Kruununhaka (Swedish: Kronohagen) and Katajanokka (Swedish: Skatudden) are two districts of Helsinki right to the east of downtown, here defined as east of Unioninkatu (but still including the buildings facing the Senate Square), and stretching as far south as the Market Hall.
Here you can find the 19th century centre of the city, the origin of the present version of Helsinki with many of the city's most iconic buildings like the Senate Square (Senaatintori) with the cathedral, university and government buildings as well as the Market Square (Kauppatori) with the presidential palace, city hall and Embassy of Sweden. On the other hand, the northern halves of Kruununhaka and Katajanokka are to a large part residential.
Get in
[edit]You can get in from Central Helsinki by foot or by tram, tram lines also connect across Pitkäsilta to Hakaniemi and to the southern part of the city. If you arrive by Viking Line's ferries from Stockholm or Tallinn, their terminal is in Katajanokka.
See
[edit]The 19th century centre
[edit]The buildings south and north of the Lutheran cathedral were mostly designed by Carl Ludwig Engel and built in the early 19th century as a new unified city centre when Helsinki was made capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland. If you have come to look at the cathedral, why not walk around in the area and take a few photos? Buildings include the 1 Presidential Palace, the 2 City Hall and the 3 Swedish Embassy on the waterfront, the 4 Senate, the 5 Sederholm House and the 6 main building of Helsinki University around the Senate square and the 7 Bank of Finland, 8 House of the Estates and the 9 House of Nobility (Ritarihuone) "behind" the Senate square.
- 10 The National Library of Finland (Kansalliskirjasto), Unioninkatu 36, ☏ +358 2941 23196. 09:00-17:00/09:00-18:00. The beautiful National Library has books all the way from the early 19th century accessible for everyone (and books older than this are kept away from the public). The picturesque building with its glamorous stone columns is definitely worth a visit. free of charge.
- 11 Lutheran Cathedral (Tuomiokirkko), Aleksanterinkatu. 09:00-18:00. The unofficial symbol of the city, this striking white cathedral dominates the central Senate Square. Based on designs by Carl Ludvig Engel and completed in 1852, the cathedral has been refurbished, and the 12 Apostles are on the roof looking down at the world below. While entry is no longer free, one might argue that the building is more impressive from the outside anyway. 8€, 10€ for a pass including entry to Suomenlinna church and St. John's church as well.
- 12 Uspenski Cathedral (Uspenskin katedraali), Kanavakatu 1 (near the Market Square), ☏ +358 9 634267. Tu-F 09:30-16:00, Sa 09:30-14:00, Su 12:00-15:00. May-Sep M W Sa 09:30-16:00, Tu 09:30-18:00, Su 12:00-15:00. A classical and prominent onion-domed Russian church, the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe, Uspenski Cathedral serves Finland's small Orthodox minority. The name comes from the Russian uspenie, from the Dormition (death) of the Virgin Mary. The five domes are topped with 22-carat gold, and some of the icons within are held to be miraculous. Free.
- 13 Bank of Finland Museum, Snellmaninkatu 2 (next to the cathedral). Tu-F 11:00-17:00, Sa Su 11:00-16:00. A museum about money and banking, as the name reveals. free.
- 14 Helsinki City Museum, Aleksanterinkatu 16, ☏ +358 9 3103 6630, kaupunginmuseo@hel.fi. The museum covers a whole series of old buildings around Helsinki, but the centrepiece is the (short) street of Sofiankatu itself, carefully restored as a replica of the 1930s. Free.
- 15 House of the Book (Kirjan talo/Bokens hus), Kirjatyöntekijänkatu 10. The "House of the Book", by Georg Jägerroos and finished in 1935, is the house of Helsinki Bookworker's Union (which in turn is the oldest trade union in the country, established in 1869). The seven-story building houses conference rooms, apartments, a restaurant, a sauna and a banquet hall.
- 16 Finnish Military Museum, Maurinkatu 1 (Trams 7A and 7B). Tu-Th 11:00-17:00, F–Su 11:00–16:00, closed M. Founded in 1929, the central museum of the Finnish Defence Forces. €4.
- 17 Merikasarmi (in Katajanokka). A historical barracks area.
Do
[edit]- 1 Allas Sea Pool. Open-air swimming pool.
- 2 SkyWheel Helsinki. Ferris wheel.
- 3 Tervasaari. Popular recreation area next to the city centre. Includes restaurant Savu, a kid's playground, a dogpark with a designated swimming beach for dogs, a summer theatre and a rug washing pier.
- 4 Studium Catholicum, Ritarikatu 3 A 4 (in Kruununhaka), ☏ +358 9 6120 6711, kirjasto@studium.fi. A Catholic cultural center. Dominicans from France founded the Studium in 1949, and the Dominican Order is still responsible for the center's operations. Studium has a library of more than 40,000 books, whose collections focus on Catholic theology.
Buy
[edit]- 1 Music Hunter, Unioninkatu 45. Record store.
Markets
[edit]- 2 Market Square (Kauppatori). At the end of Esplanadi facing the sea, this open-air market sells fresh fish and produce from all over Finland. Open year round. It's busiest in summer, although the Christmas Market in December is also worth a look. One section of the market is devoted to souvenirs, but best buys here are the fresh berries and other produce. In summer, try the sweet green peas (herne). Pop open the pod and eat as is.
- 3 Old Market Hall (Vanha kauppahalli). Next to Market Square, this old brick building houses Finland's best collection of gourmet food boutiques. Try to find the stall which sells beaver sausage.
