Luang Prabang

Wat Sen, Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang (ຫຼວງພຣະບາງ), also Luang Phabang, Luang Phrabang and Louang Phrabang is the former capital of Laos and a UNESCO World Heritage city.

Understand

Set at the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the town, and beneath a temple-topped hill, Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture - reminders of when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochine. Golden-roofed wats (temples), decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha, sit under the gaze of wrap-around teak balconies and 19th century shuttered windows. All of this is set against a backdrop of verdant greenery and rugged mountains.

One of those small cities with atmospheric and charming personalities, Luang Prabang is now in the radar of most tourists who have been or dream of going to Venice (the mother of all atmospheric cities with charming personalities), Salzburg, Dubrovnik, Ubod, Hoi An, Cuzco, San Miguel Allende, Guanajuato, Puebla, Morelia, Oaxaca, Napier or Santa Barbara in California.

As a visitor, you cannot help but be amazed by the tidiness and cleanliness of perhaps the most charming city in all of Southeast Asia. With UNESCO so closely involved and a largely responsible group of local business owners, the pressures of mass tourism development have been held at bay, but for how much longer remains to be seen. Restaurants in the main street cater for luxury tourists. More typical Lao venues can still be found along the Mekong.

History

Luang Prabang rose to prominence as the capital of the first Lao kingdom (Lan Xang - land of the million elephants) from 1353 onwards. The city owes its present name to the Pha Bang, a revered Buddha image (now in the Royal Palace Museum) which was brought to the city by King Visoun during the golden age of Lan Xang in the early 1500s.

The fragmentation of the Lao kingdom at the end of the 16th century saw Luang Prabang become a militarily weak independent city state paying tribute to the surrounding kingdoms. Ultimately the 1887 sacking of the city by the Chinese Haw led the Luang Prabang monarchy to accept the protection of the French, whose influence led to the construction of the many fine colonial villas that sit harmoniously alongside the traditional Lao architecture.

The city fell into decline in the latter half of the 20th century following the reluctant withdrawal of the French, and the 1975 revolution which brought an end to the Luang Prabang monarchy. The relative poverty of newly-independent Laos perhaps helped save Luang Prabang from the ravages of 20th century city planning.

Haw Kam, Luang Prabang

The reopening of Laos to tourism in 1989 resulted in a remarkable turnaround in the city's fortunes, as crumbling timber houses and colonial mansions were sensitively restored and transformed into immaculate guesthouses and boutique hotels. In 1995 the city was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Get in

By plane

The airport is just north of town and has scheduled flights from/to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Jinghong, Pakse, Siem Reap and Vientiane.

• Bangkok Airways [1] offer flights from/to Bangkok.

• Laos Airlines [2] offers flights from/to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Jinghong, Pakse and Vientiane.

• Vietnam Airlines [3] offers flights from/to Hanoi and Siem Reap. Vietnam Airlines' pricing scheme is somewhat questionable, with tourists paying higher prices on last-minute tickets.

Visa-on-Arrival is available at the airport, costing US$35 for citizens of most Western countries as of January 2013, but slightly higher for developing nations. In any case, bring along an extra $1 for the processing fee on top of this for hassle-free payment. You need a passport picture to obtain a visa. If you don't have one, they'll scan your picture from your passport and charge you an additional dollar.

ASEAN nationals do not need a visa to enter Laos for stays not exceeding 30 days.

Visa extensions are possible at the Immigration Office opposite the Rama Hotel. The cost is $2/day plus a $2 form fee. The process is very easy; turn up in the morning with your passport and one photo; fill in a form (in Luang Prabang they do this for you) and come back in the afternoon for your extension.

Exchange rates at the airport are reasonably competitive with the prevailing outside rates unlike in other international airports.

Taxis into town cost about US$6, whether you are by yourself or with 3 other people. There is a taxi counter just outside the arrival hall.

By road

Hwy 13 connects Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and Vientiane in the south and via Hwy 1 to the north. Hwy 13 is sealed and in relatively good shape during dry season all the way to Vientiane. Simply put, it is long bumpy and winding road trip. The road smacks of a lunar landscape and there are countless potholes due to poor quality grade surface, the top layer eroded to reveal the gravelly underlayer, which means a really bumpy ride. Though there have been incidents of violence along this stretch of road in the past, presently it is safe.

There are three bus stations, each a little bit out of town, which serve different directions. Tuk-tuk drivers know which bus station to go to for which destination. Ask around for bus schedules.

Tickets can be bought at every travel agent in town, which makes more sense than buying them at the bus station as there is only a difference of roughly 20,000 kip, which pays for the tuk-tuk from your accommodation to the bus station. Pick those agencies which absorb the shuttle ride from the fare quote as others do not. Compare quotes before booking. Book tickets in advance, particularly for VIP buses as they have reserved seats. You don't want to end up sitting next to the toilet.

• Chiang Mai - this bus direct to Chiang Mai costs 1,200 baht one-way. The journey is via Udomxai and Luang Nam Tha before being transported across the Mekong by boat and continuing on to Chiang Mai. Total journey time is 18 hours. Beginning in 2013, the bus will use the new Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge from Huay Xai to Chiang Kong and the fare will increase to 1,500 baht.

• Vang Vieng - the air conditioned VIP bus costs approximately 150,000 kip, the same price as the Vientiane bus. Minibuses leave from Vang Vieng at 09:00 and cost 100,000 kip. The minibus station is just north of town. The trip takes 6-7 hours (not the 5 that travel agents advertise). Rte 13, along which the bus travels, passes through the mountains and twists and turns uncomfortably for most of the journey. This is not a trip to make on a full stomach or if you are feeling queasy.

• Vientiane - air-con VIP with reclining seats costs 150,000 kip while an air-con VIP sleeper bus costs 165,000 kip if booked through an agent. Express buses (no air-con) bought at the station are 110,000 kip. Tickets purchased in Vientiane to Luang Prabang are more expensive than those purchased in Luang Prabang.

The bus follows via Rte 13 south is a relentless bumpy ride because the road is curvy and potholed. Comparing pluses and minuses for VIP sleeper/VIP seats to Express for night trips, not much difference. If taking the trip at night, there is no need for air-con and one can not sleep on this ride so it's useless to take a sleeper bus due to the rocking and rolling. Those prone to motion sickness should know that this trip travels a winding, mountainous road.

• Muang Xay - takes about 5 hours. Costs 40,000 kip and points onwards, such as Luang Namtha, are travelled by public minibus only. Big backpacks are carried on the roof. Reservations are usually not necessary. Just take care to go early in order to secure a good seat.

• Luang Namtha - takes 8-9 hours and costs 90,000 kip. Parts of the road leading from Oudomxay (intermediate stop between Luang Prabang and Luang Namtha) are still under construction and are quite bumpy. Direct local bus via Muang Xay at 09:00. Otherwise take a bus to Muang Xay and switch there.

