Paris/9th arrondissement

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The 9th arrondissement of Paris is a diverse, "in between" section of the French capital. The Grands Boulevards area of shopping thoroughfares and flagship department stores (as well as the original Opera - hence the common name for the district) is to be found in the southern part of the arrondissement (shared with the 2nd and the 8th). By way of contrast, the fading red-light and cheap shopping district of Pigalle is in the north of the 9th, closely adjoining Montmartre on the hill above in the 18th. In between the two, relatively-speaking, lies a traveller's no-man's-land / terra incognita - though the streets around St Lazare used to be the Impressionists stronghold in Paris.

Get in[edit]

Detail of the Palais Garnier

By Métro[edit]

Main stations are: Opéra (3, 7, 8), Chaussée d'Antin La Fayette (7, 9), and Grands Boulevards (8, 9), Le Peletier (7), Notre-Dame-de-Lorette (12), Richelieu-Drouot (8,9).

See[edit]

Opéra Garnier

As with the other 19 arrondissements of Paris there are a lot of little commemorative plaques scattered around on the houses of the 9th. One example is the site of the first public demonstration of the Lumiere brother's moving picture projection system which is marked by a pair of commemorative plaques at 14, boul des Capucines between rue Scribe and rue Edward VIII.

  • Musée Grévin10, boul Montmartre +33 1 47 70 85 05. The Musée Grévin is a waxwork museum with some 500 characters arranged in scenes from the history of France and modern life.
  • Musée Gustave Moreau14, rue de la Rochefoucauld (Métro: Trinité),  +33 1 48 74 38 50fax: +33 1 48 74 18 71. W-M, 10ː00-12.45 and 14ː00-17ː15. The house of the symbolist painter has now become a museum to his life and work. €4 (some reductions on offer).
  • Opéra Garnierplace de l'Opéra. Daily, 10ː00-16:30. The magnificent setting of The Phantom of the Opera, the inside is as opulent as the outside. However, since the opening of the Opera Bastille (12th) in 1989, the Palais Garnier has been reserved mostly for dance performances, particularly ballet. €7. The cheapest seats for actual performances can go as low as €6 if you book early.

Do[edit]

Admire the skyline from the roofs of Printemps or the Galeries Lafayette. There's also a hot air balloon at Parc André Citroën (southwest Paris), but not on windy days.

  • les Grands Boulevards. Go shopping at the grands magasins (department stores).

Buy[edit]

Particularly interesting in this area are the covered passageways built in the 19th century, charming early versions of the shopping mall. There are several in the vicinity of boulevard Haussmann and rue Vivienne, including passage Jouffroy and passage Verdeau, and across the boulevard Haussmann in the 2nd arrondissement, the passage des Panoramas.

The department stores along the boulevard Haussmann are overpriced compared to smaller specialty shops. For a more interesting selection and better quality-price ratio, venture out to the innumerable shopping streets in Paris. Make sure to say bonjour on entering and merci, au revoir on leaving. For more information on common courtesy in Paris, see the main Paris article.

  • Galeries Lafayette40, boul Haussmann. The gourmet section is a Paris institution that takes up an entire floor, featuring (among many other things) several competing vendors of deluxe baguettes, a few hundred types of cheese, and an entire aisle devoted to mustard. Depending on your home country you may be eligible for a 10% discount for all goods (you just need to show a flyer that is attached to tourist office Paris maps).

Eat[edit]

If you're in the southern part of the neighbourhood, you might also consider arrondissements 2 or 8 - neither are more than a short walking distance. You could also visit the food section of any of the grands magasins, or one of the smaller traiteurs (shops selling prepared food), and pick up the ingredients for a piquenique in the square Louis XVI on boulevard Haussmann and rue Pasquier; square de la Trinité, at the top of rue de la chaussée d'Antan--free concerts in the church at 12:30 most Thursdays; or the square du Montholon on rue de la Fayette between rue Cadet and rue du faubourg Poissonière. Otherwise, here are some good eating options:

