La Graciosa
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- This page describes one of the Canary Islands. For Graciosa in the Azores see Graciosa (Azores)
Graciosa is the smallest inhabited island of the Canary Islands archipelago. It extends 8 km (5.0 mi) north-south and 4 km (2.5 mi) east-west, with an arid landscape and a population of 734 in 2018. It's the only inhabited island of the Chinijo archipelago north of Lanzarote, and administratively is part of the municipality of Teguise there. Geologically it arose separately, and in 2018 it was proclaimed "the eighth Canary Island" rather than part of Lanzarote, but the admin arrangements and sleepy atmosphere didn't change a jot.
Understand
A "hot spot" plume of magma caused a chain of volcanic islands to break the surface in the Atlantic some 16 million years ago, growing and coalescing and eroding by turns. By 4 million years ago these lay in their present configuration with Fuerteventura south, Lanzarote centre, and the Chinijo Archipelago north. The local activity lessened as the hot spot migrated west to create the other Canary islands, with the last eruptions here 3000-5000 years ago. Graciosa became inhabited, albeit very sparsely and intermittently, along with Lanzarote around 1000 BC by Berbers from North Africa. Medieval Spanish settlers had little use for the island as the climate is arid, with no source of fresh water; the highest peak at 266 m (873 ft) is too low to draw the clouds and rain of the lusher islands. Graciosa only attracted a substantial permanent population from 1870 onwards, when a fish salting and pickling factory was built. And until Órzola harbour was developed in the 20th century, the route to Lanzarote involved a steep path up its cliffs.
Mass tourism to the Canaries grew from the 1970s at the end of Franco's regime, but passed Graciosa by, as it has no airport and limited attractions. It's a sleepy island with small-scale fishing and quiet beaches: its admirers might liken it to the tranquil Spanish coast of the 1950s. The only village is Caleta del Sabo, reached by ferry across the 2 km (1.2 mi) channel from Órzola on Lanzarote. 5 km (3.1 mi) northeast by dirt roads is Casas de Pedro Barba, formerly the fish-processing factory but now just a collection of holiday homes with no other facilities.
The other islands in the Chinijo Archipelago are uninhabited: these are Montaña Clara, Roque del Este, Roque del Oeste, and Alegranza. These and most of Graciosa are a national park and nature reserve, which extends across the channel to the brooding cliffs of north Lanzarote, the Risco de Famara.
Get in
Lineas Romero foot passenger ferries sail hourly from Órzola on the north tip of Lanzarote. They take 30 minutes so a day trip is easily possible, for a return fare in 2023 of €28 adult, €15 child.
1 Caleta del Sebo pier is the landing point.
Boat excursions around Graciosa start from Órzola and may also pick up at Caleta del Sebo.
There is no airfield, but the heliport is 300 m (980 ft) west of the town. Land only by prior permission, as it's usually occupied by a medical emergency helicopter.
Get around
The island roads are dirt tracks but firm going.
You can bring a bicycle on the ferry, or rent from Mato Bike at C La Fija 5 near the pier or Bicis La Graciosa 300 m north at C Calima 26.
Aaron drives the island taxi and can take you around for a tour.
See
- The Harbour by the ferry pier is a pleasant place to relax, watching colourful fishing vessels unload their catch to the restaurants, against the backdrop of the black cliffs of Lanzarote.
- Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, C Garcia Escaméz 21 (main plaza 100 m north of port). Charming church, completed in 1945 and serving as the parish church from 1993. The altar is in the shape of a fishing boat, decorated with other aspects of fisherfolk's lives.
- Chinijo Museum, C Margarona 27, ☏ +34 928 177461. Closed. A tiny museum with well laid out exhibits on the geography and history of the Chinijo archipelago, describing the production of aloe and salt, as well as marine life and the marine reserve. It's temporarily closed.
- 1 Isla de Montaña Clara is an uninhabited islet 2 km (1.2 mi) north of Graciosa.
- Roque del Oeste or Roque del Infierno is 1 km north of Montaña Clara.
- Roque del Este is 11 km (6.8 mi) northeast of Lanzarote.
- 2 Alegranza is uninhabited. It extends about 4 km (2.5 mi) by 3 km (1.9 mi) and is the most northerly of the Canaries, the first to come into view sailing from mainland Spain, and its name indicates joy at doing so. For many modern visitors, it's likewise the first to be seen as their plane descends towards Lanzarote or Fuerteventura. Its appearance is distinctive, with a 1 km (0.62 mi)-diameter crater dominating the west and the rest flat, as if Phobos had been squished by a tetchy Mars.
