Popayán
Popayán (Pronounced: Po - pa - 'yan), is a colonial-era city in southwestern Colombia, capital of the Cauca department.
Understand
The city was founded in the year 1537 by Sebastian de Belalcazar. Because of its beautiful colonial houses, it is known as the "white city". Popayan has played a major role in Colombia's history dating back to the early days of the Spanish conquest and into the twentieth century. A number of Colombian presidents were born in Popayan including, most recently, Guillermo Leon Valencia from 1962 to 1966. Other well-known citizens include Francisco Jose de Caldas (1768-1816) and Camilo Torres (1766-1816). Popayán has one of Colombia's oldest universities: the Universidad del Cauca, founded in 1827. The University is well known throughout the country for its Law School, Medical School, and its Electronics and Telecommunications Engineering programs. Nowadays around 220.000 people live in the city.
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Get in
By plane
Popayan's airport does not have heavy traffic but you can reach the city by air. There are about four daily flights from Bogota to Popayan and vice versa. The airport is open between 6 AM and 6 PM (daylight hours). There are no flights between Cali and Popayan as of this writing (December 2008). The airport in the neighbour city of Cali (100 minute car ride) serves many domestic and international destinations.
By bus
There are numerous bus companies available. The most reliable are bus operators are Expreso Palmira and Expreso Bolivariano. Avoid Expreso Puerto Tejada. Be advised that there is significant guerrilla activity in the countryside near Popayan and it can be risky to travel by land during periods of disturbance if you are not a local. There are daily buses from the border town of Ipiales.
- to/from Cali : 12,000 COP / 3 hours with minibus 14,000 COP / 2 hours
- to/from Armenia : 40,000 COP / 7 hours (several a day)
- to/from Medellin : 60,000 COP / 11 hours (7PM, 8PM, 1AM)
- to/from San Agustín : 28,000 COP / 5 hours (six a day)
- to/from Tierradentro : 20,000 COP / 4 hours (5AM, 8AM, 10.30AM, 1PM, 3PM)
- to/from Pasto : 25,000 COP / roughly 6 hours, but double check before you go
- to/from Ipiales : 25,000 - 40,000 COP / 7-8 hours (better during the day) - Many buses leave in the early morning.
Get around
Popayan is a small city and it is an easy 10-15 minute walk between the bus station and the centre. The historical centre is fairly compact and best explored on foot. Taxis are plentiful.
See
Since Popayan was a seat of power during Spanish colonial times, there are numerous architectural gems in the city. Some of the most impressive are, naturally, churches. Do not miss: Iglesia de San Francisco, Iglesia La Ermita, and Belen which is perched on top of a small hill overlooking Popayan. As for government buildings the Gobernacion and the Universidad del Cauca have excellent colonial premises. Another architectural site is the Puente del Humilladero, which is a long walking bridge over a river in Popayan that was constructed in old Roman style.
Popayan's central square is called the Parque de Caldas, named after one of Popayan's most famous citizens: Francisco Jose de Caldas (1768-1816). On one side of the square is a city landmark called the Torre del Reloj or the 'Clock Tower.' The clock was designed by Caldas himself and was constructed in Croydon, England before being shipped to Colombia. A few doors down from the Torre del Reloj is the city's Cathedral, which was badly damaged during the major earthquake that almost destroyed the whole city on March 31, 1983. The city took almost 20 years to fully recover from the quake but the vast majority of the buildings in the white colonial centre have now been restored to their former glory.
The city is world-renowned for its Easter celebrations, or the Semana Santa. In fact, the celebrations are the second largest in the world (after Seville, Spain) and are a major sight! Every night during Semana Santa, there are processions in the streets and tens of thousands of people line the sidewalks to watch as floats pass by with religious motifs. The floats are carried on the shoulders of human volunteers. It's a great honour to be selected for the Semana Santa processions but the floats can weigh up to 500 kilo and so dislocated shoulders are frequent. It's a major cultural event that is witnessed by people from all over the country.
