Istanbul/Western Suburbs

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Western Suburbs are a collection of Istanbul neighborhoods, lying west of the city walls of old city. Bakırköy is the main center of this part of the city.

Understand[edit]

The western suburbs of Istanbul are mostly residential areas and range from multi-million villas in Florya on the coast of Marmara Sea to slums of Bağcılar in the north. In general, the districts on the Marmara coast are upscale, while the districts located farther north inland are full of buildings with no respect to building codes, and minimal aesthetic expectations (slum, in short).

Get in[edit]

These suburbs are actually main ports of entry into the city, as both the major airport and the main bus station (otogar) of the city is located in this district. Those travelling on their own vehicles also make it through this district first on the way to central Istanbul, when approaching from west.

By air[edit]

Istanbul’s primary airport, Atatürk International (IST), is located near Yeşilköy, within this district. For more detailed information about how to get to the city center from the airport, see the respective section of main Istanbul article. Please note, while the nearest neighborhood to the airport is Yeşilköy, it is not possible to walk or otherwise easily get to the airport from Yeşilköy, so it is important not to catch a bus or a train with a stop in ‘Yeşilköy’ while in need of getting to the airport. Always look for the dedicated ‘Airport’ (Havaalanı/Havalimanı) stop/station. The instructions on the main Istanbul article are correct, though.

By train[edit]

A suburban train (banliyö treni) line connects the coastal part of this district (including Bakırköy and Yeşilköy) with Sirkeci and with numerous other stations located in old city.

Trains from destinations in Europe or European Turkey don’t call at any of the stations located within this district. If you are arriving by a long-distance train, best way to get to these suburbs is to get off the (long-distance) train at Sirkeci station (last station) and then, to catch a suburban train there to your final destination.

By metro/tram[edit]

After starting in Aksaray and running underground through the old city, southern metro line (M1) leaves the old city in Ulubatlı-Topkapı station and enters the Western Suburbs. It runs towards northwest until the main bus station (otogar) in Esenler, where the line curves towards south to meet the tram line which leaves old city in underground Topkapı station by the city walls. After the tram/metro intersection in Zeytinburnu, the metro line starts running towards west and after passing through a couple of brief underground sections and the stations of Bakırköy (which actually is located 3 km north of downtown Bakırköy), Ataköy, and Yenibosna among others, it eventually reaches its terminus at Atatürk International Airport (station: Havalimanı).

By dolmuş[edit]

Dolmuşes operate on the following lines, almost 24 hours a day:

  • Taksim-Bakırköy
  • Taksim-Ataköy
  • Taksim-Yeşilköy

By bus[edit]

As anywhere else in Istanbul, there is a vast number of bus lines connecting this district with the rest of the city. The numbers of most useful lines are as follows:

  • 71T Taksim-Ataköy (via Aksaray in old city and a stop a little distance away from downtown Bakırköy)
  • 72T Taksim-Yeşilköy (via Aksaray in old city and a stop a little distance away from downtown Bakırköy)
  • 81 Eminönü-Yeşilköy (via the avenue located directly on the coast)
  • 94A Beyazıt-Bakırköy

Also very long, hybrid buses called Metrobüs which have their right-of-way ply through a route in the middle of the major highway heading west, in the north of Bakırköy. They depart from Mecidiyeköy and cut travel time dramatically.

By boat[edit]

Fast ferries from places in the Asian Side, or occasionally from Eminönü arrive at Bakırköy pier.

See[edit]

A wooden mansion in Yeşilköy
  • Aviation Museum (Havacılık Müzesi), Yeşilköy (north of downtown Yeşilköy, close to 'Yeşilköy' station on suburban train line),  +90 212 663-24-90, e-mail: . W-Su 9AM-5PM. A military-based museum with various warplanes, helicopters, and weapons used by Turkish Air Force, and also civilian air transport and many samples of Turkish aeronautics history, starting from Ottoman era are among the exhibition. 3.50 TL (there is a further fee of 6 TL to take photos).
  • TurkuazooForum İstanbul no:3, Kocatepe (inside Forum İstanbul shopping mall; metro: Kartaltepe-Kocatepe station on southern (Aksaray-Airport) metro line),  +90 212 640-27-40. M-F 10AM-6PM, S-Su 10AM-7PM. One of those typical huge aquariums where you walk through transparent tunnels underwater. 25 TL, students: 18 TL.
  • Yeşilköy (west of Bakırköy). A neighbourhood lying on the coast of Marmara Sea, Yeşilköy, or St. Stephen (Agios Stephanos) as called in ancient times, still partly retains more of a town atmosphere with its wooden mansions, churches, and a long verdant park lying along the beach - perfect to take a walk. (Buses: 72T from Taksim and Bakırköy, 81 from Eminönü; dolmuşes from Taksim; suburban train from Sirkeci and Bakırköy)

