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Neo-classical buildings in Bitola

Bitola (Macedonian: Битола) is a grand old town that still bears the marks of its turn-of-the-century importance as a center for diplomacy – while also exemplifying the country’s time-honored cafe culture. Bitola is nicknamed “city of consuls” and is the second largest city in the Republic of Macedonia, with a population of nearly 100,000. Near the border with Greece, it straddles the Dragor River at the foot of Mount Pelister, in the Baba mountain range.

Understand

Bitola is quite nice, and it is favourite city for the Macedonians, since it has the most European atmosphere. It was a seat of consuls in the 19th century and with them they brought the European culture and influenced the local aristocracy, who started living in European fashon and building their houses in mixed neo-classical styles. Bitola is a nice place to visit since Pelister National Park is close, the ancient city of Heraklea is there, it has nice Ottoman architecture and 19th century romantic architecture, so some good examples of everything. It can all be done in a day including enjoying coffee on Shirok Sokak, but you have to put aside a separate day for Pelister National Park.

The friendly and helpful Tourist Information Office is on Ulice Sterio Georgiev, just a few metres from the clock tower (though it has at times been closed). There is a tourist map billboard on the city square (at the river end of Shirok Sokak), but this appears to be the only tourist information in the city out-of-season (October 2011).

History

There are important metal artifacts from the ancient period, from the necropolis of Crkvishte near the village of Beranci. Heraclea Lyncestis (Greek: Ηράκλεια Λυγκηστίς - City of Hercules upon the Land of the Lynx) was an important settlement from the Hellenistic period till the Middle Ages. It was founded by Philip II of Macedon by the middle of the 4th century BC, and named after the Greek demigod Heracles, whom Philip considered his ancestor. As an important strategic point it became a prosperous city. The Romans conquered this part of Macedon in 148 BC and destroyed the political power of the city. The prosperity continued mainly due to the Roman Via Egnatia road which passed near the city. Several monuments from the Roman times remain in Heraclea, including a portico, thermae (baths), an amphitheater and a number of basilicas. The theatre was once capable to house around 3,000 people.

In the early Byzantine period (4th to 6th centuries AD) Heraclea was an important episcopal centre. Some of its bishops have been noted in the acts of the Church Councils as bishop Evagrius of Heraclea in the Acts of the Sardica Council from 343 AD. A Small and a Great (Large) basilica, the bishop's residence, a Funeral basilica near the necropolis are some of the remains of this period. Three naves in the Great Basilica are covered with mosaics of very rich floral and figurative iconography; these well preserved mosaics are often regarded as fine examples of the early Christian art period. Other bishops from Heraclea are known between 4th and 6th century AD. The city was sacked by Ostrogothic forces, commanded by Theodoric the Great in 472 AD and, despite a large gift to him from the city's bishop, it was sacked again in 479 AD.

It was restored in the late 5th and early 6th century. In the late 6th century the city suffered successive attacks by Slavic tribes. It was finally taken over by the Slavs and lost its importance by the end of the century.

In the 6th and 7th century the region around Monastiri experienced a demographic shift as more and more Slavic tribes settled in the area. They also built a defence fortress around the settlement. Monastiri was conquered and remained part of the First Bulgarian Empire from late 8th to early 11th century. The spreading of Christianity was assisted by St. Clement of Ohrid and Naum of Preslav in the 9th and early 10th century. Many monasteries and churches were built in the city.

In the 10th century, Monastiri was under the rule of tsar Samuil of Bulgaria. He built a castle in the town, later used by his successor Gavril Radomir of Bulgaria. The town is mentioned in several medieval sources. John Skylitzes's 11th century chronicle mentions that Emperor Basil II burned Gavril's castles in Monastiri, when passing through and ravaging Pelagonia. The second chrysobull (1019) of Basil II mentioned that the Bishop of Monastiri depended on the Archbishopric of Ohrid. During the reign of Samuil, the city was seat of the Bitola[citation needed] Bishopric. In many medieval sources, especially Western, the name Pelagonia was synonymous with the Bitola Bishopric, and in some of them Monastiri was known under the name of Heraclea due to the church tradition, namely the turning of Heraclea Bishopric into Pelagonian Metropolitan's Diocese. In 1015, tsar Gavril Radomir was killed by his cousin Ivan Vladislav, who declared himself tsar and rebuilt the city fortress. To celebrate the occasion, a stone inscription written in the Cyrillic alphabet was set in the fortress where the Slavic name of the city is mentioned: Bitol.

