park and watch the world pass by.

Theatres[edit]

Parks[edit]

  •    Botanical Garden "Kolchuri" (in the north of the city on the main road towards Zageri). Rather small but still nice botanical garden. Some trees has signs in English. There is also interesting chapel built inside the tree. 3 GEL.
  •    Park of Culture and Rest (Besik Gabashvili Park), Vazha Pashavela St.
  •    Central Garden (ქუთაისის ბულვარი, ბაღის კიდე), Rustaveli Avenue.
  •    Kharazov ParkSolomon Pirveli Street.
  •    Youth Park (Pionerta Park), Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Rd..
  •    Kikvidze ParkZviad Gamsakhurdia St.

Buy[edit]

  •    Bazaaroff Zakhira Paliashvili (Paliashvili V Aly) St. the main drag
  •    Regular storesalong Tsereteli St..

Eat[edit]

Kutaisi has quite a big number of decent restaurants despite how poorly the city looks itself. They are mainly located in the city center but a bit spreaded so just walk around to find what you're looking for.

  •    Sudarushka (სუდარუშკა, Сударушка), Clinda Nino st. No. 13 970 93 93 98. 09:00 - 02:00. Authentic Russian cuisine from the owners who know how to cook it right. Food tastes good, big portions, nice personal, Russian music as an accompaniment. Note this place doesn't have English sign on the entrance so just look for a wooden sign (saying სუდარუშკა Сударушка) or a window with a Russian girl in a national costume in it. 3-8 GEL per meal.
  •    Chinese Restaurant. Newly opened place in 2014 with true Chinese cuisine. Owners are obviously Chinese. Offer huge variety of national dishes. It's a bit pricey, however tea comes for free. It's a big surprise to find it in Kutaisi. 10-30 GEL.

Drink[edit]

Sleep[edit]

Budget[edit]

  •    Hostel Kutaisi14 Solomon I (Solomon Pirveli St) Street (next to main square in the historical part of the city),  +995 431 253873, +995 551 471100 (mobile), e-mail: . In the hostel Kutaisi you will be served by experienced people (English spoken). Amenities include free Wi-Fi, internet, linen, towels, shampoo, coffee, tea, cable TV, maps, different guide books, advice about Kutaisi and Georgia in general. 20 to 30 GEL per night.
  • Suliko's Homestay (Turn off between no. 86 and 88 Tbilisi St. Coming from the main bus station [= "Kutaisi 2" Railway] take a cab, well worth the 5 L. fare. From "Kutaisi 1" walk out of the station to the right to main town squre, then 6-7 min up the hill along Tbilisi St. (Marshutka 4 and 19 pass nearby)(number 6, green fence).),  +8 231 43007. Run by a retired couple, a large room of their house serves as a dorm, two smaller private rooms are available. Theoretically one may stay to sleep only, alas one is very likely to be treated to the excellent fare the lady of the house serves up as well as the homemade wine the husband produces. I.e. if they like you, you are likely to be treated to one of those infamous Georgian welcomes, heavy on your liver ... They will give you as much chacha, Georgian wine and Georgian food as you can handle. The food is all hand-made and freshly prepared. It is amazing, the hospitality is unparalleled and only the modesty of the facilities leaves anything to be desired. The beds are clean and the house is good by local standards, and the new bathroom should be completed by summer 2011 in this friendly homestay. Free Internet is available, and there is a computer available for use. between 20 and 30 GEL per night.
  • Gelati Guest House (საოჯახო სასტუმრო „გელათი“), 26 May Street, (Vtoraya Liniya 4), Second Turn. +995 597 986222. 5 rooms / 12 people. inc. breakfast 35 GEL. (2013?).
  • Guesthouse Zelimkhani +995 431 222441. 14 comfortable rooms for 28 people. 50 GEL per night inc. breakfast.
  • Guesthouse Beka26 Debi Ishkhnelebi Street +995 431 246923. 16 comfortable rooms for 30 people. 40 GEL incl. breakfast.
  • Guesthouse Gora22 Debi Ishkhnelebi Street +995 431 252170, +995 599 574625. 43 comfortable rooms for 100 people. 40 GEL incl. breakfast.

Mid-range[edit]

  •    Hotel OazisMari Brosse St. (behind the large round theatre in the city centre). Small hotel in the center. Clean, cozy rooms with narrow beds; wifi, A/C, heating. One of the few budget options in central Kutaisi.
  • Hotel TirifiZviad Gamsakhurdia St, T.+995 592 961515.
  • Hotel Rcheuli Palace21b Gr. Khandzteli St +995 431 292900. 28 comfortable rooms / 50 people. 115 GEL inc. breakfast.
  • Hotel Imperiali (სასტუმრო „იმპერიალი“), 28 Mchedlidze St +995 579 191939. 9 comfortable rooms / 18 people. 100 GEL.
  • Hotel Aieti’s Sasakhle (ასტუმრო „აიეტის სასახლე“. Aeetes Palace), 34 G. Tabidze St. +995 431 253533. 13 rooms / 26 people 100 GEL.
  • Hotel Dzveli Kalaki3/4 Ioseb Grishashvili St. +995 431 251451, +995 599 51 60 56. 10 rooms for 24 people. 100 GEL incl. breakfast.
  • Hotel Bagrati2a Tsereteli St +995 431 25 55 55. 16 comfortable rooms with a maximum capacity of 32 people. 140 GEL incl. breakfast.

Splurge[edit]

Connect[edit]

The tourist office kiosk between the two main bridges is staffed during the summer season only. Rest of the year a photocopied map, and not much else, can be obtained at the ground level of the near-by city hall. Dingy post office on Tamar Mepe St. Previously existing Internet cafés have closed due to numerous freely available hotspots.

Go next[edit]

  • Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park (for details see Borjomi) — the largest national park in Georgia. The diversity of physical, geographical and especially climatical conditions of its has shaped the wealth and variety of its flora and fauna. Apart from the largely untouched nature of Borjom-Kharagauli, there are numerous cultural monuments. In particular, there are two easily accessible churches, built in 9th century. At present eight tourist trails are officially operating in the national park. They vary in length, duration and complexity. Open from Apr until October
  • Mestia — the "capital" of Svaneti and a UNESCO World Heritage site
  • Oni — a very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni River up in the mountains that was for millennia a center of Georgian Jewish culture. Today it is becoming a major tourist destination for domestic travelers as well as attracting adventurous foreign travelers attracted to its natural beauty, remote setting and a local culture that has not seen the effects of tourism yet
  • Tbilisi — the beautiful and interesting capital, Georgia's largest and most cosmopolitan city
  • Zugdidi — not very popular city with tourists for itself, however many of them pass through it on their way up to Mestia in Svaneti
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