Do[edit]

Buy[edit]

  • GalleriaAtaköy (on the coast avenue. 15-20 min walk from Bakırköy),  +90 212 559 95 60. First modern shopping mall of Turkey, opened in 1980s.

Zeytinburnu (Bus lines: 93 from Eminönü, 93C from Beyazıt, 93M from Mecidiyeköy, 93T from Taksim. Get off at 'Adliye' stop.),  +90 212 547 74 53fax: +90 212 582 06 26, e-mail: . An outlet center.

  • PenkidHaznedar (Haznedar Mh. Marmara Cd. Altıntaş Sk. 15/C Güngören İSTANBUL),  +90 212 641 60 77. Hardwares

Eat[edit]

Budget[edit]

Mid-range[edit]

Splurge[edit]

  • Beyti RestaurantOrman sokak No:8, Florya +90 212 663 29 90fax: +90 212 663 29 95, e-mail: . Tue-Sun. Simply, one of the best restaurants in Istanbul, favoured by diners thanks to its delicious meat in the 45's at Küçükçekmece, in a pleasant environment, is like a monument of tradition remembered by people at every age. It has an honourable and respectable level on Turkish and international press. From 50 - 150 TL per person.
  • Yüksel Balık LokantasıLiman Sokak No:3, Yeşilköy +90 212 663 97 42. Great seafood. They can give great advice on what is the best fish for the season and other dishes in general. Around US$ 50 per person.

Drink[edit]

Sleep[edit]

Accommodation in this district are mostly upscale and located around the airport.

  • Çınar HotelŞevketiye Mah. Fener Mevkii, Yeşilköy +90 212 663-29-00fax: +90 212 663-29-21, e-mail: . 5-star hotel with indoor and outdoor swimming pools located on the waterfront of Yeşilköy, close to the airport. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, air-con, balcony, internet connection, safebox, and cable TV.

Caravan park[edit]

With the closure of relatively central Ataköy caravan park, the only place where you can tow your caravan in the city is now located in Selimpaşa, officially a village until recently, though given that there is no open fields in between it is practically a suburb of the rapidly expanding city. However, it is still a good 40 km away from central parts of the city but fortunately there are 6-lane highways and motorways connecting it to central Istanbul, as well as fairly frequent public buses (though the actual caravan park is located a little away from public bus lines), so transportation won't be a problem.

  • Istanbul MocampSelimpaşa (quit the motorway (TEM/E80/O-3) in 'Selimpaşa' exit, and then follow 'Ortaköy' signs; or if on the coastal highway of D100, make the sharp U-turn towards Ortaköy as soon as entering Selimpaşa; after about driving 200 mt on the road to Ortaköy, turn right towards Ovayenice immediately in front of those five identical villas; after about driving 4 km on the road to Ovayenice, take the right turn towards Poyraz Çiftliği (there is a sign indicating the road), Mocamp is located 800 mt ahead on the left on this road),  +90 212 710-11-25, +90-533-564-60-30 (mobile)fax: + 90 212 710-11-25, e-mail: . Offers hot and cold water, flush toilets, showers, kitchen, electricity hook-up, laundry, swimming pool, children playground, cafe, and pay phones in a setting with a distant sea view. Adults €4 each, no credit cards accepted.

Stay safe[edit]

There are some sections of waterfront park between Bakırköy and old city walls, where you may feel uncomfortable due to the homeless people and inhalant abusers—best avoided at night.

Connect[edit]

This is a usable district travel guide to Istanbul/Western Suburbs. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!