Garni Temple

Garni is a village in the Kotayk Province of Central Armenia. Most visitors come on day trips from Yerevan to see Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery, but the area deserves a longer stay.

Understand

Garni is rich in history. The area was first occupied in the 3rd millennium BC along easily defensible terrain at one of the bends of the Azat River. In the 8th century BC the area was conquered by the Urartian King Argishti I. The fortification at Garni was erected probably sometime in the 3rd century BC as a summer residence for the Armenian Orontid and Artaxiad royal dynasties. Later around the 1st century BC the fortress of Garni became the last refuge of King Mithridates of Armenia, where he and his family were assassinated by his son-in-law and nephew Rhadamistus. The fortress was sacked in 1386 by Timur Lenk. In 1679 an earthquake devastated the area destroying the temple.

Much of the population today descends from people settled in the population exchange of 1829–1830, following the Treaty of Turkmenchay between Russia and Persia.

Get in

By marshrutka

Marshrutkas number #266 are the standard way to reach Garni, but they're not the fastest or the most comfortable option. They run from Yerevan's Gai Bus Station (in reality a park and you will fin the bus in the middle of the park) every 30 mins or so, cost 500 dram. (See Yerevan#Get in for directions to Gai Bus Station.) The route is east to Garni, where the 1 main bus stop is in town centre, and onward to Goght and Geghard Temple.

You can also go the whole way to Goght, which is also 500 dram. Another 500 and they will even bring you up to the Geghard monastery if there are other tourists on board and depending on your bargaining skills. Otherwise it is just 3-4 km each between Garni, Goght and Geghard, which you might just walk or hitch are ride.

Generally, you are better off, first going to Geghard, and from there working you way back to Garni and all its sights. A taxi from Goght to Geghard, and then to Garni should not be more that 2000-2500 including waiting at Geghard. It is just 15 km.

By taxi

Taxis are the quickest way to reach Garni, Goght or Geghard (+/-17 km). The one-way fare from Yerevan will be about 2,000-3,000 dram.

Get around

Unless you are in a hurry, walking is the best way to see Garni. If you need to know where to find something, almost any of the residents will be willing to point you in the right direction or even walk you there.

See

Mashtots Hayrapet Church

Surb Astvatsatsin Church

• 1 Garni Temple and Fortress (Just south of main road through town, well signposted. There are also many trails leading from the canyon directly up to the temple.). Temple complex perched above the canyon of the Azat river. Its centrepiece is the Hellenistic temple built in the 1st C BC - this was smashed by an earthquake in 1679 but reconstructed in the 1970s. Also here are the medieval main gate and fortifications, the circular foundations of a church built in 897 AD, walls of a two-storey royal summer palace built by the Urartians in the 8th C BC, a Roman-era bath house, and a cemetery. Guided tours are available but the place is self-explanatory. 1,500 dram. (updated Oct 2019)
• 2 Mashtots Hayrapet Church (Pok'r or "little" church) (Hidden behind houses just south of main highway through town). A hidden gem in Garni, a small basilica built in the 12th C in dark grey stone with red tufa decorations, intricately carved. (updated Oct 2018)
• 3 Surb Astvatsatsin Church (The Holy Mother of God) (A large blue sign points the direction to the church. Follow the main road just past the open area where the road forks and take the road to the right. The church will be after the two large buildings on the left). 17th-19th centuries. (updated Apr 2015)
• 4 Khumarzham Church (Khonarvats). 4th-5th centuries church which now lay in ruins. (updated Apr 2015)
• 5 Garni Gorge (The gorge is most easily reached by a road that leads left of the temple and down to the gorge and river. Another more direct but harder to find road leads to the gorge through the village, down a cobblestone road, and into the valley. Once in the valley, turning right will take you to what is referred to as the Symphony of Stones and an 11th century medieval bridge. Taking a left will lead you along the river past a fish hatchery, up to the Khosrov Reserve and a little further is Havuts Tar Monastery). This portion of the Garni Gorge is typically referred to as the "Symphony of the Stones". All along the sides of the gorge are vertical cliff walls of well preserved basalt columns. It is well worth the walk (updated Apr 2015)

Out of the city

Geghard Monastery

• 6 Geghard monastery (5 km east of Garni. Minibuses run to Goght, or a return taxi with one hour wait might be 3,000 dram.). Revered 11th C monastery, much of it carved out of the solid stone of the mountainside, in dramatic canyon setting. Monastery and canyon are a UNESCO World Heritage site. The fortified compound encloses the main church, holy springs, an upper chamber with unparalleled acoustics and many intricate khachkars. The "Geghard" was supposedly the Roman spear that pierced Jesus' side; this relic was long housed here but is now in Echmiadzin. (updated Oct 2018)

Khosrov Reserve

Havuts Tar Monastery's church

Aghjots Vank

It's a national park located directly across from Garni. It is a noted area in the Caucasus region for unique European and Asian flora and fauna; and is located at an altitude of 1600-2300 m above sea level. To get there you may take a taxi or walk down the road that crosses the river and goes up the ridge across the gorge from Garni and Goght. You must obtain permission to enter the reserve, it can be acquired at the Garni's Information center or at the forest guards' kiosk located on the trail leading to Havuts Tar Monastery (after passing 11th-century footbridge). Some additional info about reserve can be found at reserve's official web site.