Also you can see other older religious traditions like of the Amo Jesus Nazareno of Puelenje is a Catholic image, that is worshiped in the temple of Puelenje, district of Popayan, Colombia. Patron Saint of this place. It is a polychrome wood sculpture of Jesus Christ of the eighteenth century made in the Quito school. Is Baroque. The image also scrolls the Holy Wednesday. In the processions of Holy Week in Popayán that are inscribed in UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists.This religious festival is celebrated by the natives of Puelenje for 15 days, where there are fireworks, processions, religious ceremonies and cultural events as the Chirimia.
Do
Learn
Buy
You can buy some handicrafts. They are specially made by guambiano indians
Eat
In 2005, Popayan became the first city to be designated a City of Gastronomy as part of the UNESCO Creative Cities initiative. For cheap and genuine food, try the market near Plaza Bolivar, north of the Puente del Humilladero. Meals from COP$ 1500 (June 2008).
- Carantanta soup
- Tamales de pipian
- Empanadas de pipian
- Champús
- Manjar Blanco or Payanés
- Manjarillo
- Cortado
- Breva Calada
- Paila's Ice cream.
- Envuelto
- Rosquilla
Veggie option:
- El Muro: Carrera 8a, #4-11, 6 dishes and a drink for $4000.
- real santo domingo (calle 4 # 2-39), ☏ +57 92-8208022. Wow just an amazing place to eat
I had Crepes + Gaseosa (option of chicken or meat or fruits) $3,900 - just wow I see why its awarded city of Gastronomy
- Cakes and more, carrera 2 #2-35, ☏ +57 32 836462. a new place that has amazing cakes - and more ...
very unique - unique to the region and Popayan - can't find this any place else in the world...
Stay safe
Popayán is located in Cauca, considered one of the most dangerous departments in Colombia as of 2011.[1] In 2011 several car bombs have rocked central Popayán, with the authorities blaming local armed and mafia groups for the actions.[2] stay alert for information regarding drug traffickers, guerrillas and paramilitaries, as this city and its surroundings sees the presence of countless armed groups.
Drink
Aguardiente caucano is a drink based on Anis and it has some degrees of alcohol. It's the favorite drink in informal parties.
- El Sotareño, Calle 6, 8-05. A small and friendly bar with oldish music and good atmosphere.
Sleep
- Hostel Caracol, Calle 4 #2-21 (4 blocks from the main square and just 300m from La Ermita church), ☏ +57 311 626 8840, info@hostelcaracol.com. Opened in October 2011, this is one of the most laid-back hostels in the city. Located in a beautiful 16th Century colonial building in the heart of the colonial centre. Offers: Free Wifi, Computers with internet, 24 hour access, Kitchen, DVD room, Lockers with power sockets, lots of information on trips. The hostel also offers the best deals on long-stay rates. Dorms: COP$18.000, Privates: COP$45.000, Singles: COP$30.000.
- Hostel Trail, Carrera 11 #4-16 (20 meters from Hotel Monasterio), ☏ +57 314 696 0805, info@hosteltrail.com. The backpacker's choice in Popayan since 2006 and rated considered by the rough guide to be "one of the best hostels in the country..." with private and dorm rooms, the fastest broadband internet in the city, FREE WIFI, Skype, DVD Collection, lockers with power points, hot water showers, laundry and self-catering kitchen and breakfast service. HostelTrail also runs most of the tours in Popayan including the downhill cycling trip to Coconuco. Wednesday night is curry night. 10,000 Pesos for a curry and a drink. Dorms: COP$17.000, Privates: COP$42.000-50.000, Singles: COP$28.000.
