Santa María del Río
Santa María del Río is a town in San Luis Potosi. It calls itself the cradle of the rebozo, staking a claim to one of Mexico's most well known textile handcrafts. The town is one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos and has a charming city center with two large plazas, some beautiful colonial churches, canoeing and kayaking on the river, and some fascinating remains of colonial-era haciendas.
Understand
The town's populations is about 12,000 people. If you include all the farms and villages of the greater municipality, the population of the whole area is almost 40,000.
History
Santa María del Río got its name from a Spanish viceroy in 1589, when it was still a small, young town. The area was originally home to the Guachichil, but experienced an influx of Otomi people following the conquest. The first group of Spaniards to make an imprint on the area were the Franciscan missionaries who evangelized the area in the early 16th century. The Franciscan convent was built in 1604.
During the 18th century, several haciendas developed the area's agricultural industries, as well as the mining industry. The town was known for its cinnabar (mercury ore) deposits.
Geography
The town lies along the Santa Maria River in a dry, mountainous area on the western edge of the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range. It is a scenic area with waterfalls, slow moving waters, caves, and woodlands. Thermal springs at Balneario de Lourdes are a source for bottled mineral water.
Get in
The easiest way to Santa Maria del Rio is by car, either taxi or on your own. A taxi will cost about M$400.
By car
From San Luis Potosi, it is an easy 40-minute drive to Santa Maria del Rio. Simply take federal highway MEX 57 (Carr. Matehuala-San Luis Potosi) south for 52 km and you'll be there.
Get around
The town is fairly compact and easily walkable, but you'll want a taxi for touring the haciendas or visiting waterfalls or other natural sites outside the town itself.
See
- 1 Plaza Martin Bautista, J.Ma. Morelos, Centro. City plaza with lots of shade trees, manicured topiary gardens, clean walkways, and an impressive bicentennial clock tower decorated in colors and patterns of rebozos. There are many shops and cafes nearby.
- 2 Jardin Hidalgo, C. Pascual M. Hernández Segura 110, Centro. Main plaza occupying two full city blocks with lots of shade trees, walkways, park benches, fountains, and bandstand. The town hall faces one side and the town's main church faces another. There are many shops and cafes nearby.
- 3 Parroquia Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion (Church of Our Lady of the Assumption), Centro. Oldest colonial era church in town, built by the Franciscans in 1604. The church includes a number of significant artworks including mural panels that actually pre-date the church and an image of the Virgen of Guadalupe carved from a tree trunk by sculptor Eduardo Vega. The nave is elaborately decorated with intricate patterns painted on the walls and murals painted on the vaulted ceilings.
- 4 Capilla de la Purisima, 79560, Porfirio Díaz Mori 4, Centro. 17th century chapel is said to be the first church the Franciscans built using indigenous labor. Smaller and less ornate than Our Lady of the Assumption across the plaza.
- 5 Casa del Rebozo, C. Pascual M. Hernández Segura 88, Centro. 10:00 - 16:00 (closed Mon). Living museum to the artistry and work that lies behind the simple garment known as the rebozo. Its a shawl that's hand woven and can be solid colors or patterns or textures, depending on the skill of the artisan. The museum is open to visitors who can watch classes underway teaching people how to make quality rebozos. Learn how the materials are selected and how the process is varied to produce different affects. Hundreds of rebozos are on display.
Do
- Hacienda tour - you can visit several 17th century haciendas near the town in some of the surrounding villages, haciendas include: Hacienda de Lourdes, Hacienda Badillo, Hacienda Labor del Rio, Villa Quemada
- 1 Cascada del Salto, El Amparito, Manuel J. Othón V.. Beautiful narrow waterfall dropping straight down over a sheer cliff wall into the bright blue waters of a small pond where you can swim. The waterfall is about a 10-15 minute hike from the Señor del Amparo Chapel, just a few minutes outside town on a paved road. There are no facilities here, the trail is unimproved and unmarked, and is rarely visited by locals.
