Herm
Herm is an island measuring 1½ miles north-south by half a mile east-west, so it's the smallest of the publicly-accessible Channel Islands. It's part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey and lies 3 miles east of that island. Little has ever happened here, even during the wartime occupation. Notable past residents were the novelist Compton Mackenzie, and Prince and Princess Blücher of Prussia: the Prince, descended from the ally who saved Wellington's skin at Waterloo, decided that what Herm needed was lots and lots of wallabies.
Get in
The only public transport to Herm is the Trident Ferry from St Peter Port on Guernsey. This sails daily year round, taking 20 mins, with six sailings Apr-June and Sept-Oct, eight July-Aug, and only one Nov-March. An adult return is £13.50: buy this before boarding from the ticket kiosk, prominent next to the Weighbridge clock tower and roundabout on the Esplanade. Listen carefully to their instructions for boarding and return, because these vary with the tides and weather. In St Peter Port, it's usually the "Inter-Island Quay" a little further down the pier on the right; but at low tide it may be from next to the Weighbridge (the "Cambridge Steps" are no longer used). On Herm, it will be the main harbour at high tide, or Rosaire steps half a mile south at low water.
Get around
Walk. There are no vehicles on Herm, not even bikes. Locals use tractors and quads as necessary, and if you arrive with luggage for a stay-over, your accommodation can arrange a pick-up from the harbour.
See
- St Tugual's Chapel dates to the 11th century. Note the stained glass windows with Noah's Ark and Guernsey cows, and Jesus talking to the fisherman at Herm harbour.
- Beaches: the south of Herm has a rocky coastline, but all round the north are sandy beaches, with the best on the sheltered east coast. Follow the lane across the island and the first is the small 1 Belvoir Bay. Go a half a mile north to the long 2 Shell Beach.
- 3 Jethou is the small island half a mile south of Herm. It's governed as part of St Peter Port on Guernsey, rather than as part of Herm. But the distinction is irrelevant since it's privately owned and you can't visit, and this is as close as you'll get.
Do
- Outdoor Guernsey hire kayaks and paddleboards, lead kayak trips and do archery.
- Garden tours are mid-April to mid-Sept, Tuesday at 11:00, £8.
Buy
- The island shop near the ferry jetty sells clothes, jewellery, souvenirs, sweets and more.
Eat
- 1 Mermaid Tavern, Herm GY1 3HR, ☏ +44 1481 750050, tomjones@herm.com. Mar-Oct daily 11:00-23:00, Nov-Feb varies. A pub and restaurant, eat indoors or out in the courtyard, good filling portions. Groups can hire the upstairs "theatre" where the chef juggles paellas while you watch. Nov-Feb opening is restricted, enquire before travel.
- Within the White House (see "Sleep") are Ship Inn, Apr-Oct 12:00-21:00, and Conservatory Restaurant, Apr-Oct 18:30-21:30 plus Sunday lunch 12:30-14:30.
- Shell Beach and Belvoir Bay on the east coast have cafes, open May-Sept daily 09:00-17:00.
Drink
Ship Inn and Mermaid Tavern are the obvious choices.
Sleep
The local family firm runs all the accommodation on Herm: the hotel, self-catering, and campsite.
- 1 White House Hotel, Herm GY1 3HR, ☏ +44 1481 750075. The only hotel on the island, clean and comfortable. B&B double £175.
- There are several self-catering cottages and log cabins, rented by the week for about £500.
- The campsite is open May-Sept. It has 80 pitches, adult £10 ppn, and tent hire is available.
Stay safe
You must have personal travel health insurance: like the rest of the Bailiwick of Guernsey, Herm has no reciprocal agreements with the UK National Health Service, EU "EHIC" system, or any other nation. Any local medical treatment must therefore be paid in full.
Go next
Back to Guernsey it must be.