- ParkLife Hostel, Calle 5 #6-19 (In the central park besides the Cathedral), ☏ +57 3002496240, +57 3044011561, info@parklifehostel.com. Check-in: 1pm, check-out: 12am. This hostel is right in the center of Popayan, in the Prque Caldas. It is located in a beautiful colonial building with amazing views to the Popayan main square. In the past few months the area has been reserved only for pedestrians so that tranquility is a guarantee. It's good karma and low prices have atracted many tourists trying to visit the city or its sorroundings. The services include free WIFI, laundry service, big common areas, free use of the kitchen, etc. The area is very close to several coffee shops, supermarkets and the main commercial street. Dorms COP $16,000, doubles COP $40,000.
- Hotel Pass Home, Calle 5 #10-114 (five streets down the hill from the central park), ☏ +57 8243725 (Landline); 3164489513/3207355088 (Cellular Phones), hotelpasshome@gmail.com. This hotel is clean and the owners (colombia family) are very friendly. If you need a place for a tent, you can pitch here as well for COP $10,000 and you can use the kitchen for free. Free WiFi. Private rooms have cable TV with 106 channels in English, German, French, Chinese, Spanish, etc. You can also purchase a breakfast, lunch, and dinner package with local Popayan cuisine for COP$10,000 per day. Dorms COP $18,000, singles COP $25,000, doubles COP $36,000.
- Residencial Florida, Carrera 6. Very simple rooms with shared toilet/bathroom Singles from COP$ 7000.
- Hotel Monasterio (Dann Hotel), Calle 4, between Carreras 10 and 11. This is a city landmark in itself. It used to be a Monastery and it was converted into a very nice hotel. It is behind the Iglesia de San Jose. It is about 4 city blocks from the Parque de Caldas. $$$.
- Hotel Camino Real, Carrera 5 # 5-59 (Half a block away from Parque Caldas), ☏ +57 2 824 3595. This is a very good hotel located in the city center. The food is unexpectedly sophisticated. The service is cordial, especially important for non-Spanish speaking guests. The decor reflects the Spanish influence, but makes you feel at home. The rooms are comfortable for the business traveler as well as for visiting families. Reasonably priced rooms. Located in the heart of the city. $$.
- Casa Familiar Turistica, Carrera 5 No. 2-07, ☏ +57 92 8244853. This is a smallish family run hostel with an excellent location right inside the historical center. The family seems mostly indifferent, neither helpful or rude. It offers two hot showers, kitchen use (with a fee), laundry service and breakfast for COP$3.000. Price for a dormbed was COP$13.000 but has been rising.
- La Casa de Mima, Calle 3 # 2 -37 (5 blocks away from Parque Caldas), ☏ +57 2 8243 197. Once a family home, now attended by owner. Very convenient location in a quiet downtown street. Rooms are large, most with private bathroom. Back garden, small swimming pool. Check-in can be arranged for guest convenience. COP 70.000.
- 1 Hostel Caldas, Calle 5 #7-62 (At 50 meters from the plaza Caldas), ☏ +57 (2)8208782, Cel 312 8941930, hostelcaldas@hotmail.com. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 14:00. Established in typical colonial style house of the nineteenth century, in calm and relaxing ambience, 50 meters from the Plaza Caldas. Facilities: Free Wi-Fi, computer with internet access, 24h reception, kitchen, laundry service, lockers, bicycles for hire, tour information. Dorms: COP$17.000, Privates: COP$45.000.
There is a lot of budget accommodation in Carrera 6, just across the Puente del Humilladero, north of the Rio Molino.
Go next
- Coconuco, one hour from Popayan, this small town offers the Hirviendos hot springs. HostelTrail (see Sleep) also runs the most popular trip in Popayan which is a downhill cycling trip to Aguas Hirviendos. The tour leaves at 10pm from HostelTrail and returns at around 3-4pm in the afternoon.
- Silvia, about one hour from Popayan, in the land of the Guambiano Indians. There is a spectacular market there on Tuesdays.
- San Agustin, a small town with dozens of pre-Colombian statues, waterfalls and beautiful views can be reached in about 5 hours.