Ko Kut

Ko Kut (also Koh Kood) is an island in Trat Province in the Gulf of Thailand and the easternmost island before Cambodia. The island is a popular spot for package tourists and families. The island has virtually no night life, so if you are after partying this is definitely not the place to go.

Get in

To/From Trat

There is an Express boat with free transfer from outside Trat Market near the big thermometre/clock. Cost including transfer to the pier at Laem Sok and from the arrival pier at Ko Kut to most resorts is 350 baht. About 2 hours. Leaves market in Trat at 11:30 sharp! Two speed boats depart daily during the high season from Laem Sok on the mainland near Trat. Stops are made on demand at most west coast piers on Ko Kut, finally terminating at Ko Kut's Bang Bao Bay. The first boat departs from Laem Sok at 09:00, costs 600 baht one-way, and takes 60-90 minutes to Ko Kut. The second boat departs at 13:00, costs 600 baht one-way, and also takes 60-90 minutes to Ko Kut. During the low season other operators run a daily service from the Dan Kao Pier near Trat. Two boats depart from Ko Kut daily at 10:30 and 12:00, returning to the mainland [1].

WARNING: Note that the boat fee (350 baht slow boat, 600 baht speedboat) includes the transport to/from Trat. Some hotels will try to rip you off by requesting hundreds of baht for the transport to the pier. Do not agree to this, and if you find the deal changes when you arrive at the pier and the boat operators (who run the taxis as well) try to force you to pay this fee, and taxi drivers/boat operators are connected in a sort of mafia-style operation. Feel free to politely mention that you may need to phone the tourist police and wait for a resolution if this happens to you. In my case I offered a face-saving compromise with extra baht, which was promptly returned to me with a 'thank you' in Thai when I boarded the boat. To be fair to the boat operators this hardly ever happens.

If you take the slow boat and book ahead, some resorts will pick you up from the pier. If you take the speed boat, you will usually be dropped at or very close to your destination so this is not required.

To/From Ko Chang

There are two ways to get to Ko Kut from Ko Chang's Bang Bao harbour. Either the slower Inter Island Hopper, which takes 3-4 hours, or by speedboat [2]. The price by speedboat is 900 baht (as of Nov 2009) one way, which includes a pick up or drop off at most hotels on Ko Chang. The trip takes about 1-2 hours, depending on conditions and the number of stops at the islands between Ko Chang and Ko Kut (Ko Mak, Ko Wai, etc.) and the number of stop around Ko Kut.

Another company offering both fast and slow boat service from Ko Chang to Ko Kut is Bang Bao Boat [3]. They leave the Bang Bao pier in Ko Chang twice a day (9:30 and 12:00) and make the same stops along the way to Ko Kut as the other company (unless no one on the boat is going to the other islands, in that case they will cater the trip to the needs of who is on board). If you go for the slow boat option it costs 700 baht, and you have a 2 hour "layover" on Ko Mak which could be a nice break for lunch (Ko Mak is small, only a 27 km coast line- you could almost see the whole island during your layover!). Then the speed boat picks you up in Ko Mak and you continue the rest of the way to Ko Kut that way. If you want to get to Ko Kut quicker, you can take the speed boat the whole way from Ko Chang. The listed price for the speed boat trip is 900 baht, but if you book through a tour agency on the pier in Bang Bao you could get it down to 850 baht.

Get around

Getting around can be a bit of a hassle since taxis are not available. The best way to get around is by motorbike (expect to pay around 300-350 baht per day) which can be rented at almost all resorts. Road conditions vary between dirt roads and patched roads. Maps are available though a bit confusing. Bicycles can also be hired (150 baht per day), but the heat and the hilly nature of the roads makes them of limited usefulness for all but die-hard cyclists.

See

• The west coast has some breath-taking beaches. Most resorts are along this coast, and more are being built very quickly, however there are still a lot of relatively clean and pristine areas. The water is warm, and many beaches are essentially empty.

• Ao Salat is a fishing village in the north of the island. It can be reached by motorbike.

• Ao Yai is a very typical fisher village (a real one!) at the extreme south of the island. Crowds of nice people will be happy to receive you there, even if they can only speak Khmer or Vietnamese.

• Khao Rearub is a very old cave and a religious place for the Thais.

• Nam Tok Khlong Chao - a large waterfall, with a huge pool that you can swim in. About 20-30 minutes' walk from the turn-off, sometimes you can hitch.

• River estuary - near the turn-off to the waterfall is a mangrove-lined estuary. Many places (hotels, restaurants, guesthouses) rent kayaks cheaply here. The top of the estuary is a rocky area, if you want to be alone in nature you can pass it by carrying the kayak then swim in a natural pool surrounded by forest. Very few people can be bothered to go here, so it is very clean. There is also a tributary flowing from a mangrove forest part-way up, on the western side. This is quite spooky and has more pollution as the top is a road and there are some houses at points the way, but you can still appreciate the natural environment, which is pretty spectacular at points and maybe see some rare bird life. You can also kayak out on to the ocean, which is often very still and without waves, and being shallow a long way out the water is warm.

