Manhattan/Chinatown

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Manhattan's famous Chinatown is a lively neighborhood, full of good values in restaurants and food shopping. Also on sale are cheap knockoffs of designer labels made in China, and all sorts of trinkets and toys. Chinatown is a much larger neighborhood in population and area than it used to be a few decades ago, and for all practical purposes encompasses most of "Little Italy" and a large portion of the Lower East Side, north of Canal Street and on the north side of the Manhattan Bridge overpass. Indeed, in a real sense, it can be said that the center of Chinatown is no longer on Mott Street between Canal Street and Chatham Square (though that stretch is well worth visiting), but has moved further north and east to East Broadway between Chatham Square and Pike Street and Grand Street between the Bowery and Chrystie Street, where locals shop for foodstuffs - and you can, too, for good values. Chinatown has also been growing more diverse, becoming a bit less of a Chinatown and more of a China and Southeast Asia town, with a growing presence of immigrants from Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, etc.

The Chinatown area also encompasses what little remains of Little Italy, an area which is essentially comprised of a few blocks of Mulberry Street north of Canal, plus a bit on streets perpendicular to Mulberry (such as the block between Mulberry and Mott on Grand Street, or part of it). Little Italy is almost devoid of Italian residents nowadays, and is primarily a kind of tourist theme park, but still contains a few eateries with reputations. What used to be the northern end of Little Italy, now called NoLIta (which extends north to Houston Street), is a quieter residential area, less touristy, but with upscale boutiques, and more often frequented by New Yorkers than SoHo, of which it is in some ways an eastern extension, nowadays.

Get in[edit]

Chinatown Map

By subway[edit]

For general purposes, the D or B subway lines to Grand Street are optimal for accessing Chinatown. The J and Z to Bowery leave you a little north of the center of Chinatown. The F train to East Broadway leaves you toward the eastern edge of the neighborhood. The 6, R, N, Q, J or Z to Canal Street leave you a few blocks west of the center of the neighborhood though in the midst of the excitement, congestion, and vendors of Canal St (this is generally the best stop for shopping for anything other than foodstuffs). Further afield, it is also possible to take the 4 or 5 to Brooklyn Bridge or the 2 or 3 to Park Place and walk north and east. The A, C, or E trains that stop at Canal and 6th Av. and the 1 train, which stops at Canal and Varick, are far west of the neighborhood though walkable in good weather.

By MTA bus[edit]

Several city bus lines including the M9, M15, and M103 traverse Chinatown.

By long distance bus[edit]

Chinatown is the home of several super-cheap long distance bus companies. You can take buses from Manhattan's Chinatown to other Chinatowns in Boston; Philadelphia; Washington, D.C.; to various cities further afield; and to casinos in Atlantic City. Ticket offices of the various bus companies are scattered throughout Chinatown, including those of Eastern Coach, Lucky Star Bus, New Century Bus, and Sky Express Bus, among others.

On foot[edit]

You can of course walk to Chinatown. If coming from Brooklyn, you can cross the Manhattan Bridge, which opened to pedestrian traffic within the past few years. Note though, that your view will be partially blocked by a protective mesh, and that you will be periodically rattled by the B, D, N, and Q trains crossing the bridge. But on the plus side, you will exit on Bowery near Canal Street in central Chinatown. Another bridge that can be crossed from Brooklyn to Manhattan is the Williamsburg Bridge. After crossing the Williamsburg, you will be left at the border of Chinatown on Delancey Street. All things being equal, though, it is most pleasant to cross the Brooklyn Bridge and then take the short walk to the southern reaches of Chinatown from the pedestrian exit. Note that it is also possible to use a bike path on the Manhattan Bridge and that the walkway over the Brooklyn Bridge doubles for most of its length as a bike path.

See[edit]

The iconic domed Citizen's Savings Bank building, now a branch of HSBC, on the corner of Bowery and Canal, across the street from the entrance to the Manhattan Bridge

The main attraction in Chinatown is just walking through the neighborhood, visiting the above-mentioned shopping streets.

