- For other places with the same name, see Geneva (disambiguation).
Geneva (French: Genève, German: Genf), Switzerland's second-most populous city and the largest French-speaking city in Switzerland, is one of the world's major centers of international diplomacy, having served as the site of the initial headquarters of the International Committee of the Red Cross. Although the United Nations is now headquartered in New York, the organization still retains a large presence in Geneva at the Palais des Nations and many of its sister/child organizations, such as the World Health and International Labour Organizations. Geneva itself has only 188,000 citizens but 780,000 people live in the metropolitan region.
In 1536, a young man named Jean Calvin, fleeing the persecution of Protestants in France, spent a night in Geneva. As it turned out, he was to do a lot more there than sleeping. After being expelled from Geneva for nearly three years, Calvin returned triumphantly in 1541 to help elevate the city to the rank of a Protestant Rome. The intellectual influence of the Reformation extended to all realms of Genevan life: politics, economy, and administration.
Geneva was an independent republic from at least the 16th century until it became a Swiss Canton on 31 Dec 1813. This is a point of some pride to the Genevois, who still refer to their Canton as the République et Canton de Genève. A favorite festival is the yearly celebration of the Escalade, which commemorates a failed attempt in 1602 by the forces of the Dukes of Savoy to invade the city by climbing and otherwise breaching the city walls. Having turned aside this invasion attempt at the cost of only 16 lives, Geneva had secured its liberty, since the House of Savoy was never again strong enough on this side of the Alps to attempt such an invasion.
Geneva is still a very proud city. Some find it downright stuffy, although there is quite a bit more life to be found if you look under the surface, especially if you speak some French.
Geneva is officially a French-speaking city, and the vast majority of the population speak French. All advertisements, information, and signs are in French. With the large international presence, English takes a close second. Spanish, Russian, Portuguese, and Arabic speakers abound, and of course you will also occasionally hear German and Italian.
Due as much to its location as its international status, Geneva serves as a transportation hub for most of French speaking Switzerland and for access to the Swiss Alps from points west.
Geneva airport (also called Cointrin) is served by almost all European carriers and has also good connections from most major Northern African and Middle Eastern airports. From North America there are a couple of daily direct flights from New York, Washington D.C. and Montreal and in addition to that Air China has four weekly non-stop flights from Beijing.
Within the last few years, Geneva itself has become a hub for the low-cost carrier Easy Jet serving a number of destinations in Europe including Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Edinburgh, London, Madrid, Manchester and Paris.
The airport itself has a UBS bank with ATMs and exchange machines in the arrival area. There is an American Express office just beyond passport control in the departure lounge. There are several cafés and duty free shopping as well, open 08:00-23:00.
To get into town from the airport, taxis cost approximately CHF30. The number 10 bus leaves every 15 minutes from 06:00 to 23:00. Get off at the 22-Cantons stop for train station. Bus 5 also goes to the central railway station but along a different route passing close by the UN building and stopping at rue de Lausanne. Both buses then continue to the southern side of the city. All trains leaving Geneva airport train station stop at the main train/bus station. Train/bus tickets are around CHF3.50 (valid for one hour) and can be purchased at machines at the bus stop and in the train station. A free transport ticket to the city of Geneva can be obtained from the Geneva Transport (TPG) machine in the baggage claim area. This ticket is valid for 80 minutes anywhere in Geneva and suburbs, for trains, buses and yellow boats (with this ticket you can go as far as CERN or Anières or Veyrier). There is a change machine next to the UBS ATM. The best alternative is to take the free public transport ticket, hop on any train to Geneva (5 minutes) and either take a taxi from there or continue on the public transport system.
The Swiss Federal Railway (Called "CFF" in Geneva and the rest of French-speaking Switzerland) serves Geneva's Gare de Cornavin (also called Gare Cornavin or simply Cornavin) with trains to Zürich, St. Gallen, Basel and Bern every half-hour. Regional trains heading to Nyon and Lausanne leave every 15 minutes.
The Gares des Eaux-Vives is another public transport station and it is situated on the southeastern side of the lake. It has French bus services with the SNCF to and from Evian, Chamonix and Annecy. It's being renovated, as a new railroad is built to link Cornavin to this train station.
International trains leaving from Cornavin include the SNCF (French National Railway) high-speed TGV service — there is a direct service from Geneva to Paris with a journey time of three hours as well as a direct service to Nice with a journey time of six hours. Geneva is also the starting point for the night train service to Barcelona, a journey time of nine and a half hours. Many Italian cities are connected to Geneva, notably the "Cisalpino" service, connecting Geneva to Milan and Venice. There is also a night train service to Florence and Rome Termini Station.
For more information:
- Swiss Federal Railway website, telephone +41 900 300 300. Provides a useful on-line travel planner, which includes information about local bus and tram services, as well as rail services and can plan your journey from any address to Geneva. The mobile app can also be used to buy train tickets, the account has to be set-up on the website beforehand.
Unless otherwise announced, most trains arriving in the Gare de Cornavin will usually have the Geneva Airport as their final destination (if they come from elsewhere in Switzerland), which means you don't have to use the TPG (Geneva Public Transport Company) tram or bus to get there.
While not anything special in architectural terms, Gare Cornavin is, nevertheless, exceptionally well designed, and a key part of Geneva's public transport network. City tram and bus routes converge at a terminal located directly outside the front doors of the station, making transition from train to public transit extremely easy. If you're staying in a hotel, hostel or campground, don't buy more than a single ticket. Geneva provides free transit passes to any tourist staying in one of these types of accommodation. Ask the reception if you did not receive it at check-in. The station also features a basement-level shopping concourse, along with an underground passage which connects to the south side of the busy main street, permitting new arrivals to avoid crossing busy roads. The passage also connects to a lovely, open-air pedestrianized shopping street, leading down to the lake.
The motorway network brings you right into Geneva, only 40km from Annecy and 80km from Chamonix with customs at Bardonnex - Saint-Julien. You need the compulsory motorway sticker (single annual CHF40 fee) to come through this customs office. Purchase of the motorway tax sticker (aka Vignette) at one of the customs is obligatory in order to drive on Swiss motorways.
To avoid the purchase of a vignette, you can enter Geneva through other crossing points at Thônex-Vallard or Moillesulaz, for example. If, however, you decide later to drive on the motorway, you will need to purchase a vignette — you can generally purchase the vignette at Petrol Stations, Post Offices or at Tourist Offices.
Geneva is served by a number of regular international bus routes (Bus station: tel. +41 22 732-0230). Additionally, the TPG (Geneva Public Transport) provide regular services from the neighbouring French towns of Saint-Julien, Archamps, Thoiry, Ferney-Voltaire, Moillesulaz (tel. +41 22 308-3434).
Regular boat services are provided, mainly in paddle steamers built between 1904 and 1927, from ports all around Lake Geneva by Compagnie Générale de Navigation. All boats arrive at the Paquis port after docking briefly at Parc des Eaux Vives and the Jardin Anglais.
Private boat tours and transfers from Geneva to any port on the lake by Léman Transfers. Groups of up to six passengers can be privately chauffeured around the lake.
- Old Town (vieille ville) and St. Gervais
The old-town can be easily visited on foot starting anywhere around the tour boat dock on Lake Geneva, or if you come from the Cornavin station, walk down to the Bel-Air island and continue straight on uphill to the old town. Crossing the bridge (Pont du Mont Blanc), you'll get to the English Garden with the famous flower clock and a sculpted bronze water fountain. Then you can cross the street (Quai de General Guisan) and go up the hill (on Place du Port and Rue de la Fontaine) and up the long stairs passage and end up behind Saint Peter's Cathedral. After visiting the cathedral, which is Geneva's well-known landmark, you can exit the courtyard and be right in front of Geneva City Hall. From there you can easily walk down to the Bastions Park where you can find the famous Reformation Wall memorial. This park is very quiet and romantic, especially at the beginning of the fall season when the leaves start falling. See this walking route in pictures.
Geneva is fairly walkable but the fact that the name of some streets change frequently as you walk can make navigation difficult. For instance the street from Bel-Air square to Rive roundabout has five different names on a section of less than a kilometre.
Geneva is a great town to get around in by bicycle. Except for the old-town, the city is fairly flat, and though there are some streets that are dangerous to ride, there is almost always a safe, fast route to your destination. If you want to know the best routes, you should get a copy of the beautifully designed VELO-LOVE plan de ville, which is available at all bike shops in Geneva, or by writing to: email@example.com or calling +41 22 418-4200.
