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Khmelnytskyi (Ukrainian: Хмельницький Khmel'nyts'kyi, Russian: Хмельницкий) is a city in the Podillia region, Western Ukraine. The city has a population of roughly 290,000.

Understand

While the city is located in western Ukraine it appears that people in Khmelnytskyi don't speak Ukrainian exclusively (as is generally the case in the nearby city of Ternopil) Many in Khmelnytskyi speak Russian as their first language, it appears that both Ukrainian and Russian can be used interchangeably in Khmelnytskyi.

Get in

There are frequent trains from Kiev to Khmelnytskyi, keep alert because Khmelnytskyi isn't the final destination but rather one stop along the way and you don't want to end up in Ternopil or Lvov by accident. However the carriage attendant should inform you (in Russian or Ukrainian) when the train is approaching your stop. A good idea is to know your time of arrival and set your phones alarm 30 minutes beforehand.

  • 1 Khmelnytskyi train station (Залізничний вокзал Хмельницький), Proskurivska str., 92 (East), +380 382 694101. This is rather drab and depressing as can often be the case with train stations in eastern Europe and as with bus and train stations worldwide they can often attract people of a dubious nature especially if you arrive at night so best to get away into the city once you arrive, taxis wait just outside the exit. - Trains to Ternopil, Kiev, Lvov. +380 382 79511, Cash desk for advance sale of railway tickets: +380 382 694101
  • 2 Advance sale of railway tickets (Каса попереднього продажу залізничних квитків), Podilska, 25 (NW), +380 382 659835.
  • 3 Khmelnytskyi Central Bus Station (Центральний автовокзал), Vinnytske highway, 23, +380 382 789357. Buses to/from Kiev. +phone=+380 382 789355
  • 4 Khmelnytskyi Bus Station #2 (Автовокзал №2), Str. Shevchenka, 66, +380 382 795448.
  • 5 Khmelnytskyi Bus Station #3 (Автовокзал №3), Str. Prymakova, 29 (Near to train station), +380 382 652124.

Get around

Taxis are as with every other Ukrainian city widely available, a trip within the city should cost no more than 20UAH but if you are a foreigner you may, as with many other cities in the world, be taken the "scenic route", even if this does happen it may cost an extra 10UAH so not too unreasonable all the same. However not being a tourist destination it is unlikely that this will happen yet it might. Just make sure the meter is running.

See

Churches

The city centre is relatively compact and can be easily explored on foot. If you want a tourist city with a multitude of attractions then Khmelnytskyi isn't for you, if you want an authentic Ukrainian city with generally friendly people, good prices and fewer rip offs than in the usual tourist centres then Khmelnytskyi is a good spot.

  • 1 Church of Christ of King of Universe (Римо-католицька церква Христа Царя Всесвіту), Myru ave., 55 (N). Roman Catholic Church
  • 2 Nativity of the Virgin Church (Собор Різдва Пресвятої Богородиці), Vul. Soborna (Соборна вул.), 12? (Center). In 1670's in this place stood a small wooden church. In 1835 construction began on the cathedral. In 1930's removed from church bells to the needs of industrialization, and in 1937 the temple was closed. Than used as a warehouse and later as an archive room. In 1990 reopened.
  • 3 Temple of Michael (HHram Arkhystratyga Michayela. Храм Архістратига Михаїла), Str. Kurchatova, 4a (W), +380 382 551759.
  • 4 Sviato-Pokrovskyi Cathedral (Свято-Покровський кафедральний собор), Str. Volodymyrska, 113 (Center), +380 382 650322.
  • 5 Church of Saint George (Церква Святого Георгія Победоносца), Str. Franka Ivana, +380 382 656055. The temple was built as a regimental church of 46 th Infantry Regiment of Dnieper.
  • 6 Church of Immaculate heart of the Blessed Virgin Maria (Римо-католицька церква Непорочного серця Пресвятої Діви Марії), Str. Pilotska, 8/1, +380 382 740071. Roman Catholic Church
  • 7 Cathedral of Saint Andrew (Собор святого Апостола Андрія Первозванного), Kozatska, 69, +380 382 720830. built in the late XIX century. as the regimental church of the 35 th of Belgorod Dragoons, who in 1880 was transferred to Proskurov. Regimental church operated until 1920. Since 1920's used as a gym. In 1991 service was resumed in a restored Orthodox church.