  • Museum of Chinese in the Americas215 Centre St (between Howard and Grand Sts.). Tu-W, F-Su 11AM-6PM, Th 11AM-9PM, closed M. Exhibits on the history and culture of Chinese-Americans. $10 adults, $5 students/seniors, children under 12 free.
  • Columbus ParkBayard St (between Mulberry and Baker Streets). An excellent place to relax and people-watch. Early in the mornings, people practice their tai-chi there. If you're interested, some of these people might teach you a little bit of it. At times, there are a group of women practicing the traditional Chinese fhan dances. Also, usually in the summer time there are basketball tournaments one may either participate in or watch. In the afternoon when school is out, many adolescents hang out in this park.
  • Chatham Square (at the intersection of The Bowery, East Broadway, Park Row, Mott and Worth Streets). At this square at the confluence of several major streets, there is a memorial archway to Chinese-Americans who died in WWII which has some interesting calligraphy. Also in the square is a statue of Lin Zexu, a Chinese scholar who opposed the opium trade in the 19th century.

Do[edit]

  • Mulberry and Canal Street. When many tourists arrive in Chinatown, they are greeted by the stench of dead fish that are sold along the streets. It's definitely a sight worth watching since it is a distinct quality of Chinatown.

Buy[edit]

One of the many bargain stores in Chinatown

Be mindful that most shops in Chinatown accept cash only. Canal Street east of Broadway is a paradise for bargain hunters and people looking to buy counterfeit knock-offs of high-end clothes and accessories. If you want to impress people back home with the fake Louis Vuitton bag you got for $30, this is the place to go. Also look at the stores that line Mott Street between Canal and Chatham Square.

NoLIta has become synonymous with avant-couture boutiques in charmingly dilapidated buildings. Some stores are so idiosyncratic that they appear not to sell anything at all, yet are perpetually crowded and passionately trendy.

  • Elizabeth Center15 Elizabeth Center. If you want to purchase cute Asian accessories or dolls, Elizabeth Center (also known as EC, for short), is the right place for you to shop. Once you enter, go down the escalator and all the shops downstairs sell cute Asian merchandise. If you want to take sticker pictures, EC has it too. It's on the first level in the far left corner of the building.

Groceries and food to go[edit]

  • Aji Ichiban37 Mott St (near Pell St),  +1 866 833-3888. Hong Kong snack shop, very popular with locals and tourists alike. The staff are friendly and give samples.
  • Asia Market5 Mulberry St. 71. between Canal and Bayard Sts, +1 212 962-2020 or +1 212 962-2028. Recently renovated from a dusty, old grocery store with tight aisles and rusty shelves into a brighter, more spacious store with a wider selection of goods. Asia Market supplies a variety of Asian ingredients, snacks, and drinks. Usually the difficult, hard to find Asian ingredients will most likely be available at this store. Even if it isn't available, the staff here is very friendly. You may leave the brand name of the product you want and they may try to order it for you. There is also a vegetable and fruit stand outside the store. Basically, this may be your one-stop store to shop for everything. One good example of the products this store has is fresh kaffir lime leaves, which seem to be hard to find.
  • Bangkok Center Grocery104 Mosco St (between Mott and Mulberry),  +1 212 732-8916. This modest-sized store contains a large quantity of Thai goods of various descriptions, and also sells inexpensive prepared sweet and savory items. Friendly, helpful service.
  • Deluxe Food Market79 Elizabeth St (between Grand and Hester, entrances on Elizabeth and Mott Sts),  +1 212 925-5766. This humongous store has almost anything you can think of and more, both raw and prepared. Seriously; go and see.
  • Kam Man Food Products200 Canal St (between Mott and Mulberry),  +1 212 571-0330.
  • K.L. Malaysia Beef Jerky95A Elizabeth St. (Just south of Grand St.),  +1 212-965-0796. 10am-8pm every day. This is not a cheap snack, but their chicken and beef jerky are excellent and come in spicy and regular varieties. Unlike American-style jerky, Malaysian-style jerky is moist. Its sugar content may surprise you, so low-carb dieters, beware! There is nowhere to sit inside the store, so business is strictly for takeout. Beef jerky and chicken jerky: $18/lb.; Pork jerky: $17/lb.; Shrimp flavored pork jerky: $19/lb..