• Nong Khiaw - 3 hours away by public bus from the Northern Bus Station or 8-10 hrs by boat for about 110,000 kip. From there boats connect to scenic Muang Ngoi Neua.

• Huay Xai - up to 15 hours away. Public buses leave at 09:00 (arrive 24:00) or 17:00 (arrive 08:00. A normal sleeping bus, not a sleeper). Costs 135,000 kip. VIP buses leave on alternating days, tickets purchased at the Northern Bus Station will cost 35,000 kip, less than if purchased at an agent in town.

• Phonsavan - bus takes about 8 hours and costs 100,000 kip leaves Southern Bus Station around 08:00. Minibus takes around 6 hours and leaves at 09:00a You should be able to buy your ticket at your guesthouse and arrange to be picked up and taken to the minibus station. You can stay on the minibus until it unloads the local people in the centre of Luang Prabang though tuk-tuk drivers may try to make you get off earlier at the bus station.

BanNaluang Bus Station (South Bus Station)

To	Departs hours	Approximate Price (Kip)	Duration (Hours)	Comments	Last update
Sainyabuli	09:00, 14:00	60,000 kip	5 hr	Bring a dust mask!	Jun 2011
Phonsavan (Local)	08:30	80,000 kip			Jun 2011
Phonsavan (A/C)	08:30	95,000 kip			Jun 2011
Phonsavan (VIP)	08:30	105,000 kip			Jun 2011
Vang Vieng (A/C)	09:30	90,000 kip	6-7 hr		Jun 2011
Vang Vieng (VIP)	09:30	105,000 kip			Jun 2011
Vientiane (Local)	06:30, 08:30, 11:00, 14:00, 16:30, 17:00, 18:30	110,000 kip			Jun 2011
Vientiane (VIP)	08:00, 09:00, 19:30, 20:30	130,000 kip			Jun 2011
Vinh (Vietnam)	W and Sa - 18:30	200,000 kip			Jun 2011
Hanoi (Vietnam)	Daily except Th - 18:00	360,000 kip	24 hr		May 2012

By boat

Boats ply the Mekong to and from Huay Xai at the Thai border, stopping in Pakbeng where you can catch overland connections towards the northeast and the border with China. The trip takes 2 days (both days about 9 hours) by slow boat, or 6 bone-rattling hours by speedboat. There are also operators now offering 2-day "luxury" cruises.

Expect to spend the night in Pakbeng if you're taking a slow boat (the safest option), or to arrive in Luang Prabang deaf, shaken and either exhausted or exhilarated from six hours in a speedboat. There is also a twice-weekly "one day comfortable boat" between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, but the cost is significantly higher.

Slow boats leave every day, the last one at 11:00. The trip from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai costs at least 250,000 kip (January 2012), the trip to Luang Prabang from Huay Xai costs 900 baht (Sep 2011). The slow boat leaves Luang Prabang at about 08:30, from the middle of the town, and arrives around 18:00 at Pak beng.

In Huay Xai it's best to take a quick tuk-tuk from the border crossing to the boat landing (or about 15 min walk) and purchase your tickets at the boat landing because all the tour agencies in town charge a commission, and agents usually don't have reliable information about the quality of the boats. It is common to have to switch to a different boat in Pakbeng, so you may end up in a boat of higher or lower quality for the second half of the journey. The two day boats have nice comfortable (car) seats and it is no longer necessary to purchase any cushions.

The slow boat is generally packed, so much so that there may not enough seats to go round. Arriving early will mean a longer day, but most likely a better seat, towards the front and away from the engine.

The slow boat trip proceeds in a pleasant 20-30 km/h and offers nice views of nature and village life on the banks of the Mekong. Most of the passengers are foreign tourists. Occasional locals take the boat only for short hops between the riverside villages, but prefer to take the bus for the full distance from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. So you won't be able to observe any local boat travellers, as the boat ride offers just the usual sight of tourists drinking Beerlao.

If you choose to travel on the speedboat (a light canoe with a very powerful engine), a crash helmet and life-jacket should be provided - it is not recommended to travel in a speedboat without this essential safety equipment. It is also recommended that you make your bags as waterproof/water-resistant as possible and wear a rain jacket - the boat can generate quite a bit of spray, plus any showers you might encounter along the way will sting like needles against any exposed skin. On sunny days, sunscreen is invaluable as there is no roof/shade on these speed machines. The journey to Huay Xai can be reduced to as few as 4 hours in the wet season, with a lunch stop at Pakbeng. However, some consider this means of transportation less safe, especially in the dry season. Earplugs are strongly recommended. Travellers who are concerned about creating as little environmental impact as possible may want avoid speedboats, as they are heavier polluters than the slower options. Travel agents in LP will sell the tickets for 320-370,000 kip, you will need a minivan to take you the 10 km north to the fast boat pier.

The third option is to take a luxury cruise. The major operators are Luang Say [4], Nagi of Mekong [5], and Shompoo. As of 2009, both operate two-day cruises to Hauy Xai that stop in Pakbeng for the night. Although the journey takes as long as taking the slow boat, these operators offer vastly superior facilities and equipment than public slow boats, and you should be prepared to pay a premium for it. Tickets for all operators can be bought at most travel agents in town.

As per November 2011 the prices are approx. 220K for a slowboat, 280K for a speedboat. 3,000K for Luang Say, 1,200K for Nagi of Mekonand (both including a night in a hotel) and 640K for Shompoo. Some travelers are reporting that prices of Luang Say and Nagi of Mekong can be bargained down.

There is no public boat service to Vientiane, but it may be possible to do the trip by private tourist boat when the water levels are high enough. Read more about fast and slow boats in the Laos country guide.

See

Photo of Alms Ceremony, Th. Sisavangvong, Luang Prabang, taken from across street in early May 2011 - illustrating tourists behaving inappropriately at 6am monks' pageant

Local landmarks and culture

• Alms ceremony — monks at dawn collecting alms of rice from kneeling villagers (and early-rising tourists). Ask your guesthouse host to assist you the day before in preparing if you'd like to get up and give alms in the morning. Please note that the alms giving ceremony is one which, while picturesque, is not without its detractors. Unscrupulous local merchants have used the eagerness of tourists to participate in a local tradition as a means of making easy money, and sometimes sell unsuitable, stale and even unsafe food. This has resulted in monks falling ill after having consumed the offerings, and resistance to continuing the tradition. However, the government has made it clear that the monks have to continue the tourist pageant or risk being replaced with lay people clothed in saffron robes in order to keep up appearances, and thereby maintain tourist revenue. So if you wish to participate in this ceremony, prepare the food or fruit yourself, and avoid giving food of unknown quality. Another problem is the photographing. While it looks nice on your collection, think about how it must feel for the monks to have hundreds of tourists photographing them every day. Some lowlifes even stand right next to them, flashing them in the eyes! Strongly consider only watching this old tradition from a distance instead of using it as a tourist attraction, as this may detract from the beauty of the ritual - both for locals and tourists alike. You can always download a picture of it somewhere on the net for your collection.