Following battles with tsar Ivan Vladislav, Byzantine emperor Basil II recaptured Monastiri in 1015. The town is mentioned as an episcopal centre in 1019, in a record by Basil II. Two important uprisings against Byzantine rule took place in the Monastiri area in 1040 and 1072. After the Bulgarian state was restored in late 11th century, Bitola was incorporated under the rule of tsar Kaloyan of Bulgaria. It was conquered again by Byzantium at the end of the 13th century, but became part of Serbia in the first half of the 14th century, after the conquests of Stefan Dušan.

As a military, political and cultural center, Monastiri played a very important role in the life of the medieval society in the region, prior to the Ottoman conquest in mid-14th century. On the eve of the Ottoman conquest, Monastiri (Monastir in Ottoman Turkish) experienced a great boom, having well-established trading links all over the Balkan Peninsula, especially with big economic centers like Constantinople, Thessalonica, Ragusa and Tarnovo. Caravans of various goods moved to and from Monastir. During Turkish rule it developed as a trading centre and the Turkish travel writer Evlija Celebija who visited Bitola in the middle of the 17th c. wrote that were 900 shops, 40 cafes, a bedesten, 70 mosques, a number of medreses (theological school) and a law school. Near the beginning of the 19th c, a large number of Vlahs from the Janina region in Greece settled in the city. During the 19th century, the city was at its peak, being the second largest city in the European part of the Ottoman empire and an important trading centre, with over 2000 stores with goods from Vienna, Paris, Leipzig, and London. Twelve consulates were opened in the city, and the consuls brought Western influences with them. Towards the end of the 19th century, Mustafa Kemal "Ataturk", the father of the modern Turkish nation, studied in Bitola at the military academy. Abdul Pasha Kerim, governor of the city for six years (1896-1902), accomplished much during his short term. He finished the drainage system and built the docks on the Dragor river, the city park, the theatre, and the ball hall. Milton Manaki, who in 1905 brought the first camera to the Balkans and made the first movies there, also lived and worked in Bitola. After the Balkan wars in 1913, when Serbia occupied present-day Macedonia, Bitola lost its importance to Skopje, which was named the capital of the province.

Get in

Širok Sokak street

Even though Bitola and Florina in Greece are very close to each other, there is no direct connection between them. The 30 km journey costs about €50 by taxi [2011]. Greek taxi drivers are not permitted to pick up a return fare in Macedonia. A cheaper (but riskier) option would be to get a Greek taxi to the border, then walk 800m between the border posts, and get a Macedonian taxi from the border.

Note that not all taxi trivers are willing to go from Bitola to Greece (more details under Florina)

By train

  • 1 Train Station (south of the city centre, near the end of Bitola Park). There are couple of trains connecting Bitola and Skopje that stop in Prilep and Veles. 

By bus

  • 2 Bus Station, Nikola Tesla (1.5 km south of the city centre, near the end of Bitola Park.). There are a dozen buses between Bitola and Skopje (3 hours) that stop in Prilep and Veles, and a couple of buses connecting Bitola and Ohrid (1.5 hours) that stop in Resen. 

Bus to/from Sofia, Bulgaria: Sofia -> Bitola 20:00->03:00, Bitola -> Sofia 20:00->05:30

Get around

Walking is the best way to get around Bitola as all the sites are in a line one after another: first the old bazaar, then the city square, then Shirok Sokak street, then the city park, and last the ancient city of Heraklea.

