Fira de Tots Sants

Cocentaina is a town of 11,500 people (2018) in Alicante. It is known primarily for its textile industry, and tourists flock to experience its two festivals, both of them originating in the Middle Ages and declared 'Festivals of National Tourist Interest'.

Understand

Cocentaina (from Iberian: Contestani – the name of the regional Iberian tribe) has been inhabited since Paleolithic times, as attested by nearby cave paintings. Under Moorish rule Qustantaniya was an important enclave; the castle foundations, street layout, and numerous alquerias (fortified farmhouses) survive from that period.

• 1 Tourist Info, Plaça del Pla, s/n (in the Capella de Sant Antoni, by the Palau Comtal), ☏ +34 965 590 159, cocentaina@touristinfo.net. Tu-F 10:00-13:00 17:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-13:00. (updated Nov 2017)

Get in

By train

• 1 Estación de Tren, Carrer Pujada a Santa Bàrbara, 27. Renfe runs four trains daily between Valencia and Alcoy, with stops in Xàtiva, Ontinyent, and Cocentaina. From Valencia the trip takes about two hours and costs €9; from Alcoy the trip takes just five minutes and costs €2. (updated Nov 2017)

By bus

Autocares Travicoi (☏ +34 963 491 425) runs several buses daily, including on weekends, between Valencia and Alcoy. From Alcoy, Subus (☏ +34 902 106 992) runs buses multiple times daily; a summer schedule is available for download here and a winter schedule is available here. Travicoi and Subus buses stop at 2 Avda del País Valencià in Cocentaina.

By car

Cocentaina lies on the highway N-340 which connects to the A-7, running from Alicante to Alcoy and further on to Valencia.

Get around

Cocentaina is quite small, and easily navigable by foot.

See

Ceiling detail of the Sala Daurada (Gilded Room) in the Palau Comtal

Cocentaina Castle

• 1 Palau Comtal (Palacio de los Condes / Palace of the Counts), ☏ +34 965 500 051 x222, patrimoni@cocentaina.org. Tu-F 11:00-13:00, 18:00-20:00; Sa 11:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00. A former fortress from the late 13th and early 14th centuries, built atop an earlier Muslim structure from the 12th century; it was altered in the 16th and 17th centuries. Notable architectural features include the Capilla de San Antonio Abad (Chapel of St. Anthony the Great) and the Sala Daurada, or Gilded Room. The building now houses the Museu Municipal (Museo Municipal), an art gallery with some valuable works including two Gothic altarpieces and a 15th-century bible. (updated Nov 2017)
• 2 Castell de Cocentaina (Castillo de Cocentaina / Cocentaina Castle) (Penyeta Blanca). The Gothic watchtower overlooking the town was built between the late 13th and early 14th centuries atop possible earlier Iberian and Moorish remains; it has been restored. It is generally closed, but the 2 Ajuntament (ayuntamiento / town hall) will lend out keys on request (ID required). There are two possible access routes: one from the south via a steep footpath which starts near the train station, and the other via car from the north, with the last 200 m by foot. (updated Nov 2017)
• 3 Museu Arqueològic i Etnològic del Comtat (Casa-Museu del Comtat / Casa-Museo del Comtat), Carrer Major, 3, ☏ +34 966 500 197 (opening hrs only). M-F 16:00-19:00. The 18th-century building is now home to the local archaeological and ethnological museum, which has on display some interesting archaeological artifacts found in the area. (updated Nov 2017)
• 4 Ermita de Santa Bàrbara (Ermita de Santa Bárbara / St. Barbara Hermitage) (on a small hill above the train station). The simple 13th-century chapel is of the so-called 'reconquista' style. (updated Nov 2017)
• 5 Castell de Penella (Castillo de Penella / Penella Castle) (about 7km S in Penella). The ruined 13th-century fortress offers some great views of the area. The structure is also generally closed, but the town hall will lend out keys on request. (updated Nov 2017)