Do

Swimming in the crystal clear waters, sunbathing, scuba-diving, snorkelling, kayaking, hiking to the waterfall, checking out the view of Klong Chao Beach from the viewpoint which can be accessed by motorbike or by foot along a path that originates at the southern end of the beach and winds through some trees and has a short climb along a paved path to the viewpoint. Good coffee can be enjoyed here. Or just relax and read a book.

There are virtually no towns on Ko Kut so sightseeing is pretty limited. The fishing village of Ao Salat (on the North East of the island) is home to around 300 people, making it the largest settlement on the island. The village is built on stilts in the water, and is quite interesting and well worth the the rather long road trip to get there. Expect to pay around 500 baht for the trip as cars are quite scarce. Or rent a scooter to get around.

Scuba diving is a great way to discover the underwater world around Ko Kut. Diving off Ko Kut is easy, fun, and you can see turtles, stingrays, barracudas, lots of small fish and sometimes sea horses.

Nearly any time of the year except from July till the end of September is good diving weather in Ko Kut and visibility can exceed 30 m. Average visibility is around 15-20 m. From July till September visibility is reduced to 5 m and the seas are choppy.

It is possible and perfectly comfortable to swim and dive without a wetsuit year round. However, as with most diving, a wetsuit is recommended to help reduce risk of cuts or injury. Avoid contact with coral reefs.

Various dive locations around Ko Kut are:

• Ao Tum
• Bang Bao
• Clong Hin
• Hin Jedi
• Hin Loi
• Ko Reat
• Ko Rang National Marine Park

These are the three dive shops on the island:

• BB Divers (The main office is in Khlong Chao at Away Resort and within walking distance from Away Resort speedboat pier and Mark House Speedboat pier. The shop at Siam Beach Resort in Bang Bao is their latest addition.), ☎ +66 82 2206002, e-mail: kohkood@bbdivers.com. This dive school is a branch of 5 Star PADI IDC Center BB Divers on Ko Chang where it has been active since 2003. This Belgian-run shop has very nice staff and can provide all PADI courses from Open Water up to Divemaster and even beyond. Courses can be done in many European languages as well as in Thai. They also cater to the snorkelling crowd. With the privately-owned speedboat all local dive sites as well as Ko Rang National Park, Ko Mak and even Ko Chang are within easy reach. They also offer the new wreck dive on the HMS Chang at Ko Chang, the coolest wreck dive in Thailand!

• Koh Kood Divers (on the left side of Bang Bao Bay in southwest Ko Kut), ☎ +66 85 6984122, e-mail: info@kohkooddivers.com. Small family-run dive shop with new equipment, flexible boat schedules, and friendly multilingual staff including German, Dutch, French, Spanish, and English. They teach all PADI diving courses from beginner to professional level in small groups in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Also they offer snorkelling trips as well.

• Paradise Divers (opposite S-Beach resort, easily accessible from both Bang Bao and Khlong Chao), ☎ +66 87 1445945, e-mail: info@kohkood-happydays.com. Friendly staff. Courses can be done in German, Dutch, French, Spanish, English, and more.

Buy

There is a souvenir shop in Ao Salat. Other than that, you'll be hard pressed to find anything in particular to buy outside your resort.

Eat

Many of the resorts, but not all, have good restaurants. Outsiders are always welcomed. Now also a few restaurants are popping up including the rustic locally-run Chiang Mai Restaurant and a Thai/Italian-run Italian Pizza and Pasta House. Prices are slightly above mainland. The cheapest feed is 60 baht for a bowl of noodles. Expect to pay 80-200 baht for a main course at non-high-end places (usually 100-150 baht).

If you want to cook for yourself then a small selection of fruit/vegetables is available at a stand/shop operating some distance across the bridge from Ban Klong Chao, before the Sunset Bar. Basic staples and ice creams are available at a number of shops around the Khlong Chao area.

Drink

• Sunset Bar (across the bridge (1 km) down the road from Klong Chao, just before you reach Away Resort). Friendly and very inspiring French/Caledonian run bar. Serves great cocktails, good food (Thai surprise dinner), and an excellent choice of music from everywhere. Admire the sunset there around or just go later to enjoy the drinks in a cool atmosphere. Parties going on every Saturday and on special occasions.

• View Point Cafe (up the hill south of Klong Chao Beach). Small cosy drink hut with great views on one side down onto the beach below and on the other side sunsets are there to be enjoyed as well. Real fresh ground Vietnamese-style coffee, fruit shakes, and interesting non-alcoholic cocktails. The Australian/Thai proprietors are also a great source of local and SE Asia information. May close for low season in mid-May.

Sleep

• Away Resort Koh Kood, 43/8 Moo 2, Baan Klongchao, ☎ +66 81 8354517, +66 84 4665554. The resort recently added a man-made beach located behind a rock seawall which makes access to the water difficult. Their advertisement in Bangkok Airways in flight magazine showing a gently sloping beach has been heavily Photoshopped. The resort features spacious luxury bungalow villas, with private terraces and sea views from almost every room. The resort has the largest activity and dive centre on the island, so guests can enjoy not only the beauty and peacefulness of the resort, but also everything the island has to offer.