• Haw Kham — the former royal palace and now national museum, 30,000 Kip, no photo/video/bag/shoes allowed, free locker. Open 08:00-11:30 and 13:30-16:00 every day except Tuesday. There's also sometimes local drama or dance performances in the adjacent theatre. In August 2011 for examnple, each Mo/We/Fr/Sa, there was a performance at 6:30PM of "Search of Princess Sida", a royal ballet, with prices from 80,000 to 150,000 kip. It is important to check the timings and plan the visit accordingly.

• Phou Si — the main hill in the city from which you have a good view of the whole area. It's not a very steep climb from the bottom and sunrise and sunset are the most sensible and rewarding times to go up. There is a near-panoramic view from the top. Entrance fee 20,000 kip.

• Sunset on the waterfront — take a walk along the Mekong, or sit and enjoy dinner at one of the many restaurants and watch the sun sink into the horizon.

• Vat Xieng Toung — the oldest monastery in town and one of the most beautiful. Open 06:00-18:00. Entry fee 20,000 kip. One entrance on the road along Mekong river, the other on the by-lane off the main road.

• Vipassana temple and park — this golden temple, highly visible from Phou Si, is a shrine for Buddhists who practice Vipassana meditation.

Out of town

• Bear Rescue Centre — located adjacent to the way to the Kuang Si Waterfalls, the Bear Rescue Centre has a enclosure for endangered Asiatic Black Bears that have been rescued from poachers.

Kuang Si Falls, Luang Prabang

• Kuang Si Falls — a large multi-stage waterfall, accessible by boat or truck hire, some 29 km south of Luang Prabang. You can also rent a motorbike to transport yourself there. There are food and tourist stalls outside the waterfalls. It is worth putting a whole day aside (or more) for seeing these because they are a great place to relax and meet other travellers. There are multiple pools at different levels, all of which are reportedly safe to bathe in, and are extremely picturesque. Shared tuk tuks to go there charge about 30 to 50,000 Kip (cheapest seems to be near slow boat pier, though you can get them for 40,000 kip near JoMa Bakery). You may have to wait until the Tuk Tuk fills up. Tuk Tuks are legally only allowed to take six people, and there is a checkpoint at the falls - so some drivers may try to get a 7th person in the front seat. Private tuk tuk will cost you around 100 to 150,000 kip - after some haggling. A seat in a mini bus costs 40,000 kip, more if booked through travel agent. Entrance is 20,000 kip.

As of May, 2012, a private tuk-tuk can be rented for 150k; they don't seem to go lower. They will try to show you some documents that quote 200k or more depending on driver; just ignore it and insist. Try and go with 5 people and insist on 30k each. The driver should wait for 3-4 hours at the waterfall gate area and make sure your 150k includes both ways there and back. Bargain, bargain, bargain. Just remember that there are dozens of tuk-tuks around, so you have the advantage. Entrance fee is still 20k. if you lack companions, ask 30k and wait until he finds more people if you have the patience. The waterfall park area closes at 5:30.

• Tad Sae Waterfalls — step waterfalls which are not as big as Kuang Xi, but very beautiful. You can bathe there and elephant rides are available. Entrance is 15,000 kip and you have to river boat to reach the place.

• Pak Ou Caves — the famous "Buddha caves" are north of town on the Mekong and can be reached by road (approx 1 hr) or river boat (around 1.5 hrs). Alternatively, you can hire canoes and a guide for the day, which would allow you to view the beautiful scenery and visit the caves without throngs of other tourists. It's also possible to finish the trip at the 'whisky village' where the local Laolao (lao rice spirit) is made. There are two caves - one on the entry level and another - the upper caves - on top of the hill. A very steep climb, but worth the efforts. A candle or torch recommended to see the upper cave, as it is dark. Simply cross the river for for 3,000-5,000 kip, walk up the hill and turn to the right crossing the primary schools to find your way to the caves.

Arts and crafts

• The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre — this small but perfectly formed museum is dedicated to the ethnic cultures of Laos, find out more about the groups that make Laos so unique and enrich your visit to Luang Prabang. Sometimes closed for Exhibitions, so please check in advance.

• Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre — situated on the banks of the Mekong just 2 km south of Luang Prabang town, it offers an informative free tour to all visitors. Operating as a fairtrade traditional weaving centre you can take classes in bamboo / textile weaving, dye your own silk, draw your own batik or just relax at the Mekong garden cafe. Free Tuk Tuk departs daily from both Ock Pop Tok Shops in town: 10am - 12 noon - 2pm.

Do

• Lao Red Cross — A traditional Lao sauna and massage, very popular with locals in the afternoon. Th Wisunarat, in front of Wat Wisunalat. 1 hour massage 40,000 kip (open 9AM-9PM), sauna 10,000 kip (open 4PM-8PM).

• Rent a Motorbike — Although prices are astronomical by Southeast Asia standards ($US20-$25 per day as of Jan 2011), riding around the surrounding areas of Luang Prabang is a fantastic way to see the countryside. Fuel for the whole day will cost around 15,000 kip. As usual practice, they will keep your passport, so make sure they know when you leave and how to recover your passport.

• Fair Trek Project [6]. People who love activities and treks may find some interesting interactive tours which are designed to support villages outside of Luang Prabang, and in the north of Laos.

• Big Brother Mouse is a worthwhile organisation devoted to encouraging literacy in young adults and has premises off the main street, down a side street next to 3Nagas restaurant. Depending on sponsorship and volunteers, it welcomes tourists Mondays to Saturdays from 9AM-11AM to help with English conversation and reading practice. They publish and distribute books in Lao and English; consider buying some books to take as gifts to village children as you travel through Laos. They are also to be found in Vientiane.

• Lenou's Library is a great way to meet the local culture and experience the Laos village life without a tourbus. The owner started a library and children's english tutoring center in his house a few years ago and since has been steadily expanding services with help from some volunteers. Lenou sometimes organizes dinners on the NumOu river by request and generally seems to appreciate a helping hand. http://lenouslibrary.org/

Learn

Cooking classes

This is an enjoyable way to gain insights into Lao culinary methods and traditions. There are three substantial cooking class providers in town, all attached to popular restaurants, using Lao chefs/instructors. They differ somewhat in style and content, but all start with a tour of the local food market and include transport and copies of their recipes and other information about Lao cuisine. Participants sit down to eat their dishes afterwards.