A social organization called Genèveroulelends bicycles free of charge (for four hours and then a fee of 2 CHF per extra hour), from 30 April through 30 October. A passport or identity card must be shown and a refundable deposit of 20CHF is required. Six stations are located along the lake, behind the railway station, in Eaux-Vives (Terrassière) the Plaine de Plainpalais and at Carouge. While this service is quite convenient, be sure to bring ID and contact information, including hotel phone number, to speed up the paperwork.
Otherwise, if you're looking for a road bike or a trekking bike, then there is a shop very near the train station called "Bike Switzerland".
By public transportation
Geneva, like most cities in Switzerland, is a marvel of public transportation efficiency. Transports Publics Genevois (TPG) provides frequent bus, tram, 'mouette' (boat), and suburban train service to within a block or two of most locations in the city and canton.
Tickets cost CHF2 for a short hop (three stops or less, or a one-way crossing of the lake). CHF3.50 for one hour with unlimited changes on tram, bus, boat, and rail within greater Geneva, CHF8 for a day pass valid 09:00-23:59, and CHF10.80 for an extended day pass valid from the time it is purchased until 05:00 the next morning. Holders of the SBB Demi-Tarif/Halbtax card get 20-30% off these prices. The ticket machines do not give change, if you have over paid, keep the ticket and take it to a TPG office (located at the airport, Cornavin railway station and in the middle of the roundabout at de Rive), where the difference will be refunded to you. If you're staying for more than a few days, consider buying a week ticket for CHF38. It's sold at official TPG offices, located at Cornavin station, Rive roundabout and the suburb of Grand-Lancy (the last one is pretty off the beaten path for most visitors).
Since January 2008, if you stay in a hotel, hostel, or on a camping site, you will get free public transport. Typically, you will receive a Unireso Geneva Transport Card at check-in. It will be authorised for use for the length of your stay and like a ticket one gets in the airport upon arrival it is valid for Geneva and suburbs including the Unireso network. You are supposed to carry your passport or identity card with you at the same time, to ensure validity. The ticket is valid on trains as far as the airport. One pass is valid for a maximum of 15 days, and it is valid also on the day you check out from your place of stay, which is handy if you have a late flight and want do some sightseeing or shopping.
Tickets, which cover both trams and buses, must be bought from ticket machines (located at every stop) before boarding the transport. Some bus stops do not have a ticket machine, but in that case you can buy a ticket on board the bus itself.
You can get pretty much everywhere by bus. Some routes are rather confusing, so it's good to get a map of the network which can be picked up at the official ticket vending points, or viewed/printed out from their web page. When you are on the bus, however, bus stops are both announced and visible on a screen (on most buses).
Observe that you will need to purchase a separate ticket if you are travelling outside the canton of Geneva - ie. to or from France or the canton of Vaud. "Ordinary" tickets and day passes are only valid inside Geneva. Bus stops in France that are served by the Genevan transport authority do not have ticket vending machines, instead you have to buy the tickets from vending machines on board the bus when traveling from France.
Geneva currently has a network of four tram lines; 12, 14, 15 and 18. Three of them pass through the major transportation hub at the Cornavin train station, and all of them have a station close to Place Bel-Air on the old-town side of the river. If you did not receive a TPG / Unireso card from your hotel, you will need to buy a ticket from one of the ticket machines located at every stop before boarding the transport. Tickets cover both trams and buses.
The "mouette" service is included in the TPG / Unireso card that tourists receive free of charge from their hotels. This is a nice way to get from the Pâquis station near the Quai du Mont-Blanc in the northwest to the other side of the lake, e.g. to the Eaux-Vives stop near the Jardin Anglais. Boats run every 10 minutes. See the home page of the boat operator for more information.
If you want to explore the mountainous countryside or go skiing in one of the ski resorts in the Alps, getting a car is a better option. Numerous local and international car rental service providers operate from the airport. They provide customized traveling services to the needs of tourists visiting Geneva.
Suburban trains to outskirts run every half hour during the day and every hour after 20:00. The last train to the eastern terminus, (Coppet), leaves at 00:03. Though these "Regios" mostly serve commuters, at least two of their station stops, Versoix and Coppet, have several good restaurants and historic main streets. There is also another suburban rail line: the RER Genève, which goes from Cornavin to La Plaine, sometimes continuing to France (2 stops from La Plaine). As with buses and trams, tickets must be bought before boarding the train. If you are only travelling with the canton of Geneva, a bus/tram ticket is valid on the train and vice versa; travelling further afield will cost more unless you buy a so-called regional ticket, which also includes parts of Vaud and France.
- Jet d'Eau, the Rade (visible from most of the Lac Léman waterfront). daily 10:00-23:00. One of the crowning symbols of Geneva is the monumental Jet d'Eau, a fountain of water pumped 140m into the air. The spectacular plume was once an occasional pressure release for hydro-power generation on the Rhône River, but people liked it so much that in 1891 the city created a permanent pumped fountain. It's beautifully lit at night. Best viewed from a distance — the surrounding half kilometer is soaked with water. However, the more adventurous might want to try the pathway leading right up to the Jet d'eau -- prepare to get enjoyably wet! Free.
- Cathédrale St-Pierre and Calvin's auditorium, Place St. Pierre (At the highest point in the Old Town). Jun-Sep, M-Sa 9AM-7PM, Su 11AM-7PM; Oct-May, M-Sa 10AM-noon and 2PM-5PM, Su 11AM-12:30PM and 1:30PM-5PM. The new Espace Saint Pierre pass includes entrance to all three sites of Cour Saint-Pierre, a noteworthy space of unique spiritual and cultural importance. The Cathedral and its towers, originally Catholic, both embody the high point of the Reformed tradition and explore the origins of Christianity with an extensive archaeological site and they are now complemented by the International Museum of the Reformation on the ground floor of the Maison Mallet. An underground passage, reopened when the Museum was created, connects the two buildings. The archeological tour beneath the cathedral is excellent for archeology fans it explains the origins not only of the cathedral but the reason for Geneva's location back to pre-Roman times. Those willing to climb the steps of the Cathedral's towers will be rewarded with magnificent views of Geneva and the lake. Nearby, the Auditoire, where Calvin taught, completes a complex that is both representative of the past and open to current questions. The new Espace Saint-Pierre thus aims to contribute to our understanding of today’s world – between tradition and modernity, cultural experimentation and spiritual practice. These three buildings invite the visitor to explore the city’s history. Religious denominations aside, Espace Saint Pierre represents a spirit that continues to guide the city and citizens of Geneva today. For schedules and information about free live organ performances in the cathedral, go to the website Concerts cathédrale. Adults 16CHF (Seniors, Disabled, Students aged 16-25, and groups of more than 15 qualify for a 10CHF pass, children aged 7-16 qualify for an 8CHF pass. Entry to the church itself is free, of course, but donations are welcome.).
- Old Town (Vieille Ville). Aside of the cathedral the Old town in general is worth walking around in for a hour or two. Among the highlights are the city hall with the cannons in the little square opposite to it, Rousseau's birth house and various antique shops with all sorts of interesting stuff in the windows. A word of warning to people with physical disabilities: the Old town, is situated on a hill with quite steep streets leading up to it.
- Palais des Nations, 14, Avenue de la Paix (Number 8 bus, stop at Appia), ☎ , fax: +41 22 917 0032, e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Open daily Apr-Oct 10AM-noon and 2PM-4PM; Jul-Aug 10AM-5PM; the rest of the year M-F 10AM-noon and 2PM-4PM (except over the Christmas period). Originally built to house the League of Nations, the Palais is worth visiting just to take in the magnificent Assembly Hall, in addition to the large collection of public art, the library, and the landscaped grounds. 12CHF each for adults. (groups of 20 adults or more qualify for a 20% discount; private tour of 1-14 adults 127.50CHF; 10CHF each for students, senior citizens, and disabled persons; 4CHF for schoolchildren; free for children under six years old). Passports are required for entry.
- Quartier des Grottes, Place des Grottes (north of Gare Cornavin). An area with interesting shops and most importantly, a series of residential buildings called "les Schtroumpfs" (1982-1984), where the architects tried to avoid all straight lines, leading to an unconventional Gaudi-like appearance. Free.
- Monument Brunswick, Quai du Mont-Blanc. An impressive monument, constructed in 1873 as a Mausoleum for the Duke of Brunswick, as a replica of the tomb of the Scaligeri family in Verona (14th century). Also worth visiting for the 5 star hotels and the cars in front of them. Free.