By taxi

Average cost €1 - 2.50.

By bus

Cheapest way to get somewhere in Bitola is by bus which costs flat rate of €0.30.

The most useful bus line is #1. Although there are two categories of buses #1, the differences are non important as they both stop at the railway station, near hospital and near the medical high school.

Other bus lines go to suburbs and nearby villages (Brusnicka, Bukovski, Dovledzik, Streliste, Dulie, Orizari, Dihovo, Nizhe Pole, Bistrica).

See

  • 1 Old Bazaar, Filip II Makedonski. – even though it is smaller than the one in Skopje, the bazaar in Bitola is cleaner and much more taken care of, so it is purported to be the most beautiful old bazaar in Macedonia, yet it lacks the hustle and bustle of the bazaar of Skopje, even feeling like a ghost town in parts (maybe the shop owners are on vacation in summer?). It has pleasant small squares with water fountains and many Ottoman monuments in and around it. A large portion of the old bazaar was demolished in the 1950s for the city square to be built. Fortunately the main monuments were left standing. 
  • Deboj Amam. Turkish Bath built in the 17th century. 
  • 2 Bezisten. Built the 16th century, but later reconstructed in neo-baroque style and the city market 
  • 3 Jeni Mosque, Shirok Sokak b.b., ☏ +389 47 221915. Built in 1558 by Kadi Mahmud Efendi, the diameter of the dome is 19 m, and the minaret is 39 m high. This mosque houses the city art gallery. 
  • 4 Isak Beg Mosque. - built in 1508 by judge Isak Celebi Ibni Asa, the diameter of the dome is 26 m, and the minaret is 45 m high. 
Clock Tower
Catholic Cathedral on Shirok Sokak Street
  • 5 Clock Tower. The clock tower is the pride of the people from Bitola. It was first built in 1664 but got its present appearance in the 19th century, and is 30 meters high. 
  • Ajdar Kadi Mosque. One of the most attractive monuments of the Islamic architecture in Bitola. It was built in 1561-1562, as the project of the famous architect Sinn Mimar, ordered by the Bitola kadija Ajdar-kadu. The mosque was abandoned and over time, it was heavily damaged, but, the recent restoration and conservation works, have restored, to a certain extent, the original appearance to the mosque. 
  • 6 Hasan Baba Mosque, Road Sterjovski Gjorgji - Dzhodzha (Стерјовски Ѓорѓи - Џоџа). 
  • 7 Shirok Sokak Street (former Maršal Tito). A pedestrian street lined with nice colourful romantic and neo-classical buildings. It is divided into three parts and even though the first part has the best preserved buildings it is worth walking all the way to the end. The street is very lively and lined with cafes which are excellent for relaxing and people-watching, especially since the girls from Bitola are known as the most beautiful in Macedonia and they love to parade up and down the street dressed in their Sunday best. In the first section check out the Catholic Cathedral. Shirok Sokak ends with the old barracks, where the military academy where Atatürk studied was situated, and which today serves as the city museum. Opposite it stands the ball hall. Across the street as a continuance of Shirok Sokak the City Park stands, where the old Sokolana (physical education building) for the students of the former military academy is situated. For more nice houses walk in the streets left of Shirok Sokak. 
  • Bitola eparchy, Duro Dakovik Street. 
  • Fountain, the top end of Shirok Sokak (near the clock tower). a "son et lumiere" performance at 9PM.. 
  • 8 St. Bogorodica Church, Guro Gakovik (Ѓyро Ѓаковиќ б.б.) steet, ☏ +389 47 236 287. A small basilica church built in 1870. This church is a triple flight church with an octagonal cupola on the west side. Under the west entry (door) there is a magnificent iconostasis made by a master woodcarver from Mijak. 
  • 9 NI Institute and Museum, Св. Климент Охридски BB, ☏ +389 47 233187. 
  • Consulates, vary first section of Shirok Sokak, on the streets Leninova, Kiril and Metoi and 11 Oktomvri.. The consulates were probably the most beautiful houses in Bitola, and they are all situated in a half circle. On Leninova Street check out the Russian consulate and the old theological high school. On Kiril and Metodi Street are the British, the Serbian, the French, the Greek and the Austrian consulates (I don’t know where the Italian, the Bulgarian and American consulate stand). Most interesting is the British consulate, which was the first one to be built and is a combination of traditional architecture and neo-classical decorations. 
