Esquilino and San Giovanni are adjacent neighborhoods in Rome.

Esquilino is named for the Esquiline hill on which it stands. It lies south of the Termini station and centers more or less on the Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II. It is now partly a Chinese immigrant neighborhood, and specialty groceries and shoe stores abound. (There is also still some disgruntled graffiti to be found lamenting this fact, such as "Esquilino - White and Catholic. Defend it with us."). San Giovanni is named after the Basilica, which is the parish church of Rome. The area is south-east of the Esquiline.

Get in

Metro Line A connects Termini station with the basilica of San Giovanni. There are also several buses from the downtown area, best caught at Piazza Venezia or by the Colosseum, where you can connect with Metro Line B.

See

Mosaic at Santa Prassede

• 1 Santa Maria Maggiore, Via Liberiana 27, ☏ +39 06483195. Built in the 9th Century, this ancient basilica crowns the top of the Esquiline Hill. Tons of gold decorate the interior together with impressive mosaics (particularly when the floodlights are turned on), and there is a museum on the premises. If you are in Rome on Corpus Christi (Corpus Domini), which is the Thursday after the 8th Sunday after Easter, an early-evening service is held in San Giovanni by the Pope followed by a procession along Via Merulana to Santa Maria. Good opportunity for a close up view of the Pope. 

• 2 Santa Prassede, Via di S. Prassede (leaving Santa Maria Maggiore walk very briefly down Via Merulana and take first right. S. Prassede is accessed by a side entrance straight ahead of you). Fantastic Byzantine mosaics and some other interesting artwork. Not to be missed. 

• 3 Santa Pudenziana, Via Urbana 160 (2 blocks northwest of Santa Maria Maggiore). A very ancient church named after a saint who was in 1969 removed from the Roman Catholic calendar of saints for the lack of details of her life. But the church retains the name and is well worth visiting for an excellent 4th Century mosaic and attractive decorations on the facade. 

• 4 Santo Stefano Rotondo, Via di Santo Stefano Rotondo (On the Celian hill). Unusual and fascinating round church and the national church in Rome of Hungary. 
• 5 San Giovanni in Laterano, Piazza di San Giovanni Laterano. This is the cathedral church of Rome and first of the major basilicas. It's also the Pope's (as Bishop of Rome) Church. As such it ranks above all other churches in the Roman Catholic Church, even above St. Peter's. Be sure to check out the fourth century baptistery (still in use - in Piazza di San Giovanni, slightly apart from the main basilica) and the medieval cloister (brilliant Cosmati columns) 
• 6 Scala Sancta (North-east of the basilica, across the road). The Scala Sancta (Holy Stairs) is, according to Roman Catholic tradition, the staircase used by Jesus Christ to approach Pontius Pilate to be sentenced to death. Attracts numerous pilgrims who climb the stairs on their knees. 

The Baptistery of San Giovanni: Superb inside!

• 7 Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 12. Originally constructed to hold relics of the Passion of Jesus. They include two thorns of his crown, part of a nail and three small wooden pieces of the Cross. The authenticity of these relics is much disputed, however. 
• National Museum of Musical Instruments (Museo Nazionale degli Strumenti Musicali), Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 9/A. Tue-Sun 09:00-19:00, Mon closed (ticket office closes 30min earlier). Next door to Santa Croce. A collection of around 3000 pieces, although only a third of these are displayed. €5 adults, €2.50 concessions. (updated Feb 2016)
• 8 Museo della Liberazione, Via Tasso 145 (Manzoni metro station on Line A). 09.30 to 12.30 Tuesday to Sunday and Tuesday, Thursday and Friday afternoons. This small museum records the liberation of Rome from German occupation during the Second World War. During the occupation the building was used as a prison. Free admission. 

  

  Old meets "new" in Piazza San Giovanni

Do

Movies are shown and some performances are held for free in Piazza Vittorio during the summer.

Buy

• 1 Mercato Esquilino. An indoor market of ancient provenance that recently moved from its longtime outdoor home all the way round the outside of Piazza Vittorio; it is still only a couple of blocks east of the piazza. The mercato is divided into a food section, with good and cheap produce, meat, and fish, and a clothing section, with clothes of all kinds, shoes, luggage, etc. at low prices and generally not fabulous quality. Get there in the morning for food; it's generally closed by afternoon. 

Eat

There are a lot of Chinese and Indian restaurants, but you will also find many typical trattorias.

• Palazzo del Freddo (Gelateria Fassi), Via Principe Eugenio 65 (just south-east of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele), ☏ +39 06 4464740. Ice cream: not as marvelous as Giolitti or San Crispino but still worth trying. Prices are reasonable, quality good. Old ice cream making equipment on display. 
• Ristorante Baia Chia, via Machiavelli 5 (corner of Via Machiavelli and Via Merulana). closed Sundays. Good value Sardinian fish restaurant. Seafood antipasto, three pasta dishes, grilled fish and dessert for around Euros 40. Don't try to order, just let them bring it to your table. Excellent Sardinian wines extra. 
• Panella L’Arte del Pane, Via Merulana 54 (5 mins from Santa Maria Maggiore). Very upmarket (with matching prices) baker. Great window displays but you may find the taste doesn't match the appearance. 