• Tamnak Lao is situated in premises to the side of their main-street restaurant. They offer both day and evening courses (10am to 5pm, 250,000 kip, and 5:30 pm to 8:30 pm 200,000 kip). Contact details:[7], tel +856 71254670. For day class, there are 2 mandatory plus 5 optional dishes to choose from (choose only 3) for a total of 5 dishes plus demonstration only on how to cook sticky rice and Lao chili paste (very good). Variation is not much as 4 of the 7 dishes presented require eggs (standard class). Instruction is no-nonsense and very fast paced but Mr. Lee, the instructor, is very helpful if you need help. It starts with demonstration then hands on. All the dishes done are to be eaten, so be sure to bring along a cooking-eating partner.

• Tamarind: a taste of Laos has a restaurant along the Nam Khan river (since Jan 2011 moved to here), but you are taken to and from the rather lovely gardens by the water a short ride from town for their classes (9 am to 3:30 pm, 250,000 kip). Contact details: [8], tel +856(20)77770484.

• Tum Tum Cheng, whose restaurant and open kitchen is also on the main street towards the end of the peninsula, offers a half-day course for $US38. Classes have more of a demonstration orientation, with participants helping instructors with various tasks. Tel+856 71252019. All courses can be booked at the relevant restaurants.

Some of the hotels and guesthouses in town also offer small or private cooking classes for their guests.

Panorama of Luang Prabang. This view features the Nam Khan river on the left, and the Luang Prabang airport on the very far left

Farm Visit

• Living Land Farm offers a "Rice Experience" Tour, or you can just stop by this farm, which is right outside of town on the way to the waterfall. If you stop by without a tour, they will still show you around the farm, pointing out the organic vegetables and rice and showing you the old-school instruments they use to process rice. Contact details: [9].

Buy

Thai baht and US$ are widely accepted but the exchange rates vary. There are some ATMs accepting Visa, MasterCard, Maestro and Eurocards. These ATMs are situated mostly in Sisavangvong Rd just near the end of the Night Market. The ATMs dispense currency in Lao Kip and generally allow a maximum withdrawal of 1,000,000 kip with a charge of 20,000 kip. Multiple withdrawals are allowed to a daily maximum of 5,000,000 kip. If you arrive by plane, there is an ATM and a money changer at the airport which is open for a few hours of the day, so don't count on changing there. Also, their rates are significantly worse than the banks in town.

Money Changers/Exchange

For Malaysians, it is best to change money to baht, where the rate is RM 10 = 100 Baht or more, then change the baht to kip in laos. This is because they give not so good rates in laos for malaysian ringgit.

There are a number of money changers who generally do not offergood rates, and are located either on Sisavangvong Rd or in the permanent markets further East. One is next to the ATM near the Night Markets, another is about 50m further North along the street, located out the front of one of the first restaurants (looks like a little tollbooth/shack). The rates offered may vary, so shop around before you change. Better maybe to stick with official money changing services at a bank which are easily found. There are reports of scam by using money changers to take cash advance. They will charge you more in USD with different exchange rate than written, even after complaining it's not possible to cancel the transaction.

The night market (on Sisavangvong Road) caters for tourists with every kind of souvenir you could want and closes at about 10 PM. Particularly good are the duvet covers, cushion covers and pillow sets. They can even make one up to the dimensions you require in one next day. It is well worth a look and the hawkers are very pleasant to deal with and amazingly non-pushy by the standard elsewhere in Asia. Traders range from young children to the elderly who usually made crafts, arts and goods by themselves. Good-natured bargaining is advisable but don't obsess over this and ruin your experience as well as giving the trader a bad day. It should be understood that the quality and design of goods is lower in the market than in the legions of increasingly chic stores in the town. There may be some souvenirs available made from endangered animals. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea creatures (starfish, etc.), fur, feathers, teeth, wool and other products. This is the best place to buy lower end souvenirs and hone your bargaining skills.

Laotian asthetic sense is quite evolved in its own way. For instance check out some of the higher end stores:

• Ock Pop Tok, 73/5 Ban Vat Nong, Luang Prabang, plus 2 other stores in town, ☎ +856 71 253219. An ethical trading company with superb galleries. Also run classes and visits to village weaving faciltiies.

Books

Several book stores operating in and around the area that sell photocopies to unsuspecting travellers. It's worth checking copies as pages can be unreadable or even missing.

• Book Exchange – the Tamnak Lao Restaurant Book Exchange have a very good selection of books. The exchange operates on a “one for one” basis plus 20,000 kip, and all books are also available for purchase. All of the money raised by the book exchange goes to buying provisions for the Luang Prabang Government Orphanages and Ethnic High Schools [10]. It is located in the lane next to the restaurant.

During lunchbreak or siesta time which starts 12:00 to 13:30, the dry summer sun can be scorching. To spend time comfortably while waiting for the sun to mellow at around 15:30, hang around at the public library across the National Museum about 4 or 5 buildings down where the US-sponsored reading room is located. There are English language old newspapers issued months ago still in circulation. Or better still surf the net for free from the six Internet stations for the rest of the time.

Eat

There are no McDonald's restaurants nor any multi-national fast food outlets in Luang Prabang - or Laos, for that matter.

Restaurants line Sisavangvong Road and the roads along the Mekong and Nam Khan. Food runs the line from standard Southeast Asian backpacker fare to more traditional Lao dishes, including buffalo sausage right up to very high quality French cuisine.

There are also numerous market stalls for cheaper food, including baguettes, crepes, and pancakes. Stalls along an alleyway between the night market end of Sisavangvong Road and the Mekong offers superb Lao street food at bargain prices.

The much recommended street-food market located east of the Tourist Information building as posted in PBS Gourmet.com to be one of the must-see street food markets in Southeast Asia is quite disappointing though. A dozen or so buffet dishes per table-stall is offered at 10,000 kips per round of full plate on any selection. They are displayed in aluminum basins with no warmers and by the time it's 8:00 in the evening, the food is cold dead already. The taste is also bland, nothing outstanding or super noteworthy than any buffet offerings from other parts of the world. Plus one must contend with a barrage of flies. Basically, if one sees one table, one sees it all. Say, when one encounters the first table-stall with lots of dishes on aluminium basins, probably the fifth table from the corner of the entry lane, that's all what it is. Everything else beyond is repeated on the rest of stalls.

While the "buffet" tables is the cheaper way to eat, be wary of the hygiene. You'll never encounter fatter flies elsewhere in SE Asia. A bit more of an investment, but an excellently tasty alternative are the grilled fish, chicken legs and buffalo sausages just before the main "buffet" area. Delicious and worth every overcharged kip; even tastier if you are tired of fried rice from the dozens of "cafes" that have sprung up on every corner.

Do not pay more than 10k for a large Beerlao or 8k for the small dark lager version - pretty much standard throughout the country. Most riverside places offer the same prices for beer and generally the same foods. Prices of food can vary wildly, though. Shop around and don't be shy about asking prices directly if anything is unclear.

