Arato Castle

Chikuma (千曲市 Chikuma-shi) is a city in Nagano. With a population of about 62,000, Chikuma is a small city by Japanese standards, and has urban areas mixed in among the forests, orchards and rice paddies. It's a great place to experience a different aspect of Japan than what you find in the big cities or on the regular tourist trail.

Understand

Chikuma City was formed in 2003 from the amalgamation of Koshoku City in its northern parts with the historic onsen towns of Togura and Kamiyamada in the south. This southern part of the city, known locally as Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, boasts numerous traditional ryokans (inns), ancient temples and shrines, seven public onsen bathhouses, a history of geisha entertainment that lives on today, and numerous natural features such as mountains, forest, hiking trails and picnic spots. In the west of the city, the areas known as Obasute and Yawata provide other historical and cultural attractions including the famous moon viewing rice paddies of Obasute and the Takemizuwake Shrine in Yawata. In the east of the city is the village of Mori, often called Anzu no Sato, or Apricot Village, because of the wealth of apricot trees that blossom profusely in spring.

Maximum daily temperatures average 15-20 °C in April, 25-31 °C in July, 18-21 °C in October, and 0-5 °C in January. Most years see 850 mm to 1100 mm of rain falling, with the winter months being the driest.

Tourist information

• 1 Chikuma City Tourism Association and Information Centre (千曲市総合観光会館), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-12-10, ☏ +81 26-276-2241, fax: +81 26-275-3678. 

The association has a trilingual guide site.

Get in

By train

Chikuma has one JR station at Obasute on the Shinonoi Line, and four stations on the Shinano Railway: Yashirokokomae, Yashiro, Chikuma and Togura.

• From Nagano, take the Shinano Railway from Nagano Station. There are trains about every 30 minutes. ¥330 to ¥390.
• From Matsumoto, take the JR Shinonoi line to Shinonoi then change to the Shinano Railway. About 1 hour, ¥2,300.
• From Tokyo, take the Nagano Shinkansen to Ueda (Nagano) and change to the Shinano Railway. The fare to Togura with an unreserved seat on the Shinkansen costs ¥6310 one way (about 2 hours)
• From Osaka or Kyoto, take the Tokaido Shinkansen to Nagoya, then the JR Chuo Line and JR Shinonoi lines to Shinonoi, then take the Shinano Railway. The fare from Osaka to Togura with unreserved seats is ¥10,630 (about 4 hours), and slightly less from Kyoto.
• From Niigata take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Takasaki, then the JR Nagano Shinkansen to Ueda (Nagano) and change to the Shinano Railway. The fare to Togura with unreserved seats is ¥10,740 (about 2½ hours). Alternatively, for ¥6,490, take the Shinkansen Max Toki to Nagaoka, the JR Limited Express to Naoetsu, the JR Shinetsu Line to Nagano, and then the Shinano Railway (4½ hours).
• From Kanazawa or Toyama take the JR Hokuriku line to Naoetsu, then the JR Shinetsu line to Nagano, then the Shinano Railway. The fare to Togura with unreserved seats is ¥6,960 (about 4½ hours), while from Toyama it is ¥5,590 (about 4 hours).

By bus

Chikuma doesn't have its own bus station per se, but does have three stops which are served by intercity buses.

• Yashiro (上信越道屋代), on the Joshinetsu Expressway, is the stop for buses from Tokyo. Alpico Bus company runs 15 buses per day between Shinjuku Station and Nagano, . 3 hr 20 min, ¥3,700 one way, ¥6,660 return.
• Naganodo Koshoku Interchange and Naganodo Obasute parking area are both stops on the Nagano Expressway for buses from elsewhere.

• From Kyoto, Alpico/Hankyu runs a night bus to Nagano . 7½ hours, ¥5,900 one way, ¥10,000 return.
• From Osaka, Alpico/Hankyu runs 2 buses per day to Nagano, . 7 hours (day bus) or 8½ hours (night bus). ¥6,500 one way, ¥11,000 return.
• From Matsumoto, Alpico/Meitetsu has 4 buses per day to Nagano . About 55 min.
• From Nagoya, Alpico Bus has 4 buses per day to Nagano 4 hr 40 min, ¥4,500 one way, ¥7,000 return.