Museums

  • 8 Regional Museum (Краєзнавчий музей), Vul. Podilska (Подільська вул.), 12.
  • 9 City History Museum (Музей історії міста Хмельницького), Vul. Proskurivska (Проскурівська вул.), 30.
  • 10 Art Museum (художній музей), Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська ), 47, +380 382 656115, . M- Sa 09:00-18:00.
  • 11 Museum of Proskurivs'koho Underground, Vul. Shevchenka ( Шевченка вул), 3/1 (East). Partizan museum

Monuments

  • 12 Fountain "Baron Munchausen", Vul Kamyanetska (Кам'янецька вул.) at #48 (yard).

Do

Parks

  • 1 Dendropark Podillia (Дендропарк Поділля), highway Starokostiantynivs'ke (N).
  • 2 Mykhailo Chekman Park (Парк ім. Михайла Чекмана), Str. Proskurivskoho Pidpillia (W). The biggest green area in the city
  • 3 Park of Taras Shevchenkо (Сквер им. Т. Шевченко), Str. Hrushevskoho Mykhaila (Center). For more than a hundred years of its shady avenues and manicured flower gardens delight the eye with the townspeople. Over the 15-18th centuries, this area was actually the outskirts of the ancient Proskurov settlement. - In 1824, this taken by a large trade area. Part of the oak trees cut down along the perimeter of the square built shops and warehouses, and the center left no room for trade carts. The Square/Park named Bread and became the main venue for trade fairs and in Proskurov. - Proskurov gradually grew, and soon the area became Bread is too small to hold fairs. In 1888, city officials decided to move the main shopping area close to the train station. Grain area given to the quartering of the 46 units of the Dnieper Infantry Regiment. Shops and warehouses converted under the barracks, and the spaces fairgrounds was used as a parade ground. In 1992, this park was named about an unveiled monument to Taras Shevchenko.
  • 4 Pioneerskiy garden (Піонерський сквер), Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська), (Center).
  • 5 Park of Ivan Frankо (Парк ім. Івана Франка), Vul. Proskurivs'ka. 66/1 (Center).
  • 6 Park of Tank Crew (Парк Танкістів), Vul. Kamyanetska, 98 (S).

Theatres

  • 7 Khmelnitsky Puppet Theatre (Khmelnitskiy Akademichniy Oblasniy Teatr Lyalyok, Хмельницький Академік театр ляльок), Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська), 46.
  • 8 Cinema Shevchenka, Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська ), 40.
  • 9 City Culture House, Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська), 35.

Further afield

Medzhybizh Castle
  • 6 Izyaslav village (n 108 km). Main sights : Bernardines monastery (монастир бернардинців), 1600's; St.Joseph missionaries church + cells (костел місіонерів св.Йосифа), 1750, Sanguszkos' estate, 1650.
  • 7 Orlovskis' estate, Maliivtsi village (Cадиба Орловських) (South 60 km). Built in 1900's
  • 8 Medzhybizh Castle (Меджибі́зький замок, Medzhybiz'kyi zamok) (East 39 km). Built as a bulwark against Ottoman expansion in the 1540s, became one of the strongest fortresses of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland in Podolia. Renovated in 19th century.
  • 9 Letychiv Castle and Dominicans monastery (замок і домініканський монастир) (East 52 km). Built in 1600's
  • 10 Sharivka village (Шарівка) (S 34 km). Protection of the Virgin church-fortress (Покровська церква-фортеця), 14-16th C., 1773
  • 11 Samchyky estate remains in Slavuta (Cадиба Сангушків,Славута) (N 120 km). Built in 1820.
  • 12 Scheschelei estate in Samchyky (садиба Чечелей, с.Самчики) (NE 61 km). Built in 19th C. - Now, it is a museum
  • 13 Sutkivtsi village church-fortress (Сутківці) (S 34 km). Protection of the Virgin church-fortress (Покровська церква-фортеця), 1467
  • 14 Trinity monastery in Satanivska Slobidka village (Свято-Троїцький монастир і церква Сатанівська Слобідка) (SW 55 km). Built in 16-18th C. Monastery complex consists of the gate bell with cells, gates and fences, rebuilt in 1744 in Baroque style. On three sides it is surrounded by two meter thick walls, up to 6 m high.
  • 15 Castle of Dukes Ostrozkyi in Starokostyantyniv town (замок князів Острозьких) (North 40 km). Built in 1561-1571

Dental tourism

Ukraine is increasingly becoming a destination for dental tourism, specifically Kiev, but people may also be interested in dental treatments in Khmelnytskyi as the prices when compared to western Europe, North America and elsewhere are extremely reasonable, prices are also cheaper than in Kiev itself. An example being endodontic treatments (specifically root canal treatment) which in dental clinics in Khmelnytskyi can be completed for roughly €50 in total (this price is for a molar tooth, pre-molars are even cheaper) This includes anaesthesia, x-ray(s), the procedure itself along with the use of "gutta percha" and of course a composite filling. One such dental clinic is almost directly across from a city bus station (it is unknown whether this is the main bus station), rather uniquely it is called "Dental Surgery" at 6, Soborna Street, Khmelnytskyi. Tel: +380 382651660. Look out for the large sign with a tooth on it. The clinic looked clean both inside and outside, the surgical room can be seen from the street and looked as modern as any in the West (although the writer didn't have any dental work done) No English is spoken so you may need to have a Ukrainian friend or interpreter accompany you unless you speak some Ukrainian or Russian or else put your faith in hand gestures and a phrasebook.