Do
- Buceo Graciosa Dive Centre, Av Virgen del Mar 119A (at port), ☏ +34 629 451430, info@buceolagraciosa.com. Daily 08:30-17:00. Organizes diving excursions (as far away as Alegranza), with kit rental. They also offer courses for beginners.
- 1 Playa del Salado 1 km (0.62 mi) west of the village has some rocky areas but is mostly sandy.
- 2 Playa Francesca is another sandy expanse at the south tip of Graciosa.
- Playa La Cocina can be reached by hiking over the ridge west of Playa Francesca, but it's easier to approach by boat.
- 3 La Aguja Grande at 266 m (873 ft) is the highest peak. You can climb it, but most visitors prefer to circle it on the dirt road.
- 4 Playa de las Conchas is a beautiful sandy beach, but it's exposed to the Atlantic waves and strong currents, so it's not safe to swim here.
- 5 Montaña Bermeja means "reddish-blonde mountain", tinged by the iron-rich minerals of its lava flows. At 157 m it's a short but steep ascent from the south. Not to be confused with Isla Bermeja, a reddish-blonde islet which would be off the Yucatan peninsula if it existed, but it's a phantom, a figment of cartographers' imaginations.
- 6 Barranco de los Conejos is a secluded, sheltered beach. Follow the hiking trail north along the coast towards Pedro Barba.
- Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen is held on 16 July.
Buy
The island stores cluster near the harbour: Supermercado La Mar (daily 08:00-22:00), Covirán (daily 08:00-22:00), Minimarket Frutas y Verduras Victoria (M-Sa 08:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00) and Comestibles La Graciosa (M-F 08:00-19:30, Sa 08:00-17:00).
Eat
- Fish is the base of almost all food. Fish soup with sea bream and grouper is caldo de pescado; with corn added it's called caldo de millo. Sancocho is a stew of salted fish and potatoes served with bread baked with gofio flour, and spiced with mojo - see Lanzarote#Eat for varieties. Lapas and clacas are shellfish, grilled and drizzled in green mojo sauce.
- El Varadero, Av Virgen del Mar 123 (by port), ☏ +43 928 842175. W-M 14:30-16:30, 20:00-23:00. First place you see coming off the ferry, and hard to beat for quality.
- Restaurante Girasol, Av Virgen del Mar 99 (by port), ☏ +43 610 768221. Daily 09:00-24300. Trad Spanish dishes, mixed reviews for quality and service.
- Casa Enriqueta, C Mar de Barlovento 6 (50 m inland from port), ☏ +43 928 842084. Daily 13:00-16:30, 20:00-23:00. Reliable grill, service not speedy so it's not for a quick bite.
- La Caletilla Casa Chano by the port gets poor reviews.
- Rosa`s la lía, C Noray 10 (100 m west of port), ☏ +43 622 712216. Tu-Su 09:00-00:00. Friendly place with vegetarian options.
- Vulcanito Burger is a laid-back cafe next to Rosa's on C Noray, open daily 10:00-22:30.
Drink
- Seawater is desalinated on Lanzarote and piped under the channel to supply Graciosa: please use it sparingly. It will slake a thirst, but in your tumbler soon becomes flat and dull, so order bottled water to accompany your meals. La Graciosa is too arid for vineyards, but wine is produced on Lanzarote.
- El Veril, Av Virgen del Mar 93 (by port), ☏ +43 622 051267. Daily 09:00-23:00. Small cafe-bar with beers and fresh tapas.
- El Saladero, Av Virgen del Mar 107 (by port). W-M 07:00-23:00. Bar serving cold beer, toast and tapas.
Sleep
- Apartamentos El Marinero, Av Virgen del Mar 45 (at port). Apartments for 4 guests or more, with a view over the harbour.
- Evita Beach, Av Virgen del Mar 59 (west side of port), ☏ +43 616 396949. Laid-back apartments with a sea view.
- Playa del Salado camping area west side of town remains closed.
- 1 Pedro Barba Villas, Caserio Pedro Barba 16. A group of rental villas in the centre of Pedro Barba.
Connect
Finish any important calls before taking the ferry. As of October 2023, Caleta de Sebo has 4G from Masmovil, Moviestar and Orange but nothing from Vodafone, and the rest of the island has no signal.
Go next
You have to return by ferry to Órzola on the main island of Lanzarote. Buses from there head to Arrecife.