By car

The nearest highway interchanges are Koshoku IC, at the north end of town, and Sakaki IC, a few kilometers south of town. Both are connected to the city via Route 18.

• From Tokyo, exit the Joushinetsu Expressway at Sakaki IC (total travel time 2½-3 hr)
• From Kyoto or Osaka, take the Meishin Expressway to Komaki Junction, then the Chuo Expressway to Okaya Junction, then follow the Nagano Expressway, exit at Koshoku IC. About 5 hr from Kyoto or 6 from Osaka.
• From Kanazawa, Toyama, or Niigata take the Hokuriku Expressway to Joetsu junction then follow the Joshinetsu Expressway to the Koshoku IC (3 hr from Niigata, 3½ hr from Toyama, 4½ hr from Kanazawa)
• From Nagoya, take the Chuo Expressway from Komaki Junction towards Tokyo. At the Okaya Junction, turn on to the Nagano Expressway, exit at Koshoku IC (total travel time 2-2½ hours)

Get around

By bus

Chikuma City Council runs an extensive local bus network connecting various parts of the city and stopping at all the railway stations. Most lines run less than once per hour, so be sure to pick up a schedule if you are going to be relying on them. The main routes are:

From Yashiro Station

• No. 1-2 : Chikuma Station, Togura Station, Kamiyamada, Yawata and Inariyama
• No. 3 : Anzu no Sato, Chikuma City Council Office (only some buses).
• No. 5 : JR Obasute Station via Inariyama and Yawata
• No. 6 : Inariyama and Oodahara

From Chikuma Station

• No. 4 : Yashiro Station, JR Obasute Station

From Chikuma City Council Togura branch

• No. 7 : Kamiyamada, Togura Station and JR Obasute Station
• No. 8 : Goka and Togura Station.
• No. 9 : Togura Station

By train

The Shinano Railway runs through the city along the east side of the Chikuma River. Stations from north to south are Yashirokokomae, Yashiro, Chikuma and Togura. Fares between these stations range from ¥190 to ¥240.

By bike

The Chikuma River valley is quite flat and is great for getting around on a bike. Bikes can be hired from Kamesei Ryokan. A cycle path goes along the west side of the river from the northern to the southern end of the city, providing excellent views of the river, various neighbourhoods, and the surrounding mountains. Plenty of other sights and attractions also are accessible by bike.

See

Torii at the Sarashina Shrine

Temples and shrines

• 1 Chourakuji Temple (長楽寺), Yawata 4984 (Follow route 77 north from Kamiyamada along the west side of the Chikuma River. Turn left at Yawatakamimachi (八幡上町) intersection onto the Sakaki-Koshoku Bypass (Route 18). Turn left at Sainomori (斉の森) intersection and follow the road up the hill to the temple), ☏ +81 26-273-3578. This temple has magnificent thatched roof buildings including a moon viewing temple used by the poet Bassho to write haiku. Behind the temple is the large rock Oba-iwa from which you can get great views across the valley. 
• 2 Zenko-ji Daihongan Branch Temple (善光寺大本願別院 Zenkou-ji Daihongan Betsuin), Kamiyamada 3510-7 (Take route 498 out of Togura Kamiyamada Onsen and drive about 5 min. up the hill. Or you can walk up in about 20 minutes), ☏ +81 26-275-1757. A sprawling complex on the hill above the Togura Kamiyamada Onsen with good views across the valley. 
• 3 Chishiki Temple (智識寺 Chishiki-ji) (Take Route 77 south from Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, turn right at Mezawa intersection. The temple is about 1 km up the road on the right), ☏ +81 26-275-1753. A quaint semi-rural temple with a Goddess image that is only shown in public once per year. 
• 4 Fukei Temple (普携寺), Kamiyamada 2454 (Starting at the Joyama Intersection on Route 77 in Kamiyamada, head south. Take the first on the right. After 250 m, turn left, then immediately right. The temple is about 100 m up the hill). This renovated temple has a beautifully crafted main gate and bell tower. A five 5-stone statue of Kannon, Goddess of Mercy and Bodhisattva of Compassion, gazes out over the Chikuma River valley from below the main gate. 
• 5 Takemizuwake Shrine (武水分神社 Takemizuwake Jinja), Yawata 3012 (From Kamiyamada, head north on route 77 along the west side of the river. Keep following 77 past the Yawatasuji intersection. The large stone torii for the shrine is right in the middle of the road. Drive through the torii and go straight ahead for the car park.). This large shrine complex has been holding the Daitousai festival (usually held on 15 September) for over 400 years, and the current buildings date from 1850. The grounds are resplendent with massive cedar and other trees, as well as numerous statues. 

