Ibagué is the capital city of the Tolima department. It is on the eastern slopes of the Cordillera Central and known as the musical city of Colombia, due to its famous conservatory. At 1250 m above sea-level, it has a spring-like climate. Ibagué is a starting point for travellers who wish to do the Nevado del Tolima trek. Apart from that, it's a small, safe, friendly city with a special charm, although there's not an awful lot to do here.

Get in

By bus

Ibagué is a 4-hour bus journey from Bogotá, a 3-hour bus journey from Armenia, a 5-hour bus ride from Medellín and a 2-hour bus journey from Honda. Numerous companies serve these routes. The journey to Armenia involves going over the la linea and is notorious for accidents and landslides. Avoid doing this part of the journey at night or in a small minibus.

By plane

Aeropuerto Perales in Ibagué is about 40 minutes outside the city, and has non-stop flights from Bogotá, Medellín and other cities in Colombia.

See

• Conservatorio del Tolima, Calle 9 No. 1-18. Founded in 1906, it comprises an old, crumbling building and a modern one. Ask the guard to show you the views from the top. It's just round the corner from Plaza Bolívar. While the building itself is not that impressive, it's an important part of the city's heritage. 
• Jardín Botanico San Jorge, Cra 8 No. 19-120 Barrio Interlaken, ☏ +57 98 2638354. Botanical garden at the edge of Ibagué boasting over 500 species of plants. It has 7 km of nature trails (visitors can choose between a short, flat walk, or a longer, more challenging one). You'll have the chance to see a coca plant, if you've never seen one before. 
• Fundación Orquidea del Tolima (Reserva Natural Orquídeas del Tolima), Cra 30 No. 13-35, ☏ +57 98 2605995. Nature reserve with an impressive selection of orchids, including the national flower of Colombia, the endangered Cattleya trianae. There is a nature trail leading to a mirador where you can see a large part of Ibagué. 
• La Martinica. A nature reserve along the Armenia bypass that offers a good panoramic view of the whole city of Ibagué and the surrounding area. It is the hill with several telecommunications masts on top of it. Start early, as it can get quite hot. It will take you 2-3 hours to reach the top (1530 metres). 

Do

• Hang around Plaza Bolívar watching people.

Eat

• Shalom, Cra 3 between Calle 8 and Calle 9. Serves good quality, inexpensive set meals. 
• Yel Coctel Delicatessen, Calle 10 between Cra 4 and Cra 5. Try the cakes and avena drink. 
• Mateus, Calle 10 between Cra 3 and Cra 4. Try the delicious freshly baked bread. 

Drink

• Tertulia, Cra 5 between Calle 10 and Calle 11. A good indoor venue to enjoy a beer while listening to rock music. 
• Libro y Son. Nice setting to listen to salsa and enjoy a few beers, it's near the Universidad del Tolima away from the City center. 

Sleep

If you are just staying in Ibagué overnight, there are many cheap hotels around the terminal. Other options are in the center of the city. The two places below (in the center) are a better option if you plan to stay for a longer time.

Budget

• Hotel Luisa, Calle 13 No. 4-17, ☏ +57 98 263 7952, +57 98 263 9268. Double ensuite rooms, with TV for COP$20,000. There is no hot water in this hotel, but the water in Ibagué isn't that cold anyway. 
• Hotel Center, Cra 4 No. 12-52, ☏ +57 98 263 7311, +57 98 263 7322. Has double en suite rooms for COP$41,600. They have hot water. 

Mid-range

• Hotel Acandi, Cra 3 No 11-60, ☏ +57 98 2610010 , +57 98 2610244 , +57 98 2611803, +57 98 2614068, hotelacandi@etb.net.co. Close to the city centre, and an en suite double room is COP$88,600. 

Splurge

• Casa Morales, Cra 3a No. 3-47 Barrio La Pola, ☏ +57 98 261 9404. It's close to the center of the city, and has fine views. A double room is COP$179,500 including breakfast. 
• Hotel Dulima, Carrera 2 # 13 -38, ☏ +57 98 2622286, reservas@hoteldulima.com. In the city center. A double en suite room is COP$125,400 including breakfast, wireless internet access, parking and other services. 
• Sofitel Ibagué Altamira, Cra 1 No 45-50, ☏ +57 98 2666111, reservas@sofitelaltamira.com.co. In the outskirts of the city, close to the bypass (variante) to Armenia. A double en suite room is COP$220,000 including breakfast. Wireless internet access available (COP$25,000/24 hours). 

Go next

• Juntas is a nearby village, especially popular at weekends and holidays, where people go and eat almojabanas, bunuelos, sancocho soup and river trout in a peaceful mountain setting. There is also a mirador from which, if you are lucky and there are no clouds, can see the Nevado del Tolima (early morning is best). You can get to Juntas by taking a bus in Cra 1/Calle 14 from "La Ibaguerena" bus company.
• From Juntas, you can walk up to El Rancho, some thermal springs in the cloud-forest at 2600 metres above sea-level; it's about a 4-hour leisurely walk uphill alongside the impressive canyon of the Combeima river, or you can take the morning lechero. El Rancho is the starting point for the trek up El Nevado del Tolima (5215 m). This is the mountain in Colombia where most mountaineers have lost their lives, and to reach the summit a guide is essential. See the Latas route in this Summitpost entry for more details.
• From el Rancho, you can also walk via the Filtros route to Laguna del Encanto and Salento.
• From Juntas, you can also walk to El Derrumbe de las Perlas : when you cross over the river, turn right immediately instead on continuing towards the mirador. After a couple of hours of leisurely walking you'll reach an open valley with a river, an ideal picnic spot. If you continue along this route, you can also reach the summit of the Nevado but this is quite a long way around. The route is known as Las Nieves, and is via some thermal springs at 3900 m where a hermit known as Don Canon lives.