North Central Mumbai
North Central Mumbai consists of Dadar, Dharavi, Matunga, Wadala, Sion and Mahim. It is a solidly middle-class district, which developed due to immigration after independence (in 1947). The non-Muslim Sindhis and Punjabis were refugees from the partition. They settled in Sion and parts of Matunga. Another prominent community to settle here was the South Indians, especially the Tamils. They settled in Matunga and Vadala areas. The poorer migrants from Tamil Nadu settled in Dharavi, which was essentially a drained-out swamp. So Dharavi turned into one of Asia's largest slums.
The district is not a tourist haunt, but if you want a slice of Chennai in the city, you could visit the King's Circle, Matunga and explore some of the bylanes.
Get in
Map of North Central Mumbai
By train
All three of Mumbai's local railway lines pass through this district. The Central Line stations are Sion and Matunga. The Western Line stations are Matunga Road (not to be confused with the Matunga station on the Central line) and Mahim. The Harbour Line stations of Vadala Road, Guru Tegh Bahadur Nagar and Chunna Bhatti also lie in this district. In addition, the Western-Harbour link runs through this region and there has a stop at King's Circle.
By car
The Eastern Express Highway runs as far as Sion and runs into a perennial traffic jam at one point. Then it changes over to the Dr Ambedkar Road that runs all the way to South Mumbai. Road connectivity with the Central Line is not that good. The roads exist, but are very crowded. BEST buses in the series 1-199 that serve South Mumbai also serve this district and are very frequent.
On foot
North Central Mumbai is a rare district where the roads are actually walkable, as the footpaths in the Sion Circle and King's Circle areas are well-maintained and free of hawkers and other encroachments.
See
- 1 BEST Transport Museum, Anik Bus Depot, Wadala (monorail: Wadala Depot Monorail ). It features amateur mini models of BEST buses and the ancient trams.
- 2 Dharavi (suburban: Mahim Junction Western Harbour , Sion Central ). The Dharavi slum is a breathtaking, overwhelming experience at the heart of this part of Mumbai, with a massive recycling industry, ultra-dense housing, and both poverty and wealth existing in close proximity. Seeing the slum firsthand is safer and easier under the auspices of a professional guide such as Fahim Vora, based in Dharavi.
- 3 Lokmanya Tilak Bridge, Lokmanya Tilak Colony, Dadar (suburban: Dadar Western Central ). 24 hours daily. One of the oldest bridges in Mumbai, built-in 1923. This bridge is made entirely of granite and hard English-made metal. The bridge is an important connection between east and west Dadar. Approximately 10,000 cars use the bridge each day. Free.
- 4 Mumbai Mayor's Bungalow, Swatantrya Veer Savarkar Marg, Dadar W (suburban: Matunga Road Western ). The official residence of the Mayor of Mumbai and the famous Sena Bhavan, headquarters of the political party Shiv Sena.
Ambedkar memorials
- 5 Chaitya Bhoomi (चैत्य भूमि Caitya Bhūmi; Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Mahaparinirvan Memorial), Dadar W. A Buddhist shrine and the cremation place of Dr B. R. Ambedkar, the chief architect of the Indian Constitution. It is a revered place of pilgrimage for Ambedkar's followers, who visit in millions annually on his death anniversary on 6 December. The structure is square in shape with a small dome divided into ground and mezzanine floors. In the square-shaped structure is a circular wall about 1.5 metres in height. In the circular area are placed the bust of Ambedkar and a statue of Gautama Buddha. The circular wall has two entrances and is furnished with marble flooring. On the mezzanine floor, there is a Stupa, beside the resting place for Bhikkhus. The main entrance gate of the Chaitya Bhoomi is a replica of the Gate of the Stupa of Sanchi while inside a replica of the Ashoka Pillar is made.
- 6 Rajgruha, Hindu colony, Dadar E. The house of Dr B. R. Ambedkar. The ground floor of the three-story building hosts a heritage museum. Ambedkar collected more than 50,000 books during his time at Rajgruha, which made it one of the largest personal libraries in the world at the time of his death.
Forts
- 7 Mahim Fort (माहीम किल्ला Māhīm Killā), Mahim Causeway (from suburban: Mahim Junction Western Harbour 0.7 km W). Strategically located in Mahim Bay, the fort overlooks Worli to the south, Bandra to the north, and Mahim to the east. The origins of the fort are unclear, but it occupies a strategic location that has been frequently contested. The fort is in disrepair, suffering from administrative neglect, encroachment of slums, and exposure to tidal erosion. Large boulders are strewn on the sand and crevices as high as 3 metres (15 feet) are visible.
