Stewart Island

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Stewart Island is the third largest island of New Zealand after the South Island and the North Island. It lies 30 km to the south of the South Island, separated from it by Foveaux Strait. With an area of 1,746 km² (674 mi²), it is far smaller than the two main islands, but is nearly twice the size of the next largest island, Chatham Island with 920 km² (355 mi²), and far bigger than all the other small islands of the temperate New Zealand archipelago.

Its original Maori name of Te Punga o Te Waka a Maui positions Stewart Island firmly at the heart of Maori mythology. Translated as "The Anchor Stone of Maui's Canoe", this refers to the part played by this island in the legend of Maui and his crew who, from their canoe (the South Island), caught and raised the great fish, the North Island. However, the more commonly used name is Rakiura. Translated as "The great and deep blushing of Te Rakitamau", an early Maori chief, it is seen today as the glowing sunrises, sunsets and the aurora australis or Southern Lights.

Understand[edit]

Most of the island is covered in native forest and virtually the entire small population is concentrated in the township of Oban (also known as Halfmoon Bay) on the east coast. Commercial fishing and tourism are the two main occupations for residents. The main attractions for visitors are hiking (called tramping in New Zealand), birdwatching, fishing and deer hunting.

Although Stewart Island sometimes shows as a dot on the map (if it appears at all), don't be fooled. Stewart Island is large, 64 km long, and 40 km across (at its widest point). It has a 700 km coastline, but there are only 20 km of roads!

Get in[edit]

To get to Stewart Island requires crossing the Foveaux Strait, about 22 nautical miles or approximately 39 km from Bluff to Oban / Half Moon Bay.

There is a scheduled passenger ferry service from Bluff, near Invercargill, with multiple departures during the day (dependent on time of year). The crossing takes one hour and is operated by Stewart Island Experience.

There are also several daily 20 minute plane flights from Invercargill Airport operated by Southern Air.

Occasionally there are other boats making the crossing; however, these are generally charter vessels.

Get around[edit]

  • Walk, mostly. All of the 20 kilometres of roads are around Halfmoon Bay, so the island is a hiker's wilderness paradise.
  • Bus tour
  • Shuttles, taxi, rental cars, mountain bikes and scooters
  • Water taxi or charter a fishing or tour boat
  • Helicopter

See[edit]

The museum and Department of Conservation (DoC) in Oban both have excellent displays and are open most days.

Stewart Island's one of the best places to view the aurora australis or Southern Lights, if you don't fancy an expensive and uncomfortable sojourn in one of the New Zealand Subantarctic Islands. It's not ideally located for this and travellers should not expect a display every night, but the magnetic pole's offset helps and it's a lot cheaper than taking a boat into Antarctic waters.

  •    Rakiura National Park Visitor Centre15 Main Road, Stewart Island +64 3 219 0009, e-mail: . Mon - Fri: 8:30 am – 4:30 pm, Weekends: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm. Department of Conservation (DOC) office in Oban, with a small exhibition and information counter.
  •    Rakiura Museum9 Ayr Street. Oct-May: Mo-Sa 10:00-13:30, Su 12:00-14:00; Jun-Sep: Mo-Fr 10:00-12:00, Sa 10:00-13:30, Su 12:00-14:00. Volunteer run museum with an interesting historical and nature collection.

Do[edit]

Walking is a popular activity and walks range from a few minutes and easy (Fuschia Walk) to several days and challenging (Northwest Circuit). There are fishing trips available with a number of operators. Kiwi spotting [1].

A visit to Ulva Island Open Sanctuary. Partially private land and partially National Park, Ulva Island is possibly the closest to pristine of any area of New Zealand open to the public. Water taxis regularly make the short trip from Golden Bay, or visitors may choose to take a guide.

Penguins may be seen within the village in the evenings, as are long-tailed bats and occasionally even Kiwi. Sooty shearwaters nest on Ackers Point, and can be seen in late evening over the summer.

