Paris/15th arrondissement

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The 15th arrondissement of Paris is in the city's southwest on the Left Bank of the Seine. Quite up-market and quiet, it is the largest arrondissement by both area and population. Housing over 230,000 inhabitants and providing around 150,000 jobs, it is dense with residential and office developments, including the high rise skyline of Front de Seine along the northern part of the 15th's bank of the river. On the other hand, it sees relatively little tourist traffic — but that does not mean it is devoid of attractions.

The famous skyscraper Tour Montparnasse as well as the neighbouring railway station Gare du Montparnasse are both on the western border of the 15th arrondissement, although the actual district of Montparnasse is right across the border in the 14th arrondissement.

Understand[edit]

The four quarters of the 15th arrondissement

The 15th arrondissement is further broken up administratively into four quartiers: Grenelle, Necker, Saint-Lambert and Javel.

Grenelle is the quarter closest to the 7th arrondissement and thus directly neighbouring the Champs-de-Mars and the Eiffel Tower. Therefore, it houses many hotels advertising the proximity of the Tower. The waterfront part of Grenelle is home to the 1970s high rise residential development of Beaugrenelle, and the eponymous shopping mall. The more inland parts of the quarter are filled with 19th-century Haussmannian buildings, interspersed with some more modern ones.

The quarter of Necker, situated between Grenelle and the quarter of Montparnasse of the 14th arrondissement, is home to some of the locations named after Montparnasse, most notably the Tour Montparnasse and Gare du Montparnasse. It also houses more large public service and commercial buildings, such as the expansive Hôpital des Enfants malades. Otherwise, it is full of late 20th-century residential buildings, with many fewer Haussmannian structures than Grenelle.

The southeast quarter of Saint-Lambert is most known for the Parc des expositions de la porte de Versailles, which is one of the largest and most important exposition centres in France and Europe.

The southwestern quartier Javel had long been an industrial area of Paris, but has been reclaimed as office, residential, and recreational over the decades. It contains the Parc Andre Citroen, created over the former Citroen factory grounds, as well as the Heliport of Paris in its southern extremity.

Get in[edit]

The Bir Hakeim Bridge Soldier, with the Eiffel Tower in the background
L'île aux cygnes, statue de la Liberté Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi
Sculpture Cristaux in parc Béla Bartók. Jean Yves Lechevallier

By train[edit]

The Gare Montparnasse is at the northeastern extremity of the arrondissement and offers many good connections within the district and all of Paris. Also a direct train to Chartres. The Transilien N ends its run here.

RER C runs along the left bank of the Seine across the 15th arrondissement and beyond with stops at Alma-Tour Eiffel and Musée des Arts Premiers, Musée d'Orsay and Saint-Michel-Notre Dame; In the other direction it is a direct line to Versailles-Château. Also to Orly airport through Pont de Rungis stop.

By metro[edit]

The following lines go through the 15th arrondissement

  • M6 crosses the northern part of the 15th from east to west over an elevated estacade. It forms a southern ring through Paris, running between Etoile and Nation and also stopping at Gare Montparnasse
  • M8 runs from the south of the 15th arrondissement northwards, continuing through the 7th onto the right bank of the Seine, including stops at Opera, Republique and Bastille
  • M10 takes an southwest/northeast tangent through the 15th, connecting it to the 5th, 6th and Gare de Austerlitz from one end, and the 16th as well as Boulogne-Billancourt from the other.
  • M12 runs north-south through the 15th, entering it at the north at Gare Montparnasse. It also stops further north at Gare du Nord and Saint Lazare

Good changeover stations:

  • Montparnasse-Bienvenue (at the foot of Gare Montparnasse) - M4, M6, M12, M13
  • La Motte-Picquet - Grenelle - M6, M8, M10
  • Porte de Versailles - M12 and trams T2 and T3a

By tram[edit]

  • T2 from La Defense ends its run at Porte Versailles, where it connects to T3a and M12
  • T3a runs across the south of the 15th arrondissement, starting from the Seine and continuing into the 14th, 13th and 12th