Castles and tombs

• 6 Joyama Historic Park and Arato Castle (城山史跡公園荒砥城跡 Joyama Shiseki Koen Arato-jo ato) (take route 498 out of Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, about a 10-minute drive), ☏ +81 26-275-5180. The site of a castle used in the Warring States era (1500s). It was destroyed in the Battles of Kawanakajima, and restored in 1995. Fabulous views of the Chikuma River valley. 
• 7 Mori Shogunzuka Keyhole Tomb (森将軍塚古墳 Mori Shogun-zuka Kofun), Yashiro 29-1 (turn east at the Awasa intersection on route 18 and after about 2 km you will see the Agri Park on your left and the history museum and car park on your right), ☏ +81 26-274-3400. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00, closed M and the day after public holidays. This very interesting tomb of an ancient ruler is about 1600 years old, and was beautifully restored in the 1980s. This 100-m-long tomb is perched high on a hill just east of the Shinkansen line and opposite the Anzu no Sato Agri Park. At the base of the site is Shinano no Sato Historic Park, depicting a village from the same era, and the Nagano Prefectural History Museum. Both are worth a visit, although English information is minimal. Adults ¥200, middle school students and younger free. 

Museums

• Togura Kamiyamada Onsen Museum (戸倉上山田温泉資料館 Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen Shiryou-kan), Kamiyamda Onsen 4-1-8, 上山田温泉4-1-8, ☏ +81 26 275 1001. M-F 09:00-17:00; closed weekends and holidays. Free. 
• Shuzo Collection Sake Museum (酒造コレクション Shuzou Korekushon), Togura 1855-1 (the place with the big thatched roof on route 18 at the Togura Station intersection. From Togura Station, walk west 200 m), ☏ +81 26-275-2923. 09:00-17:00. Free. 
• Kurashikan Museum (蔵し館), Inariyama 931; 稲荷山931, ☏ +81 26-272-2726, fax: +81 26-272-2726. 09:00-17:00. Closed for repair until Jan 2027. A beautifully restored traditional building with a fascinating museum out the back. Adults ¥200; high school age ¥100; others free. 
• Furusato Cartoon Museum (ふる里漫画館), 2181-1 Inariyama; 稲荷山2181-1, ☏ +81 26-273-5639, mangakan@city.chikuma.nagano.jp. 09:00-16:30; closed Mondays and the day after national holidays. Focusing on the work of the political cartoonist Hidezo Kondo. Adults ¥200; high school age ¥100; others free. 
• 8 Nagano Prefectural Museum of History (長野県立歴史館), Yashiro 260-6; 屋代260-6 (On route 392 about 400m west of the Yokomachi intersection), ☏ +81 26-274-2000. 09:00-17:00, closed Mondays, days following national holiday and end of year period.. A comprehensive museum with a permanent display room, a special exhibitions room, a library reading and reference room, a visual media room, and a lecture hall. Adults ¥300. 

Blossoms

• Togura Juku Kitty Park (戸倉宿キティパーク) (Due east of the Togura railway station). This is a very pretty park that has a great display of exquisite white cherry blossoms in spring. It is also a good place for a picnic, and there is play equipment for the kids. Beautiful lawns and a nice view across the Chikuma River valley from the pavilion at the top of the park. 
• Agri-Park Apricot Village (あんずの里アグリパーク) (Turn east at the Awasa intersection on Route 18 and follow the signs), ☏ +81 26-273-4346. The best time to view the blossoms is usually in early April. Good viewing places include Sketch Park (スケッチパーク) and Uwadaira Viewpoint (上平展望台). 