Knockoffs[edit]

If you want knockoffs of designer labels, try the stores on Mott Street south of Canal first. There are other stores on Canal Street, but you may find them more expensive. And remember, you get what you pay for, so if you buy a knockoff watch and it lasts you more than six months, be happy. Price shop and don't be afraid to try bargaining.

Eat[edit]

Local specialties on the street

If you want to have a really cheap meal, or it's really nice weather, consider buying something on the street (the fried chicken cart that you may find on Canal or Walker Street right near the triangle between Canal, Walker, and Baxter Streets serves really tasty legs and wings, for example) or a cheap prepared thing such as is sold at the Bangkok Center Grocery on Mosco Street between Mott and Mulberry, and eat it in Columbus Park or another park as a kind of impromptu picnic.

If you'd rather have a sit-down meal, Chinatown probably has the largest number of inexpensive restaurants in Manhattan. They range from the "rice, soup, and four side dishes" steam table places to the "4 dumplings for $5" establishments to full-service restaurants like Great NY Noodletown and East Corner Wonton, which abound in dishes "on rice," noodle soups, and congees for around $5 or less, and on up to a seafood specialist like Oriental Garden, where specially requested, highly-prized varieties of live fish and seafood can run up the bill somewhat. But what Chinatown lacks is anything truly high-end. For the most part (with the exception of off-menu items at Oriental Garden), $30-40 is about the most you are likely to pay, even if you pig out at a multi-course banquet.

Budget[edit]

  • Banh Mi Saigon Bakery198 Grand St (between Mott and Mulberry),  +1 212 941-1541. This is in back of a jewelry and gem shop; no kidding! Both the Banh Mi Saigon (pork) and Banh Mi Ga (chicken) sandwiches are fantastic. Get them to go and eat them in a nearby park such as the one on the corner of Spring and Mulberry, a few blocks north and one block west. Note: Do not confuse this place with Saigon Banh Mi So at 369 Broome St, which serves sandwiches that are fine but nowhere near as good.
  • Bo Ky80 Bayard St (between Mott and Mulberry Sts.),  +1 212 406-2292. Very inexpensive food, reliable soups that are especially welcome in cold weather. Very quick service. They have side dishes of offal (pig's ears, etc.) for those who like them. There is another branch with an identical menu at 216 Grand St., between Mott and Elizabeth.
The Manhattan Bridge, emptying its traffic onto the Bowery and Canal Street
  • Chinatown Ice Cream Factory65 Bayard St (between Mott and Bowery),  +1 212 608-4170. Enjoy the "regular" flavors like taro, green tea, lychee, black sesame, mango, and coconut (or the "exotic" flavors like strawberry, vanilla...), and don't neglect the sorbets. The owner also experiments and creates new flavors. Even though there is a Haagen Dazs down the street from this ice cream store, Chinatown Ice Cream Factory is the go-to place for ice cream when you visit Chinatown. On a nice, sunny day, you'll most likely find a long line of customers outside the store waiting to purchase their ice cream. That is how popular this store is. If you really like the ice cream, you may purchase one of their Chinatown Ice Cream Factory t-shirts.
  • Fay Da Bakery83 Mott St, between Canal & Bayard Sts; 191 Centre St.
  • Great NY Noodletown28 Bowery (corner of Bayard),  +1 212 349-0923. This restaurant, which is open late, has the feel of a Chinese diner. It can be very crowded at peak hours. Try the noodle soups and congees (around $5/person), the Ginger-Scallion Lo Mein (ditto), the barbecued items, and the salt baked dishes, but don't neglect the less inexpensive specials, like the dishes with chives or pea shoots (around $13/person, with different charges depending on choice of beef, chicken, shrimp, scallops, etc.). It should be mentioned, for the squeamish, that their bathrooms tend to be pretty filthy, but there's never been any indication that standards of poor hygiene are practiced with regard to food preparation or handling.
  • Joe's Shanghai9 Pell St (between Mott and Doyers),  +1 212 233-8888. This is the most famous of the Shanghainese restaurants in Chinatown, but not the best. Like most every other Shanghainese restaurant, it serves the popular "soup dumplings" (xiaolong bao in Chinese) which contain either crab or/and pork meat with soup all within a dumpling. However, due to its popularity, here are some tips: Don't wait on line, go only at odd hours and order adventurously (get things like eel).
  • M Star Cafe19 Division St (between Catherine and Market Sts),  +1 212 966-8988. Small restaurant decorated with caricatures of Hong Kong celebrities on the walls. If you hit the morning stream of customers, you'll definitely have to wait for a seat since their breakfast is... to die for! Extremely cheap! This restaurant is the best restaurant to eat at if you're looking for something similar to the diners in Hong Kong. A mix of Chinese and American tastes. Definitely try their French toast, pan fried rice noodle, and iced milk tea! Extremely cheap.
  • Nice Green Bo66 Bayard St (between Mott and Bowery),  +1 212 625-2359. Stick to Shanghainese food and do not get things like "Jalapeno Chicken."
  • Tai Pan Bakery194 Canal St +1 212 732-2222. This bakery store offers numerous Chinese breads, delicacies, and both hot and cold beverages/snacks. It shares its name with a popular bakery store chain in Hong Kong.
  • Yummy Noodles48 Bowery (in the Chinatown Arcade between Bowery and Elizabeth St),  +1 212 374-1327. Specializes in casseroles, including things like pig heart casserole.

