Xining

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Xining at night

Xining (西宁; Xīníng; Tibetan: Sulang) is the capital of Qinghai Province and the capital of Xining City District, a prefecture of Qinghai.

Understand[edit]

The large city of Xining acts as one of the major gateways to the Tibetan Plateau. It is an ancient highland city on the Yellow River which offers many scenic spots and historical sites. Although the city itself has a strong Islamic flavor, as it is home to many Hui people, you will start getting a more Tibetan feel as you move away from the city.

Get in[edit]

By plane[edit]

Xining Airport (IATA: XNN), located 15km south, southeast of the city, has flights to Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Golmud, Guangzhou, Lhasa, Shanghai, Shenyang, Urumqi, and Xi'an. Shenzhen Airlines fly into Xining from Hong Kong.

The airport bus makes a run from somewhere in town 2 hours before the flight departs and heads back to the city centre whenever a flight lands. The bus stand is directly in front of the exit door. The 30min ride to/from the airport ¥21.

By train[edit]

Most useful train tickets are completely bought up by the Xining mafia many days before travel - buy well in advance (eg, be prepared to queue at 5 or 6 in the morning 5 days before travel), or find black market connections and be prepared for a premium that may be well in excess of the ticket price. (eg 1,500 yuan for a 500 yuan Lhasa ticket)

Xining's main station is now under renovation for the upcoming high-speed rail to Lanzhou and Urumqi. The temporary West Station is currently in use. Be aware that pickpockets operate outside the station near the crowded buses where the police do not go.

As of 2011, a metered taxi journey between Xining West (Xiningxi) Station and the center of town should be slightly less than 20 yuan - some local taxi drivers may refuse to take foreigners at meter rates.

  • Xi'an - takes about 12-14 hours
  • Golmud - takes about 14-16 hours
  • Lanzhou - takes about 3-5 hours
  • Lhasa - takes about 26 hours

By bus[edit]

LongDistance Bus Station is on Jianguo Road, on the other side of the river in view of the train station.

There are also buses for Golmud, Lhasa and Yinchuan at the western end of the square in front of the train station.

Get around[edit]

By bus[edit]

There are plenty of buses that get you around town. The most useful is bus #1 that runs through the centre of town along Dajie to the train/bus station. All fares are ¥1 regardless of distance.

By taxi[edit]

Taxis run on the meter (¥6 flagfall) but some drivers are open to negotiation, especially late at night.

See[edit]

North Mountain Temple Cliff.
  • North Mountain Temple (North of the city, bus 10 or 11 will take you there). Taoist Temple in the hills. At the moment a lot of it is closed for safety reasons. This includes the walkways between man-made caves in the mountain. There is a pagoda above, on the hill. From here there is a great view over the city. Temple ¥5; pagoda ¥2.
  • Dongguan Mosque (东关清真大寺; Dōngguān Qīngzhēndàsì), Dongguan Street (东关大街; Dōngguāndàjiē) (Bus 1, 2, 23).
  • Northern Ch'An Monastery. See the Taoist Tulou (Rammed-earth Pavilion)
  • Southern Ch'An Monastery.
  • Dongguan Monastery.
  • Datong Laoye Mountain Forest Zone.
  • Qinghai Provincial Museum. Nice place for those curious about Qinghai's history and ethnic relationships.
  • Tibetan Medicine MuseumNo.36 Jing'er Road, Chengdong District, Xining 810016, China.

Do[edit]

Buy[edit]

Handmade Tibetan Handicrafts can be bought at the AmdoCafe (see Eat section under Cafes).

Eat[edit]

Xining's main minority groups provide a large portion of the food on offer. The Hui, a broad term for Chinese Muslims, serve up spicy noodles, lamb kababs and flatbread (bing). Tibetan food choices are concentrated around the train station, mostly small places the serve momos and noodles and seat guests on small coaches.

Local Food[edit]

There is a restaurant area right next to the Shuijing Xiang Bazaar, in the center of the city, and throughout the evening and into the night there are many street stalls serving good food around Ximen and on the western side of Jianguo Road.