Probably the one most recommended to eat is the Lao version of fried spring roll - in vege at 3,000 kips or pork at 5,000 kips per piece.

Be careful of buying the bundles of dried seafood snack if you have the knack for it, the texture is like chewing salty paper.

Local specialities include:

• French baguettes and other bakery items. Extremely well done here.
• Local watercress which is very peppery.
• Fried dried seaweed with sesame seeds dipped in a chili sauce.
• Buffalo steaks and sausages.
• Luang Prabang Khao Soi - spicy clear mince and noodle soup which is very different from the Chiang Mai version

Cafes and restaurants

• Le Banneton (opposite Wat Sop, Sisavangvong Rd). Amazing, authentic French bread, tarts, pastries, and cakes. Their pain au chocolate is buttery and delicious!

• Big Tree Cafe. Consistently good Western and Korean food. Under the big tree on the Mekong River. Good service and free Wi-Fi.

• Blue Lagoon Restaurant (beside the national museum), ☎ 856 (71)25 36 98. Offers Luang Prabang-Lao dishes and Swiss classics as well as a variety of snacks and fresh salad.

• Boulevard Restaurant (behind JoMa Bakery). Al fresco restaurant at the New Daraphet Villa. For those wishing a quiet meal be warned the owner has recently brought in sound equipment and a new acoustic guitar for music enthusiasts to jam. The restaurant has 2 sides for both proper dining and casual drinking. Serves decent draft Tiger beer and a great atmosphere for meeting new friends from the guesthouses along the street.

• Eisgarten German Cafe (near the old bridge on Phommathat Rd near Ban Meuanna, opposite Visoun Namsok Hotel). Owned by a German couple, the cafe is a nondescript house with a tiny sign board. It is easy to miss but do look out for it. The homemade ice cream is absolutely divine at 10,000 kip per scoop. The apple cinnamon and coconut flavours are stand outs. Customers dine al fresco on their yard so bring adequate protection from mosquitoes particularly in the evenings.

• L'Elephant, around the corner from Saffron Cafe. A lovely restaurant with a mix of Lao and French foods. The food is extremely good, but has its price. Ingredients are of the highest quality, ranging from French camembert to Laotian lemongrass and river weeds. Be warned though that the menu is both pricey and some items do not justify their price tag. Great ambience.

• Hmong Night Market. 17:00-22:00. One food stall says vegetarian and the other "végétalien" (vegan). Approximately 5,000 kip for a plate. Popular with budget travellers, but not an option for those looking for tasty food. Cash only. Eat at your own risk as hygiene is questionable.

• The House (at the Nam Khan riverside of Mount Phousie, a few minutes away from main street and night market), ☎ +856(0)71.255.021, e-mail: thehouselaos@gmail.com. The only Belgian restaurant/bar in Luang Prabang. Excellent price/quality food. It has an appealing range of Belgian beer, cocktails, and wine. Known for its lasagna, stews, and curries. Recommended for vegetarians. A green bamboo garden with fairy lights confers a pleasant ambience. Attentive staff.

• Indochina Spirit. Excellent Lao and Thai food. Great value. Everything is tasty, but try the minced fish and aubergines. Has old, stuffy, and a not so pleasant odor at the interior tables, so be warned.

• Joma Bakery Cafe (near the post office at the end of the night market), ☎ 071-252-292. 07:00-21:00. The best cafe in Luang Prabang. Enjoy their original bagel egger (bagel, egg, ham, cheese, and mayo), oat French toast, the best reuben in SE Asia and best coffee in Laos. Free Wi-Fi, air-con on both floors and free full-menu delivery service from 07:00-19:30. Great music and very friendly staff. 8,000-43,000 kip.

• Lao Lao Garden. Attractively designed bar/restaurant notable for it's Lao-style barbeque. You cook meat on a barbecue mounted in the centre of the table. A backpacker favourite and busy in the evenings with loud club music. If you prefer to cook your barbecue in an atmosphere of quiet contemplation there are other BBQ options along the riverside.

• Un Petit Nid-Biblio Bistro. Very relaxing bistro serving excellent Lao and Western food in a nice atmosphere. Watch out for the kittens. Try the orlam with spicy wood. Good vegetarian menu.

• Riverloft Restaurant (down the road from Tamarind), ☎ 030 200 5228. Reasonably priced, high quality foods. Superb breakfast. Or for lunch or dinner you could do Lao with northern treats like "orlaam" or mok pa (steamed fish in banana leaf) or have a salad and sandwich. The amazing highlight is the 10,000 kip bottomless coffee cup which is true Lao Arabica unlike many other places that serve Nescafé. Free fast Wi-Fi. Fantastic place to hang out for an afternoon.

• Rosella Fusion Restaurant. Clean and well-cooked food. A small place (blink, and you'll miss it) that looks like a fruit shake place. Locally owned by Lao guy who trained at Amantaka Restaurant. Possibly the best steaks in town, certainly great cocktails. Slow service, but worth it!

• Saffron Caffè (around the corner from L'Elephant restaurant in Wat Nong village). The best coffee in Luang Prabang. It comes from the surrounding mountains. The banana shake macchiato is recommended. Delicious fresh baked goods such as their cinnamon swirls and banana muffins go quickly. Granola and salad wraps are good.

• Sala Café. Nice place with a view on the Nam Khan River. This restaurant-bar is an open air terrace where you can relax while trying homemade Vietnamese, French, and Lao specialities. Some think it expensive, but quality has a price. Try the chocolate brownie!

• Scandinavian Bakery. Quality Western breakfasts, burgers and pizzas. Food must be paid for before eating. Delicious Italian-style pizzas.

• Shakes & Crepes (in front of Croissant d'Or on the main street). A no name place serving delicious shakes for 5,000 kip and fantastic sweet crepes starting from 7,000 kip.

• Tamarind (on the bank of the Nam Khan River next door to Apsara). Specialises in introducing Western tourists to Lao food, so the dishes are offered with explanations and the menu is full of information. Traditional Lao food in sampler format. Platter combinations of dips, salads, etc., as well as set menus. Only a small wine list, but good range of fruit drinks. Popular cooking classes in a garden setting. Sells food products, recipe books, etc.

• Viewpoint café and restaurant, Mekong Riverside Rd, Xieng Thong Village (next to Mekong Riverview Hotel), ☎ +856 (0) 71 25 49 00, e-mail: viewpointcafe@mekongriverview.com. 07:00-23:00. High quality Lao and Western food.

Hydrating

Be sure to buy a small (or big depending on your needs) backpacking-sized plastic bottled water, and don't throw it away, then refill it as you go along from your hotel's/guesthouse's or tour agent's office water dispenser. They are ubiquitous and one should not consider water expenses in the budget.