Mid-range[edit]

  • Cafe Hong Kong51 Bayard St. (Between Bowery and Mott/Elizabeth St.),  +1 212-608-5359. 11am — 11pm every day.. This restaurant was opened in 2013 by personnel from the defunct South China Garden, which used to be around the corner on Mott St. The portions are large and the food is delicious. This is in the estimation of many people the best Cantonese restaurant in Chinatown right now (October, 2013), and best to go to with at least a couple of friends and a big appetite, so that you can share a few dishes. If you like chicken, get the garlic fried chicken, which is one of their standout dishes. Appetizers: $3-6; Soups: $3-9.95 (the $9.95 ones serve 4); Salads: $6-7 (except Lobster Salad: seasonal price); Sandwiches: $2-5; Mains: $7.50-28, plus some seasonal-priced ones, but clustering between $12 and $16 for mains not based on rice or noodles; Lunch specials: $6.95 (11am - 4 pm).
  • Eileen's Special Cheesecake17 Cleveland Pl +1 212-966-5585. M-F 9AM-9PM, Sa-Su 10AM-7PM. Some of the best cheesecake in the city, with individual-sized slices so that you can sample multiple flavors.
  • Hop Kee Restaurant21 Mott St +1 212-964-8365. A decades-old Cantonese restaurant with classic dishes (Roast Pork Lo Mein, etc.) Open late on weekends (until 4AM), but like many other Chinatown restaurants, cash only.
Lombardi's Pizzeria
  • Lombardi's Pizza32 Spring St (corner of Mott),  +1 212 941-7994. The establishment in its current incarnation was opened in 1994, but describes itself as a continuation of "America's first pizzeria" (established in 1905). Their coal oven pizza is served by the pie, not the slice. Many New Yorkers think it has coasted off its prior reputation for years, but tourists can sometimes be seen lined up outside the door.
  • Amazing 6666 Mott St. Very good Cantonese food--go in a large group and get a feast!
  • Nha Trang87 Baxter St (between Canal and Bayard Sts),  +1 212 233-5948. Looking to catch a quick lunch or dinner? This is definitely the place to go! Speedy service! You order and five minutes later, it's on your table ready to eat. A nice, homey Vietnamese restaurant. Be sure to try the soft-shelled crabs and fried calamari. It is done differently, but still delicious.
  • Ping's Seafood22 Mott St +1 212 602-9988. Good seafood restaurant especially the seafood pan-fried noodles & calamari. Also has dim sum. Note that this place can get very crowded during weekend dinner.
  • Shanghai Cafe100 Mott St (between Canal and Hester),  +1 212 966-3988. Possibly the best Shanghainese food in Chinatown, overall. Many young Chinese-American couples have dates there. Do not be shocked if the check is delivered to you unbidden, but don't feel that it must be paid right away. It's easy to have a sizable meal here for around $15 and possible to eat here for less.