  • Mojia MarketMojia Lu (off Dong Dajia). 6AM-whenever. The front end of the market has many small snack stands selling spicy ground meat birds egg pizza-style bing (¥3), spicier Liangpi noodle (¥4.5) and mouth cooling bowl-set yoghurt with a creaming texture and slightly sour/citrus flavour (¥3). Further into the market mounds of dried fruit and nuts from the region can be bought by weight.

Western Food[edit]

Western food options are very slim, but not bad for a city so remote.

  • Casa Mia (卡萨米亚意大利餐厅), No.10-4 West Wu Si Road, Chengxi District (五四西路10-4) 0971-6311272. 10am-10pm. Great Italian restaurant in this otherwise western food oasis of Xining. The menu is expansive, and they even have brick-oven pizza. If you are craving decent western food, this is the place. Free WIFI. ¥30-150.
  • KFC (肯德基), Near the Wangfujing Shopping Mall, Xi Dajie 0971-8227987. 6am-10pm. There are a total of three KFC's in the city, but this is by far the most centrally located.

Drink[edit]

Cafes[edit]

The city is littered with small coffee shops, especially around the newer apartment complexes that are being developed. See below for some of the better ones.

  • AmdoCafeLedu Road (East of International Village),  8213127. 9AM-8PM. This coffee shop, which also offers AmdoCraft Tibetan Handicraft products, provides a relaxed, quiet atmosphere in which to sip and sample real, fresh-brewed coffee, or sup on steaming pastries, cakes, and cookies. The coffee is some of the most inexpensive real coffee in the area. Free WIFI.
  • Cafe Java47 Haiyan Road (海晏路47号9-1号铺) (Opposite of Culture Park),  0971-6314012. 8:30am-9:30pm. Expat couple from the UK opened this cafe in 2009. Excellent coffee and home-made food at a great price. Favourite dishes include Mexican Wraps, Chilli, Bagels of all kinds, Pancakes & Waffles with sweet or savoury toppings. Also a great place to meet other foreign residents or expats in Xining. Free wifi.
  • Green House CafeXiadu Avenue, Near Yangshan Villas 0971-8202710. Great little cafe opened up by an American expat in Xining. Relaxed atmosphere, good wifi, and, some say, the best coffee in the city. They have deserts and sandwiches as well.

Bars[edit]

A number of bars are located at the end of the city's main snack street. These tiny places each have only a dozen tables, and all offer extensive drink specials. Beer starts at ¥6 for a Tsingtao, but expensive imported liquor is also available. There is usually no cover charge.

  • Qilin Bay Bar Strip (Qilin Wan), Intersection of Kunlun West and Huanghe Road. A complex of bars by the riverside, built around an atrium. You can't see them from the road, but just below the bridge you will see a number of cars parked, with steps down into the park. About a half dozen or so small bars.
  • Culture Street Bar Strip (文化街酒吧), Culture Street (Wenhua Jie). A large complex with about two dozen bars over three different floors with an open center atrium. You can choose between more relaxed lounge bars, live music venues, or one or two bars that have dance floors on the ground floor.

Night Clubs[edit]

  • SOHO (苏荷酒吧), 116 Nanguan Street (West Side of Xining Stadium),  0971-8252991. 9pm-late. SOHO is Xining's most popular nightclub, usually busy past 2am most nights. Lots of tables and a bar, but there is no dancing. Music is mostly live. SOHO is a nightclub franchise in China, but this one apparently is an "unofficial club."
  • No. 88 Bar (88号酒吧), 7-1 Road, Across from the TCM Hospital (七一路中医院斜对面). Similar to SOHO bar, but a larger dance floor. Crowded on the weekends, but a bigger crowd at SOHO.

Sleep[edit]

Budget[edit]

There are dozens of small guesthouses near the train and long distance bus station. Look for the characters "招待所," which in this part of town are on every other building. Most places seem aimable to taking foreigners, and prices range from ¥10 in a grimy four-room bunk (expect the other occupants to smoke in the room all night long) to ¥100 for a deluxe double. More guesthouses can be found around the town's West Gate, or Ximen.