Eat
[edit]Budget
[edit]- 1 Katajanokan Pizzapalvelu, Merisotilaantori 3a, ☏ +358 9 175384. 10:00-22:00. A typical neighbourhood pizza and kebab restaurant, also serving pasta, hamburgers and Indian cuisine. The food is very good but hardly spectacular. Comparable to more upscale restaurants in the city centre but for cheaper prices. A good choice for lunch in Katajanokka. Pizzas around €9.
Mid-range
[edit]- 2 Everest, Luotsikatu 12 A, ☏ +358 9 694-2563. A well-known "Nepalese" (north Indian) restaurant. Main dishes €10–20.
- 3 Kolme Kruunua (literally, the "Three Crowns"), Liisankatu 5 (in Kruununhaka), ☏ +358 9 135 4172, kolmekruunua@sijo.fi. M–Th 16:00–01:00, F 16:00–01.30, Sa 12:00–01:30, Su 12:00–01:00. A very-easy-to-like restaurant with traditional food, founded in 1952. Mains around €20–40.
- 4 Korea House, Mariankatu 19 (Tram 1, 1A, 7A,7B), ☏ +358 9 135-7158. M–F 11:00–23:00, Sa 12:00–23:00. The only Korean restaurant in Helsinki. A cozy place with friendly staff and even frequented by Korean travellers. You can try all sorts of Korean food here. Good value for the price at lunchtime (11:00–14:00) when dishes cost about half of what they otherwise do. Mains around €20, lunch around €10.
- 5 Zinnkeller, Meritullinkatu 25, ☏ +358 9 135-4148, zinnkeller@kolumbus.fi. 11:00-23:00 mostly. An authentic German restaurant in the middle of Helsinki, owned by a German immigrant family. Claims to be "the only German restaurant in Finland". Spacious with German-style decor. The menu is full of traditional German food with copious amounts of steaks, sausages, potatoes and sauerkraut. A wide variety of German beers and wines available. The staff are fluent in Finnish, German and English. Main courses €12–22..
Splurge
[edit]- 6 FishMarket, Pohjoisesplanadi 17 (in the corner of the Kauppatori market place), ☏ +358 9 6128 5250, sales@royalravintolat.com. M-F 11:30-23:00, Sa 17:00-23:00. High quality seafood restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere. Although on the expensive side, you can eat lunch there at more moderate prices. FishMarket is easy to reach by Trams 1 and 1A.
- 7 Wellamo, Vyökatu 9, ☏ +358 9 663139. Not strictly Russian, but a longtime favourite of both bohemians and the Orthodox community from nearby Uspensky Cathedral. Apart from the wonderful Russian dishes, lighter Mediterranean fare is also available.
Drink
[edit]Cafés
[edit]- 1 Cafe Engel, Aleksanterinkatu 26 (opposite the Lutheran cathedral). Where the locals go for tea and snacks. Very relaxed, lovely courtyard out the back with films projected late into summer evenings.
- 2 Espresso Edge, Liisankatu 29. A cosy bohemian café with a South American vibe, popular among the artsy types of the Kruununhaka neighbourhood, and Faculty of Social Science students from across the street.
Bars and nightclubs
[edit]- 3 Pataässä, Snellmaninkatu 13 (near the House of the Estates), ☏ +358 9 626 076, pataassa@sijo.fi. M-Th 20:00-04:30, F 18:00-05:00, Sa 09:00-05:00, Su 09:00-04:30. The first karaoke bar in Helsinki. There are two sides in the bar, the karaoke side and a tiny disco side. Also two karaoke kiosks for practicing singing in, suitable for max. two persons each.
- 4 Poseidon, Kruunuvuorenkatu 1, ☏ +358 10 5820380. 15:00-00:00 mostly. A Czech-style pub, a classic among inhabitants of Katajanokka. Poseidon was under renovation for a long time but it has since reopened.
- 5 Vapari, Merisotilaantori 1, ☏ +358 50 3402974. A rather small pub near the eastern tip of the Katajanokka peninsula. Stylish maritime decor.It's right next to a seniors' home, so many seniors come here often. Beer and cider available on tap but don't expect anything fancy. Beer about €8.
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- 1 Eurohostel, Linnankatu 9 (Tram 4, very close to the dock for the Viking Line ferry and the Uspenski Cathedral). Helsinki's largest hostel. Dorms from €24.10, single rooms from €45 (plus €2.50/person for non-HI members).
Mid-range
[edit]- 2 [dead link] Best Western Premier Hotel Katajanokka, Vyökatu 1, ☏ +358 9 686 450. Housed in what was the Nokka prison until 2002, this classy hotel has retained the original exterior and the internal corridor, but the rooms themselves, built by combining two to three cells, retain no trace of their past. Walking distance to city center. From €99.
- 3 Scandic Grand Marina, Katajanokanlaituri 7 (in Katajanokka), ☏ +358 9 16661, fax: +358 9 1666 500, grandmarina@scandichotels.com.
- 4 Senate Hotel, Snellmaninkatu 15 A (in Kruununhaka), ☏ +358 40 770 4400.
Splurge
[edit]- 5 The Hotel Maria, Mariankatu 23 (in Kruununhaka; in close proximity to the Presidential Palace and the Senate Square), ☏ +358 9 8860 0170, fax: +358 9 1666 500, sales@hotelmaria.fi. A 5-star luxury hotel with unique guest rooms and majestic suites. €380–440.
- 6 Pier 4 (Solo Sokos Hotel Pier 4), Katajanokanlaituri 4 (in Katajanokka; in close proximity to the Market Square and the Allas Sea Pool), ☏ +358 20 123 4609, pier4.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A wooden architectural hotel with a maritime environment, including a luxurious roof terrace.