  • 10 Holy Trinity, Nikola Tesla b.b./Branko Radichevikj, ☏ +389 47 230 199. 
  • 11 St. Dimitrie Church, 11 Oktomvri Street. Is the cathedral church of the city and the most beautiful example of the so-called “revival period” churches in Macedonia. Turks didn’t allow building of new churches during their occupation, but as the empire was weakening in the 18th century they started giving permissions for building of churches to keep the population happy. There were many rules to be followed, like the exterior had to be without decorations and the floor of the church had to be at least one metre below the ground so the church wouldn’t dominate the skyline of the city. It was built in 1830, as a three-naved basilica with galleries and five chapels. While they had to keep the exterior modest the interior is lavishly decorated with woodwork. The huge icon screen was made in 1845. 
  • Along the Dragor River. Many nice buildings can be seen on a walk along the quay of Dragor river, including Josip Broz Tito High School and the building of the dean of Bitola University. 
  • 12 Heraclea (Heraclea Lyncestis, Хераклеа Линкестис), Street Bukovska (a comfortable 20-min walk south of the bus station; frequent signs confirm the way. No shops on the way or near the site, though, so you may want to buy some water while in the bus station), ☏ +389 47 235 329. Founded in the middle of the 4th century by Phillip II, the father of Alexander the Great, Heraclea Lyncestis ("the city of Hercules on the land of the lynx"; Lyncestis being an ancient moniker for Upper Macedonia, mountains of which are still home to a number of lynx), this is the only site in the country that is actually associated with the ancient Macedonians, although most of the ruins that can be seen today date back to the Roman and the early Christian period. Only a small portion of the city has been unearthed, including a theatre, two water fountains, a courthouse, baths, the bishop's palace and two basilicas (but, save for the theatre, you'll need a lot of imagination to visualize how these buildings looked like in their heyday, as all that is left are their foundations). What actually worth seeing on the site are the mosaics of the big basilica, made in the 5th century. The floor mosaic in the narthex is the most complete presentation of the world as they understood it back then. In the centre of a rectangular field there is a fountain out of which a grapevine comes (as a symbol of Christ's teachings) and peacocks and deer are gathered around (as symbol of eternal life), meaning if you accept the teaching of Christ you’ll have eternal life. On the left and on the right there are 5 trees rich with fruits with birds flying around (representing the garden of Eden and the afterlife), and a huge red dog called Kerber (Cerberus) is guarding the entrance. Below the trees, animals like deer are presented attacked and eaten by wild animals (presenting the suffering of the Christian soul in the earth life). The field is surrounded by water with medallions in which 28 water animals are presented. The mosaic has been made with little stones in 27 different colours (the only “richer” mosaic is found in Pompeii - a wall mosaic made of stones in 32 colours). There is a small museum (no extra fee) on the grounds with very few artifacts (more or less limited to a couple of ancient stone masks) and a nice scale model of the city at its peak. If you are already in Bitola, Heraclea is probably worth a visit, but if you have already been to much better known sites of antiquity around the Mediterranean basin, keep in mind that this place leaves much to be desired—but, hey, where else has such a romantic name? - A leisurely stroll around the ruins will take 45–50 minutes at most. Most of the site is inaccessible for wheelchair users. 100 den, photography permit is for 300 den extra.. 
  • 13 German Military Cemetery (NW). 
  • 14 St. Athanasius the Great Church, General Vasko Karangjelevski. 
  • 15 City Hall Bitola, Boulevard 1st of May (Булевар 1-ви Мај) 61, ☏ +389 47 234 234. 
  • Museum of rarities „Filip“, village Krklino (5 km of Bitola), ☏ +389 (0)47 286 666, . Features a big collection of antique cars, as well as some old weaponry, music instruments and traditional clothes. 