A Local's Tail10 Main Road (opposite the DOC office),  +64 27 867 9381, e-mail: . M-Sa 13:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00; Su 13:00, 14:00, 16:00. $10."A Local's Tail" is a quirky 40 minute movie about Stewart Island produced by Stewart Island Bunkhouse Theatre. Narrated and shown from the eyes of a dog it gives you a fascinating insight into the Island's history and heritage as well as more up-to-date footage. Don't forget a $2 coin for the popcorn machine and you can also purchase a small range of drinks, snacks and ice-cream.

Walking / hiking[edit]

You won't walk round the Island in a day. Even ten days tramping only skirts the northern third. Few people can claim to have seen anywhere near the whole of Stewart Island. There is much to see, even close to the only settlement of Oban. Come for a daytrip or stay longer, as there is a good range of accommodation. Some visitors from twenty years ago are still living here.

Terrain is rugged. Stewart Island is made of granite, some of the oldest rock in New Zealand. A wide range of minerals are present, though not in commercial quantities. Tin was mined at Port Pegasus for a few years in the 1890s. There's black iron sand on some beaches, others are white with quartz or red with garnet. Most beaches are gold, sparkling in the sun. Don't bother bringing a gold pan though: it's all "fool's gold"!

Paterson Inlet cuts the Island almost in half. This large expanse of water is popular for boat trips and recreational fishing and diving.

The climate is mild, and a trifle damp. Without rain, there wouldn't be a rainforest. The eastern lowlands are forest right to the water's edge. A canopy of kamahi is pierced by majestic rimu and miro. Lianes and lush fern growth adorn the bush interior.

The forest is a haven for bird-life, as there are fewer predators than on the mainland. Kaka, parakeets, tui, and bellbird give a wonderful dawn chorus in spring. New Zealand's national bird, the kiwi, is found all around the Island.

Seabirds abound offshore. Albatross, petrels, cormorants, gulls and blue penguins are common. Rarer species like yellow-eye penguins are also seen often.

Mason Bay, on the Island's West Coast is much different. It's a 20 km crescent of sandy beach, with huge sand-hills and tussock and scrub in place of forest. This is the place to watch the white-horses charge ashore in a screaming westerly gale.

Popular trails are the 36 km Rakiura Track which takes 3 days and the 125 km North-West Circuit which takes 7–12 days.

Birdwatching[edit]

Ulva Island (in relative isolation but with easy access from Stewart Island) is a sanctuary for both birds and plants, holding species that are rare or have died out on the mainland of New Zealand. In 1997, the island was declared rat-free, following an eradication program, and extirpated birds have been reintroduced to the island. The birds include the South Island saddleback (tieke), yellowhead (mohua) and Stewart Island robin (toutouwai). In addition to birds the general forest health has improved significantly. Many orchids can now be seen that are difficult to find on mainland Stewart Island

Mason Bay, on the west coast, is possibly the best place in New Zealand (and therefore the world) to see the remarkable flightless kiwi in the wild.

Kiwi Wilderness Walks offer an all inclusive guided walk that starts in Invercargill, spends a night at Mason Bay then walk and water taxis across the island to Halfmoon Bay.

  • Sails Ulva Island Tours11 View St +64 3 219-1151. Four hours of exploration of Ulva Island Open Sanctuary. The guide was one time Ranger in Charge of Stewart Island, and has over 40 years Ulva Island experience. Party size is usually less than 7, and tour includes all transfers. $115.
  • Ulva's Guided WalksThe Fernery, Main Road +64 3 219-1216. Explore Ulva Island with Ulva's Guided Walks on Stewart Island, New Zealand. Ulva's Guided Walks was named by the owner, Ulva Goodwillie - who just happens to be named after the Island. Ulva is a direct descendant of the first Maori peoples of Stewart Island and is passionate and very knowledgeable about this special place.

Deer hunting[edit]

White-tailed deer may be found in moderate numbers all over Stewart Island/Rakiura. Red deer are found in moderate numbers in the Northwest. Permits are required for all hunting on Stewart Island/Rakiura and must be applied for in advance from the Department of Conservation or the Rakiura Maori Land Trust. Hunting blocks can be booked via the DOC Website or the Rakiura Maori Land Trust.