Drink

The area around Santa Maria Maggiore is the main area in Rome for Irish Pubs:

• Fiddler’s Elbow, Via dell’ Olmata (just to the south-west of S. M. Maggiore). The oldest Irish pub. 
• Druid’s Den, Via San Martino ai Monti 28 (head down Via Merulana and take the second street on the right). 
• Druid’s Rock Pub, Piazza Esquilino 1 (the other side of the basilica, just after you cross Via Cavour). The sister pub of the Druid’s Den. 

Sleep

Ceiling mosaic of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

Budget

• B&B Bed in Art, Via Filippo Turati 102 (Close Termini station and Colosseum), ☏ +39 3494232501, info@bedinart.it. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Double, triple and quadruple bedrooms, all rooms with free wifi. Average rates: single 45 euro, double 65, triple 75, quadruple 95. 
• B&B Sergio, Via Principe Amadeo 92 (int.9), ☏ +39 06 89531043. Single, double, triple and quadruple bedrooms. Rates do not include breakfast. Average rates: double 65 euros, triple 75. 
• Dream Station B&B, Via Giolitti 119 (50 meters from Termini Station), ☏ +39 3923009331, roma.dreamstation@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Bathroom ensuite, free wifi, air conditioning. Breakfast included. 44€-119€.. 
• Hotel Center, Via Giovanni Giolitti, 415, ☏ +39 06 77590702, fax: +39 06 77590702. Two star accommodation with private bathrooms and a breakfast hall, located south of Termini and two metro stops from San Giovanni. €60-65. 
• Hotel Orazia (Orazia Hotel), Via Buonarroti, 51, ☏ +39 06 446 7202, fax: +39 06 4467202, info@hotelorazia.it. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Three stars hotel with private bathrooms and breakfast service, free wi-fi. It's near of Termini Station and the metro A stop. €60-€150. 
• Hotel Taormina, Via Principe Eugenio, 51, ☏ +39 06 4464754. Large two-star hotel of with 51 bedrooms divided in single, double, twin and triple. All rooom with private bath, flat screen TV and air conditioning. 60 euros for a double/twin, 75 for a triple and 40 for a single. 
• Mosaic Hostel, Via Carlo Cattaneo 23, 1st Floor,, ☏ +39 06 4470 4592. A new dorm style hostel situated just in a 5 minute walking distance from Rome’s central station Termini. The hostel is designed for budget minded backpackers and offers clean and large rooms with a variety of services for backpackers. €20-26. 
• Panoramic Hostel, Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, 12, ☏ +39 06 89531043. Three bedrooms divided in double and twin with en-suites services, shower, television and air conditioning. Also available a common kitchen. For both, the double and twin rooms, the price is 55 euros. Breakfast included.. 
• 1 Roma Termini Suites, Via Daniele Manin 69, 00185 Rome, Italy (Stone's throw from Termini Station), ☏ +39 06 99 33 03 74, fax: +39 06 96 70 87 30, info@romaterminisuites.com. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 11AM. Stylish single, double and triple bedrooms, all with en-suite bathroom, air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, etc. Average rates: single 38 Euros, double 43 Euros, triple 53 Euros.. 
• Sixtythree, Via Rattazzi, 63, ☏ +39 338 4280189, fax: +39 06 96708668, info@63bb.com. Located in the immediate neighborhood of Termini station, it is very easy to reach regardless whether you arrive in Rome by train or by plane. €50-160. 
• El Trotamundo Bed and Breakfast, Via del Pigneto 3, ☏ +39 3284488346, eltrotamundobandb@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:30-24:00, check-out: 11. from €35 to €80 included breakfast, kitchen use, air condition, WIFI, privated bathroom. 

Mid-range

• Best Western President Hotel, Via Emanuele Filiberto 173, ☏ +39 06-770121, fax: +39 06-7008740. Housed in a modern building located in very a central position. Wifi, Pay and sat TV are among each bedroom facilities. From €123 including breakfast. 

• Hotel Edera, Via Angelo Poliziano, 75, (off Via Merulana in direction of Colosseum). On a quiet side street. 10-minute stroll to the Colosseum through the Colli Oppio park. 

• 2 Hotel Napoleon (Napoleon Hotel Rome), Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 105 00185, Rome, Italy (Termini Station - Coliseum), ☏ +39 06 4467264, fax: +39 06 4467264. Check-in: 12.00, check-out: 11.00. Four star hotel, 75 rooms with private bathrooms, bar and restaurant, free internet wi-fi, transfer from Airports, located in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, in the middle of Rione Esquilino, one metro stop from Termini Station and from San Giovanni. From € 90 to 180 Breakfast included. 

• EL Trotamundo B&B, Via del Pigneto 3, ☏ +39 3284488346. private Bathroom , free wifi, air conditioning. Kitchen use.Internet point. Breakfast included. Single room 35/50€; double room 45/70€.. 

Splurge

• Radisson Blu Hotel, Via Filippo Turati, 171 IT-00185 (Termini Station followed by a long walk), ☏ +39 06 444 841, fax: +39 06 44 34 13 96. This hotel on Esquiline Hill has 232 rooms. €230/€560. 

Go next

Routes through Esquilino-San Giovanni

North Rome ← Modern Center ←

W  E

→ South Rome → END