Do

Jeni Mosque
  • Bitola Metro Zoo, Tumbe Kafe (Тумбе Кафе b.b.) street, ☏ +389 47 222 956. 
  • 1 City Park, Gradsko Šetalište. 
  • 2 Culture House, Pece Matichevski б.б. former Leninova. 
  • 3 Olympic Swimming Pool, City Promenade. 
  • 4 The Champions Park, Gradsko Šetalište. 
  • 5 Sport Hall for Children. 
  • 6 Stiv Naumov Park, Pecő (Пецо Божиновски). 

Events

  • The International Cinematographers Film Festival "Manaki Brothers" - the festival is a member of the ECFF/European Coordination of the film festivals and has precious collaboration with it. The main part of the festival's programme belongs to “CAMERA 300” - Official Competition of Long Feature Films from the most recent European and world production, whose Directors of Photography contend for the Golden, Silver and Bronze "CAMERA 300", awarded by the festival's International Jury. Held on a third week of September every year since 1979.
  • Interfest - an international festival of classical music, held 2–12 October every year. In 2006, the festival celebrated its 14th anniversary. The 10-day festival gathers prominent musicians and renowned soloists from all European cultural centres.
  • BitFest - a music festival with over 100 events takes place from the 2nd half of June to the end of August.
  • Bitola Shakespeare Festival presents Shakespeare plays and adaptations played by theater troupes from different countries. Usually takes place on 19-25 July.

Buy

Wide Alley (Macedonian: Sirok Sokak) or Marsal Tito is the street where you will find any kind of clothes, books, wines, antique items and jewelry, and decorations for home.

  • 1 Vero, Ignjat Atanasovski(Игњат Атанасовски b.b.) (SW), ☏ +389 47 258 288. 
  • 2 New Bazaar, General Vasko Karangjelevski (Генерал Васко Каранѓелевски b.b.) (SW). Elektromak (+389 47 521976) 
  • 3 Green Market, Road Sterjovski Gjorgji - Dzhodzha (Стерјовски Ѓорѓи - Џоџа). 

Eat

Bitola also has a good selection of bars, pubs and restaurants with fair prices.

  • Grne. Is recommended, near the clock tower, local specialties, grill. 
  • 1 Kus Kus, Sts. Cyril and Methodius. Salads, French kitchen, local specialties. 
  • Pita Giro. Best Giro in Bitola. 
  • Pizza Bure. Has the most tasty pizzas in Bitola. 
  • Ravenna. Excellent Italian fare, on Shirok Sokak St, below the Catholic Cathedral 
  • Art Caffe. Elegant food, e.g. popular Macedonian baked pasta (called "Mekici") . Also sweets, for instance, cheesecake, or Nutella cake. pasta 0.25 cents, sweets 1 - 2 euros. 
  • Manaki Lounge Bar (formerly "Solun"). One of the oldest restaurants in town. Offers delicious food, decorated in a modern style. 2 - 10 euros. 
  • Belvedere (In the famous building "Staklenata" (it means the Glass building)). Quiet atmosphere. 1 - 10 euros for the drinks, and 4 - 25 euros for the food. 

Drink

Try local beers - Skopsko and Zlaten dab (Golden Oak), local brendy called "rakija" (Antika, Antika 5, Bovin). Macedonia is famous for its wines, and you should never leave the country without trying or buying. There are a lot of varietal wines such as Merlot, Pinot Noar, Riesling, but you should try the local ones red wine Vranec and white ones Traminec and Temjanika. Produced in the Republic of Macedonia, the Vranec wine T'ga za Jug is semi-dry and ruby-red in color. It has been described as being similar in taste to the Italian or Californian Barbera. You can have it in Special selection or Limited edition.