Splurge[edit]

  • Ajisen Noodle14 Mott St (between Mosco St and where Bowery intersects Mott St),  +1 212 267-9680. Japanese food in Chinatown. Quaint, peaceful restaurant. You can splurge on the spider roll (sushi with soft-shelled crabs) and the fried ice cream. However, Japanese people often call the Ajisen chain the "McDonald's of ramen," which is not a compliment. So weigh that reputation into your decision on whether to go there.
  • Nyonya194 Grand St (between Mott and Mulberry),  +1 212 334-3669. This restaurant is part of a small chain with other Nyonya and Penang restaurants and is popular and crowded on weekends. Their roti canai is good. One word of warning, though: If you are looking for food like you had on your visit to Kuala Lumpur, for the most part, you won't get it here. Instead, you are likely to get very watered-down, Americanized versions of most of their Malaysian dishes. Expect to spend around $25/person for dinner.
  • Oriental Garden14 Elizabeth St (between Bayard and Canal),  +1 212 619-0085. Somewhat upscale, white tablecloths. Excellent seafood dishes, in particular, and a good, reliable place for a Cantonese banquet. The managers are good at customizing a banquet menu within your budget if you tell them what you want to spend, but consider eliminating one or two of the dishes they suggest, because they tend to recommend too much food (though you can take some home if need be).

Dim Sum[edit]

For dim sum eating halls, especially those with carts, it is generally best to arrive by 10:30 or 11:00 in order to beat the crowds and have fresh food that is hot. Grand Harmony opens early and is a pleasant place to have breakfast between 9 and 10.

  • Dim Sum Go Go5 East Broadway (at Chatham Square),  +1 212 732-0796. More expensive than the average Chinatown restaurant and catering to a mixed clientèle of Chinese and non-Chinese, it is many connoisseurs' favorite spot for dim sum in Chinatown. All the food is made to order; no carts. Some of their non-dim sum items are also good. Roughly $15-17 per person for dim sum.
  • Golden Unicorn18 East Broadway (corner of Catherine),  +1 212 941-0911. Occupies a few floors. Each of the eating rooms is smaller than Jing Fong or Harmony Palace. There is also a bit more decor and the prices are a bit higher.
  • Grand Harmony94 Mott St (between Canal and Hester),  +1 212 226-6603. Often used for dinner banquets as well as dim sum breakfast/lunch.
  • Jing Fong18 Elizabeth St (2nd floor, between Bayard and Canal),  +1 212 964-5256. Has an eating hall about the size of a football field. Try to get a table near the kitchen (to your right on entering) if possible, and don't neglect the non-circulating items available on either wall. Note that Jing Fong reopened last year after being shut by the Health Department for failing an inspection for the second time, so if that bothers you, go elsewhere.
  • Oriental Garden14 Elizabeth St +1 212 619-0085. Also gets good notes for dim sum from some connoisseurs, though others find it inconsistent. There are some carts on weekends, but its dim sum is mostly to order.
  • Ping's Seafood22 Mott St (at Mott St),  +1 212 602-9988. Medium priced, but according to some, the best dim sum in Chinatown (others vehemently disagree). They have exotic offerings such as calamari and sugar cane shrimp.
  • Red Egg202 Centre St (corner of Howard St, between Hester and Grand),  +1 212 966-1123. M-F 11AM-11PM; Sa-Su 10AM-11PM. This restaurant cares about its decor. Its dim sum is perhaps a bit less fancy than Dim Sum Go Go's, but in the opinion of many connoisseurs, it is perhaps the only other place in Chinatown where you can get a delicious, varied dim sum meal. Roughly $15-22 for dim sum.