Sea kayaking[edit]

Diving[edit]

Fishing[edit]

  • Lo Loma Fishing Charters (boat leaves from Halfmoon Bay Wharf),  +64 3 219-1141, e-mail: . Learn to fish the traditional way with handlines; no rods here! It's a lot easier and tourists are always surprised at how quick it is to catch some Blue Cod! Richard "Squizzy" Squires' family has always lived on Stewart Island and he knows the waters here like the back of his hand. If there are fish to be caught, he will take you there! Also a great chance to see seabirds in their natural environment; albatrosses, mollymawks, muttonbirds etc etc. $75 for a half-day fishing trip.

Buy[edit]

Stewart Island is no shopper's paradise, but visit The Fernery for art and giftware, Glowing Sky for T-shirts and Merino clothing. Stewart Island Experience, Department of Conservation , Stewart Island Flights and Stewart Island Four Square all have a wide variety of souvenirs and postcards. Stewart Island Tees are available from the Flight Centre.

Eat[edit]

  • Bird on a PearElgin Terrace (above the ferry terminal at the wharf),  +64 3 219-1019, e-mail: . 07:00–15:30. Jo and Wayne have recently re-opened the cafe above the wharf specialising in home-made goodies and local seafood. The oyster soup is a must-have! Catering and birthday cakes are other services they offer. $2–20.
  • Kai Kart. Currently closed
  • South Sea HotelElgin Terrace (on the waterfront),  +64 3 219-1059, e-mail: . 07:00–20:00 although maybe longer or shorter hours depending on the season. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner you have the choice of dining in the restaurant or the bar. During summer hours the kitchen also offers a short cafe menu during the afternoon. Bookings are strongly recommended in the summer months. $10-40.
  • Stewart Island Four SquareElgin Terrace +64 3 2191 069. Winter: 07:30–18:30, summer: 07:30–19:00. A fully stocked supermarket is great for people wishing to cater for themselves and they also offer a great range of home-made sandwiches, hot pies, ice-creams etc $2-10.

Drink[edit]

  •    South Sea HotelElgin Terrace (on the waterfront),  +64 3 219-1059, e-mail: . Licensed 11:00–03:00 although the bar closes earlier on quieter nights. The South Sea Hotel is the only pub in town and is the hub of the community. Drink prices are reasonable compared to the mainland; in a lot of cases actually cheaper. The bar has a Happy Hour Tu 17:00–18:30 and bar food is always available, or you can get a meal from the restaurant. Friday night is a great night to meet the locals and listen to their yarns. Sunday night is Quiz Night, starting at 18:30 promptly. It has been featured on TV, radio and in many newspapers. Registrations start at 18:00, but in the summer months the pub fills up rapidly, so it's recommended to go in about an hour before that to get a seat!

Sleep[edit]

There are a variety of accommodation options on Stewart Island - ranging from backpackers, motels, and bed and breakfasts to self catering/contained houses and lodges.

  • Bunkers Backpackers13 Argyle Street +64 3 219-1160. Bunkers backpackers is located only 100 m from the beach and pub, there's a comfy lunge with a fire and books, free tea and coffee and barbeque facilities. Locally owned and operated, Bunkers is also a member of the BBH network[2], so don't forget to bring your card for a discount on your room.
  • Kaka Retreat7-9 Miro Crescent +64 3 219-1252. Check-in: available from 2pm, check-out: 10:00. Kaka Retreat Stewart Island is nestled amongst native bush and birds. Accommodations range from studio apartments to group bookings for up to 24 people.
  • Kowhai Lane Lodge6 Kowhai Lane (guests are met on arrival),  +64 3 219-1151. Check-in: on arrival, check-out: 10:00. Kowhai Lane Lodge is Qualmark 4 star. All 4 guest rooms are centrally heated and en suite, with shared kitchen, dining and lounge. It has a harbour view. $195 per room.

Go next[edit]

  • New Zealand Subantarctic Islands – to the south and east (although you wouldn't generally leave from Stewart Island to get to them)
  • Chatham Islands – if you want to visit more remote and rugged islands, these lie to the east of the South Island (though you wouldn't leave from Stewart Island to get there)
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