• Beach Natural Resort, ☎ +66 86 9999420. Neither a naturist resort nor particularly natural, but the deluxe bungalow () is really nice, and the chairs at the end of their long pier is a perfect place to watch the sunset. 3,200 baht.

• Cozy House, Ban Khlong Chao (About 200 m down the road to the waterfall), ☎ +66 85 1014838. Aimed at backpackers. Shared shower/toilet facilities. Washing machine 50 baht/use. Easy walking distance to a white sandy beach, as well as the waterfall. Backs on to the river estuary for kayaking. Sand volleyball court. Weekend BBQs (every other day in high season) with fresh seafood (typical are three kinds of fish, squid, giant prawns, chicken, potatoes, and salad for vegetarians). Relaxing atmosphere and a congenial local proprietor. Free but slow Internet for residents. Free coffee/tea before midday. Kayaks (150 baht/day), bicycles (150 baht/day) and motorbikes (250 baht/day) offered for hire. Visa and Mastercard are accepted. High season from 250 baht, low season (begins June) is cheaper.

• Dusita Resort, ☎ +66 81 8257076. Cosy air-conditioned bungalows. Really good food and a beach you will never want to leave. 1,200 baht.

• For Rest Boutique House, Ban Ao Prao, Ao Prao Beach, ☎ +66 87 0265515. Guesthouse built on stilts in an beautiful estuary, next to mangroves, tiny fisher village, and an endless empty beach. 1,200+ baht.

• Hindard Resort, Bangbao Area. (All speed boats will drop you of at their pier or tell the truck bus driver Hindard and he will understand), ☎ +66 81 7818308. A lovely small family-run resort right on the water. Sit on the veranda of your bungalow and enjoy the ocean views. Or enjoy a lovely meal in the restaurant with fantastic views that would make Pacific Islands views seem ordinary. Snorkeling on your doorstep. Or rent a kayak or motorbike and go exploring. A great place to relax. A good reasonably priced option for your Ko Kut stay. 1,200 baht up.

• Koh Kood-Ngamkho Resort , ☎ +66 81 8257076. One of the cheapest resorts on Ko Kut, if not the cheapest! Laid-back resort on the west coast run by a guy called Uncle Joe and his family. Has basic bungalows only 20 m from the beach for 500 baht during low season and 650 baht during peak season (sometimes includes breakfast in the rate). Also offers tents for 200 baht. The resort is on a beautiful strip of a white sand beach lined with coconut trees. Motorbikes and kayaks are available for rent on a daily/half-day basis. 15 minute walk or boat ride to one of Ko Kut's main attractions, waterfall Klong Jao.

• Koh Kood Resort , ☎ +66 87 0265515. Wonderful Japanese-style bungalows in a magnificent garden for only 1,800 baht per night. Quiet beach, free use of kayaks, free Wi-Fi/Internet access for guests.

• Koh Kood Seaview Bungalow, Ban Khlong Chao, ☎ +66 87 9083593. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Close to Khlong Chao Beach (600 m) and waterfall(3 km). Family-run restaurant and motorbike rentals. 400-1,000 baht.

• Neverland Resort, Ban Ao Jak (or very close) (down the dirt road to the village, then you can't miss it!), ☎ +66 81 4565486, +66 81 7626254. Family-oriented resort, mostly Thai. Features sweeping coconut groves with well manicured lawns with a boules and soccer setup, backing on to what is essentially a private beach. A series of hammocks and sun chairs liberally inhabit the threshold of the shoreline, as does a beach-side bar (high season only). The downside is that it's miles from anywhere, so your "stuff to do" list is going to run short without access to transport. Motivated individuals could conceivably walk to the main road (~20 min down the dirt road) and hitch, so one could conceivably make day trips this way to the Khlong Chao waterfall and other locations. Paid access to taxis advertised at the resort seems expensive at 800 baht per trip (though perhaps this is two-way, and waits for you, e.g., if swimming). Snorkelling equipment is offered and a series of rocks on the southern end of the beach allow the observation of some minimal sea life. The owner seems to speak Russian and a Russian language menu and sign are visible in the restaurant, which offers a fair selection, though island-inflated prices top some cheaper venues. Single kayak available with single-ended paddle.

Connect

Compared to neighbouring Ko Chang, infrastructure is generally thin. Some resorts offer Internet access (such as Siam Beach Resort and Koh Kood Resort) while others do not. Internet appears to be offered via 3.5G UMTS (i.e., mobile, quite slow) and is prone to dropping out.

Local tourist information is hard to come by, but Internet searches will reveal maps of the island.

NO ATMs OR banks! Take cash. Only higher end resorts take credit cards. If you run out of money, second hand sources report that credit card cash advances are possible at the larger resorts for a 5% fee.

Go next

• Ko Chang
• Ko Mak