Do

Festivals

• Togura Kamiyamada Onsen Summer Festival (戸倉上山田温泉夏祭り). 3rd week of July. Enjoy lion dances, drum performances, fireworks and the spectacle of portable shrines being paraded through the streets. 
• Togura Fireworks Festival. 1st week of August. Listen to the big booms echoing up and down the valley during the massive fireworks display and eat your fill from the numerous food stalls. 
• Jomon Festival. Last Sunday of October. See reenactments from prehistoric times at the Sarashina no Sato Ancient Experience Park. 

Onsen

Soak up the atmosphere and steam away your worries at one of the public bathhouses:

• 1 Kara Koro Footbath (カラコロの湯 Karakoro no Yu), Chuo-dori - Kamiyamada. You can soak your feet for free in this footbath onsen. 
• 2 Zuisho (瑞祥), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-chome 18-8 (Go north along Chuo-dori from the Culture Hall in Kamiyamada, and take the second on the left. Do a wriggle around Kamesei Ryokan and look for the brown building and carpark behind), ☏ +81 26-275-4321. Daily 09:00-01:00, weekend/holiday 'morning bath' hours 06:00-08:00. Although it is the most expensive public bathhouse in Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, it is also the most well equipped with the greatest variety of baths. The separate male and female areas each have a large indoor bath decorated with colourful natural boulders. The indoor area also has a sauna, jet baths, and a freshwater (cold) bath. The outdoor bath area has elegant gardens and contains baths you can lie down in, baths you can recline in, a stone slab with hot water trickling over it that is great for lying on at any time of the year, a large, sheltered bath, and two or three large ceramic tub baths. ¥650 for adults, ¥500 for morning bath; ¥350 for elementary school students, ¥250 for morning bath. 
• Kamenoyu (かめ乃湯), Kamiyamada Onsen 1-27-11. 上山田温泉1-27-11 (Travel north on Chuo-dori and turn left at the Central Hotel (中央ホテル). The onsen is one block down on the right.), ☏ +81 26-276-4664. 10AM-11PM, closed on the 16th of each month. The separate men's and women's baths have two indoor baths, as well as one large outdoor bath and a ceramic pot bath in a nicely treed area. If you like your onsens hot, this is the place for you. ¥350. 
• 3 Sanogawa Onsen Chikurin no Yu (佐野川竹林の湯), Kuwabara 1551; 桑原1551 (Between route 403 and the Sano River at Kuwabara), ☏ +81 26-272-6500. 10:00-21:00. A pleasant neighborhood onsen with 3 indoor baths of varying temperatures and large windows that catch the afternoon sun. From the baths you can access a zen-like outdoor garden area with benches, potted bamboo, and white gravel. Adults ¥250, children ¥120. 
• Hakuchoen Hot Springs (湯のさと ちくま 白鳥園), Togura 2254; 戸倉2254 (Just off the road that runs along the eastern levee of the Chikuma River, between Manyou Bridge anad Taishou Bridge intersections.), ☏ +81 26-275-0400. 10:30-21:00. New modern building completed in 2015. Several baths in different styles and a restaurant. Adults ¥600, children \250. 

Hiking

• Climb Mt Kamuriki (冠着山) (1252m). From the Kamiyamada Culture Hall intersection in Kamiyamada, drive west on Route 498 (which is called Manyou-dori in the town). Go up the steep hill past Zenkouji Daihankan Temple (善光寺大本館). When you get to the top of the saddle, ignore the road on the left, and veer to the right, towards Lake Hijiri (聖湖). After about another 500 m to 1 km there is a guide map and car park on the right. If you have 4WD, follow the track to the left of the guide map for another 500 m. Otherwise, hike up the track following the Mt Kamuriki (冠着山) signs. It is 1.1 km from the first car park, and takes about 20 minutes. If you take a torch, climb up in late afternoon, enjoy the sunset and night views far out across the Zenkouji plain to Nagano City and beyond, and climb down in the dark.
• Climb Mt Mitsumine (三峰山) (1131m) on the boundary of Chikuma City and Omi Village. To get there, take route 498 out of Kamiyamada. Follow the signs to Lake Hijiri (聖湖). After about 9 km you should see the lake. Turn right and follow the road along the south side of the lake. Park opposite the war museum. Look for a track going up the hill through the camp ground. It is a 15-minute hike to the top, where there is a lookout platform and you can reward yourself for your efforts with an ice cream from the cafe. Hike back down, or take the ropeway (chair lift), or, better still, buy a ticket and descend via the giant slide down the hill.
• Climb. Mt Gorigamine (五里ケ峰) (1094 m). Drive south on route 18 and take the first on the left after the Isobe Minami intersection. Cross the railway line, and take the first on the right. About half way up the hill is a car park. Follow the signs for Gorigamine. It's about a 2-hour climb to the top and involves an ascent of 600 m from the car park. On the way back down, follow a path to the left along the ridge to the ruins of Katsurao Castle (葛尾城) on Mt Katsurao (葛尾山). Keep you eyes open along the path for bits and pieces of the old fortifications. At the castle site are a few memorial stones and a pavilion for taking a rest. The views down to Chikuma to the north and west and Sakaki to the south are terrific. 