- Île Rousseau, Pont des Bergues. Small island where the lake ends and river Rhône begins named after the famous philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau - of course there's a statue of him there too. Free.
- L'Ile. Worth visiting for the old Tour de L'Ile, the remains of a fortified castle erected in the 13th century. Very good. Free.
- Place Neuve. See the impressive Grand Theatre (1879, renovated after a fire in 1951), the Conservatoire de musique, and the Musée Rath. Also visit the Parc des Bastions, which includes a large wall ("Mur des Réformateurs") showing some of the famous people of the Reformation movement.
- Eaux-Vives. While many of Geneva's buildings are similar in style to what you would find in French cities, the Mairie of Eaux-Vives is a great example of the typical Swiss architecture you would find in cities like Zürich. If you're interested in modern architecture, also visit Rue Saint-Laurent for "La Clarté", an avant-garde building designed by Le Corbusier in 1931/32. Another interesting attraction here is the Russian Orthodox Church built 1859-1866 with its golden cupolas.
- Carouge. A district of Geneva that once belonged to the Kingdom of Sardinia and hence retains a distinct Italian flavour.
- Jardin botanique (Main entrance: corner of Rue de Lausanne and Avenue de la Paix, take bus 8, 11, or 25). At the botanical garden you can see flowers, plants and trees both from the Alps and from other parts of the world. The palm house also hosts tropical vegetation. In the northern part of the park there is a zoo spread over a quite large area with birds and some Alpine mammals such as goats and deer. free.
Museums and Galleries
- International Museum of the Reformation, 4, rue du Cloître (Bus n° 36 to Cathédrale/ Bus n° 2, 7, 20, stop Molard/ Tram 12, 16, stop Molard), ☎ , fax: +41 22 310 74 45, e-mail: email@example.com. Open daily, except Monday, 10:00-17:00. Closed on 24, 25 and 31 December and on 1 January. Open Easter, Pentecost, and Jeune Federal Mondays. Access for disabled visitors.. Installed on the ground floor of the magnificent Maison Mallet (next to Saint-Pierre Cathedral), this new Museum presents the main spiritual and cultural elements of the Reformation. Unique objects, manuscripts, rare books, engravings, and paintings illustrate the close ties between Geneva and the Reformation. State-of-the-art technology welcomes a modern audience: films, a music room, and demonstrations, including many for children, invite visitors to both rediscover the past and imagine the future. 10CHF for Adults; Seniors, Disabled, Students from 16-25 years old qualify for a 7CHF admission fee; Children age 7-16 years old and groups of 15 or more qualify for a CHF5 admission fee; Children under 7 are free. For another CHF3, you can explore the archaeological site beneath the cathedral and climb the tower inside the cathedral, which has some amazing views of the city.
- Museum of the International Committee of the Red Cross, 17, Avenue de la Paix (8, F, V, or Z bus to Appia CHF1.80 from the central station), ☎ , fax: +41 22 748 95 28. Open Daily, except Monday, from 10:00-17:00. Closed on 24, 25 and 31 December and on 1 January. Access for disabled visitors.. The Museum of the I.C.R.C. is one of the best in Europe, providing detailed photographic and other physical evidence of the I.C.R.C.'s service to humanity during countless wars and natural disasters. The displays are striking and affecting, but somehow manage to avoid taking sides. CHF15 for Adults. Children, I.C.R.C. members, the elderly, and others qualify for a CHF7 admission fee.
- Musée ARIANA, Avenue de la Paix 10 (About midway between Place des Nations and the entrances to the Palais and the I.C.R.C), ☎ . Open daily (except Tuesdays) 11AM-5PM. Occupying a big chunk of what would otherwise be the UN campus, the Ariana Museum offers a huge collection (16,000 pieces) of ceramics from around Europe and the far East. 8CHF.
- Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain, Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10 (Number 1 bus to Ecole des Medécins), ☎ . Tu-F Noon-6PM. Sa-Su 11AM-6PM. Late modern, post-modern, and contemporary works by internationally known artists, as well as a special collection of Swiss conceptual work. 8CHF.
- Musée d'Histoire Naturelle, Route de Malagnou 1 (Bus 1-8 (arrêts Tranchées & Muséum) 20-27 (arrêt Muséum), trams 12-16 (arrêt Villereuse)), ☎ . Tu-Su 9:30AM-5PM. Geneva has a nice museum which is worth a visit, especially if you have youth and children. Free.
- Musée d'Art et d'Histoire, Rue Charles-Galland 2, ☎ 022 418 26 00. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM. Extensive art and archaeological-historical collections. Painting gallery extends back to the early Renaissance, but is most extensive in Swiss-French and Impressionist works. Free, except special exhibits.
- Fondation Baur, Musée des Arts d’Extrême-Orient, 8 rue Munier-Romilly, ☎ 022 704 32 82. Tu-Su 2PM-6PM. The largest collections of Far Eastern art open to the public in Switzerland. Temporary exhibitions are regularly organized several times a year. 10CHF.
- Patek Philippe Museum, 7 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers, ☎ . Tu-Fr 2PM-6PM, Sa 10AM-6PM. Four floors of stunningly beautiful watches and clocks from the last centuries, both Patek Philippe and other brands. There is also a section presenting watchmaking in practice. Bags (even shopping bags) are banned in the museum so leave them in your hotel room or somewhere else! Adults 10CHF, Seniors/people with disabilities/unemployed/students 7CHF, under 18 y.o. free.
- CERN's exhibitions, 385 Route de Meyrin. The nuclear research center CERN has two free exhibitions, both presenting the history of the complex, it's equipment, scientific breakthroughs and the scientists behind them. The one behind the reception is called Microcosm and the one opposite the road in the big "Globe of Science and Innovation" bears the name Universe of Particles. There are also guided tours at the premises but they need to be booked in advance. The reception has a small souvenir shop; this is you opportunity to get yourself a CERN helmet! Free.
- Musée d'histoire des sciences, Villa Bartholoni, 128 rue de Lausanne (buses 8 and 25, located in the Perle du Lac park.). Museum dedicated to scientists who've lived and worked in Geneva. You can see old equipment from telescopes to galvanometers and glass eyes. free.
- Maison Tavel, 6 Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre (in the old town, near the city hall and the cathedral). Three floors presenting the history of Geneva from the Middle Ages until the 19th century. There's an entrance fee to the temporary exhibitions in the basement. free.
- Salève cable car (Téléphérique du Salève), Veyrier, France (Number 8 Bus to either Veyrier Douane or Veyrier Tournettes. Or line 41 to Veyrier-École). Just over the French border, this high alpine ridge has a stunning view of Mt. Blanc and the Lake Geneva area and miles of walking trails. A cute little corner shop in Pas de l'Échelle Village (France) sells about 100 varieties of French cheeses and is open on Sundays. Don't forget your passport. The Association Genevoise des Amis du Salève (AGAS, Tel: 022 796 41 33 or ) organizes free hikes around Geneva every Sunday. Start at 10AM (sharp) at terminus (End station) of bus number 8 at Veyrier-Douane.
- Genève Plage (buses 2 and 6). There are many smaller places where to swim in either the rivers or the lake, but the largest one is Genève Plage (literally "Geneva Beach") at the eastern bank of the lake. It's a nice place to swim, enjoy the sun, play, barbecue, or just hang out.
- International Geneva Motor Show, in the Palexpo center next to the airport.
- Caves Ouvertes. Free annual event. Sample wine at Geneva's wineries while exploring the canton's rural side.
- Bol d'Or. Yacht Race (biggest in Europe).
- Fête de la Musique, ☎ . For three days in June, the whole City of Geneva is a stage. Actually, there are on the order of 40 of them. The musical offerings include children's choirs, punk rock, chamber orchestras, jam bands, avant-guard jazz, klezmer, and drum and bass DJs. The venues are as diverse as the music, with stages inside and out of l'Usine, Parc des Bastions, and even Cathédral St. Pierre. There is also a wide assortment of international food and drink for sale, which can be a bit pricey, but highly worth it. The easiest way to get information is to just head to one of the parks listed above and find one of the free newspaper-style festival guides. It includes time-tables and maps. Additionally, be sure to wander around, as the festival is full of many excellent unofficial performances, including drums, juggling, and dance. Free.
- Fêtes de Genève. Week long party, including best fireworks display in Europe.
- L'Escalade. Running and walking competitions open to everybody.
It's worth taking at least a day to explore the green places of Geneva, of which there are quite a few, not the least because some of the more interesting parts of town are between those green places. There are a number of suggested promenades for which there are maps available at the tourist office on the Ile de la Machine.