By bus[edit]

  • Lines: 39, 62, 42 (from Gare du Nord), 88, 80, 70, 39

See[edit]

Parc André Citroën
Ile aux Cygnes in Winter, St Christophe Church - Inside
Ballon de Paris at night

Landmarks[edit]

  •    Ile aux Cygnes (Pont de Grenelle). One of the three islands on the river Seine
  •    Square Béla BartókFront de Seine. A small park between two highrises on the Front de Seine featuring two interesting sculptures dedicated to the musician
  •    Statue de la Liberté (Pont de Grenelle). Replica on the site where Bartholdi had his workshop
  •    St Christophe de Javel28 Rue de la Convention (Métro Javel - André Citroen),  +33 1 45 78 33 70. The first concrete church


Museums and Galleries[edit]

Parcs[edit]

There are several parcs, while the biggest is the Parc André Citroën.

  •    Jardin atlantique1, place des Cinq Martyrs du Lycée Buffon. Suspended above the train tracks this garden is surprisingly calm and chilled-out.
  •    Parc André Citroën2, rue Cauchy. 08:00-17:45. The large park occupies the 14 ha formerly occupied by a Citroën factory. Several gardens have specific themes, including water games. On sunny weekends or vacation days many people chill out or jog there.
  •    Parc des Expositions (Porte de Versailles). Paris's international exhibition centre (the 4th largest in Europe) has millions of visitors annually.

Do[edit]

  •    Aquaboulevard4 rue louis Armand. Biggest swimming pool and recreational center inside Paris.
  •    Ballon de ParisParc André Citroôen +33 1 44 26 20 00. Get a unique bird's eye view of Paris on board an air-balloon, from an altitude of 150 m. 12€.
  • Front de Seine. Take a walk along the Front de Seine to appreciate the modern mixed use architecture between Bir-Hakeim bridge and Garigliano bridge, some of the buidings were designed by world renowned architects; The view is probably best from bridge Pont Mirabeau.
  •    Maison de la culture du Japon101Bis Quai Branly (Métro Bir-Hakeim),  +33 1 44 37 95 01. The location hosts several expositions, a library and a concert hall.
  • Tapovan Paris9 rue Gutenberg +33 1 45 77 90 59. This Ayurvedic centre offers both treatment and professional training in various Ayurvedic healing arts: hatha & nada yoga, reiki, Ayurvedic massage, reflexology, oil treatments (e.g. Shirodhara).
  •    Tour Montparnasse, Top deck33, Avenue du Maine +33 1 45 38 52 56. 9:30 AM to 10:30 PM. Panoramic View of Paris from the 56th floor. 15€.

Learn[edit]

  •    le Cordon Bleu (culinary school), 8, rue Léon Delhomme +33 1 53 68 22 50. Offering some short courses, workshops and culinary "demonstrations". Julia Child, who famously popularized the art of French cuisine in America, graduated from this school in the 1940s, as portrayed in the movie Julie & Julia.

Buy[edit]

The Beaugrenelle shopping centre within the Front de Seine

Eat[edit]

Paris - Pont Mirabeau detail
Sidewalk café

The quarter of Saint-Lambert contains many cafés and small restaurants, some of them in nice and quiet pedestrian streets or squares. You get get out on the Metro station Convention and explore the myriads of small streets. Ideally not wandering too far off Vaugirard street, which fully traverses the 15th arrondissement. If you choose to go up to Montparnasse, there are several good places with fair prices before getting to the train station. On the other hand if you go in direction of Porte de Versailles you will have more choice, but with very fluctuating quality.