Buy

There is a large newly built shopping centre with a well stocked western style supermarket at the edge of the city. A taxi to it from the city centre should cost roughly 10UAH/15UAH.

  • 1 'City Centr' Shopping centre, Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська ), 55-57.
  • 2 Central department Store (Центральний універмаг), Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська ),50, +380 382 787575.
  • 3 Atrium Shopping centre (ТЦ АТРІУМ,), Vul. Proskurovskoho Podpolya (ул. Проскуровского Подполья), 63.
  • 4 Dytyachyy svit (Children's World) Shopping center (Торговельний центр "Дитячий світ"), Vul. Proskurivska (Проскурівська вул.), 4/1.
  • 5 Lybid-Plaza - Hotel-Entertainment-Shopping Center (Торгово-розважальний готельний комплекс "Либідь Плаза"), Vul. Kamyanetska (Камянецька вул.), 25 (Center). Wi-Fi
  • 6 Food Market (Продуктовий ринок), Primakova (Примакова вул.), ~40.
  • 7 Magnit Shopping Center (Торговельний центр Магніт), Vul. Podilska (Подільська вул.), 21 (Center). Wi-Fi

Eat

In the basement of Hotel Central (Hotel Centralny) there is an eatery open to guests and non-guests alike offering nice, simple food at very good prices. There are numerous restaurants throughout the city.

Drink

There are a number of cafes, bars and nightclubs in the city. If you are a foreigner people may wonder what you are doing in their city (as it is not a tourist city) and may view you with some amusement. Be friendly, polite, try your hand at speaking a few words of Russian or Ukrainian and things should go ok. Keep an eye on what you drink and how much you drink, it's quite possible the locals are used to drinking more than you are! In a bar/pub a vodka (Ukrainian brand but just as good as any imported brand) should cost a maximum of 10UAH, most likely this price is for 100ml. Prices tend to be a little higher in nightclubs but not excessively. It should also be possible to buy a bottle of vodka in a nightclub, either .5lt or .7lt, for a reasonable price, under 100UAH.

Sleep

Hotel Centralny (Hotel Central) at 5, Gagarin Street (near the centre) Tel: +380 382657759. No website (although some basic information and even some photos of this hotel can be found on the net however for best prices book directly with the hotel) Very minimal English, if any. This tourist class hotel offers the best priced hotel rooms in the city. Prices direct from the hotel start at 150UAH for a passable en-suite single room with tv (no English language stations but possibly some music stations) and breakfast (you'll be given a voucher for breakfast which can be had in the basement eatery) The en-suite isn't exactly to western standard (old shower but with hot water, possibly leaking pipe from sink, no sink stopper, dim lighting) Double rooms which are roughly double the price may be a little better. Apparently the hotel has free wifi but it's unknown whether this is simply in the lobby or also in the rooms.

Connect

An alternative for internet should the free internet at any hotel not work or should no internet be available is a mobile broadband dongle which you attach to your netbook/laptop can be purchased from MTS (a mobile/cell phone provider with stores all over Ukraine including 10 stores in Khmelnytskyi) for 399UAH and when topped up by 8UAH it gives unlimited broadband access for 24 hours. MTS has national coverage so the dongle will provide you with internet all over Ukraine and not just in Khmelnytskyi of course. If you already have a dongle from your home country this most likely will not work with an MTS SIM card but there is a chance it would, you could try before forking out 399UAH. The basic mobile broadband SIM pack on its own costs 60UAH with preloaded credit of 20UAH (prices as of Dec. 2011)

Scope

  • Tourist information center (Туристическое агентство Хмельницктурист, Khmelnitskturist Travel agency), Prybuzka, 6, +380 382 702495.

Go next

  • Kamianets-Podilskyi - S 100 km. Sights in this town: the Old castle(Старий замок), 12-19th c.; the Armenian church, 1490's; the Fortifications of town, 16-18th c.; the Russian gate, 17th c.; the Polish town council, 1390's; the Smotrych river canyon, the Cathedral, 1500-1750.


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