Getting in requires some effort. Most visitors fly to Tawau from either Kuala Lumpur (3 hours) or Kota Kinabalu (50 minutes), continue by minivan or taxi to the port town of Semporna (1-2 hours) and from there to Sipadan itself (1 hour by fast boat).
Walking along the beautiful sandy beaches, snorkeling sites on all sides of the island can be reached. Scuba divers usually will take a boat a few minutes from the beach to their dive site.
Note: it is no longer possible to stay on Sipadan itself
The beautiful sandy beaches and the coral reef with its rich marine life. On the island there are large monitor lizards (more than 1m in length) which sometimes come out onto the beach or even into the water.
Sipadan claims to be the world's best dive site. While this is a big claim, the diving here is certainly world class. Sipadan used to have resorts but to protect the environment these were closed around the year 2002. To dive on Sipadan you have to stay somewhere nearby, such as on Mabul or in Semporna, and take a boat onto the island.
Because Sipadan is now a protected site, only 120 dives are allowed daily (as of Aug 2008). It's best to try to dive as early as possible to beat the crowds and increase your chances of getting on the roster to dive.
From the main beach of the original resort it is a mere 20m wade over the reef to reach the top of the reef wall dropping 1,000-2,000 m. Sipadan is surrounded by very rich reef life consisting of both hard and soft coral as well as all manner of reef fish. Sea turtles and white tip reef sharks can be seen on almost every dive and hammerhead and leopard sharks can also be seen at times. Visibility ranges from 10m to 30m and above.
A barge accident on 15 May 2006 did some damage to the reefs at Sipadan, crushing a portion of reef on the old pier and Barracuda Point and dumping its cargo of gravel in the area. This was not one of the best dive areas, but clean-up operations and other repercussions did restrict diving in the months since.
The rate for three dives at Sipadan is around RM560. Rates vary slightly among different operators. Boat transfers and packed lunch are included. Permits are limited to 120 per day and are typically obtained by the dive operators. You should verify that the diver operator you choose is diving at Sipadan with permits, as some companies have been caught diving the island recently without permits.
Check diver reviews of dive operators in the area before choosing. Many have had customer complaints regarding faulty equipment.
Dive shops include:
- Big John Scuba (Office located in Semporna near Dragon Inn resort.), ☎ +60 14 284 3723., e-mail: email@example.com. Located on Mabul Island. Nice diveshop affiliated with Lai's Homestay.
- Billabong Scuba. Located on Mabul Island.
- Blue Sea Divers (Located in Semporna.).
- Diving Sipadan Malaysia. Scuba Diving Training Centre
- Sipadan.com. Dive Centre & Longhouse located on Mabul with office in Semporna.
- Scuba Junkie. Located in Semporna.
- Sipadan Scuba. PADI 5* IDC Centre located in Semporna.
- Sipadan-Mabul Resort. Located on Mabul island.
- Seaventures Rig Resort a converted dive platform, PADI 5* IDC Centre and resort located 2 minutes off Mabul Island.
- Sipadan Water Village. Located on Mabul island.
- Uncle Chang's Sipadan Mabul Dive Lodge located on Mabul island. The office is also located near Dragon Inn in Semporna. 
- Singamata Adventures Semporna S /B Dive lodge. Located Singamata house reef. The office is also located next to Seafest hotel in Semporna
- Summer Friends. Located on Mabul Island.
For non-divers snorkeling is an option on Sipadan. From the beach the reef is easily accessible, and parts of the reef further out can be reached by boat. A wide variety and number of reef fishes, corals, and with a bit of luck, the sharks, barracuda and turtles can be seen without leaving the surface. Note that currents and boat traffic (especially if duck diving) are the major hazards in the offshore areas, and cryptically coloured stone fish may be a hazard in the shallows.
A buoyed-off area from the 'safe' side of the jetty gives snorkellers the safest and potentially most productive snorkeling area. Note that the phenomonal drop-off that makes this island so special, starts where the jetty ends.
Several dive tour operators bring snorkelers to the island at an all-inclusive rate of around RM490.
With all resorts closed down, there is nothing to buy on the island.
There are no restaurants, and dive tours bring their own lunch and snacks with them.
Dive tours bring their own water and drinks with them.
All resorts on Sipadan have been closed in order to preserve the island in a pristine state. Diving is still permitted and possible by day-trips from the nearby town Semporna.
Another possibility is to "live aboard" in Semporna on MV Celebes Explorer with 8 cabins and a guaranteed Sipadan permit.
The islands were previously disputed between Malaysia and Indonesia, leading to instability and a highly publicized case of 20 tourists being kidnapped by Abu Sayyaf rebels in 2000. However, an International Court of Justice decision sided with Malaysia, and the area is now regularly patrolled by the Royal Malaysian Navy.
- Mabul Island Is home to a number of high end hotels and a few hostels. The entire island is an interesting mix of local community living on fishing and supporting the tourist industry. The island is a great base for diving and there is a hotel oil rig off the island. All places to stay there require pre booking and you will be transferred. If you can stay here if you are doing a few dive days as Sempora itself is a tad nasty. You will be lucky if you turn up and find a free bed on the island.