  • Au Relais7, rue Cadet +33 1 45 23 25 22. Downstairs is the local bar with a few tables; most patrons know the two women behind the bar by name. Upstairs is a low-ceilinged dining room. On weekdays they have a €12 lunch menu for two courses and a small pitcher of wine. The food is traditional and very good. €12-20.
  • Chartier7, rue du Faubourg Montmartre (Métro: Grand Boulevard),  +33 1 47 70 86 29. Since 1896. Menu changes daily, historic building. Nice and cheap food. Plain cooking; don't expect haute cuisine. Usually the line is bigger than the reputation.
  • Corneil18, rue Condorcet (Métro: Poissonnière),  +33 1 49 95 92 25. Good French restaurant, reasonable prices. The côte de boeuf pour deux (steak for two) is a classic. €20-40.
  •    Kastoori5, rue Henri Monnier (Métro: Saint Georges). Good, reasonably priced Indian restaurant. Alcohol is not sold, so locals often bring their own wine.
  • La Marmite2, boul de Clichy (Métro: Pigalle),  +33 1 42 55 83 42. Nice sunny place for having lunch. Especially good lunch deals.
  • L'Opéra Restaurantplace Jacques Rouché (Palais Garnier),  +33 1 42 68 86 80. 07ː00-24ː00. A modern restaurant designed by Odile Decq opened in the 19th century Opéra Garnier and convenient to Galeries Lafayette or Printemps. €60-70.
  • Pizzeria Da Carmine61, rue des Martyrs (Métro: Pigalle),  +33 1 48 78 28 01. Closed Su, M. Good (real) Italian restaurant/pizzeria. Does not accept credit cards.
  • Pizza Marzano (Pizza Express), 30, boul des Italiens (Métro: Opéra),  +33 1 47 70 33 33. Daily, 11.30-24ː00. UK travellers will be familiar with the above-average pizza / pasta menu, speedy table service and very reasonable prices. This outlet has a large al fresco area for the warmer months.
Map of the 9th Arrondissement
  • Pizza Marzano Clichy10 bis, place de Clichy +33 1 40 16 52 30. Daily, 11ː00-01ː00. On the site of an old Paris restaurant, La Champagne, this second "Pizza Express" outlet (they're both in the 9th) is close to the Moulin Rouge and Montmartre.
  • Le Roi du Pot-au-Feu34, rue Vignon (Métro: Madeleine or Havre-Caumartin),  +33 1 47 42 37 10. The menu is very short, but the meals are big and good. The best pot-au-feu in the world. Very nice, typical Parisian atmosphere. €35.

Drink[edit]

  • Le Café Zéphyr12, boul Montmartre (Métro Grands Boulevards),  +33 1 47 70 80 14. A typical brasserie with a fine choice of simple food (salads, etc.).
  • I Golosi6, rue Grange Batelière (Métro Grands Boulevards),  +33 1 48 24 18 63. On a quiet side street, a good Italian wine bar and shop where you can buy the wines you will have tasted.

Sleep[edit]

Budget[edit]

  • Hotel de Lille2, rue du Montholon (Métro: Poissonière),  +33 1 47 70 38 76fax: +33 1 48 00 04 55. Family-run, fairly Spartan, near the Gare du Nord. The area around this train station, worked by street prostitutes, is not very pleasant at night.

Mid-range[edit]

  •    Hotel Best Western Opéra d'Antin75, rue de Provence (Metro Chaussée d'Antin–La Fayette / Havre Caumartin / Auber),  +33 1 48 74 12 99fax: +33, e-mail: . When you exit Hotel Best Western Opéra d’Antin and leave the large department stores behind you (Galeries Lafayette & Le Printemps), just cross boulevard Haussmann and you will find yourself before the Opera Garnier.
  • Hotel Langlois (Hotel des Croisés), 63, rue Sant-Lazare (Metro: Porte de la Chapelle),  +33 1 48 74 78 24. They serve a decent breakfast in the morning, but there is also a boulangerie and a bar down the street.
  • Hotel La Tour d'Auvergne (Hotel Montmartre), 10, rue de la Tour d'Auvergne (Metro Anvers, Poissonnière, Cadet),  +33 1 48 78 61 60. On a street full of surprises. A few steps away from Montmartre, rue des Martyrs, Opéra, and avenue Trudaine.
  • Paris Hotel23, rue Henri Monnier (Metro Pigalle or Saint Georges (both 400m away)),  +33 1 42 85 43 43. 3 star near Pigalle. The rooms are of decent quality and the views of the street are charming and typically Parisian (lots of balconies and shutters at the front, and a pleasant garden view at the back.) There's free Wi-Fi in the rooms and a nice breakfast room. The street can get a little noisy at night, but that's typical of the area and probably not enough to keep you awake but you should be aware in case you happen to be a light sleeper. There is a Renault parking garage round the corner which charged €52 for 72 hours. Double room with a shower €85.

Splurge[edit]

  • Hôtel Scribe1, rue Scribe +33 1 44 71 24 24. Crown jewel in the Sofitel chain, this elegantly redecorated 4 star hotel hasn't lost any of its charm since it was first opened in 1895. All rooms are sound proofed and come with Wi-Fi. The apartments have a separate entrance and they can provide you with a nanny if needed.

Connect[edit]

Go next[edit]

Routes through 9th arrondissement
Levallois-Perret8th arrondissement  W Paris m 3 jms.svg E  2nd arrondissement20th arrondissement


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