• 7 11th-century footbridge. crossing the Azat River. This is the starting point of the trail leading to Havuts Tar Monastery, which is about 5-6 km away from the bridge. (updated Apr 2015)
• 8 Havuts Tar Monastery (To get to Havuts Tar, take the trailhead that is at the entrance and directly left of the gate. Some medieval khachkars may be seen midway along the trail as it forks left and upon a low mound. Follow the trail a little further until you see the complex perched upon the ridge). 11th to 13th century walled monastery.
  Just before entering through the wall surrounding the Havuts Tar monastery, a trail leads to the right up a hill and through a slightly wooded area. At the end of this trail not too far away, are the ruins of a small chapel with two khachkars nearby to the left and one to the right. (updated Apr 2015)
• 9 Aghjots Vank (Within the Khosrov Reserve). The monastery of Aghjots Vank contains the church of S. Poghos Petros (S. Paul and Peter) of 1270, an adjoining gavit of the 13th c., the church of S. Stepanos, and numerous khachkars. 
• 10 Kakavaberd (Within the Khosrov Reserve). A medieval Armenian fortress with large sections of walls still intact, first mentioned in the 9th-10th centuries. Towers at the northeastern side are 8 to 10 meters tall. Within the fortress are the ruins of a church and other structures. 

Do

• Hiking – There exist extensive hiking opportunities around Garni with waterfalls, churches and spectecular mountains.
• Horseback riding or camping at the Khosrov Reserve.
• It's possible to do a simple 2-hour return hike from Garni temple. First, descend from the temple to the river, follow it for 2-3 km till the 11th-century footbridge, then start ascending to the Garni village. Passing through the village you'll be able to see Mashtots Hayrapet and Surb Astvatsatsin churches.

Buy

Because the economy of the village is based predominantly on tourism, many "tourist" stands may be seen near Garni Temple and the main roads. Some good foods may be bought from villagers trying to make a living.

• Walnuts - The quality of walnuts vary from each part of Armenia. Garni has good tasting walnuts.
• Garni Village Gata - Specific to certain towns or villages in each region, this sweetbread is especially delicious from here.
• 1 Grocery store, Marzpetuni st. (updated Apr 2015)

Eat

• 1 Tavern (10 m away from the entrance to the Garni temple). Armenian cuisine with excellent views over the gorge and Garni temple. Sometimes it gets very busy with the tourists. (updated Apr 2015)
• 2 Trout fish restaurant (Garni fishery), ☏ +374 93 923464. A fish farm that has adjacent restaurant. They prepare mainly grilled fish, some side vegetables can be served as well. 3 types of the fish to choose from, 1 kg - from 3000 dram. (updated Apr 2015)

Sleep

Given the proximity of Yerevan, most of the visitors stay in the capital.

• 1 Garnitoun, 8 Marzpetunu st (right next to the fortress), ☏ +37 491 202757. Average rooms, even a bit rundown, But the views from the windows/balcony makes you forget about all disadvantages - it's simply stunning. Double 22,000 dram. Main dishes in restaurant 1,500-3,000 dram. (updated Apr 2015)
• 2 B&B "Chez Yvette", 31 Avenue de Gueghard, ☏ +374 94 278076, +374 55 278076. It has eight rooms overlooking a garden, open air swimming pool, internet, car-park, restaurant (French and Armenian cuisine). Double 18,000 dram. (updated Apr 2015)
• 3 Hostel "GarniRestHost", G.Marzpetuni str. 9. Simple hostel with smallish rooms, but the price is the lowest in the area. Double 10,000 dram. (updated Apr 2015)
• 4 Dinadav rest house, Bagramyan str. 50/1, ☏ +374 93 679152. Private villa for rent. You get entire two-floor house. one person - 20,000 dram, 2 - 25,000, 3 - 30,000 dram and then up to seven people. (updated Apr 2015)

Geghadir village

• 5 HyeLandz Eco Village Resort, 3 house, 6 Str, Geghadir village (15 km out of Garni on the way to Yerevan), ☏ +374 98 333322. Upscale option. It has a bar and a restaurant with Armenian and Lebanese cuisines. Table tennis, massage, picnic zone, barbecue places. Double from 35,000 dram. (updated Apr 2015)

Goght village

• 6 Golden Rooster Resort, Goght village, ☏ +374 98 412200. It has restaurant, table tennis, billiard, open air swimming pool. Rooms are quite big and richly decorated. Overall, hotel seems to have a good price-quality ratio comparing to other options in the area. Although to get to nearest sights it will be necessary to get a car/taxi as there is not much to do in Goght village itself. Double 20,000 dram. (updated Apr 2015)
• 7 Bed & Breakfast 3 Gs, Geghard Highway 3 the impasse, house 4, ☏ +374 0 94496094. Check-in: Open from 1 April and closed 1 October. B&B run by a Dutch couple, offering an outdoor pool, decent rooms with new furniture. Tents and campers are also welcomed. Double from 20,000 dram. (updated Apr 2015)

Connect

All three mobile operators have a decent 3G coverage in the area.

However, there was no WiFi spotted in local restaurants (2015), although some hotels might have WiFi available.

Go next

• Yerevan — Armenia's capital and the center of modern Armenian life