Budget[edit]

  •    Café Zinc-Zen114, rue de la Convention (Boucicaut),  +33 1 45 58 08 40. Small café with 2 seating areas - seats in the windows and a darker back room. Elegant but not expensive, great lunches/dinners, and superb crème brûlée for a night cap with coffee.
  • Choux d'enferIntersection rue Jean Rey and quai Branly (Métro Bir-Hakeim or RER Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel),  +33 1 47 83 26 67. 7/7, 9h – 20h30. Street food + haute pâtisserie française = sweet food in a designer "kiosk".
  •    Le Linois89 rue St Charles (Metro:Charles Michel),  +33 1 45 77 72 21. Brasserie on lively Place Charles Michel

Mid-range[edit]

  •    Le Café du Commerce51, rue du Commerce (Métro Emile Zola),  +33 1 45 75 03 27. 12:00-15:00, 19:00-24:00. Authentic French food and ambience. (Be sure to go to number 51 rue du Commerce, as there is another place nearby with a similar name.)
  •    La Plage ParisiennePort de Javel ht +33 1 40 59 41 00, e-mail: . May-September 12:00-14:30, 19:30-23:00. Along the River, rather pleasant. They also offer cocktails at their bar.
  •    Le Volant13 rue Beatrix Dussane (Metro: Dupleix),  +33 1 45 75 27 67. M-Sa 12:00–14:30, 19:00–23:00. The Basque restaurant excels in meat. If you are lucky the soup of the day is the "soupe au marron". There is a possibility to get a 3-course evening menu including entrée, plat and dessert. The home-made "mousse au chocolat" is really big. Also the bistro is generous on the sides: Usually one gets "purée", rice and polenta. Inside the restaurant, the former tricot of the famous French football player Zinedine Zidane is on display. As the small place fills rapidly, reservation is recommended. €30 evening menu.
  •    Au Roi du café59 rue Lecourbe (Sèvres-Lecourbe),  +33 1 47 43 48 50. Open 7 /7 de 6 AM to 2 AM. Belle-Epoque decor, true bisto spirit
  •    Bermuda OnionCentre commercial Beaugrenelle, Ilôt Verseau - 3rd floor, 7 rue Linois, 75015 +33 1 45 78 83 62, e-mail: . 10AM to 12PM. Eat or drink. View of the river even better in the evening.

Splurge[edit]

  •    Afaria15, rue Desnouettes (Convention),  +33 1 48 42 95 90. This Basque restaurant mainly serves meat or some fancy tapas on the bar. €8-28.
  •    Le Beurre Noisette68 Rue Vasco de Gama (Metro Porte de Versailles),  +33 1 48 56 82 49. Tu-Sa 12:00–14:00, 19:00–23:00. The restaurant of Thierry Bianqui offers interesting food all year long. Remember to reserve in advance for this cosy place. The menu are written on chalk boards and they can arrange custom demands for vegetarians. The desserts are recommended. 3 courses for €35.
  •    Le Ciel de ParisTop of Tour Montparnasse (33, avenue du Maine),  +33 1 40 64 77 64. 360° view.
  •    Restaurant BenkayHotel Novotel Front de Seine Grenelle, 61 quai de Grenelle +33 140582126. Japanese gastronomy. Great views.
  •    le Quinzième14, rue Cauchy – 75015 Paris (Métro line 10, station Javel. Bus : 88),  +33 1 45 54 43 43. The restaurant, lies alongside Parc André Citroën. By 2005, wide audiences were following Cyril Lignac on TV as he opened his own restaurant, Le Quinzième, on the popular French series “Oui Chef!” Here he brilliantly demonstrated his know-how and good taste, producing refined and slightly off-beat cooking, always made with his trademark top quality ingredients.
  •    Yanasé75 rue Vasco de Gama +33 01 42 50 07 20. Tu-Sa 12:00-14:30, 19:30-22:30. The Japanese restaurants combines in a savory way traditional French cuisine to the traditional Japanese one. Green tea is served in abundance and one can observe the mastery of the cook. €80 menu.