- Parc des Bastions, entrance at Place Neuve or just down rue St. Léger from Place Bourg de Four.. This lovely tree lined park, which is home to the liberal arts campus of the University of Geneva features giant chessboards and even larger statues of Geneva's Calvinist founding fathers, and it's directly between the old town and Plain de Plainpalais, so it makes a good transitional area for exploring.
- Parc des Eaux Vives, entrance at the far end of Rue des Eaux Vives and the number 2 bus line. There's also a boat dock, with service from the Pâquis.. This park offers promenades and views over the lake of the U.N. campus and the Palais des Nations. Geneva beach is at the end furthest from the city, on the lakefront.
- Parc de la Grange. Just along the south side of the Lake Geneva promenade, Parc de la Grange is a large park which contains a rose garden, an historic mansion and a tree-lined path leading to the nearby Parc des Eaux Vives.
- Bois de la Bâtie. Just over the river Arve from Jonction. Most of this woodsy bluff has been left in a more-or-less natural state, though there are walking trails around the edges. The trails connect eventually with a sidewalk which crosses a railroad bridge to the St. Jean neighborhood. There is also a small (free) zoo at the western edge of the woods. If you don't like to walk up the trail from the river you can take the bus up to Claire Vue.
- Jardin Anglais. A small park where people like to spend their lunch break. Located at the bank of Lake Geneva, just as you've crossed over the Mont Blanc bridge to the southern half of the city. In the summer there are many small concerts and funfairs held in the park, especially around at the time of the "city party" Fête de Gèneve. Don't miss the flower decorated clock at the southwestern edge of the park.
- La Perle du Lac, Rue de Lausanne (buses 8 and 25). Translates to the "Pearl of the lake" and is the largest park on the western bank of Lake Geneva. It hosts the splendid eponymous restaurant and a free science museum, but it also a great place for a picnic.
French language lessons are available, both through formal courses and informal arrangements, but in both cases they can be more expensive than other French-speaking countries.
- Geneva University also offers quite cheap classes and there are a number of the big language schools, including Berlitz and Inlingua.
- One well-known school is École Du Monde located near the train station and near the lake of Geneva.
- Migros also offers language courses at rather decent prices.
- IFAGE (Fondation pour la formation des adultes) has a strong reputation locally, and offers intensive French courses in addition to vocational training and language courses aimed at locals. IFAGE also offers preparation for the French Government's DELF and DALF exams.
There are several English language universities in Geneva, mostly focusing on international business and relations.
The world-famous European Organization for Nuclear Research CERN is in Meyrin, just outside of Geneva. From April 2011, the new tram line 14 runs to the CERN campus from Cornavin station in downtown. It is hosting the Large Hadron Collider (LHC) which, at 27km in circumference, holds the title of "world's largest machine". It will hopefully answer many fundamental questions in particle physics and open a host of new ones. CERN has a famous summer student program that accepts 150 European students, 20 American students, and a handful from other countries. CERN also features an exhibition open to the public and tours can be arranged in advance. . The World-Wide Web started here at CERN.
Many foreign professionals working in Geneva are employed by one of the United Nations agencies or international banks. Non-Swiss UN employees get a special visa to live and work in Switzerland, but the jobs can be hard to find unless you are already in Geneva. Of course if you speak French and are a EU citizen, you can accept a job offer by any other employer since the bileteral agreements between Switzerland and the EU allow you to work here as anywhere else on the continent - whether you are a blue or white collar worker. Since the beginning of 2009 unemployment is on the rise though and it is proving more and more difficult to find a post in all fields regardless of the work permit issue.
If you are not very proficient in French, it is also possible to find work as an au pair, a housekeeper, or at one of the many bars. You really do need to be in town to set this sort of thing up. If you want to do household work, you will probably want to advertise on the bulletin boards which can be found at the entrances of most grocery stores, at the English and American churches, and at the American Women's Club. For a bar tending job, you do what you would do to get a similar job anywhere else, go talk to the manager (you should know enough French to serve drinks, obviously).
Switzerland is famed as a land of banks and financial institutions, so getting local cash from ATMs at banks, train station and within shopping malls should pose no problem. Also, Euros are accepted at many larger stores and places that cater to international visitors.
- Chocolate can be bought at any number of specialty stores, but the stuff at the grocery is just as good for a fraction of the price (1-3 CHF a bar). Meanwhile, if you have a place to prepare meals the grocery stores in Switzerland offer the best possible dining deal for your money. For many fresh foods you'll pay a lot more than you are accustomed to paying in the U.S. or Britain.
- Wine and spirits cost much less than in Anglophone countries, and the local stuff is particularly cheap, and not just drinkable but quite good. Some say that the only reason Swiss wines are not well known internationally is that the Swiss drink all of it.
- Shopping for clothing and accessories can be disappointing in Geneva. Most offerings are usually expensive and uninteresting, unless you're really after that floor-length purple fur coat with the rhinestone trim. Geneva is home to several watch manufacturers, and there are many jewelers and horologers with a great selection.
- If you are interested in taking or sending home some outwardly Swiss souvenirs you can certainly find them in Geneva, mainly along the main streets leading down to the lake from Gare Cornavin. There are also a couple of good spots on the other side of the lake near the end of the Mont Blanc bridge. You should be able to easily find at reasonable prices:
- Cuckoo clocks (in fact originally from southern Germany and formerly produced in Hong Kong (now in mainland China... but who cares!).
- Swiss Army Knifes, with Wenger and Victorinox being the two most well-known brands (Best price at Migros/Coop).
- Almost any sort of object with a cow or a Swiss flag printed on it.
- Want more? La Rue du Marché. , a 5 minute walk southwards from the train station, has just about everything. From the traditional to the modern, from souvenirs to household appliances to libraries to prescription glasses. This is one of Geneva's busiest streets, and is kept clean and appealing. Prices are fair for the most part, but checking several stores before buying, or asking a friendly-looking passer-by for shopping tips can't hurt.
- If you are looking for Louis Vuitton-fashion and golden wristwatches, Rue du Rhône. on the south side of the river (running parallel to Marché) is a good place. Of course you can easily find them elsewhere in the city - this is Switzerland!
- Manor, 6 rue de Cornavin (a few minute's walk from the central railway station). Mo-We 9AM-7PM, Th 9AM-9PM, Fr 9AM-7.30PM, Sa 8.30AM-6PM. A department store in the city center where you can buy clothes, food, electronics, souvenirs, clocks etc. There is a self service restaurant on the top floor.
- Centre Commercial Cygnes, 16-20 rue de Lausanne (near the central railway station). A variety of smaller shops and eateries under one roof a short walk along Rue de Lausanne from the railway station.
- Flea market at Plainpalais. each Saturday. If you like flea markets and shuffling through old stuff like vinyl records, books, chinaware etc., especially stuff with a Swiss and French background and happen to be in Geneva on a Saturday (or some Wednesdays), Plainpalais square is definitely where you should head.
Geneva has a huge number of restaurants for a city its size, and the international community means there's more variety than you'll find in most Swiss cities. On the downside, Geneva is possibly the most expensive city in an expensive country. Additionally, it can be quite difficult to find food on Sunday night, so it might be worth planning ahead or just visiting the more touristy region near the train station. If you have the possibility to cook your own food, self catering is a good idea to save money. If you are staying for a longer period, it's a good idea to make shopping trips to supermarkets in France where many foods cost less than half of what they do in Geneva.
There are many budget spots located around the train station and in the nearby Paquis district, or near rue de l'Ecole de Médecine off Plaine de Plainpalais.
- Buvette des Bains (Bains des Paquis), 30, quai du Mont-Blanc (jetée des Bains des Pâquis), ☎ , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Wonderful place in the middle of the lake. Beach in Summer, fondue restaurant in Winter. Good "plat du jour" all day for CHF12 CHF12-20.
- Crêperie des Pâquis, Rue de Zurich 6 (Near Courvain), ☎ . Open evenings. This is a lovely little créperie with savoury and sweet crépes, and very friendly service. A complete meal of one savoury crépe, one sweet, and a small salad for CHF21. Drinks vary in price from CHF3 for hot milk, to somewhat more for wine and beer. Vegetarian and gluten-free options are available. CHF30.