Pubs

  • Porta Jazz. Coffee and a night pub. Like the name says it offers a nice jazz atmosphere. The pub is designed in retro and modern textures. 
  • Kamarite. This is a coffee and night pub. Kamarite and Porta Jazz are official coffee places for Brothers Manaki film festival and Bitola Fashion Week. 

Night Clubs

Bitola has good night life and offers good parties, except for minors; people under 18 are not permitted to enter the clubs.

  • Intermezzo. It offers great parties for the weekends and nicely atmosphere for the daytime. The music selection is always different: pop, ex-yu (music from Yugoslav pop and rock groups), DJ selections, romantic music. 
  • Positive Night Club (This club works on seasons: the summer night club is near Olympic pool of Bitola and the winter club is part of the Center of the culture Bitola near Intermezzo.). This is one of the most visited clubs exclusively on summer time. Music hits, R'n'B and Hip Hop music are part of the music sections. 
  • Rascekor. It is also one of the most visited clubs. Music: Macedonian pop, Serbian pop, turbofolk, music hits. 

Sleep

  • 1 Hostel Domestika, Ivo Lola – Ribar (A few hundred meters from the train/bus station), ☏ +389 47 230715. 400 den or €7 p/p night, for a room with lots of space. Only open during the Holiday season -mid June till mid September. 
  • 2 BOEM Guest House, Hostel, Nikola Tesla bb (next to Hostel Domestika), ☏ +389 75 427 268. 
  • 3 Hotel de Niro, Sts. Cyril and Methodi (Св. Кирил и Методиј) 5. - is located in the very heart of Bitola. It contains 6 double, 7 triple and 2 luxury equipped suites. The hotel is 10 km from Pelister National Park. Every room is built in the old spirit and possesses all conveniences. 
  • Shanti Hostel Bitola, Str. Slavko Lumbarko 15, ☏ +389 47 552034, . In historical, quiet and central area. 15 minutes to the bus and train station. The old part of the city is 2 minutes walk from the hostel. Young, friendly and English speaking staff, free city maps. Breakfast included in the price. Free bus and train station pick ups. 
  • Chola Guest House, ☏ +389 47 224 919, +389 75 522 555. Large peach colored building on 80 Stiv Naumov street, across the street from DVD Club "Dju". Very nice rooms with TV and free wifi. €13/night. 
  • 4 Hotel Epinal, Shirok Sokak б.б., ☏ +389 47 224777. This four star hotel is the finest and largest in all of Bitola. It is located near Shirok Sokak Street, and is the tallest building in Bitola. 
  • 5 Hotel Tokin House, Marx i Engels 7 (OOpp. Hotel Epinal), ☏ +389 75 447496, fax: +389 47 232309. Very central - just 20m from Shirok Sokak Street. sglDbl €25/40 (2007) including breakfast.. 
  • 6 Via Apartments, Elpida Karamandi 4, ☏ +389 75 246261. 
  • 7 Hotel Viktorija, near Magnolia Square (opposite the Cultural Center Magaza.), ☏ +389 47 609442. 27th March 10. Exclusive location in the centre of the city 
  • 8 Villa Diamond, 11-ti Oktomvri 4, ☏ +389 47 251 632. next to Sv Dimitri. Recently modernised. Nice double room with ensuite and breakfast €35 [June 2010] 
  • 9 Hotel Kapri (W 2.5 km), ☏ +389 47 256 500. 506 б.б. 

Learn

  • St. Clement of Ohrid University is one of four state universities in Macedonia. It is located mainly in Bitola, but has other institutes in Ohrid and Prilep. It was founded on 25 April 1979, but the name St. Clement of Ohrid was not given until late 1994. The current number of enrolled students exceeds 15,000.

Cope

Consulates

Post

  • 3 Macedonia Post - Bitola (Next to Bank). Безистен б.б. ,+389 47 212 526 

Go next

Mt Pelister, a part of the Baba mountain range that overlooks Bitola

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