Teapa
Teapa is a small city of less than 30,000 people (2020) in the southern Mexico state of Tabasco. People visit Teapa for its colonial architecture and heritage and for its natural attractions including scenic rocky rivers, rolling hills, natural baths, and underground caves. It is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
In the pre-Colombian era, Teapa was known as the "capital of the Zoques". The Zoques are an indigenous people who trace their heritage to the ancient Olmec. Unfortunately, there are no significant archaeological sites near Teapa.
The town's colonial history dates from 1594, when it was established as a Spanish town. Dominican friars were entrusted with the mission of evangelizing and converting local natives to Christianity. The Dominicans built the Convento de Santo Domingo in 1633. In the early 18th century, Franciscans and Jesuits would also come to Teapa. The Franciscans built the church of Santiago Apóstol between 1715 and 1725.
Local uprisings occurred during the Mexican War of Independence, but critics of the crown were effectively silenced. Indian uprising was not as easily contained, but a treacherous indian woman named Pascuala Chavez who turned against her people, earning praise from King Carlos III. After Mexico achieved its independence, turmoil ensued in Tabasco and for a time, Teapa served as the state capital under the leadership of Juan Dionisio Marcín who was part of a coalition to preserve federalist government in Tabasco. Other insurrections rose and were suppressed in the late 19th century.
The town is sometimes known as Santiago de Teapa or more formally referred to as Heroica Villa de Santiago de Teapa, though neither of those is ever used by anyone other than bombastic government officials. Everyone just calls the place Teapa.
The town's landscape is dominated by rolling hills and a river (Rio Teapa) that begins in town, flowing to the Rio Puyacatengo. The surrounding hills, referred to as the Sierra Madrigal, that include El Sombrero, Coconá, Cerro Gordo, El Azufre and Coronada. There are abundant nature watching opportunities here as well as unique natural features like rocky streams and underground caverns.
Get in
The closest large city with scheduled commercial airline service is Villahermosa (VSA IATA).
By bus
From Villahermosa, it is a 1-hour bus ride to Teapa. Autobuses TRT has one direct bus each day with fares costing M$50.
- 1 Autobuses TRT, Central Camionera de los Quintero, Centro. Small station stop close to downtown points of interest.
By car
From Villahermosa, drive south on federal highway MEX-195. The 55 km trip will take just under an hour.
Get around
See
- 1 Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol, Eduardo Bastar, Centro. Historic church built by the Franciscans between 1715-1725.
- 2 Parroquia del Señor de Esquipulas, 2 de Abril, Centro. Oldest church in town, built by the Dominicans in the 17th century. It was occupied by military forces during the War for Independence. The church features an unusual arch housing three bells of different sizes over the central doorway. Beautiful well-maintained colonial era temple.
- 3 Parque Miguel Hidalgo (Zocalo), C. Gregorio Méndez 10, Centro. Peaceful town square with a central bandstand next to the town letters---great selfie spot! Strolling vendors offer toys and snacks, particularly on Sunday. Squirrels are unafraid of humans and will boldly demand their share of your snacks.
Do
- 1 Grutas de Coconá (Coconá Caves), Carr. a las Grutas. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. Large cave system that's lightly visited and very natural. The guided tour goes through eight large galleries (salons), some featuring natural pools of water. The caves are home to an endangered species of blind sardine. M$100 (guided tour, +tip).
- Balneario Las Garzas, Carr Teapa - Tacotalpa, ☏ +52 932 107 4422. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. Outdoor recreation area with pools and streams for river bathing, swimming pools available for M$20 additional. Cabins for rent. M$270 per car (5 people, M$50 each additional person).
Buy
Eat
A wise man once told me to "always eat dessert first." That's good advice anywhere, but particularly so in Teapa where empanadas de platano are a regional specilty. Like empanadas everywhere, you start with a pastry crust, then fill it with sliced bananas and sprinkle it with piloncillo (unrefined sugar cane extract). Fry the empanada as usual, then serve warm, topped with crema. By the way, Teapa grows more bananas than any other town in Tabasco (and the state accounts for 70% of Mexico's banana harvest). There is even a species of banana called the Tabasco banana, and of course, it's grown locally.
- 1 La Mancha, Av. Gregorio Méndez 119, Centro, ☏ +52 932 322 0431. Daily 07:00 - 22:00. Traditional restaurant with an indoor dining room and a large outdoor patio facing the Zocalo. Regional Tabasquena cuisine specializing in empanadas. Buffet available at some meals.
- 2 El Antiguo Jacalito, Av. Gregorio Méndez 118, Centro, ☏ +52 932 322 3006. Daily 06:00 - 23:00. Open-air sidewalk restaurant serving traditional Tabasquena regional cuisine. Full breakfast menu including hot cakes and brewed coffee (not Nescafe). M$200.
- 3 Cocina Doña Maritza, C. Carlos Ramos 133, Centro, ☏ +52 932 106 0121. W-M 08:00 - 18:30, closed Tu. Homecooked regional Tabasqueña cuisine. Large portions at reasonable prices.
Drink
Sleep
- 1 Hotel Quintero, Eduardo Bastar 108, Centro, ☏ +52 932 327 8329. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean, renovated hotel with small rooms and basic furnishings.
- 2 La Sultana, Gregorio Mendez, ☏ +52 932 322 1037. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Barebones budget hotel with minimal amenities.
- 3 Hotel Diamante, Calle Estrella, Josefa Córdova Matus 7, Centro, ☏ +52 932 688 1166. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:30. Comfortable mid-range hotel with clean rooms. Off-street parking available. On-site restaurant.
- 4 Hotel Villa Rica, Blvr Francisco Trujillo G 229, Centro, ☏ +52 932 322 0956. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Comfortable mid-range hotel. Close to grocery and convenience stores.