- Espresso Club, rue des Pâquis 25 (just off of Place de Navigation), ☎ . M-F until 02:00. A tiny bar and three tables means this little local spot is usually packed with a very international crowd of people who know where to get the best pizza, salads, and pasta dishes in town, with many vegetarian selections. Espresso club keeps the ovens going late for late working customers and it's a nice spot for a café and newspaper afternoon as well. Unfortunately the quality of its customer service does not mirror that of its pizzas. CHF1-20.
- L'Entrecôte Couronnée, rue des Pâquis 5 (close to rue de Alpes), ☎ . 10:00-14:15 & 19:00-22:45, closed on Sundays. (sic) it really is spelled that way, we know it's wrong, take it up with the owners of the café 30-40CHF for main course.
- Café Art's, rue des Pâquis 17, ☎ . M-F 17:00-02:00, Sa-Su 11:00-02:00. Café Art's (sic) has a limited menu of salads and pasta dishes, but all around or under 15 CHF and service is non-stop all day. CHF8-20.
- Sing Fa la maison du Ravioli (Sing Fa dumpling house), Rue de la Calle 42, ☎ . morning-midnight (closed on Monday lunch), opened 7 days a week. Serves fairly authentic Chinese dumplings and noodles. CHF14-20.
- Boky, Rue des Alpes 21 (also Rue Neuve du Molard 19), ☎ . 18:00-23:59. Large selection of Chinese and Japanese dishes. Fast, but impolite service. Quality Chinese food (it's always full of Chinese customers) but no fancy atmosphere. CHF14-20.
- Piment Vert, 4 place Grenus (the small plaza behind the Manor department store), ☎ . Indian and Sri-Lankan fast food in a charmingly appointed space. There's also a terrace during warm weather. CHF14-20.
- Chez Ma Cousine. A chain with a simple menu: chicken, chicken, or chicken. The roasted chicken is what they're famous for, and two chicken salads make the rest of the regular menu, each under CHF14.90.
- pl. du Bourg-de-Four 6, ☎ .
- ch. du Petit-Saconnex 2, ☎ .
- rue Lissignol 5, ☎ .
- Mike Wong. Inauthentic Thai, but not terrible.
- bd James-Fazy 11, ☎ .
- rue du Conseil-Général 20, ☎ .
- Ali Haydar, 26 Rue de Lausanne (On the same road as Gare Cornavin towards Mr. Pickwick pub.). Serves kebabs of lamb, chicken, or both, dolma. Baklava too.
- Cafe Istanbul, Rue du Mont Blanc (Directly across from Gare Cornavin (the train station) on the pedestrian street Rue du Mont Blanc). Turkish kebab house.
- Manora, Rue de Cornavin 6 (Just west of the Gare Cornavin. It's the top floor of the mega-store Manor), ☎ . Cafeteria like serving area with everything and anything including (but not inclusive): chicken, pasta, pizza, desserts, entree of the day, salads, and coffee. Great view of the Geneva skyline from the balcony eating area.
- Wasabi Sushi, 21 rue du Mont Blanc, 32 Boulevard Helvetique. Mo-Sa 10AM-10PM. As the name suggests, Japanese food to eat in the restaurant or to take away.
- Boulangerie Tea-Room Deux-Ponts, 27 rue des Deux-Ponts (near the major bus and tram stop Jonction in the southwestern part of Geneva), ☎ . Portuguese "tea room" serving sandwiches, bifanas (hot sandwiches) and pastries that are fresh, delicious, large and don't cost very much. The catch: they don't have very much on display so you can't just point at stuff but need to explain what you would like to order and how you'd like it - in French or Portuguese!
- La feuille de banane, rue de Carouge 29 (Plainpalais). One of the best ratios of food quality to price in Geneva for Asiatic food. For around CHF10, you can have a tasty meal with chicken, beef or fish, and a various choices of sauces. The service is ultra fast since everything is already cooked, but yet fresh and tasty. CHF10-20.
- Café de Paris, 26 Rue du Mont-Blanc. Vegetarians beware, this Genevois favorite serves one dish only: steak with the butter sauce that bears the name of the restaurant, french fries, and salad. But apparently they do it very well. You can buy the butter in 250g (0.5lbs) for 18 CHF. The menu costs 42 CHF per person..
- Café du Soleil, Place du Petit-Saconnex (in Petit-Saconnex, take bus 3), ☎ . This ancient Petit Saconnex roadhouse claims to be possibly the oldest restaurant in Geneva and to have probably the best fondue in Switzerland. They have a nice large patio in front that is overlooked by a 2nd floor balcony with a few small tables and also inside seating. Surprisingly popular even if it's in a mostly residential part of Geneva, even among international guests. mains 10-35CHF.
- Café Gourmand, 35 Rue des Bains, ☎ . Great friendly atmosphere specializing in East-West fusion dishes. Open weekdays.
- Le Comptoir, Rue de Richemont 9. Easy-Listener-chic Asian/fusion restaurant and bar sporting white leather sofas and the occasional local DJ. Not a cheap choice, but the food is unusually interesting and the crowd friendly.
- L'Europa, Rue du Valais 16. A little hard to find, but worth it for the fresh, hand made pasta dishes and generous portions. A favorite for lunch among the UN crowd.
- Hashimoto, 6 Rue de Villereuse, ☎ , fax: +41227358409. Hashimoto Sushi is a favourite spot for Japanese diplomats and international civil servants in Geneva, which should tell you enough.
- L'Adresse, 32 Rue du 31 décembre (close to Eaux-Vives), ☎ . 11:00-19:00, closed Sundays and Mondays. Self-consciously hip but decent food. Ocasionally snooty service.
- L'Entrecôte Couronnée, 5 Rue des Pâquis (close to rue de Alpes), ☎ . 10:00-14:15 & 19:00-22:45, closed on Sundays. Excellent steak restaurant with fast and efficient staff. The wine card is limited but has good Swiss wines. Just 40 seats so better reserve a table
- La Table du 9, 9 Rue Verdaine (close to rue de Rhône), ☎ . 12:00-14:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed on Saturdays and Sundays, and for dinner on Monday and Tuesday. Relaxed, modern and justifiably busy.
- Edward's The fine art of sandwiches, 1 rue de la Cité (in the northwestern edge of the old town). Packed with locals at lunchtime and for a reason - delicious warm sandwiches and cakes. On the downside it is a bit hectic and it might be difficult to find a seat. sandwich and coffee around 10 CHF.
- Brasserie Bagatelle, Place des 22 cantons (near Gare Cornavin), ☎ . A centrally located restaurant with a varied menu and moderate prices for being in the middle of Geneva. Really good tartar with french fries. main course and glass of wine 30 CHF.
- Le Montparnasse, 58 Avenue Wendt (close to the Servette tram stop, 1km northwest of Gare Cornavin). French and Swiss cuisine and a healthy "antidote" to the extremely touristy restaurants serving Swiss food. Most of the visitors are older locals who drop in for a few glasses of wine and a chat with the owner. Try the menu of the day and a good local wine! mains 20-40CHF, but has lunch specials and the three course "Menu of the day" for 30CHF.
- La Cuccagna, 33 Rue St-Joseph (in Carouge district), ☎ . open also on Sundays. Cosy Italian restaurant in Carouge with a wide variety of well known and lesser known Italian dishes and even occasionally live music. The service is a bit slow but the ambience so you won't probably mind sitting there for a little bit longer. mains 15-30 CHF.
- Brasserie Lipp, 8 Rue de la Confederation, ☎ . Good Brasserie, lots of seafood.
- Le Triporteur, 33 rue de Carouge, ☎ . This little place fills a nice niche at the low end of the high end, where it is likely to impress the heck out of a date without overly denting the bank account. The room is cozy and romantic. The service is attentive, but not at all pushy or snobbish. The Triporteur has the feel of a lot of the better restaurants in say, San Francisco. Expect to spend around 50 Chf per person if you're drinking the house wine.
- Café des Négociants, 29 rue de la Filature (Carouge). Wonderful hip restaurant with wonderful hip food and a wonderful hip wine cellar where you can wander around and choose from all the wonderful hip wine on the racks. You can guess what the desserts are like. Everyone wants a piece of this place, so plan to reserve up to a week or so in advance.
- Edelweiss Manotel, Place de la Navigation 2. This is a must if you want to taste the Swiss culture. You will get the cheese fondue, of course, but also some other local delicacies. But you get there for the show: you can hear and see folklore music and yodeler singers, as well as many other instruments. It is however a very touristic restaurant and you are not likely to see many Swiss people eating there.