Cycling

• Hire bikes. And pick up a Hiking/Cycling brochure from Kamesei Ryokan and cycle along the Chikuma River cycle path. 
• Tengu Park Hill Climb. From the Imai intersection on route 18, follow the signs to Togura Juku Kitty Park (戸倉宿キテイーパーク). There is a serious hill climb up through the cherry trees, and past the giant goblin (Tengu) statue. At the top of the park is a pavilion with good views. Keep following the road up to the saddle, then ride down into Mori Apricot Village. Total distance is about 10 km and may take 1-1½ hours.
• Otawara Hill Climb. From the Inariyama (稲荷山) intersection on route 403, ride west and southwest until you get to the start of route 390 at Kuwabara (桑原). Turn right into route 390 and follow it up the hill until you reach Tabara Shrine (田原神社). Turn left at the shrine and head back down the hill. Turn left when you reach route 403 again to return to Inariyama. Total distance is 33 km and may take 3 to 4 hours.
• Obasute Mountain Loop Hill Climb. Start from the Yawata Tsuji intersection on route 77. Ride west on Route 340 until it joins route 403. Follow 403 to the left. Keep going on 403 past Lake Hijiri and all the way to the Honmachi (本町) intersection in Omi Village (麻績村). Turn left onto route 12, then left on to route 55. Stay on route 55 through the tunnel and down the hill to route 77 at Kamiyamada. Total distance is about 41 km and may take 3 or so hours.

Fruit picking

• 4 Agri-Park (あんずの里アグリパーク), Yashiro 515-1 (Opposite the Mori Shogunzuka Kofun Museum), ☏ +81 26-273-4346. Tu-Su 09:00-16:00; closed Mondays and days following national holidays. Strawberry picking from November to June. Nov-Mar ¥1500 for primary school age and above; cheaper Apr-Jun. 
• 5 Crown Farm (クラウン農園) (On route 55 past Chishikiji Temple), ☏ +81 90-9666-3096 (English), +81 90-9357-9565 (German). Pick apples from October to early December, grapes in September. 

Other fun stuff

• Shateki (射的), Various places in Kamiyamada. Evening. Shateki involves shooting at targets with a cork gun and trying to win prizes. Look for the 射的 signs in the narrow alleys of Kamiyamada. Various prices. 
• Hijiri Kogen Summer Mountain Lift and Skyrider (聖高原夏山リフト・スカイライダー), 聖高原 (Take route 498 out of Kamiyamada. Follow the signs to Lake Hijiri (聖湖). After about 9 km you should see the lake. Turn right and follow the road along the south side of the lake. Take a right hand turn and park near the base of the chair lift.), ☏ +81 273-67-2145. Mid April to the end of October; closed Thursdays except in the first two weeks of August. A stainless steel slide that you ride down on luge type contraptions. The course is 710 winding metres long and drops over a 100 m from top to bottom. The ticket price includes going up on the chair lift. Free for infants, but children under 9 years old need to accompanied by an adult. Awesome fun for everybody! Adults 1 ride - ¥500; 3 rides ¥1300; 6 rides ¥2500. Elementary and junior high aged children: 1 ride ¥300; 3 rides ¥800; 6 rides ¥1500. 

Buy

• 1 Jujiya (十字屋), Kamiyamada Onsen 1-60-10 (Near the western end of Shinseki Dori), ☏ +81 26-275-2740. 08:00-22:00. Wide range of Nagano souvenirs, and they also serve tea. 
• 2 Ooi Pharmacy (大井薬局), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-11-2 (On Chuo Dori, on the same block as the Nagano Bank), ☏ +81 26-275-1045. 08:00-19:30. English-speaking pharmacist that also has Chinese herbal medicine. 

