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B. B. D. Bagh (বিবাদী বাগ Bibādī Bāg), short of Benoy-Badal-Dinesh Bagh (বিনয়-বদল-দীনেশ বাগ Binaẏ-Bādal-Dīneś Bāg), is the colonial-era precinct of Kolkata. Formerly known as Dalhousie Square or simply Dalhousie, the precinct takes a visitor back to the British Raj era with nostalgic overtones. Centred around a rectangular pond, Dalhousie was the core of the British rule till 1911, and many of the city's important buildings are here, the old central business district (CBD) of the city.
This article also covers the Riverfront stretched up to Vidyasagar Setu. One of the most popular hangout zones in the city, the Riverfront consists of a promenade with scenic views of the Hooghly River and the skyline of Howrah.
Understand
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History
[edit]When the British arrived in Bengal, they decided to settle there, because it was less crowded than other neighbourhoods. They built the old Fort William here (at the place where the General Post Office now stands). After their victory in the Battle of Plassey in 1757, they built the new fort in Gobindapur. However, Dalhousie Square remained at the heart of what was then the 'White Town' of Kolkata. No Indian, rich or poor, dared to live in the area. They came for work during daytime and went back to 'Black Town' (North Kolkata) before sunset.
Dalhousie Square was built surrounding a rectangular pond called Lal Dighi (লালদীঘি Lāldīghi). There are several theories on the name of this pond. According to one theory, the pond turned red or crimson colour due to Holi, and hence it was named "Lal Dighi" (literally "red pond"). Another theory says that the pond appeared red due to the reflection of the red colours of the old Fort William. With the Writers' Building occupying the north side of the pond and numerous commercial offices all around it, Dalhousie Square became the administrative and business centre of Calcutta. Even now, it stands out as a 'period piece'. After the independence of India, the square was named after three youngsters who dared to challenge British rule and died there in the 1930s.
Get in
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By metro
[edit]The Howrah Maidan—Esplanade section of Line 2 has a stop at 1 Mahakaran 2 
on Old Court House St, at the right side of Lal Dighi. The metro station is also served by bus (as B.B.D. Bagh 
) and previously by tram.
By train
[edit]The Circular Railway has stops at 2 B.B.D. Bag Circular , 3 Edengarden Circular and 4 Prinsep Ghat Circular .
See
[edit]- 1 Outram Ghat, Strand Rd. One of Kolkata's premier riverside entertainment spots. The place is a long stretch with a grand view of the river and Vidyasagar Setu nearby. There are numerous eateries. One can also have a ride in a country boat. The ghat (steps leading to the river) is used for bathing and religious ceremonies. there are other ghats alongside. Beware of trains moving along the circular rail track. Or enjoy a cruise on the river in a panshi.
- 2 Vidyasagar Setu (বিদ্যাসাগর সেতু Bidyāsāgar Setu, Second Hooghly Bridge). Open 24 hours. With a total length of 823 m (2,700 ft), Vidyasagar Setu is the longest cable-stayed bridge in India and one of the longest in Asia. It was built 3.7 km (2.3 mi) south/downstream of Howrah Bridge. The bridge was commissioned in 1992 by the Hooghly River Bridge Commission (HRBC).
Government buildings
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- 3 Assembly House (বিধানসভা ভবন Bidhānsabha Bhaban), Esplanade Row W. The building houses the legislative assembly of West Bengal..
- 4 Calcutta High Court (কলকাতা উচ্চ আদালত Kalkātā Ucca Ādālat), Esplanade Row W (between the Town Hall and the Strand), ☏ +91 33 2254-8000, fax: +91 33 2248-7835, calcuttahighcourtprotocol@gmail.com. It is the oldest high court in India, a scene of legendary legal battles even today. It was established as the High Court of Judicature at Fort William in 1862. The building was built in the Gothic architectural style, and was exactly copied from the Staadhans (Cloth Hall) in Ypres, Belgium.
- 5 General Post Office (GPO), Netaji Subhas Rd. Notable for its imposing high domed roof (rising over 220 ft (67 m)) and tall Ionic-Corinthian pillars. It was built in 1868, at the site of the old Fort William, and has remained an important landmark of the city ever since.
- 6 Raj Bhavan (রাজভবন Rājbhaban, former name: Government House). The Governor's Residence. Built in 1803, modelled on Lord Curzon’s home, Keddleston Hall, England, this is now the official residence of the Governor of West Bengal. There are many rare works of art and other interesting items. The building is open to the public.
- 7 Writers' Building (মহাকরণ Mahākaraṇ), 16, B. B. D. Bagh North. The landmark administrative building of Kolkata, designed by Thomas Lyon in 1777. It originally served as the principal administrative office for writers (junior clerks) of the British East India Company (EIC). The building became famous for its involvement with three youngsters–Benoy Basu, Badal Gupta and Dinesh Gupta–who dared to challenge the British rule in 1930. Since India's independence in 1947, it housed the office of the Chief Minister of West Bengal, cabinet ministers, and other senior officials, until 4 October 2013, when the offices were shifted to Nabanna in Howrah due to the major restoration work of the building. The Writers' Building is closed for more than a decade, and is said to be haunted at night, with memories of its involvement with Benoy-Badal-Dinesh.
Memorials
[edit]- 8 Gwalior Monument (Ellenborough's Folly, The Pepperpot). An octagonal cenotaph crowned with a bronze dome cast from guns captured from the Scindia forces of Gwalior. It was erected in 1847 by Governor-General Lord Ellenborough as a memorial to the officers and men who fell during the Gwalior War of 1843.