- Perle du Lac, 126 rue de Lausanne, ☎ +41(0)22 909 10 20, fax: +41(0)22 909 10 30. The only restaurant located adjacent to the Lake Geneva footpath. Food and service are excellent. The view of the Lake is excellent and the ambiance is outstanding. 65 CHF (lunch), 88+ CHF for set menu.
- La Veranda, 20 rue des Alpes. A pleasant restaurant with Italian flair in the Hotel International-Terminus.
- Les Brasseurs, 20 Place de Cornavin (directly across from the train station), ☎ (+41) 22 731 02 06. Tuesday to Saturday until 2:00AM, Sunday and Monday until midnight. One of the few brew pubs in Geneva, Les Brass serves three flavours of home brew in the usual half pints, pints, and litre glasses or you can go for one of the giant plastic tubes filled with three to five litres. A small menu of pub food and a full restaurant in the back makes it a good spot to waste an evening. Beer: 3.40-7.40CHF.
- Café de la Gare, 2 Rue de Montbrillant (directly outside of the TGV arrival area of the Gare Cornavin). Open until 23:00 daily. Of the two restaurants attached to the Hotel Montbrillant this is the pick. The beautifully decorated but unpretentious Café de la Gare captures the laid-back feel of some of the best sidewalk cafés in Paris. It's a great place for dinner as well, with excellent Swiss, French, and Italian offerings. Beer and wine: 3-4CHF.
- Pickwicks, 80 Rue de Lausanne (Take the number 13 Tram from Cornavin toward Nations), ☎ (+41) 22/731 6797, e-mail: email@example.com. W-Sa until 2AM, Su-Tu until 12AM.. One of the half-dozen or so British pubs. Usually full of football watching ex-pats eating fish and chips while sipping Guinness. Saturday night has low-key dancing to sometimes cheesy disco and pop music. A laid-back, friendly spot. One of the best in Geneva for burgers and a dozen of draft beers!!
- Alhambar, 10, rue de la Rôtisserie (Enter in back off of Parc Pélisserie), ☎ (+41) 22 312 1313, e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. M 12PM-2PM, Tu-F 12PM-2PM and 6PM-2AM, Sa 5PM-2AM, Su 11AM-12AM.. A swanky cocktail bar above the Alhambra Theater. Pretty people in a pretty room, usually with a DJ. A small tapas menu early in the evening and a nice brunch on weekends until 2PM.
- La Clémence, Place Bourg-de-Four. 11AM-12AM, every day. This cozy little bar on the central square of Geneva's old town more than quintuples in size from April until October when it is able to use a huge swath of the place as its terrace. During warm weather it's packed, but is such a lovely and central stopping point that it's worth the wait for a table - check out the gallery on their website. In the winter they have the best vin chaud in town.
- Café Demi-Lune, 3, rue Etienne-Dumont. M-W 8:45AM-APM, Th-F 8:45AM-2AM, Sa-Su 4PM-2AM.. Located in a small street connecting to Place du Bourg-de-Four (Old town), this little café has a very charming attitude and atmosphere. A good place for after dinner drinks with good friends.
- Saveurs & Couleurs Café, 24 rue des Grottes, ☎ , fax: +41 22 734 63 53. The Grottes neigborhood of Geneva has long been a center for creative types, many of whom can be found of an evening enjoying a glass of wine at this comfy little bistro.
- Boréal Coffee Shop, 60 rue du Stand, ☎ . This cosy Coffee Shop is in the bank district. Espressos, Cappuccinos, Lattes, Renversés, Macchiatos, Mochacinos, ice coffees and teas can be consumed there or take-away. The coffee is great, there is a free WIFI connection. This is the kind of places where you feel like staying hours, lovely !
- Les Enfants Terribles, rue Prévost-Martin 24, ☎ . A café bar bicycle-workshop hair salon and wine shop, with a nice lunch tapas buffet and Thursday night jazz in a beautiful post-industrial space with atrium roofs and an olive tree. What is there not to like?
- Grand Duke Pub, Rue de Monthoux,8 (near the lake, behind Hotel Kempinski), ☎ 022 732 7473. 11am - 2am. One of the oldest English pubs in Geneva. Live sports, wide selection of draught and bottled beers, ciders. More than 5 big television screens are there to watch different sports as well as a good area to play darts. You can enjoy watching major sports such as NFL, NBA, Masters Tennis, Football league, Boxing, MLB, NHL, EPL, International Rugby union etc. . . . Also serves lunch specials, burgers, steaks, salads and chips.
- Mulligans Irish Pub, Rue de-Grenus, ☎ 022 732 85 76. 5pm til 2am. You will be guaranteed a great time at this centrally located pub. Good Music most nights. Bands often play on Thurs-Fri Evenings. A good lively crowd who know how to party...Guinness, Bulmers, Staropramen, Boddingtons, Spirits, shots etc etc
- Da Vinci Lounge Bar, 7 Rue de Grenus (Approx 200m up from Mulligans), ☎ 22 732 2755. Mon-Sat 5pm-2am. This Pub/Wine Bar offers a wide choice of wines, guinness, beers, spirits and shots in a more tranquil environment. Tapas etc available on request. Mid-week and weekend parties often offer an alternative to Mulligans or you can simply stroll between the two.
Plain de Plainpalais
Around a dozen of the best bars in town are located around this diamond shaped parade and circus ground in the area southwest of the old town. This shouldn't be surprising since the many buildings of the Université de Genève are ranged around it as well.
- Remor, Place de Cirque 1, ☎ . Really the best Parisien style grande café in Geneva. Artwork by University Students and sometimes the Proprietor hang on the wall. They also offer two salads of the day, and a range of ice-cream treats. On recent evenings they've been screening the best of Swiss film, for free. 3.50/5.00CHF draft/bottle beers. Free Wi-fi available.
- Moloko Bar, Place des Volontaires (Upstairs from the main entrance of l'Usine). Mon - Fri 6PM-1AM, Sun 6PM-12AM. There are punks in Geneva! Well, a few anyway, and they all hang out at the bar upstairs at the l'Usine. When you're sick of rubbing elbows with bankers, politicians, and their lackeys, head over to the smoky interior of L'Usine for a cheap beer and interesting people-watching. L'Usine also has two large dance/concert halls: One downstairs with an entrance by the river (hard to miss with typically massive lines every weekend) and one upstairs. Prices typically run for CHF15, but entry from upstairs is free (or the bouncers don't care) once Moloko starts kicking people out and closing down after 1AM. The two halls are booked by three separate organizations: KAB which books punk rock and rasta, PTR which handles slightly bigger name acts, and ZOO which books the best dance hall and electronica music available in Geneva. Free entry.
- Le Ferblanterie, 8, rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine. The Ferblanterie, or Tinsmith would be one of the coolest bars in just about any town, and it happens to be on a street loaded with cool bars. This is very much a student haunt, and a grungy one in all the right ways. Some of the cds in the rack above the cd player are by Paulo Conté, Tom Waits, Fugazi, the Art Ensemble of Chicago, and Charles Mingus, if that tells you anything. 3/6CHF draft/bottle beers. A glass of wine is about the same..
- L'Etabli, 5, rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine. L'Etabli is a great place to go when the Ferblanterie is packed, or perhaps it's the other way around. This super-friendly little café/bar/wine bar is a great place to meet grad students to help with your French, or to help with their English, or just to argue politics or whatever. 3/6CHF draft/bottle beers. A glass of wine is about the same..
- Bypass, Carrefour de l’Etoile 1, Carouge, ☎ (+41) 22 300 6565. One of the most modern clubs in Geneva, the Bypass is, for lack of a better word, bling-bling. The dance floor swarms with young professionals and, on occasion, corporate parties and the rooms pound with clean house music, hip-hop and r'n'b. Unfortunately, this club is not near the city center, but still just a short taxi ride from it.
- Java Club, 19, Quai du Mont - Blanc. Inside the Grand Hotel Kempinski
- Shakers, rue Winkelried 4, ☎ (+41) 22 310 5598. This club is known for the wild nights within, thanks to its very strong cocktails served in shaker glasses. The dance floor is imposing, but once on it, well known for romantic encounters. Very popular with English speakers.
- La SIP (Soul Influenced Product), 10, rue des Vieux-Grenadiers. Open until 5AM. The SIP is one of the largest and most happening places in Geneva. The music tends toward the mainstream, which does serve to attract a large mixed crowd of locals and expats. The bar is on the first floor and disco on the second floor. Admittance is strictly subject to the mood of the bouncer due to having been designed with locals in mind..
- Weetamix, 37 Chemin Jacques Philbert. Although it's not the easiest place to get to, Weetamix is able to attract good, mostly local crowds by consistently booking some of the best cutting-edge talent in electronic music from France, Britain, and the U.S..