Local specialties

• Sarashina Yaki Pottery - tinted blue with a pigment made from apple wood ash
• Obasute Masamune Sake - made from rice grown on the famous moon-reflecting rice terraces of Obasute Mountain
• Onsen Manju - a popular sweet bean paste pastry

Eat

• Benjarong 2 Restaurant (ベンジャロン2レストラン), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-16-29; 上山田温泉2-16-29 (From the Culture Hall intersection in Kamiyamada, go north on Chuo-dori. Take the second on the left, then the first on the right. The store is about 3/4 of the way down on the left), ☏ +81 26-275-2639. 19:00-06:00. Real Thai food made by real Thai chefs. Choose your spiciness level from 0 to 100%. Everything from the basic curry and pad Thai standards to the exotic. ¥1000 and up. 
• Cafe Jitenshaya (Cafe 自転車屋), Yashiro 1805 屋代1805 (Just west of the Takamicho (高見町) intersection in Yashiro), ☏ +81 26 273 5767. 11:00-22:00 closed Tuesdays. Funky Tex-Mex cafe serving drinks and meals, with an English-speaking proprietor who rode his bike across Australia and has the souvenirs to prove it. Tacos ¥500; chili con carne ¥650. 
• Daikoku Shokudo (大黒食堂), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-24-1; 上山田温泉2-24-1 (On Jouyama Dori opposite the Sanpuso hotel), ☏ +81 26-275-0768. 11:30-16:30. A local institution. Ramen fans come from far and wide for the noodles. The garlic sauce pork filet "nintare tonkatsu" is a local favourite. The small shop is often crowded, but is worth the wait. Ramen from ¥600. 
• Googies, Kamitokuma 237-2; 上徳間237-2 (Route 18 between Kashio and Imai intersections), ☏ +81 26 276 7188. 11:00-23:00. Family-friendly American-style diner using a lot of local ingredients, with a menu that has most items in English. Enjoy gazing at the great collection of 1950s memorabilia and if you are lucky, Grease will be playing on the big screen. ¥500 and up. 
• Hagoromo (羽衣), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-16-22; 上山田温泉2-16-22 (From the Culture Hall intersection in Kamiyamada, go north on Chuo-dori. Take the second on the left, then the second on the right. The store is about 60m down on the right), ☏ +81 26-275-1234. 18:00-24:00. Gourmet Japanese cuisine in a traditional setting. Sit at the counter and watch owner/chef Hata-san work his magic, or at one of the kotatsu tables with sunken floors. Daily specials from ¥800. 
• Kawana (河菜), Kamiyamada Onsen 3-8-10; 上山田温泉3-8-1 (One block south of Manyo Dori, half a block south of Koen Dori), ☏ +81 26-275-0194. 11:30-13:30 and 17:00-21:30, closed Wednesdays. Gourmet Japanese cuisine with reasonable set menu options (sets include salad, udon, pickles, side dish, fruit and rice). Good selection of wines, beer and sake. Lunch sets from ¥1050; dinner sets from ¥1260. 
• Kaya (萱), Togura 1855-1, 戸倉1855-1 (on route 18 in front of Togura station), ☏ +81 26 275 0033. M-Sa 11:00-20:00, Su 11:00-19:00. Authentic soba noodles in a 250-year-old thatched roof building. ¥850–2600. 
• La Foret (ラ・フォレ), Ojima 3121-1; 小島3121-1 (Go out of Yashiro station, turn right at Yashiro Station intersection, and look for the restaurant a few hundred metres up on the right.), ☏ +81 26 272 2067, postmaster@pizza-laforet.co.jp. Atmospheric pizzeria. Pizza from ¥1150. 