  • Lete Youth Hostel16th Floor, 5# Building, International Village Apartment +86 971 8202080, e-mail: . In 2011, the hostel has had new management and has undergone many new renovations to the rooms and bar area. Its cozy environment sits high on the 16th floor with beautiful views of the city and mountainous backdrop. It's within walking distance to many downtown shopping areas. The staff speaks English. There is a travel company upstairs that will organise trips in the local province and into the Tibetan Autonomous Region. Dorms ¥30, private rooms ¥120.
  • Qinghai Shuili Hotel (青海省水利宾馆; Qīnghǎishěng Shuǐlì Bīnguǎn), 18-8 Kunlun Road, Chengxi District (城西区昆仑路18-8号; Chéngxīqū Kūnlúnlù. Listed rates for doubles from ¥168, discounted from ¥128, no breakfast.
  • Home Inn (Xining Central Square) (如家快捷酒店 (西宁中心广场店); Rújiākuàijiéjiǔdiàn (Xīníngzhōngxīnguǎngchǎngdiàn)), Near west building of Ximen Gym, Chengzhong District (城中区西门体育馆西附楼; Chéngzhōngqū Xīméntǐyùguǎnxīfùlóu). Doubles from ¥199.

Mid-range[edit]

  • Jianyin Hotel55 West Street +86 971 8261561fax: +86 971 8261515.
  • Xining Tower61 Jianguo Road +86 971 8419991fax: +86 971 8419779.
  • Qing Hai Moslem Mansion (Three stars), 65 Qiyi Street +86 971 8138011fax: +86 971 8138900. Good hotel, near the railway station, heated in winter. Good restaurant, good American breakfast. ¥360.

Splurge[edit]

  • Yinlong Hotel (青海银龙酒店; Qīnghǎi Yínlóng Jiǔdiàn), 38 Huanghe Road, Chengxi District (城西区黄河路38号; Chéngxīqū Huánghélù) +86 971 6166666fax: +86 971 6167428, e-mail: . Five star hotel with rooms with free internet. Business center, beauty salon, ticket office, disco, billiards, fitness, massage and sauna available. Chinese and Western restaurants, coffee shop, bar and room service. Listed rates for doubles from ¥1,480, discounted from ¥1,080, including breakfast.
  • Qinghai Hotel (青海宾馆), No.158 Huanghe Road 0971-6148999. Recently renovated (2009). Rooms are spacious and clean. Good facilities and restaurants. A cheaper alternative to the Yinlong Hotel. ¥500-2,000.

Go next[edit]

Many train tickets are completely bought up by the Xining mafia days before travel - buy well in advance, or find black market connections and be prepared for a premium that may be in excess of the ticket price.

The new West train station is in use now. Be aware that pickpockets operate outside the station near the buses where the police do not go.

  • Ta'er Si (Kunbum) Monastery (塔爾寺) - one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist sites in China, in the village of Huangzhong.
  • Tongren -
  • Tu Minority Village - located at Weiyuanzhen Old Village, 32 km from Xining
  • Qinghaihu National Park (青海湖 - also called Lake Koko Nor) - this 5,694 km lake is the largest lake in China.
  • Guide (贵德) - Take a bus to this charming, predominantly tibetan village, beyond the southern mountains.

Trips from Xining travel agencies offer apparently cheap 60 yuan day trips to Qinghaihu National Park. This price does not include entry to 丹噶尔 old town (50 yuan), 赞普林卡 (40 yuan), 日月山(40 yuan) or the wharf at Qinghaihu (100 yuan) [the 'park' itself]. The last of these seems the most overpriced for what it is - but you are expected to pay. There may be a couple of forced shopping stops, including a minimum 30-minute wait at a jade/crystal sales outlet.

Routes through Xining
END  N Qing-Zang Railway icon.png S  Qinghaihu LakeLhasa


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