If you can't find one along the backpacker's area, go to the lobby of the Phra Lang Phra Lao, a separate building besides the National Museum, beyond the huge King Sisavangvong statue, and re-supply. The water dispenser is at the righthand side at the far end of the corner from the entry door. There is also an available toilet with no charge. Or ask at any shop or agent.

Drink

There are a number of places to drink around Luang Prabang, though the late-night club scene is pretty much nonexistent. The liveliest and busiest bars are in a small cluster between Mount Phousi and the Nam Khong.

Luang Prabang's status means that curfews are strictly enforced here. Bars start winding down at 23:00 and close at 23:30 sharp. The only late-night options permitted are outside the main part of town: a discotheque patronised mostly by locals and bizarrely, a ten pin bowling alley.

If you do plan on staying out after hours, check the arrangements with your guesthouse first to avoid being locked out.

If you're simply looking to relax and enjoy the river views, most riverside restaurants have tables outside where you can sit back with a beer or two.

• Books and Tea L'Etranger - downstairs is a book shop/swap and upstairs is a bar selling drinks and cake in a room covered in cushions for lazing around and reading. Movies everyday at 19:00. A tad greedy and unfriendly on the book exchange business.

• The Bowling Alley on the edge of the town is the unlikely center for after-curfew revelry. Serves Beerlao and whisky well into the early hours of the morning to a raucous backpacker crowd, and also happens to be a bowling alley (20,000 kip per person per game after midnight). Even the addition of lanes doesn't seem to have dented the emphasis on drinking. This is invariably reached by crowds of people sharing tuk-tuks, which cluster around the bottom end of Phousi Rd around the time the bars close.

• Hive Bar, Phousi Rd.. closes 23:30 sharp. Established and highly popular watering hole, with cosy brick-lined rooms and an outside terrace. Notable for their ethnic fashion shows at 19:00 most days of the week and their range of Lao Lao cocktails.

• Lao Lao Garden and the adjacent Lao Lao Bar, Phousi Rd.. closes 23:30. Popular with the backpacker crowd - in addition to their acclaimed food, it is marketed as a place to "drink like a fish for the price of water".

• Mekong Sunset Beach Bar - The place to go to watch the sunset. Located at the river mouth of Nam Khan and Mekong, you have to cross the bamboo bridge behind Wat Xieng Thong and walk 3 min. Very simple but unbelievable. Floods in the wet season.

• Morning Glory Cafe - On the quiet end of the main street, after 3 Nagas. Run by a laid-back couple. Thai and Western food, Good wine, by the glass. Garden seating. Temple in front and street life can be seen.

• Utopia (by the Nam Khan River. Follow the signs from near the Hive Bar). 08:00-23:30. Aims to be a relaxing garden by day and tropical jungle lounge by night, when it fills up with backpackers. Gorgeous views along the Nam Khan River. Caters to backpackers wanting to chill, and other than the beer there is nothing Laotian about this place. Free Wi-Fi.

Sleep

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget	Under 120,000
Mid-range	120,000-400'000 kip
Splurge	Over 400,000 kip

Luang Prabang has the best selection of accommodation in Laos, with something to suit every budget. There is everything from tent sites under a roof for 20,000 Kip per night up to Super Luxury Hotel at US$1500 per night.

Don't expect though that the whole kit and kaboodle that you can find in Vietnam or Cambodia - aircon, cable TV, internet - can be found in LP for US$12.

While the big chains have yet to make an appearance, there's plenty of "boutique" accommodation, although this heavily overused word runs the gamut from quirky to luxury. Most of the lanes and alleys all through Luang Prabang have places to stay, with a large selection also found in the lanes south of the Post Office. Free WiFi is quite commonplace in Budget guesthouses.

Budget

• Chitlathda Guesthouse has two parts with decent clean doubles 40,000 kip (June 2012). Triple room 50,000 kip. Free Wi-Fi and water.

• Cold River Guesthouse. Run by a local family and you meet a lot of travellers. It's directly on the Khan River. Off peak times, it costs 80,000 kip. Free filtered water and bananas are available. On Saturdays they serve free home-cooked dinner.

• Halolao Backpackers, 222 Ban That Luang. Basic clean rooms with fan, cold and warm water, good window mosquito nets. Staff is friendly and helpful. Free coffee and tea in the morning. Free Wi-Fi in lobby and sometimes in rooms (bad coverage). Double room with bathroom for 100,000 kip per person. A bit hard to find, near to NamPhou, behind of Suvarnaphoum Hotel, in front of Muong Thong Hotel. If you come from main road Sisavangvong Rd, leading the way to Joma Coffee, passing by this coffee shop and then you will see Suvarnaphoum Hotel and Nam Phou, turn left into the second small street count from Suvarnaphoum Hotel main door, and you will see Halolao backpackers after a 2 min walk.

• LemonLaos (Formerly SpicyLaos) Not far from the main drag, LemonLaos is a bunk/dorm-style hostel with a very budget-minded backpacker clientele. 30,000 kip gets you a bed for the night, and there's free (if somewhat spotty) Wi-Fi. The building itself is an old-style two-storey affair, with old creaky wooden floors. There is a bank of lockers as well. Despite some apparent fallout between business partners (something to do with the SpicyThai hostel), this place is indeed alive and kicking, if not sadly a little neglected since a couple years back. Prepare to be awakened early by roosters and the staff/owners' screaming kids. A great place to meet some people and head out on the town if you're looking for community, anyone seeking anything more private or personal would do well to find something else.

• Levady Guesthouse In a lovely side street 50 m off the main street. Nice family, wooden rooms and floor, bike rentals, absolutely tidy. Double rooms with fan and private bathroom US$7, no Wi-Fi.

• Luang Prabang Backpackers Guesthouse, next to the Nam Khan river's motorcycle/bicycle bridge (a 10 min walk away from the bustle of the night market). It offers clean and comfortable dorm beds for 40,000 kip per person (includes free breakfast and coffee). The guesthouse is run by a nice local family who, if you're lucky, will provide you with delicious Lao BBQ and Lao whiskey now and then. Free Wi-Fi, cable TV, and filtered water.

• Mala Dressmaker & Guesthouse [11]. A traditional Lao-style home with has 3 upstairs rooms, all with self-contained baths and a new cheap room downstairs with a shared bath. Free Wi-Fi, drinking water, and regularly bananas or other fruit. Price is 50,000-120,000 kip per room. Washing, coffee, breakfast and bicycle rental. There is a dress shop in front where you can have clothes made, repaired, or modified. Close to the Mekong River and a short walk to the night markets. 2/16 Wat That Rd. email: chanm_ph@yahoo.com Ph: (+856-71) 254-859 and (+856-20) 5567 1180.

• Merry Guesthouse Rooms for US$3 with bath outside. Free filtered water and bananas are available. Not so merry though, the options further down the alley (Cold River and Sysomphone) are more appealing.