• Lapis Lazuli (ラピス・ラズリ), Kamiyamada Onsen 1-69-3; 上山田温泉 1-69-3 (In the Kamiyamada Hotel), ☏ +81 26-275-5575. 12:00-13:30 and 18:00-19:30; closed Mondays. Elegant French dining highlighting local ingredients. Extensive wine menu to match. Reservations required. Lunch set from ¥3675; dinner set from ¥6825. 
• Manzo (万蔵), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-17-5; 上山田温泉2-17-5 (From the Culture Hall intersection in Kamiyamada, go north on Chuo-dori. Take the second on the left, then the second on the right, then the second on the left. The store is on the right hand side of the lane), ☏ +81 26-276-2134. 18:00-23:00. Mutton from Nagano's sheep capital, Shinshu Shinmachi. Charcoal grilled on a Mongolian-style grill. There are only 2 tables, so reservations are essential. Genghis Khan ¥1000. 
• Kameya (亀屋), Kamiyamada Onsen 3-7-4; 上山田温泉3-7-4 (On Chuo Dori, just south of Kamiyamada Culture Hall intersection), ☏ +81 26-275-1631. 11:30-14:30 and 17:30-20:00; closed Tuesdays. Kameya is particular about their ramen, using only locally grown "Sarashina" flour for their hand-made noodles. Take you shoes off and relax in this all non-smoking restaurant. Ramen from ¥700. 
• Moridot (モーリ・ドット), Kamiyamada (In Kamiyamada, go north on Chuo-dori and turn right into Kamenoyu St at the Central Hotel (中央ホテル). The restaurant is a block and a half down on the right.), ☏ +81 26 275 1155. 11:30-14:00 and 18:00-22:00; closed Sundays. Serves pasta, as well as Japanese and Indian curries. Specialties include Apricot Curry using local fruit. The lunch set is enormous and great value at ¥800. ¥750 and up. 
• Pasta & Pudding Cocoro (ココロ), Kamiyamada Onsen 1-54-4; 上山田温泉1-54-4 (On the side street west of Kame no Yu), ☏ +81 26-275-1539. 11:30-13:30 and 17:30-21:00; closed Sundays. Stylish shop popular with ladies (Friday is Ladies' Night) and decorated with baseball memorabilia. 40 types of spaghetti and their signature pumpkin pudding. From ¥900. 
• Shichifuku (七福), Kamiyamada Onsen 1-56-3; 上山田温泉1-56-3 (On the side street west of Kame no Yu), ☏ +81 26-275-1559. 18:30-23:00, closed Sundays. "Oyaki" dumplings are Nagano's soul food. And Shichifuku is Kamiyamada's own little oyaki shop. Take Out is available but it is fun to eat in at this Showa-Retro restaurant. Dumplings from ¥150. 
• Silky (しるきー), 928 Inariyama Aramachi 稲荷山荒町928 (Just north of Kurashikan Museum (see above) in Inariyama), ☏ +81 26-273-0915. 11:00-19:00. Cosy okonomiyaki joint with a friendly owner who speaks a bit of English. Also serves udon and curry rice. From ¥600 for light meals. 
• Steak-1 (ステーキワン), Isobe 1349-1; 磯部1349-1 (On route 18, 2 km south of Togura Station), ☏ +81 26 276 2288. 11:00-23:00. Cowpoke style steak and hamburger house with an all you can eat and drink salad and drink bar included with main courses. Plenty of room out the front to park your horse. Lunch from ¥850; dinner from ¥1000. 
• Yakitori Tomoya (やきとり智家), Sakurado 356-1; 桜堂356-1 (One block south from the Chikuma City Koshokuy Branch Office intersection on Route 403), ☏ +81 26-272-5584. 17:30-24:00. At Tomoya, the "master" is friendly, funny and loves to have foreign customers. 

