Guernica
Guernica[dead link] (Basque: Gernika) is a Basque town known for its Monday market day which has for decades been considered as a holiday in the town.
Airborne bombing by the German Condor Legion in support of Spanish fascists in 1937 destroyed much of Guernica's old town, but several parts were spared and many were rebuilt. Today, Guernica is a thriving commercial town of 37,000 people (2018) with several museums. Because of its history, it has also become an important symbol of Basque culture and identity.
Understand
Guernica is the traditional seat of the Basque people's liberties, where the juntas generales (the parliament), established in the 15th century, would assemble under the shadow of an oak tree in the town. The tree, commonly called "The Tree of Guernica" (Basque: Gernikako arbola), symbolises the Basque people's historic and traditional rights (Spanish: fueros), and is represented on both Guernica's and Vizcaya's coat of arms.
The town was the site of the first airborne bombing attack on a civilian town during the Spanish civil war. The bombing, by the Condor Legion of Germany's Luftwaffe in 1937, inspired Picasso to paint the landmark cubist work Guernica, now on display at the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia in Madrid.
Get in
Guernica lies roughly 35 km north-east of Bilbao on the N635 road to Bermeo. There is a Euskotren train connection from Bilbao's Zappikaleak (Casco Viejo) station on line E4 departing every 30 minutes on weekdays and hourly at weekends with a journey time of around an hour. Alternatively there is a bus which could be slightly quicker. You can use a Barik card on either.
Get around
The centre of Guernica is easily covered on foot. Free car-parking is available near the Ertzaintza police station (follow road-signs). From there it is a short walk to the tourist office at Artekalea 8. All the main sights can be reached within 10-15 minutes walk from there.
See
- Gernika Peace Museum ((Basque: Gernikako Bakearen Museoa, Spanish: Museo de la Paz de Guernica)), Plaza de los Fueros 1 (in square opposite tourist office), ☏ +34 94 627 1213, museoa@gernika-lumo.net. Apr-Sep: Mon 10:00-16:00 Tu-Sa 10:00-19:00, Su 10:00-14:300; see website for other dates.. A thematic museum inspired by the 1937 bombing. It examines the nature of peace, the legacy of the Guernica bombing and peace in the modern world. There is a section that explains the events around the bombing. The key parts of the exhibitions are labelled in English but they offer a printed translation of the rest of the text in English. Adult €6; Groups, students, 65+ €4; see website for free days.
- Euskal Herria Museum, c/Allendesalazar 5, Gernika-Lumo, ☏ +34 94 625 5451, fax: +34 94 625 7415, euskalherriamuseoa@bizkaia.net. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-19:00, Su 11:00-15:00, public holidays: 11:00-14:00 and 16:00-20:00, closed M. Housed in a Baroque mansion dating from 1733, the museum gives a broad overview of the historical, social and cultural significance of the Basque charter of rights, a background to the region, and some insight into Basque culture represented in visual arts, music, dance and sport. Adults €3.50, children/students/+65 €2.
- Church of Santa María de la Antigua: Built in 1826-33 by Antonio de Echevarría in the purest Neo-classical style, this building is used as the plenary meeting hall of the General Assemblies of Biscay.
- Park of the Peoples of Europe (Spanish: Parque de los Pueblos de Europa) with sculptures by Henry Moore and Basque artist Eduardo Chillida
- Assembly House and the Tree (Basque: Batzarretxea eta Arbola, Spanish: Arbol y Casa de Juntas)
- Udetxea Palace, Allendesalazar etorb (in Park of the Peoples of Europe), ☏ +34 94 625 7125, urdaibai@ej-gv.es. Oct-May: M-Th 09:00-13:00 and 15:00-17:00, F 09:00-14:30; Jun-Sep: M-F 09:00-14:30. The palace houses the official headquarters of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, designated by Unesco in 1984. The reserve is a protected area where there is a commitment to sustainable development. Free.
Do
There is a Henry Moore sculpture, "Great Figure in a Shelter", in a small park behind the Picasso Guernica ceramic.
Buy
Eat
- 1 Boliña (Hotel Boliña), Barrenkale, Allende Salazar Kalea, 3, ☏ +34 946 250 300. Bar-restaurant with pavement tables on both sides of the street. Pintxos, sandwich, salads & more substantial meals. Vegetarian options. Also is Hotel.
Drink
Sleep
- Lurdeia, Artike auszoa, z/g 48370 Bermeo, ☏ +34 666 477665. Casa Rural guesthouse on an organic farm with stunning views over the estuary out to Bermeo. Offers bed and breakfast with self-catering options. The farm has some prehistoric standing stones. About €100/night.
Go next
Guernica is in easy reach of Bilbao and also has train (indirect) and bus connections to San Sebastian, and the coastal resort of Bermeo, 14 km to the north.
The picturesque fishing village of Elantxobe, perched at the foot of sheer cliffs, is another short bus ride away, and as a bonus, you can watch the bus being spun around on a turntable before it can make its journey back up the narrow cliff-face road.
Other nearby beaches are at Mundaka and Lekeitio