- The Zoo at l'Usine. See Moloko Bar under Drink or their homepage.
There are a lot of hotels in Geneva, but very few of them are actually in anything like the budget range. Hundreds, many right around the central Cornavin train station offer a pretty standard rate of 135CHF per night for a single. If you arrive late and are willing to spend that it makes sense to look at the automated hotel board in the train station to find the nearest vacancy.
It's hardest to find lodging during large international conferences, and trade shows. The latter, of which the prime example is the Salon d'Auto are usually held at Palexpo. It's worthwhile to do a bit of research to see if your arrival is likely to coincide with one of these events.
- Youth Hostel Geneva, Rue Rothschild 30 (Tram 13 to Môle), ☎ . A clean well maintained place. Well placed for access to the bars and restaurants of the Paquis, and only a 15-minute walk from the central station. Floors, lockers, and doors, unfortunately, are all fairly loud, and if staying in a shared room, you must bring ear plugs. 25CHF and up.
- City Hostel Geneva, Rue Ferrier 2 (from the main train station it's a five minute northbound walk up Rue de Lausanne), ☎ , fax: +41 22 901 15 60. A clean and hassle-free, if somewhat soul-less, hostel located near the budget food haven of Paquis and the central train station. Laundry, internet, lockers and communal kitchens are available for two to four person dormitories (28CHF and up) as well as single (63CHF and up) and double rooms (70CHF and up).
- Cité Universitaire, Avenue de Miremont 46 (bus number 3 to Champel), ☎ , fax: +41 22 839 22 23. A huge dorm space with 500 beds, which means that if all else fails you can probably sleep here and it's cheap. It is a bit far out of the old town though, about 2km south on the bluff of Champel, which overlooks the Arve river across from Carouge. Do remember that, because it is not a hotel, the reception closes at 10PM. If you do stay there check out the tower of Champel in the morning. 50CHF.
- Hotel Formule 1, Route de Meyrin, 01210 Ferney Voltaire, France, ☎ . Right behind the airport on the French side. Inexpensive but still a good standard since it belongs to the Accor hotel chain. 31€.
- Hotel de Geneve, Famille Ray Place Isaac Mercier, ☎ . Check-in: 30/3/09, check-out: 02/04/09. 5 minute walk from Cornavin Station.4 bus stops away from St. Pierre Cathedral. 84-133€.
There are hundreds of quality mid-range hotels in Geneva. Here are a couple of representative examples.
- Citadines Genève Ferney Voltaire, 34, rue de Genève, ☎ , fax: +04 50 40 91 24, e-mail: email@example.com. The residence is in a quiet and wooded area yet only a stone's throw away from the cultural and cosmopolitan pulse of Geneva. They offers 127 apartments, ranging from studios to one-bedrooms, each has a bathroom with a separate toilet, a separate kitchen area. Daily rates starts from €140.
- Hotel Residence St.James, Rue du Versonnex 3. The St-James Residence is in an elegant district in the centre of town on a street parallel with the River Rhone.
- Hotel Savoy, Place Cornavin 8 (Across from the Cornavin train station), ☎ , fax: +41 22 906 47 90. A nice clean recently remodeled place with prices as close to reasonable as one can find in Geneva. 135-195CHF/165-230CHF Singles/Doubles..
- Hotel Lido, Rue de Chantepoulet 8, ☎ . Close to the train station and outside the red-light district. 160CHF in high season..
- Le Montbrillant, 2 rue de Montbrillant (at the north entrance of the main train station), ☎ , fax: +41 22 733 25 11. This lovely hotel is slightly pricier than the average mid-range, but the location can't be beat. If you can, get a room on the top floor under the sloping roof. There are two restaurants downstairs: the Café de la Gare which has a separate entrance, and a quality pizza joint which adjoins the lobby. Both are to be recommended on their own.
- Hôtel Bel'Espérance, Rue de la vallée 1 (next to the College du Calvin, just off of Place Bourg de Four), ☎ , fax: +41 22 818 37 73. Run by the Salvation Army, the Bel'Espérance is less hotel like than many hotels; they have a little kitchen with small individual refrigerators if you want to cook, and considering how close the hotel is to the Wednesday morning farmer's market on blvd Helvetique there's a pretty good chance you will want to. You can take your meals on the rooftop terrace or in the big, comfy lounge area. 90/160CHF singles/doubles.
- Residence Studio, Rue de Berne 35 (next to Hotel Novotel,infact its part of Novotel hotel), ☎ , fax: +41 22 909 90 01. Run by Novotel and the cheapest available in Geneva center. The sad part is location of studio which is in red light area. Small room in 125 CHF per night excluding tax. The best part is kitchen, with has two hot plates, fridge, and ample crockery. Kitchen cost is 100 CHF per stay, which means if you stay for two days or two weeks its only 100CHF.
- Hotel Strasbourg, Rue Pradier 10 (three minutes by foot from the main train station), ☎ , fax: +41 22 906 58 14. Run by Best Western, the hotel is very close to the train station as well as tram and bus lines. The desk staff is very knowledgeable and helpful.
- Hôtel-Résidence du Grand-Saconnex, 175 route de Ferney, Grand-Saconnex (very close to bus stop). Cheapest available in Geneva near airport. variety of rooms available, studio or standard rooms.
- Bernina, 22, Place Cornavin, fax: +41 (0)22 908 49 51, e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Member of Swiss Quality Hotels International. Three star hotel located right next to the railway station in the heart of Geneva. The airport is 6km away. Single room from 179CHF, double room from 245CHF (as of April 2009)..
- Drake & Longchamp, 32 rue Rothschild, fax: +41 (0)22 738 00 07, e-mail: email@example.com. Single room from 180CHF, double room from 234CHF (low season of April 2009).. Member of Swiss Quality Hotels International. Three star hotel situated 1km away from the railway station, 500m from the city center and only 5km from the airport.
- Grand-Pré, 35, rue du Grand-Pré, fax: +41 (0)22 734 76 91, e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Member of Swiss Quality Hotels International. Four star hotel situated 1km away from the railway station and 500m from the city center. Single room from 231CHF, double room from 292CHF (low season of April 2009)..
- Mon-Repos, 131, rue de Lausanne, fax: +41 (0)22 909 39 93, e-mail: email@example.com. Member of Swiss Quality Hotels International. Three star superior hotel situated 1km away from the railway station and 1.5km from the city center. Single room from 207CHF, double room from 258CHF (low season of 2009)..
- Sagitta, 6, rue de la Flèche, fax: +41 (0)22 849 81 10, e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Member of Swiss Quality Hotels International. Three star hotel situated 1km away from the railway station and 200m from the city center. Single room from 163CHF, double room from 213CHF (low season of April 2009).
- Hotel Ibis Genève Centre Gare, 10 rue Voltaire (three blocks south from the Cornavin station and pass under the railway bridge), ☎ , fax: +41 22 3382030. Check-out: noon. A typical clean chain hotel, with basic facilities in the rooms. The hotel is centrally located, yet on a quite calm street so it's a great base for weekend sightseeing travelers. doubles from 156 CHF, excluding breakfast.
It's almost as hard to pick from the huge selection of luxury hotels in Geneva as it is with the mid-range.. that said there are a couple that stand out for their historical importance or excellent locations.
- Des Bergues, Quai des Bergues 33 (On the river near the old pedestrian Bridge), ☎ , fax: +41 22 908 70 90. The oldest of Geneva's super-luxury hotels, this palace like space faces the old town from a superb right-bank position just above the pedestrian Pont des Bergues. A favorite among European royalty. 450CHF+ (They do run specials. The price can drop as low as 330CHF in slow periods, such as over Christmas)..
- Les Armures, 1 Rue du Puits St-Pierre (In the center of the old town, up the curved steps from Rue de Rotiserie), ☎ , fax: +41 22 310 98 46. Lovely 17th Century building in the old town has hosted recent democratic presidents of the U.S. 360CHF+ (Specials sometimes as low as 290CHF for a single.)..
- Beau Rivage, 13, Quai du Mont-Blanc (On the northern shore of the lake), ☎ +41 (0)22 716 66 66, fax: +41 (0)22 716 60 60. The interieur of this five star hotel is breath-taking, old European style, beautiful, service is above any doubts, simply high-class. Usually you meet a lot of rich Arabian families there. It is recommended that you reserve your stay months in advance. 600CHF+.