- 9 Prinsep Ghat (প্রিন্সেপ ঘাট Prinsep Ghāṭ) (local: Prinsep Ghat Circular ). Named after James Prinsep, the ghat gives an excellent view of the Hooghly River and Vidyasagar Setu.
Museums
[edit]- 10 Currency Building (National Gallery of Modern Art), 1, Surendra Mohan Ghosh Sarani. A three-storey Italianate structure, consisting of floors covered by marble and Chunar sandstone. During its use as a currency office, the central hall contained the exchange counters for banknotes, gold, silver, and small change. It was converted into a modern art gallery on 11 January 2020.
- 11 Kolkata Port Trust Maritime and Heritage Museum, GF, 6, Fairlie Warehouse, Strand Rd (local: B.B.D Bag Circular ). M–F 10:00AM–4:30PM. A museum showcasing the heritage of the Port of Kolkata, with some wonderful models of ships once used by the port..
- 12 Kolkata Town Hall, 4, Esplanade Row W. Built in 1813, in the Doric style of architecture, it is now the City Magistrate’s Office. It hosts a museum and a library. The museum depicts the history of Kolkata and adjacent areas. The library contains the collection of rare books and journals on Kolkata, purchased from Keralite P. T. Nair, who once fell in love of the metropolis so much that he spent most of his life there, then he returned to Kerala.
- 13 Metcalfe Hall, 12, Strand Rd. A neoclassical heritage building. Its ground floor houses the Asiatic Society's rare foreign journals and manuscripts section, while the first floor houses offices, exhibition galleries and a sales counter of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
- 14 Reserve Bank of India Museum (RBI Museum), 8, Council House St, therbimuseum@rbi.org.in. One of the few museums in India that covers the evolution of money in the country, from the earliest barter system and the use of cowries to paper money, coins, stock markets and modern-day electronic transactions. It is hosted in the old building of the Reserve Bank of India.
- 15 Samriddhi Bhavan, Strand Rd. Regional headquarters of State Bank of India (SBI), the oldest bank of India. It was founded on 2 June 1806 as the Bank of Calcutta, mainly to fund General Wellesley's wars against Tipu Sultan and the Marathas. The bank was renamed to Bank of Bengal in 1809, then Imperial Bank of India in 1921 and then State Bank of India in 1955. The building contains State Bank Archives and Museum, an initiative to document and preserve the history of banking in India. The museum contains original documents, memorabilia, statues, artefacts, dioramas and murals on public display. It also provides a peek into the personal finances of influential Bengali Renaissance figures such as Rabindranath Tagore, Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar and Annie Besant.
Places of worship
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- 16 Beth-El Synagogue (বেথ এল সিনাগগ).
- 17 St Andrews Church, 15, BBD Bagh North.
- 18 St John's Church and Compound, 2/1 Council House St, ☏ +91 33 22436098, stjohnschurchcni@gmail.com. Built in 1787, St John's Church is the third-oldest church in Kolkata and the oldest Anglican Church in the city. Its compound contains several graves including that of Job Charnock.
- 19 Tazaung (near Eden Gardens stadium, suburban: Eden Gardens Circular ). A Buddhist pagoda, next to a tiny lake. Lord Dalhousie brought the pagoda from Prome in Burma (present-day Myanmar) and erected here in 1854.
Do
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- 1 Eden Gardens (suburban: Eden Gardens Circular ). One of the venues of international cricket matches in India, named after Lord Auckland’s sister. It is also the host stadium of the Bengal Cricket Association (BCA) and the Kolkata Knight RIders (KKR), one of the IPL (Indian Premier League) teams.
- 2 Millennium Park, Strand Rd. A beautiful park at the riverfront, inaugurated on 26 December 1999 and opened to the general public on the 1 January 2000. Developed by the Kolkata Metropolitan Development Authority (KMDA), the park is known for scenic views of the Hooghly River, with several ferries and boats roaming around the river.
- 3 Netaji Indoor Stadium (local: Eden Gardens Circular ). Inaugurated in 1975, it can accommodate 12,000 people. The Netaji Indoor Stadium hosts a wide range of activities, from sporting events to cultural programmes. It is a venue for both national and international trade fairs.
Eat and drink
[edit]- 1 The Scoop, 71 Strand Rd, ☏ +91 33 22485680. noon to 10PM. Fast food outlet. It has an exclusive view of the river from the first floor of the restaurant. Sitting in the restaurant, one can watch boats moving in the river and cars moving across Vidyasagar Setu.
Sleep
[edit]Since B. B. D. Bagh is mostly an administrative and business district, it is quite impossible to find accommodations within the district. However, the nearby districts provide several options.
- 1 The LaLiT Great Eastern, ☏ +91 33 4444-7777. Built in 1841, the Great Eastern Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Kolkata. The hotel has housed many famous personalities including Nikita Khrushchev and Nikolai Bulganin, Elizabeth II, Mark Twain, Dave Brubeck and possibly Ho Chi Minh.
- 2 Polo Floatel, 10, Strand Rd, ☏ +91 33 2213-7779.
Connect
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[edit]Police stations
[edit]- 1 Kolkata Police Headquarters, Lal Bazar, ☏ +91 33 2214-3024, +91 33 2214-3230, +91 33 2214-1310.