- 8 Sion Hillock Fort (शीवचा किल्ला Sīvcā Killā), Air Force Quarters, Sion E (suburban: Sion Central 300 m (980 ft)). It was built by the British Governor of Bombay Gerard Aungier atop a conical hillock. Sion was the boundary between British-held Parel Island and Portuguese-held Salsette Island and the castle marked the northeast boundary of their possession. The fort was built between 1669 and 1677. The fort is dilapidated and a collection of broken stone steps, scattered walls, and ruins overrun by trees and ground cover. The fort wall has a small room on top. A series of pathways lead to it. The fort offers a panoramic view, overlooking the salt pans in Thane Creek. However, vandalism and apathy have taken a toll on the structure.
Places of worship
Churches
- Don Bosco Church and School, Nathalal Parekh Marg, Matunga E (suburban: Kings Circle Harbour ). A very special and tranquil church. This is probably the most prominent landmark in this district.
- Jesuit Chapel (suburban: Sion Central ). In 1543, the Portuguese took possession of the islands of Bombay by force, naming it Sião. The Portuguese gave the Jesuit priests sole ownership of some of these islands. The Jesuits then built a chapel on the hill near the present-day and named it after Mount Zion (Sion) in Jerusalem.
- 9 Portuguese Church (Church of Our Lady of Salvation; Portuguese: Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Salvação), SK Bole Rd, Dadar W (suburban: Dadar Western Central ). The oldest church in Mumbai, originally built by the Portuguese Franciscans.
- 10 St. Michael's Church (सेंट मायकल चर्च Seṇṭ Māykal Carc; Mahim Church), Mahim.
Temples
- 11 Shree Marubai Gavdevi Mandir (Marubai Gaondevi Temple), Dr. Ambedkar Marg (Matunga Stn.). Around 1700s this area was called Marubai Tekdi Gaon, which is said was shortened to MaTunGa (Matunga). Marubai is the traditional Gaondevi (village Goddess) of Matunga whose small temple existed under a peepal tree at King's Circle.
- 12 Shri Siddhivinayak Temple (श्री सिद्धिविनायक मंदिर Śrī Siddhivināyak Mandir), SK Bole Marg, Prabhadevi (suburban: Prabhadevi Western , Parel Central ), ☏ +91 22 2437 3626, fax: +91 22 2422 1558. One of the most famous temples in Mumbai is a shrine to Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed god who is said to be the destroyer of obstacles. Many devout Hindus walk from their homes to this temple barefoot, especially on Tuesdays, which is considered a special day. The queue to enter the temple stretches to eternity on Tuesdays, so visit some other day if you can.
- Vitthal Temple (suburban: Vadala Road Harbour ; monorail: Wadala Bridge Monorail ). This is a 400-year-old Temple built by Sant Tukaram who brought the idol from Pandharpur, home of the original temple of Lord Vithal. The temple is known as Prati Pandharpur (Pandharpur temple’s replica). One of the many one-day festivals in Mumbai has been held in this temple to devote Lord Vitthal on Ashadhi Ekadashi (According to Hindu Calendar) in June/July.
Do
- 1 Dadar Chowpatty (Dadar Beach), Dadar W (suburban: Dadar Western Central ).
- 2 Maharashtra Nature Park. A small forested area with various species of butterflies.
- 3 Mancherji Joshi Five Gardens, Dadar E (suburban: Dadar Western Central , Vadala Road Harbour ; monorail: Dadar East Monorail , Wadala Bridge Monorail ). Take a walk in the mornings.
- 4 Shivaji Park (शिवाजी पार्क Śivājī Pārk; Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Park), Keluskar Road South, Dadar West (suburban: Dadar Western Central ), ☏ +91 1800 22 9930. The park is named after the legendary 17th-century warrior king of the region, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. The park was created in 1925 by the Mumbai Municipal Corporation, in the days of the British Raj. This is the largest park in Mumbai, known for its political and social gatherings and as a cradle of the cricket religion. The walkway around the perimeter is crowded with people taking walks. The inner circumference of the park is 1.17 km - 11.29 ha in area, the ground is busy with young cricket players. Various attractions are spread over the grounds, including the Samarth Vyayam Mandir (gymnasium), Shivaji Park Nagarik Sangh (established in 1947), Shivaji Park Gymkhana (club), Children's Park, Nana-Nani Park (Grandpa and Grandma park), Scout's Pavilion (which is a popular venue for marriages), Udyan Ganesh Mandir (Ganesh temple), The Bengal Club with a small Kali shrine and a library. The walkway is lined with huge rain trees. The most prominent entrance to the park is the one on the east side, intended only for pedestrians. A bust of Meenatai Thackeray, the late wife of politician Bal Thackeray, has been placed at this entrance. A bust of Ram Ganesh Gadkari used to be present at the same spot.
Theatres
- 5 Plaza movie theatre (Plaaza Cinema Dadar), NC Kelkar Road, Kasar wadi, Dadar West (Near Tilak Bridge.