- Swissotel Metropole, 34 Quai Général Guisan (On the southern shore of the lake), ☎ +41 (0)22 318 33 50, fax: +41 (0)22 318 33 00. Five star hotel with nice old ambiance. Very kind service, in front of it is a park, may be a nice view, but to see much of the lake or the jet d'eau you should take a room on 3rd level or higher (one of the suites). 430CHF+.
- Grand Hotel Kempinski, 19, Quai du Mont-Blanc, ☎ . Formerly known as the Noga-Hilton, this very modern and luxurious hotel is a typical choice for corporate clients. Features a mini-mall, health club and conference rooms. Prices start at 580CHF..
- Hotel Carmen, Rue Dancet 5 (by Plainpalaus), ☎ . Reportedly excellent in terms of quality, comfort, cleanliness. No pool.
- Le Richemond, Jardin Brunswick (On the northern shore of the lake), ☎ +41 (0)22 715 70 00. Five star hotel with spa. Almeder suite rate as one of the top ten most expensive suites in the world. Art deco style.
Geneva is by and large a very safe place. Violent crime is almost unheard of, although it's important to keep an eye on your belongings in public, as petty theft is a fairly common occurrence. Do report any such activity to the police, you will probably find them much more interested and helpful than police in many other western cities, especially if you speak a little French.
Unfortunately there is a huge amount of vandalism in the city. On every street you can see bicycles with stolen seats, wheels, everything not locked. Many bicycles are vandalised and destroyed.
If you see people gambling on the streets (usually along the main city centre bridges) stay away! The modus operandi usually involves a guy playing the classic game of "hiding the ball". This involves covering the ball (or small trinket) with either a bottle cap or a match box and swirling it around with two other bottle caps asking people to guess the position of the ball. The game is set in a way that you can easily see the ball's position. This is done to lure the unsuspecting person into placing a wager. There are usually two main players and, between them, they will lose and win money back and forth to give the appearance that it is a fair game - do not be tricked! They are from the same gang. Once you get greedy and get lured in, you will surely lose your money! The person in control of the bottle caps will remove the ball from their position through sleight of hand and you will never see your money back. Besides the two or three other players involved, there are usually at least two lookouts - one on each side of 'stage'. Similar variations of this scam has been reported in places like Budapest as well.
Local cellphone service is mainly provided by Swisscom, Orange, and Sunrise. Yallo, Migros and Coop have their own mobile offers. Don't be surprised if you find your phone using a cell in neighboring France however. If you buy one in Switzerland you will have to either just accept the occasional roaming fee, or be prepared to set the phone manually.
If you are staying for a while you should consider getting a SIM card/and or a phone since it's much cheaper and easier than dealing with payphones. The best deal is with Sunrise SIM cards. These days you do have to register your name and an address to get a SIM card, as Swiss anonymous phone cards have been found on apprehended terror suspects who have never even been to Switzerland!
Payphones are still fairly common here, but very few of them accept coins, so be prepared to buy a prepaid card or to use a credit card (no surcharge).
Swisscom has borrowed one neat idea from the French which you might find very useful: the Minitel. Every phonebooth is equipped with one of these electronic directory devices. You just need to know the name (in French) of the type of business you are looking for to get a list, with the closest examples highlighted. A fee is charged for using this system.
Internet cafés have just begun to really take off in Geneva, and there are now several that stay open fairly late.
- Internet Café Cornavin (inside the Cornavin train station near the west entrance). Until 10PM every day. This convenient and friendly place offers printing, and laptop stations. If you do plan to use your laptop you need to be able to demonstrate that you have anti-virus software CHF6 per hour. (specials for regulars and students)..
- Point6, 12 rue Jean Violette, ☎ . Primarily a gamer internet cafe, but becoming quite popular with casual internet users. Scanning/photocopying/printing, diskettes/CD burning, faxing services available. Manned by a young staff who as a result of being surrounded by snack machines and video games are very friendly. Free for first five minutes, then 5CHF per hour..
The city of Geneva provides a very good coverage of Free WiFi network. Just look for the "ville-de-geneve" network.
- Central Perk, 6 Avenue Du Mail. This living shrine to a certain television show is just off of Plain de Plainpalais. They offer food and drinks and FREE! wireless access (802.11b) (be nice and buy a coffee or beer) Burger: 10CHF, Beer: 5CHF, Coffee and Croissant in the morning: 6CHF..
- Cafe de la Gare. Café de la Gare (see Drink) is a Swisscom hotspot. To use the service you need to either be a Swisscom Mobile customer (see Phone) or buy access cards sold at any Swisscom office, and at the Montbrillant reception desk. The cards have timed values ranging from a half-hour to 1 month of continuous use.
- Parc des Bastions and its library (To get there by bus take Bus 3, 5, 36, Tram 12, 17 (stop at Place Neuve); Bus 1, 32, Tram 12, 13, 15, 17 (stop at Plainpalais).). M-F 9AM-10PM; Sa 9AM-5PM. In the Parc des Bastions there is free wi-fi internet access available. Just log on to the ville-de-geneve or Bastions network. The public library of the city is located inside the same park, and the same network listed above is available inside. Search for the reading room (Salle de lecture), on the 1st floor. There is even electricity to plug your notebook.
- La Sphere, 80-82 rue de Lausanne. This cosy pool/billiard place has free wifi, as well as pool tables, darts and delicious pizza.
For more hotspots, this site might help: Freespots
Please note that contrary to popular belief, the Swiss are beyond punctual when it comes to closing hours. So if a museum is supposed to close at 17:00, expect that at 16:47 you will be asked to leave and if you point out that closing hours are still 13 minutes away you might get expelled. If you arrive after 16:31, you'll more than likely be denied entrance. The same applies to shops and pretty much every public activity with a schedule. In the same vein, especially relevant to jet lagged travelers, it is important to note that lunch hour at most restaurants ends at 14:00 (and last orders at 13:45 for the more strict ones) with dinner service starting again at 18:00.
Swiss destinations are almost all served by the CFF from the central train station (Gare Cornavin) while ski resorts in the French alps and the Jura can be reached by bus from the central bus station off of Rue de Mont Blanc or from SNCF's Gare des Eaux Vives. The price of the bus ticket often covers ski lift tickets as well, be sure to ask.
Here are just a few places which make a good day trip from Geneva:
Geneva is almost completely surrounded by France, and the nearest major town is Annemasse, southeast of Geneva. If you don't have a whole day to spend but still want to see something else than just Geneva, Annemasse is a good alternative. Smaller towns in France that can be visited as a half-day trip are Saint-Julien en Genevois south of Geneva and Ferney-Voltaire (with the small castle once owned by the philosopher Voltaire) just north of the airport.
Hitchhiking is relatively safe and more common in Switzerland than France, for example, but almost as difficult if you're not a woman. The A1 motorway surrounds the city, with connections to the rest of Switzerland and neighbouring France.
To hitchhike to the direction of Lausanne (North) take bus number 29 towards Gare Zimeysa and step out at stop Blandonnet. Walk back 200m Route de Meyrin towards the center, across the bridge over the highway and you´ll find an on-ramp to highway towards Lausanne. (Another, even better possibility is to take tram 14 or 16 in direction of Meyrin and step out at the Avanchet. Then walk forward 200 m.) Walk down 100m along the on-ramp and hitchhike before the speed gets high. The position is very good, speed of the cars low, visibility good and there´s plenty of space for cars to stop. You should accept a ride at least to Nyon, where you can continue hitchhiking on the on-ramp. (Hitchhiking on the on-ramp is illegal. Your best bet is usually to try and get a ride at one of the gas station/restaurants on the autoroute itself.)
To hitchhike to the direction of Chamonix and Turin (South-East) take bus 27 towards Thônex-Vallard-Douane and go to the end of the line. Walk through customs to France and stand at the end of the customs just before the cars speed up for the highway. Be sure to have your passport with you when crossing the border. The position is very good, the customs officers are nice, speed is low, there´s space for cars to stop, all the traffic is passing through.
To hitchhike to the direction of Lyon and Paris (South-West, West, North-West) take the bus 29 to stop Blandonnet. Walk about 600m to the next on-ramp in direction of South, the one leading to the highway in the direction of South from Route de Vernier. The position is not very good because the cars speed up and visibility is not really good but there´s place for cars to stop. Take a ride at least 10km South to the Swiss-French border, where there´s a decent spot to continue. Walk through the customs and hitchhike - preferably with a sign - before the cars speed up. There´s not much space for cars to stop but they can, speed is low and all the traffic is passing through the customs.