Drink[edit]

  •    Celtic Corner Pub21 Rue Lakanal +33 1 42 50 74 11. A nice little irish pub with charming service and fair price. Sports men from the nearby Gymnase "Croix Nivert" like to hang out here for a beer or two.
  •    Charlie Birdy - Commerce1, place Étienne Pernet (Métro Commerce),  +33 1 48 28 06 06. Food, drinks and music.
  •    Crocodile Vert6 Rue du Hameau (Métro Porte de Versailles),  +33 1 56 08 15 4. The small hidden Cuban bar is a bit away from rue de Vaugirard. It is quite popular for the salsa music on the weekends. At later times you'll recognise it by the number of people standing outside.
  •    Le square café139 Boulevard de Grenelle +33 1 43 06 80 84. In spring time sun is shining on the outdoor terrace. It is a nice spot for a tea with soft background music.

Sleep[edit]

Budget[edit]

Front de Seine as seen from Pont de Bir-Hakeim

Mid-range[edit]

  •    Campanile Paris XV - Tour Eiffel30, rue Saint Charles / 21 Rue Sextius-Michel (2 min from the Dupleix metro station, Line 6; 2 min from the Charles Michel metro station, Line 10; and 5 min from the RER C station, Champs de Mars),  +33 1 45 78 61 33fax: +33 1 45 79 41 13, e-mail: . English & Spanish spoken at reception. €70-120.
  •    Mercure Paris Centre Tour Eiffel20, rue Jean Rey (Station Tour Eiffel (RER C) / Bir-Hakeim (Metro 6)),  +33 825 80 17 17, e-mail: . A relatively large mid-range hotel very close to the Eiffel Tower, in a nice, quiet and green area of Grenelle. Despite the closeness, only about a quarter of the rooms, designated as such and commanding higher rates, feature a view of the tower itself. All of the rooms and common spaces have been renovated and feature modern decor inspired by the tower and the metro. The rooms are very functional and feature operable windows, but the amounts of plastic and the violet theme may not provide for a romantic Parisian experience. €145+.
  •    Mercure Paris Tour Eiffel Grenelle64, boul de Grenelle (Dupleix Station, Metro 6),  +33 1 45 78 90 90, e-mail: . Not to be confused with the other Mercure, this one is not far away but in quite a different setting, facing the busy Boulevard Grenelle and the overground Metro 6 line. Neither as quiet nor as modern or comfortable as the other Mercure. On balance it is one of the cheaper hotels in its class close to the core tourist centre of Paris. €125+.
  •    Novotel Paris Tour Eiffel61 Quai De Grenelle. The largest Novotel in the world was originally built as a Japanese hotel Nikko, and retains many interesting design elements of the former, like the capsule-style windows, and the Japanese restaurant Benkay. It is by now not ageing that well though and awaits the long-overdue renovation.
  •    Novotel Paris Gare Montparnasse17 Rue Du Cotentin (Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe or Pasteur). Located in a quiet corner of Montparnasse, and if you don't mind a 10-min walk to the Metro, this is a nice and relatively new hotel. Easy access from the Montparnasse-Bienvenüe Metro: just take the stairs all the way up to the train platforms, exit on Boulevard de Vaugirard, take a left and follow the street up to the hotel. There is a Velib' City Bike Rental park just outside the hotel.

Splurge[edit]

  •    Pullman Paris Tour Eiffel18 avenue de Suffren (entrance is from 22 rue Jean Rey),  +33 1-44385600fax: +331-44385610, e-mail: . The former Hilton was taken over by Accor's upscale business hotel brand Pullman and underwent extensive renovation to its rooms and public spaces. It continues to offer close-up views of the Eiffel Tower from the balconies of its relatively spacious for Paris Deluxe (32 sqm) and Superior (26 sqm) rooms, while the Classic rooms (26 sqm) face the courtyard. Room-only rates starting from €205, breakfast is €25 per person.

Connect[edit]

Paris Wi-Fi is free of charge and accessible in a number of parks (Parc Georges Brassens, Parc André Citroën, Jardin Atlantique, Jardin Nicole de Hautecloque) or squares (Saint Lambert, Violet, Clos Feuquières, rue Blomet, Alleray Labrouste), as well as in the Starbucks and rather fancy McDonald's on Place Charles Michel.

Go Next[edit]

This district travel guide to 15th arrondissement is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page
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