• Meunena Backpacker Hostel Just after the bridge which crosses to the old part of town, on your right. Dorms for 30,000 kip. Lockers, free Wi-Fi, Lao whisky, coffee, tea, and bananas. Ph: (+856-71) 260-851, email: -James pbounleua@hotmail.com

• Nur Aisyah Guesthouse [12] Run by a local and lodges up to 20 people. The place is clean, spacious and comfortable. However, there are house rules governing noise, fighting and bringing ladies into the rooms.

• Phasith Guesthouse One of Luang Prabang's best bargin places to stay at 80,000-120,000 kip (US$10-15) for a large room with air conditioning. Most comparable rooms in Luang Prabang go for over 200,000 kip (US$25) a night or more. All rooms are bright, airy, and have a balcony. Located right around the corner from Utopia Bar, Lao Lao, the Hive lounge Bar in the upscale nightlife area. Five min walk from the Night Market. Free Wi-Fi, free coffee/tea. Kola, the owner, is a nice man who speaks English well and is always glad to help guests.

• Sean Sa Ngop Guest House Basic double bed rooms with hot shower, fan, Sky tv, mosquito nets. Pass the school on your right side.(School near the Dara Market) then take the first right turn and walk down. Bounchaleurn Guest House on your right hand side (it's a landmark). 60,000 kip for the double room.

• Somjith Guesthouse, ☎ (856-71) 252 756; (856-20) 7777 4883, e-mail: somjithG_H@gmail.com. Clean room, attached, or shared bathroom, fan or air-con, free Wi-Fi (but a bit unreliable), laundry service 8,000 kip/kg. starts at 50,000 kip.

• Sysomphone Guesthouse [13] (+856-71) 252-543 Banvisoun 22/4 street, off Vatmou-Enna Rd. Have the Lao Development bank on your left, walk straight till the T-junction, turn right, then take the second left into the small street and Sysomphone is at the end. Has a good view of Nam Khan River behind the guesthouse and is around a 10 min walk to Sisavangvong Rd. Friendly and helpful family/owner. Free bananas, water, and Wi-Fi. Owner has good info, prepares a free dinner once a week for guests, has sticky rice if you stumble across dinner, collects traveller's photographs in an album, and shares things he knows about the Lao people or the country if you ask. Rooms with shared hot-water bathrooms 40,000-50,000 kip. A newer, cleaner building in the back has fresher rooms for 70,000 kip.

• VannaPhone Guest House 10 min away from the airport and about 4 min from the city. Ranging from US$10-15 (depending on what room you choose). Acceptably sized rooms with fairly small bathrooms. Noisy if you choose the rooms located close to the street but if you choose one of the new backrooms it is OK.

• Vong Champa Guesthouse. Centrally located in a small alley on the Mekong riverfront near the night market, cheap (double 80,000 kip), quiet, brand new and spotlessly clean.

• Vongphachanh Guesthouse, in a sidestreet off Wisunalat Rd near Wat Wisunalat. Nicely decorated clean rooms at a decent price, free Wi-Fi, pretty quiet.

• Xayana Guesthouse and X³ Capsule Hotel [14]. Guesthouse in a Lao-style villa in the protected zone. Dorms from US$4 or 30,000 kip, rooms from US$8. Clean dorms with bathroom/showers inside. Movies are shown in the evening. Extra services are quite expensive. (valuable storage in safety box for 20,000 kip, laundry service 18,000 kip. There are cheaper laundry services nearby though.)

Mid-range

• Bouakham Chanthasack Guesthouse. High-end guesthouse on the Mekong riverfront near the night market. All rooms have baths and air conditioning, clean and nice, double rooms for US$45.

• Hotel De Lyon, out of town near the airport, [15]. New 24-room hotel built in "Lao-colonial" style. Free airport and city shuttles. US$45-60.

• Jade Hotel, Phu Vao Rd, [16]. Modern hotel in an old protected Chinese-style building. Flat-screen TVs, free airport transfers. US$30-70.

• Manichan Guesthouse, [17]. Near the Night Market, centrally located, new and clean in green, peaceful environment. "Lao-colonial" style house with wooden floors and homey feel rooms. Private and shared baths with hot, separate showers. Free coffee corner. Has a balcony with city view. Belgian-Lao management. Low season: US$7–15, high season: US$12–30 (including breakfast buffet). Air-con an optional extra US$4.

• Merry Swiss Lao Near Mt. Phousi not on the main street side, but the other side. Room was US$40 one night and US$35 another. Rooms have private bath and air conditioning if needed.

• New Daraphet Villa, [18]. Traditional Lao villa in the heritage zone which has been turned into a boutique hotel. Large terraces and lots of flowers. Airport transfer included. US$30-60.

• Prasith Guest house. Local family-run guesthouse in a well kept restored old building. Located on Chaosisouphan Rd. Between Mt Phousi & Nam Kham River. Building faces back stairs/entrance of Mount Phousi. Central location. The nicely decorated clean rooms have en suite baths with either balconies or gardens attached. Free Wi-Fi, bottled water, bananas provided. Family is friendly and invites guests to join them when they make family trips to local attractions. Email - kolawy@hotmail.com. Tel - +856-71-260-420

• Rama Hotel A recently renovated higher-end guesthouse. Hot water shower and air con if you need it. US$30 includ a decent breakfast. This hotel was fairly quiet with a little bit of traffic noise until about 23:00.

• Sabaidee Guest House.[19], 70 Thammikarat Rd. There are lots of good guest houses along here this one is good value around US$25 for a double en suite room with breakfast included. There's a good laundrette just opposite the entrance.

• Soutikkone Guest House. Central location near the night market and an Indian restaurant. Large, clean rooms with a very hot shower, good Western-style toilet, and mosquito netting on the windows/door. Very nice wooden floorboards as well. The staff speak English. US$25.

• Tha Heua Me Guest House (city centre). Family guesthouse close to the main attractions. Each morning at dawn, the orange-dressed Buddhist monks walk just a few metres away from the terrace for the alms-giving ceremony.

• Thony 1 Guesthouse. This converted family villa located along the banks of the Nam Khan River. Only 10 min walk to the night market and historic centre. Address: Ban Visoun, Chao Chomphou Rd. (Just head for Wat Visoun Temple which is very close by. From the temple just look towards the Nam Khan River and you will see the guesthouse). US$22-$35. Rooms with riverview & family rooms available. E-mail: thony1@laotel.com Web: [20]

• Villa Kiengkham. Nice, clean, comfortable hotel with friendly staff. US$25. Near the Rama Hotel.

• Villa Meung Lao. Guesthouse in the city centre, close to the Royal Palace and the morning market. Rooms offer air-con,, television, Wi-Fi (unreliable) and free water. Doubles from US$25-30.