Drink

• Cafe Crossroad (Jakumaku) (Cafe クロスロード 寂蒔), Jakumaku 410-1 (On route 18, about 900m south of the Imojiya (いもじや) intersection.), ☏ +81 26-274-3485. 11:30-17:00. A pleasant coffee shop run by a local non-profit organisation. The menu is all in Japanese but the pictures are mostly obvious. They also sell light meals (e.g. pasta set ¥700) and desserts, as well as a small range of food stuffs made from local agricultural products and recycled materials (e.g. shoulder bags). Coffee from ¥350. 
• Ushiwaka (牛若), Kamiyamada Onsen 1-44-1; 上山田温泉1-44-1 (From Chuo Dori, turn left into Kamenoyu Street, then take the first on the left. Veer right at the fork, and look for the store on your right), ☏ +81 26-276-1982. 18:30-24:00, closed Sundays. Yakitori and drinks for people serious about yakitori (and drinks). Yo-chan, the man behind the counter, speaks decent English. You can try one of Nagano's specialties, raw horse meat, too (or not). ¥100 per stick. 
• Yuki (遊来), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-16-8; 山田温泉2-16-8 (n Kamiyamada, go north on Chuo-dori from the Kamiyamada Culture Hall, and take the second on the left. Take the first on the right and look for the izakaya about half way down the block.), ☏ +81 26-275-4419. 18:00-23:00 (-24:00 on weekends). A fashionable izakaya pub featuring "kushi" and "yakitori", various meat and vegetable creations on skewers, including home-made "tsukune" (minced chicken patties with special sauce) From ¥200. 
• 1 Yakitori Yumi's (やきとり裕味), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-18-22; 上山田温泉2-18-22 (From the Culture Hall intersection in Kamiyamada, go north on Chuo-dori. Take the second on the left, then the second on the right. The store is about 30 m down on the left, attached to the Zuishou Onsen building.), ☏ +81 26-276-1258. 18:00-22:00; closed Thursdays. Run by an ex-geisha who hasn't lost her ability to entertain. Her English is not so good, but it doesn't get in the way of having a great conversation. Beer and Yakotori course from ¥2000; Yakitori a la carte ¥300 (2 sticks). 

Sleep

• 1 Hotel Route Inn Chikuma Koushoku (ホテルルートインコート千曲更埴), Ojima 3151-1 (from the Koushoku interchange, travel south on route 18 for 2.5 km and turn left at the Kuiseke (杭瀬下) intersection), ☏ +81 26-273-0100. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Standard business hotel. Non-smoking rooms available. Substantial discounts for early booking. Singles ¥4900. 
• 2 Hotel Uzuraya (ホテルうづらや), Yawata 3067 (From Yashiro station, head west, across route 18 and follow route 403 for 1.3 km. Turn left at the Inariyama intersection onto route 77. The hotel is 1.9 km along, on the right, opposite the Takemizuwake Shrine (武水分神社)), ☏ +81 26-272-1008. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Japanese style rooms only. Japanese-style breakfast is ¥1050 extra. ¥6000 for one person, ¥11,400 for two people. 
• 3 Kamesei Ryokan (亀清旅館), Kamiyamada Onsen 2-15-1 (In Kamiyamada, go north on Chuo-dori from the Kamiyamada Culture Hall, and take the second on the left. The ryokan will be right in front of you.), ☏ +81 26-275-1032, fax: +81 26 276 1032, omotenashi@kamesei.jp. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. A great place to experience a traditional Japanese inn. There are English speaking staff, beautiful onsen baths, excellent meals, and elegant gardens. Free pick up and drop off at Togura or Obasute stations. ¥10,500 per night per adult including 2 meals; ¥5,500 per adult per night without meals; high school children 70%, primary and pre-schoolers, 50%. 
• 4 Kamiyamada Hotel (上山田ホテル), Kamiyamada Onsen 1-69-3 (In Chuo-dori in the middle of downtown Kamiyamada), ☏ +81 26 275 1005. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Splurge on a room with its own private outdoor onsen bath! Or admire the view from the big onsen bath on the 6th floor. ¥10,500–23,000 per person per night including two meals. 

Connect

The area code is 026.

Go next

• Yamanouchi - home of the famous hot-spring soaking snow monkeys.
• Sakaki
• Chikuhoku
• Ueda
• Joshinetsu Kogen National Park - which includes Shiga Kogen, Japan's largest ski resort, host of 1998 Nagano Winter Olympic Giant Slalom, with 21 interlinked ski fields and over 70 lifts.
• Matsumoto - home of the famous black castle, whose gardens and views are a delight in spring and autumn
• Hakuba - some of the best ski fields in Japan and great summer hiking along the spectacular northern alps
• Azumino - Spice up your life with a visit to one of Japan's most famous wasabi farms
• Nagano - Take a pilgrimage to Zenkoji Temple

Routes through Chikuma

Joetsu ← Nagano ←	N  S	→ Ueda-Sugadaira → Fujioka
END ←	N  S	→ Toyoshina (Azumino) → Matsumoto