Batopilas
Batopilas is a small village in a side canyon of the Copper Canyon in Northern Mexico. It was once a prosperous mining town that made millionaires of a handful of wealthy landowners, but today is largely a ghost town with a population of about 1200 hardy souls (2010). The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
The town is in the Copper Canyon system at the bottom of a canyon on the banks of a small river. The region is populated by the Tarahamura indigenous people (also called Raramuri). The Tarahamura called the canyon "Bachotigori" which was a strange word to the Spanish who, having arrived on the scene in 1632, decided that "Batopilas" was close enough and was easier for a Spaniard to say and spell. The canyon is called Batopilas, as is the river, and of course the town. If you left your dog there, he'd have been re-named Batopilas too.
The Spanish would have ignored the place and kept riding to somewhere more hospitable, but they noticed chunks of silver ore in the river. A mine was soon established there. More mines sprouted up in the 18th century and several fortunes were made from the rich silver deposits.
In the latter half of the 19th century, American capitalists bought out the silver mines. Through corruption and cronyism with Porfirio Diaz, they managed to exploit local workers, appropriate indigenous lands, and evade Mexican laws. When the Mexican Revolution began in 1910, the Americans started leaving and local miners left soon after. Batopilas was a virtual ghost town by 1930, with only about 400 residents remaining. The mining industry never recuperated and the next wave of entrepreneurs to come to Batopilas were drug lords at the end of the 20th century. They saw remote areas of Chihuahua to be ideal places to stay under the radar of authorities and an easy place to corrupt local and state police.
Get in
By bus
The easiest way to get to Batopilas is to take a bus from Chihuahua. Rápidos Cuauhtémoc has buses leaving Chihuahua every 2 hours to Casas Coloradas. Casas Coloradas is a 16-km taxi ride to Batopilas. The 2-1/2 hour trip from Chihuahua to Casas Coloradas will cost about M$1500. Tickets are available online from the Estrella Blanca web site.
By colectivo
From Creel, there is a once daily colectivo (combi) to Batopilas. The 140 km trip takes 3-hours and will cost M$500-900.
Get around
See
- 1 Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, Juarez 20, Centro. Historic 18th century mission church, it is the town's main church.
- 2 Hacienda San Miguel, Batopilas. Colonial era hacienda built on a bluff overlooking the Rio Batopilas in the mid 1600s. The hacienda controlled mining operations in the area and the landed gentry enjoyed exploiting slave labor to turn a profit until 1821 when independence was one from Spain and the first constitution outlawed slavery and granted equal rights to everyone. The hacienda was occupied by different silver mine owners over the centuries and some travel guides may inappropriately rename it after one or another temporary resident, but the actual name is Hacienda San Miguel. The last occupant of the hacienda was Don Ángel Bustamante who died in 1820. With independence won a few months later, the hacienda was abandoned and today is a crumbling ruin.
- 3 Plaza Principal, Nigromante, Centro. Town square and popular local gathering spot. The town hall (Presidencia Municipal) is here as are the iconic town letters that would make for an excellent selfie.
- 4 Mision Satevo, Batopilas. Very cool old church that was built in 1764 by Jesuit missionaries but then abandoned when the Jesuit order was kicked out of Mexico in 1767. The town of Batopilas assumed ownership of the property but really had no need for an isolated church 5 km out of town, so they boarded it up and abandoned it for over 200 years. In the 1990s it was lightly restored and re-opened. The church is often referred to as the "lost church" or the "ghost church". It's been returned to functional condition and mass is sometimes offered here, but the place still has an atmosphere of neglect about it.
Do
There are some swinging bridges that cross the Rio Batopilas. One of these bridges takes you to a gaping gateway into a mountain that was the entrance to an historic silver mine. There's no guides or admission charge or even waivers to sign. Just bring a flashlight and maybe a hard hat and walk right in. The entrance doesn't seem to be marked on any GPS systems, but local kids would be happy to show you where it is....for a few pesos.
Buy
Eat
There are not many restaurants in Batopilas, though you will find a couple of street food options near the Plaza Principal. Most hotels also have restaurants on-site or can at least recommend places where you can get a meal.
- 1 Carolina, Plaza de la Constitución, ☏ +52 649 104 8123. Daily 08:00 - 20:00. Traditional Mexican restaurant with some regional specialties. Good hot cakes at breakfast, good stews and chicken enchiladas.
Drink
Sleep
- 1 Hotel Casa Real de Minas de Acanasaina, Calle Donato Guerra 1, Centro, ☏ +52 614 427 3097. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Quaint boutique hotel in the center of town. Clean, spacious, well-furnished rooms that have air conditioning and good WiFi. The owner is friendly, knowledgeable; he can provide travelers with information and advice about local sights.
- 2 Hotel Juanitas, Nigromante 7, Centro, ☏ +52 614 120 5652. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Beautiful colonial style hotel with rooms set around a central courtyard garden. Hot water and cold air conditioning. Veranda with views of the river. M$700.
- 3 Hotel Mary, Calle 15, Centro, ☏ +52 649 488 0074. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Modest hotel with friendly service. Clean, comfortable rooms set around a small central courtyard. On-site restaurant.
- 4 Copper Canyon Riverside Lodge, Juárez, Centro, ☏ +52 614 427 3097. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Upscale boutique hotel in a restored, modernized 200-year old hacienda. Tranquil courtyard garden. Air conditioned rooms. M$4000.
Connect
Cell coverage is flaky at best and nonexistent in most areas around Batopilas.