Splurge

• Amantaka. [21] Luxury resort of the Aman Group. Set on a large garden estate, Amantaka is housed in graceful French colonial buildings just south of Phousi Hill. Airy and elegant throughout, the décor and furnishings reflect the town's French colonial history. From US$650 per night.

• Ancient Luang Prabang.[22] On the doorstep of the night market, which is a mixed blessing. A nice, authentic view, but prepare for vendors packing up stalls at 01:00 with the windows being as soundproof as paper. Rooms not quite up to scratch for this price: no shower curtain and cleverly designed taps ensure a wet floor. However, clean and comfortable. Friendly staff and no cost for airport transfer.

• The Apsara , ☎ +856 71 254670, e-mail: info@theapsara.com. A quite wonderful hotel in a restored colonial building overlooking the Khan River on Kingkitsarath Rd. All rooms are decorated with local fabrics and furniture and very much in keeping with the hip and funky image of the hotel. Try to stay in the original building if you can. Superb French/asian restaurant in the lobby. US$75-120.

• The Grand. An atmospheric set of comfortable neo-colonial buildings on the site of Prince Phetsarath's old residence. Many rooms have idyllic views of both the Mekong River and the hotels gardens and ponds. Located around 4 km from town (a regular shuttle boat and bus service runs for guests), this hotel is enables guests to escape from the hum of the city. During the winter season, breakfast is served outdoors on a terrace with spectacular views of the Mekong River and the surrounding hills as they emerge from the morning mist.

• Kiridara [23] Beautiful hotel on the outskirts of town, with views overlooking Mt Phou Si and the hills surrounding Luang Prabang. The relatively large rooms offer very comfortable beds. The infinity swimming pool has great views, and sometimes masseuses from the spa will offer complimentary 5 minute massages to people lounging by the pool. The spa itself offers a range of massages and herbal steam baths. Small gym on-site. Double rooms starting from US$112.

• Lotus Villa , ☎ +856 71 255050, e-mail: reception@lotusvillalaos.com. A 15 room Laos-colonial villa in the quiet area of the UNESCO precinct. The clean rooms, decorated by local artisans, are centred around a lush tropical garden, includes breakfast and Internet/Wi-Fi. US$ 60 to 180.

• Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel An old palace transformed into a hotel, with the "Angsana Spa" within the hotel. Spacious rooms with great amenities. Each room with a balcony. Small but clean swimming pool, hearty breakfast, all staff know you by name as there are only 24 rooms. Within walking distance to all the attractions.

• Mekong River View. [24] A beautiful boutique hotel with personal touches, located on the tip of the peninsula, at the very end of the old town, in the UNESCO World Heritage Area. The view you have from the rooms and café/restaurant is the meeting of the Mekong River and Nam Khan River. The hotel is quiet and peaceful with the beautiful former Royal temple Wat Xienthong as your neighbour.

• La Residence Phou Vao.[25] This resort nestles amongst landscaped grounds and gardens, and has picturesque views over Phou Si and the World Heritage town. The property has a traditional Lao spa and a restaurant offering both indigenous and French cuisine. Regular shuttles are provided and boat trips arranged. An Orient Express Hotel.

• Santi Resort & Spa, Villa Santi Hotel & Resort, Sakkarine Road, PO Box 681, Luang Prabang, Laos, ☎ (856-71) 252157. This boutique hotel features 23 rooms and 2 suites, all decorated in a royal Laotian theme.

• Les 3 Nagas Hotel. Nice colonial hotel with 7 rooms on one side and 8 on the other. The restaurant is fairly cheap, but the rooms are rather overpriced. There are a few executive suites, the most costly coming with their own set of stairs. But beware: your nights may be troubled as there is a rooster that sings every morning at the hotel, at about 03:00. The attitude of the owner has put off some guests who report this in forums.

• Villa Maly. [26] Another Luxury Boutique Hotel in Luang Prabang. Villa Maly was a former Royal Residence. The property is a blend of traditional Laotian architecture with echoes of its French colonial past. Internet and Breakfast included. US$ 190-300.

• Villa Santi Resort - Villa-style resort, good restaurant, (unfortunately) terrible mosquito infested pool, massage and spa service.

• Villa Le TamTam, [27]. Superior guest house conveniently located in a quiet street just a minute walk from city centre. Excellent service and peaceful atmosphere. Full breakfast included. US$55-80.

Eco-friendly

• Kamu Lodge. [28] This lodge is situated in a remote location on the Mekong River north of Luang Prabang in an ethnic Kamu village. It offers a sustainable and socially responsible tourism concept.

Go next

• By boat on the Mekong to Huay Xai (slow boat 220,000 kip June 2012) and then cross to Chiang Khong in Thailand.
• Vang Vieng is the next stop on the backpacker circuit for many younger travellers.
• For a more serene experience, head north to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi Neua.
• Vientiane by long distance bus, costs about 145,000 Kip.
• Fly direct to Siem Reap in Cambodia, Hanoi in Vietnam, or Chiang Mai and Bangkok, Thailand.
• Hanoi by long distance bus (make sure you have the Vietnamese visa beforehand!), 360,000 Kip, 24 hours direct bus

You can buy the ticket to Hanoi from a tour agent, or you can walk to the Southern Bus Station (30 mins walk) and buy it yourself for cheaper. You shouldn't buy the ticket at the station itself, but opposite the station you'll see some buses waiting and there will be an office of the Naluang Travel Company. They are the ones that operate the buses, so if you buy anywhere else the ticket will be more expensive.

Also note that they claim to sell a ticket to Hanoi at the Northern Bus Station and for only 150,000 Kip, but this will take you only until the border and then you'll be left at the mercy of the local drivers who can charge you any amount, since you're in the middle of nowhere. Don't mistake the Northern bus station with the Southern!

It is preferable to buy tickets to next destination, say Vientiane at tour agents (12-hr trip and not 9-hr as what agents are touting, a total of 13 hours including the 1-hour meal time and as quoted as of Feb'12 at 150,000 kips for seating bus and 165,000 for sleeper bus - both include air-con and meals). For seating buses, there is no built-in toilet and one must relieve one's bladder and discharge one's bowel movement before departing because the stop over at the restaurant is 4 hours away, and the last, the destination station. Check though, because not all tour companies offer free pick-up from a passenger's residence in the quote price. Bus Station (southern) is about 2 miles or 3.2 km away by walking from the tourist/backpacker's area (the manhattan-shaped tonque) and tuk tuk costs about 20,000 kip as of Feb.'12). Same thing with the Northern Bus Station, it's three plus mile-walk.

When on a night trip to Vientiane, it is preferable to bring along a neck pillow to lessen the impact of the rough trip.

• Nong Khiaw minivans with hotel pickup cost 65,000 kip from agencies and would likely be cheaper (40,000 or 55,000) when buying directly at the bus station.