Do

Festivals

Moros i Cristians

Fira de Tots Sants

• Moros i Cristians (Moros y Cristianos / Moors and Christians), 2nd weekend in Aug. Cocentaina's Moors and Christians celebration has been declared a 'Festival of National Tourist Interest', and has been celebrated since the 15th century. Fourteen 'brotherhoods', six Christian and eight Moorish, take part in parades and mock battles in the historic centre. (updated Nov 2017)
  • 6 Casal i Museu Fester (Museo de Fiestas de Moros i Cristians / Moors and Christians Museum), Carrer dels Sants de la Pedra, 7, ☏ +34 966 500 749, jfcocentaina@jazzfree.com. A small museum devoted to the history of the popular festival. (updated Nov 2017)
• Fira de Tots Sants (Feria de Todos los Santos / All Saints' Day Fair), Plaça la Vila, 1 (office) (historic centre), ☏ +34 965 590 051, info@firadecocentaina.org. During the week of 1 Nov, or All Saints' Day. This enormous trade fair is the second longest-running fair in Spain and has been held annually since 1346, with a few interruptions for epidemics and war. It has been designated by the Spanish government as a 'Festival of National Tourist Interest'. In addition to typical trade fair exhibits of agricultural and construction machinery, large sections of the fair are devoted to arts and crafts as well as to local food products, including artisanal cheeses, sausages, wines, dried fruits, and olive oils. Additionally on some days there are equestrian competitions and demonstrations, games of raspall (a local variant of the traditional Valencian handball game pilota), and traditional dance performances. As this event attracts up to 500,000 people during the week, drivers should note that parking is limited to lots outside the town centre. It is best to arrive and leave early to avoid severe traffic congestion. Free. (updated Nov 2017)

Hiking

Montcabrer, the highest peak of the Serra Mariola

• 1 Serra Mariola Natural Park (Parque Natural de la Sierra de Mariola). The mountain park offers good opportunities for hiking, with trail difficulty ranging from easy to difficult. The park can be accessed from Alcoy as well as Cocentaina, and has several sights of historic and natural interest. The park administration maintains an online list of nine hiking trails with maps and trail descriptions (in Spanish). (updated Nov 2017)
  • 2 Montcabrer. At 1,390 m this is the highest peak of the Serra Mariola range. The hiking trail to the top is most easily accessed from Cocentaina; a trail map and description (in Spanish) can be downloaded here. (updated Nov 2017)
  • 7 Cava Gran (Cava Arquejada). A 15th-century snow and ice cellar, which remained in use until 1906. A trail map and description (in Spanish) can be downloaded here. (updated Nov 2017)

Buy

• 1 Mercadillo (street market), Plaça del Plá. Th mornings. A weekly street market for local produce and other goods. (updated Nov 2017)

Eat

Restaurante L'Escaleta

Midrange

• 1 Restaurante La Montaña, Partida els Algars, 139, ☏ +34 965 590 814, info@restaurantelamontana.es. M W-F 13:30-16:30; Sa 13:30-16:30, 20:30-23:00; Su 11:00-16:30. Traditional cuisine in a rustic setting, with excellent views. (updated Nov 2017)

Splurge

• 2 Restaurante L'Escaleta, Pujada Estació Nord, 204, ☏ +34 965 592 100, lescaleta@lescaleta.com. Tu W 13:00-16:00; Th-Sa 13:00-16:00, 21:00-23:00; Su 13:00-16:00. Operated by star chef Kiko Moya, the restaurant has two Michelin stars and focuses on creative Mediterranean cuisine using locally-sourced products. (updated Nov 2017)

Drink

Cocentaina café licor, to the left with added cinnamon and to the right with lemon water

Cocentaina, along with nearby Alcoy, is known for its café licor ('coffee liquor'), not to be confused with the sweeter licor café in Murcia and Galicia. The drink is known to date to the early 13th century, and grew in popularity during the industrial revolution when factory workers would add it to their coffee thermoses. Today it has the Spanish denomination of origin of Bebidas Espirituosas Tradicionales ('Traditional Spirits'), and is consumed alone or mixed with other ingredients, such as orxata (Spanish: horchata), soda water, or lemon water.

Sleep

There are just a couple hotels and a handful of holiday apartments in Cocentaina; more options are available in nearby Alcoy.

• 1 Hotel Nou Hostalet, Avinguda de Xàtiva, 4, ☏ +34 965 592 703. The nonsmoking hotel has an onsite restaurant, free parking and Wi-Fi. Pets are permitted on request for no extra charge. Doubles €45. (updated Nov 2017)
• 2 Hotel Odón, Av del País Valencià, 145, ☏ +34 965 591 212, odon@hotelodon.com. The hotel has nonsmoking rooms, an onsite restaurant, free parking, and free Wi-Fi. Doubles €47+, breakfast €4. (updated Nov 2017)

Go next

• Alcoy