Festivals
- Feria Regional del Rebozo (Regional Rebozo Fair) - happens each year in early August, one of the biggest events of the town's social calendar, the main attraction is the runway show featuring work of the area's best artisans and showcasing their latest designs, other attractions of the fair are folk dancing, music, food, and fireworks.
Buy
- 1 Plaza Artesanal, Melchor Ocampo 287, Centro. 08:00 - 20:00 daily. Artesania marketplace with several vendors selling handcrafts, especially rebozos.
Eat
Santa Maria del Rio has a small, tight-knit Chinese-Mexican community, many of them 4th generation. Several restaurants in town serve Chinese-Mexican cuisine, a happy marriage of two great cuisines.
Chinese-Mexican cuisine
- 1 Ying-Yang, Fray Diego de La Magdalena 159, Barrio de Santiago, ☏ +52 485 853 1490. 10:30 - 20:00 (closed Wed). Chinese cuisine with ample portions at affordable prices. Dishes are prepared fresh to order (not pre-made buffet). Locals wash down the food with a michelada. M$150.
- 2 China House, C. Primo Feliciano Velázquez Rodríguez 748, Barrio de Santiago, ☏ +52 485 853 1234. 10:30 - 19:30 (closed Wed). Oldest and most popular of the town's Chinese restaurants. Large plates, but they do offer a half order if you're a light eater. One of the more unusual dishes (to Americans) will be the queso wontons. Small dining room fills quickly so there is often a wait for tables. M$150.
- 3 Comida China Salsas, Prof. Alberto Carrera Torres 873, San Jose. 10:30 - 19:30 (closed Tu). Chinese-Mexican cuisine, large plates can serve two. Affordable prices. Take-out available. Free off-street parking. M$150.
- 4 Golden Gate, Fray Diego de La Magdalena 378, Barrio de Santiago, ☏ +52 485 853 1884. 11:00 - 20:00 (closed Th). Affordable food with ample portions. M$150.
Mexican cuisine
- 5 Rustic, Melchor Ocampo 39. 14:00 - 00:00. Casual bar and grill with rustic decor and a large outdoor patio area. Usual domestic beers, plus a couple imports (Miller High Life). Food is typical bar food, burgers, fries, tacos, barbecue wings, etc.
- 6 La Nacional, Vicente Guerrero Saldana, Centro. Cozy traditional Mexican restaurant on a side street near the zocalo, house specialties include homemade molito, very locally sourced chicken (raised by the owners), with handmade tortillas and a natural Jamaican ginger water.
- 7 La Cocina de las Flores, Ignacio Zaragoza Seguin 221, Centro, ☏ +52 444 142 3839. 09:30-17:30 Sa-Su only (closed weekdays). Bright, clean, modern restaurant that caters to the weekend getaway crowd. Extensive menu with lots of traditional Mexican dishes. Chilaquiles Verdes are a winner at breakfast as are the sopes and menudo. Good coffee and aguas frescas. M$200.
Drink
- 1 Italian Coffee Company, MEX 57 Km 377, ☏ +52 800 225 3700. 07:00 - 22:30. Cappucino, frappe, iced coffee, light pastries. Hit or miss service. M$100.
Sleep
- 1 Hotel la Puesta del Sol, Primo Feliciano Velazquez 120, 16 de Septiembre 120, Lindavista, ☏ +52 485 853 0059. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate roadside motel with spacious, clean rooms, but hard platform beds and no air conditioning. Large swimming pool, kids playground, on-site restaurant with buffet.
- 2 Hotel Jardin, José Ma. Morelos 252, Centro, ☏ +52 485 853 2265. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel on the main plaza. Rooms are clean and affordable. Free parking and WiFi.
- 3 Hotel Cuatro Caminos, Calle Heroes del 47 19, ☏ +52 485 853 0552. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate budget hotel on the main plaza. Spacious, clean rooms are comfortable. Off-street parking available, but the lot is a couple blocks away. Cash only (no credit cards).