: Dadar), ☏ +91 22 2430 4704. This was damaged during the 1993 bomb blasts/riots. It has now reopened and remains one of the theatres in Mumbai that show Marathi movies. - 6 Shivaji Mandir, NC Kelkar Road, Dadar (suburban: Dadar Western Central ). Marathi plays are running in this theatre.
Learn
- 1 Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute — Premier Engineering Institute, H R Mahajani Marg, Matunga East, Wadala (Matunga Station 0.5 km), ☏ +91 22 2419 8102.
Buy
- Sarees — The best place to buy them is Dadar. The place is buzzing 12 months a year. Good shops to buy sarees are Dadar Emporium, Lazaree, and RoopSangam.
- 1 Dadar vegetable market, Tulsi Pipe Road, Dadar West (From : Dadar Railway Station 100m West). This was the heart of the city and was responsible for distributing vegetables across all of Mumbai. It is said that one can get all possible things in Dadar. It is also famous for its underworld.
- 2 Matunga Market (Matunga Stn. 50m).
- 3 Secondhand books, streets of King's circle, Matunga. Dirt cheap prices, but many of them are pirated and the quality of paper is not very good.
- 4 Dadar (W) Flower Market, Gurunanak Marg? Tulsi Pipe Road, (Opposite Dadar Train Station). early morning. Visit early morning to see colourful and wholesale flower market in action
- 5 Dadar Emporium, NC Kelkar Rd, Dadar West, Dadar (: Dadar Railway Station). For sarees and more.
- 6 Adacks, NC Kelkar Road, Matunga West (near Sena Bhavan. Opp. Shivaji Park Post Office.), ☏ +91 7819870253, fax: +91 22-66625199. Reasonably priced shirts.
- 7 Benaras Silk House, Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Rd, Mahavir Nagar, Hindu Colony, Dadar and Ranade Road (: eastern Dadar Stn. near to Khodadad Circle), ☏ +91 22 2413 7455.
Eat
- Guru kripa (Supplier of samosas to almost all the cinema theatres in the city) (off Sion Circle).
- Peninsula (near Sion circle).
Authentic Marathi cuisine
- 1 Aaswad, Opp. Sena Bhavan, Shivaji Park, Dadar(W) (next to the petrol pump towards Mahim, at Gadkari Chowk?).
- 2 Dattatray (Pure vegetarian restaurant), Ranade-Gokhale Road Junction, Dadar(W) (Dadar Stn.).
- 3 Diwa Maharashtracha, Kataria Marg, Takandas Kataria Marg, Dadar(W) (Matunga Road Stn), ☏ +91 24440202.
Punjabi
- Aroma (Another traditional Punjabi restaurant for a quite drink), Dada Saheb Phalke Road, Dadar (E).
Fast food
- Classic (Decent Pav Bhaji and Masala pav) (opposite Don Bosco School).
Indian Chinese
- Chinaman (near Ruia College, Matunga). Great Chinese resto at a purely reasonable rate.
- Garnish (near Arora Theatre, Matunga). New place with Chinese, South Indian food.
Udupi restaurant
- Anand Bhavan (near Maheshwari Udyan).
- Amba Bhavan (near the Asthika Samaj Temple).
- Cafe Mysore (The Oldest Udupi restaurant in Mumbai, serving South Indian food) (near Maheshwari Udyaan, Matunga).
- Cafe Madras (near Maheshwari Udyaan, Matunga).
- Manis Lunch Home (Great South Indian Snacks) (near Ruia College, Matunga).
- 'Rama Nayak's Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding (Lip-smacking South Indian thali served on a banana leaf) (near Matunga railway station). ₹80.
- Sarada Bhavan (opposite Matunga railway station).
- Sadhana, Dada Saheb Phalke Road, Dadar (E).
Drink
- Cafe Coffee Day, Matunga. For the coffee lovers.
Sleep
- Hotel Ashray International, Plot - 12, Road, No 1 Sion, ☏ +91-22-2407 5544, +91-22-2409 1133, +91-22- 2409 1514. Check-in: 260708, check-out: 280708. This is a two-star hotel close to Sion railway station. ₹2879/night (as of Feb 2012).
Splurge
- 1 Hotel Midtown Pritam, Sir Bhalchandra Road, Dadar(E) (: Dadar Railway Station, opp. Punjab National Bank), ☏ +91 24042501, fax: +91 24042792, reservations@pritamhotels.com. This is a decently good hotel and is very close to Dadar station. - Here is the Pritam Da Dhaba: a traditional Punjabi restaurant with a very warm interior ideal for a quite drink ₹5,000-7,000 (2014), suite ₹10,000.
Connect
- 2 Dadar Post Office, Lokmanya Tilak Colony, Dadar East (: Dadar Stn.), ☏ +91 22 2416 8410.