Drink[edit]

The beautiful Bowery Savings Bank, one of many banks in this neighborhood of much frugality. However, this building is now a bar/restaurant, and no longer accepts deposits except for wedding receptions and other parties in its classy interior.

When in Chinatown, try some bubble tea. It's named for the tapioca/sago balls in the tea, which are sucked up with an oversized straw or eaten with a spoon. This kind of tea, which originated in Taiwan, has a popularity in New York that extends beyond the Chinese community, so you can find bubble tea houses outside of Chinese neighborhoods, but the greatest concentration of such establishments is still in Chinese communities like Manhattan's Chinatown and in Flushing, Queens. There are numerous bubble tea houses in Chinatown.

  • TearifficMott St (between Bayard and Pell Sts),  +1 212 393-9009. One of many bubble tea shops where you can order your bubble tea and, if you like, accompanying food to stay or take out.
  • Ten Ren Tea Time79 Mott St (between Bayard and Canal Sts),  +1 212 732-7178. Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-Midnight. The best bubble tea in town, but price is slightly towards the expensive side compared to other bubble tea stores in the neighborhood.
  • Vivi Bubble Tea49 Bayard St (between Elizabeth and Bowery Sts),  +1 212 566-6833. A small (with a grand total of three seats) but very popular bubble tea shop, with inexpensive drinks and some rather quirky decorations, like Homer Simpson sitting on a bench out front and little coin-operated prize machines to entertain you while you wait in line.

Sleep[edit]

St. Patrick's Old Cathedral, a historical NoLIta landmark, 260 Mulberry St. between Prince and Houston
  • Best Western Bowery Hanbee231 Grand St +1 212 925-1177. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: 11:30AM. A fairly typical Best Western, with Wi-Fi and complimentary breakfast, in a good location. $200-$250.
  • The Bowery House220 Bowery +1 212 837-2373. Shared bathrooms, roof "garden", bike rental and bar [1]. From $75 for a dorm bed.
  • Sohotel341 Broome St +1 212 226-1482. Billing itself as "the oldest running hotel" in the city (the building has been housing a hotel for over a hundred years), the hotel is in an old building with rooms with hardwood floors and exposed brick walls, giving it a pretty unique feel. Lots of in-room amenities, although reviewers have noted issues with noise and cold showers. $175-$300.

Connect[edit]

There are several internet centers in Chinatown. Look for them on Mott Street between Chatham Square and Bayard and on Eldridge Street between Canal and Grand, for example.

Go next[edit]

Obvious places to go next include the Lower East Side which is in large part functionally another part of Chinatown, nowadays; the Financial District, such as the area near City Hall; Soho; and Brooklyn across one of the nearby bridges. A somewhat more out-of-the-box idea is to go to Flushing next, to see an extensive and even more diverse Chinatown in Queens. There are vans that connect Manhattan's Chinatown with Flushing, but you might have to ask around to find them. They are sometimes on Division St. not far from the Bowery, and more recently have been seen on Elizabeth St. near Hester.

Routes through Chinatown
MidtownSoho  N NYCS-bull-trans-6.svg S  Financial District
MidtownSoho  N NYCS-bull-trans-B.svgnoframe S  Downtown BrooklynConey Island
Financial District  W NYCS-bull-trans-J.svgnoframe E  Lower East SideWilliamsburg
MidtownSoho  N NYCS-bull-trans-N.svgnoframe S  Downtown BrooklynConey Island
MidtownSoho  N NYCS-bull-trans-R.svg S  Financial District (weekdays only) → Downtown Brooklyn (weekends only)


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