Burgos
Burgos is a city in Castile and Leon in northern Spain, with a population of 175,000 in 2023. It's best known for its cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site and stopover on the Way of St. James pilgrimage trail to Santiago. The mediaeval hero El Cid was born near Burgos and is buried in the cathedral.
Understand
[edit]"Burgos" means a fortified village: when founded in 884 AD the Christian warlords of the north were pushing back the Moors, so the region was dotted with forts and castles hence "Castile". This was an independent kingdom from 1065 to 1230 before re-uniting with León, and "El Cid" is the best-known warrior of that period. Throughout the Middle Ages Burgos was a cathedral city and a stopover for pilgrims on the route to Santiago, and it still is.
Burgos withered from 1561 when power and patronage ebbed away to Madrid, and in later years all of Spain declined as its northern competitors rose, especially at sea. The industrial revolution largely passed Burgos by, but this means its old quarter has been preserved.
The city's importance for trade and pilgrimage is because it's on a plateau between the natural transport corridors of the Ebro valley, draining east to the Mediterranean near Tarragona, and the Douro (or Duero) valley, draining west to the Atlantic at Porto. Burgos stands at 856 m altitude so it has sunny days but is chilly at night.
Get in
[edit]
Burgos is 240 km north of Madrid and 160 km south of Bilbao and Santander.
By plane
[edit]Burgos-Villafria Airport (RGS IATA) lost its commercial flights in 2021 and now has only private aviation.
Madrid Barajas Airport (MAD IATA) is usually the most convenient, for its wide range of flights and good onward transport.
Bilbao, Santander and Valladolid Airports are closer but less convenient on both scores.
By train
[edit]1 Burgos-Rosa de Lima railway station, Av Príncipe de Asturias (5 km northeast of city centre), ☏ +34 641 224402. Open 24 hr. Opened in 2008, this is a large modern station with the usual facilities plus car hire. Trains from Madrid Chamartin run every two hours, the fastest in under two hours via Segovia and Valladolid. From Barcelona you usually change in Madrid, but one train a day is direct via Zaragoza and Pamplona, continuing west to León and Vigo. Four trains a day run from San Sebastian (for connections into France) taking 3 hours via Vitoria/Gasteiz. From the station, buses and taxis get you downtown. 
By bus
[edit]2 Burgos bus station is a shambolic place on C Miranda near the Museo de Burgos. Alsa buses run from Madrid Av America every hour or so, taking three hours via the airport. Three buses a day run from Barcelona, taking 8 hours via Zaragoza. Three per day take 3 hours from León.
By road
[edit]- From Santander take N623 and 627 or A231 and A67.
- From Madrid take A1.
- From Zaragoza and Cataluña take AP68. At Miranda de Ebro take AP1.
- From Portugal and Valladolid take A62.
- From France and the Basque Country take AP1.
- From Galicia and León take A231.
There are car rental facilities in the city.
Get around
[edit]Walking is the best option for the main attractions.
By bike Bicigrino do rentals with several pick-up points.
City buses cost less than €1, buy on boarding.
Taxis: a dozen operators serve the centre. Official taxis are white, with a reddish stripe on the front door. The tariff is displayed on top of the car: 1 is standard daytime rate, 2 is night, and 3 is on holidays such as Christmas Eve.
By car there isn't a park & ride. The most central car park is beneath Plaza Mayor. Enter from C Santander by the statue of El Cid just after turning from C Vitoria. In 2024 you pay €2.50 / hour, max €18.50 / day.
See
[edit]
- 1 Cathedral, Plaza Santa Maria, ☏ +34 947 204712. Daily 09:30-18:30. Splendid gothic cathedral, a stop along the Camino de Santiago and a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built from 13th to 16th century, highlights include the west facade with the Portal of St Mary and twin towers, the Door of the Coronería on the north transept, the Chapel del Condestable, and the 15th-century dome beneath which stands the altar and tomb of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar or "El Cid". Keep your cathedral ticket as it gets you into four other churches. Adult €11, child €9, pilgrim €5. 
- San Nicolás, Fernán González (50 m west of cathedral), ☏ +34 947 260529. M W-Sa 11:30-13:30, 17:30-17:30; Su 11:30-13:30. Built in 1408, this is the parish church for Burgos, and its main feature is the vast ornate limestone altar. It's named for St Nicolás, whose bones were carried off to Bari from his tomb in Myra, Turkey. He thereby became better known in the west, as Santa Claus. Adult €2.
- Arch of Fernán González stands on his name-sake street 100 m west of San Nicolás. González (910-970) was a warlord who unified Castile into a kingdom. The arch was erected in the 1580s where his palace once stood.
- 2 Plaza Mayor is the city's main square, laid out in its present form from the 1790s. It's traffic-free with lots of restaurants and cafes, but rather plain and lacking the wow factor of other great Spanish plazas. Beneath is a large underground car park.
- Voynich Museum and Museum of El Cid are in Travesia del Mercado, east side of Plaza Mayor. The original Voynich manuscript (named for the bookseller who acquired it in 1912) is at Yale University and this is a copy. It looks to be 15th-century Italian but no linguist or code-breaker can decipher its text or infer its meaning. The museum is open M-Sa 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00.
- Museum of Bookmaking is in the same building.
- 3 Statue of El Cid stands at the foot of C Santander. Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (1043 – 1099) was a warlord, by turns fighting for Moorish or Castilian forces, and capturing Valencia. In Spanish he became known as Campeador, master of the battlefield, and in Arabic as as-Sayyid hence El Cid. He died peacefully in Valencia in 1099 and his wife Jimena Díaz ruled there for another three years until the Moors recaptured it. She fled to Burgos taking his body, and this was inverted into the legend that his body (played by Charlton Heston in the film of 1961) was dressed in armour and rode out to scatter the Moors before Valencia, while his wife (played by Sophia Loren) cheered him on. A stylised modern statue also stands south of town at the intersection of A-1 and E-5, minus his warhorse Babieca, obviously not allowed on the autovía.
- 4 Casa del Cordón is a 15th-century mansion on Plaza de la Libertad. It was the residence of the Condestables, the fellow who drummed up armies for the King of Castile, literally "counted the stables" hence the modern word "constable". The king stayed occasionally, and in 1497 Christopher Columbus had a royal reception here after his second transatlantic expedition. You can admire the ornate exterior but there are no tours within.
- 5 San Gil Abad is a small 14th- to 15th-century church, with a plain exterior but rich within. It's open M-Sa 10:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00, Su 10:00-14:00 and the cathedral combi ticket gets you in. St Giles was a 7th-century saint from Arles, but everything written about his life is baloney, such as his origins in Athens.
- Monastery of San Francisco remains solely as a wall 200 m north of San Gil. It was founded in 1213 but wrecked in the Napoleonic Wars and demolished in 1836.
- 6 San Lesmes Abad is an 11th-century church on Plaza San Juan. Within is the tomb of the city's patron St Adelelmus (d 1100). He was an army officer from Loudon who joined the Benedictines, and in 1079 founded an abbey in Burgos; "Abad" means abbott. The church is open daily 08:30-13:00, 18:30-21:00.
- Marceliano Santamaría Museum is a small art museum in the ruin of San Juan Monastery, just south of San Lesmes. The ruin has been given a modern roof. It's open Tu-Sa 11:00-14:00, 17:00-21:00; Su 11:00-14:00
- Military Museum on Plaza de Alonso-Martínez is open M-F 10:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00; Sa 10:00-14:00. It's free.
- 7 San Esteban, San Esteban 1, ☏ +34 947 629024. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00; Su 10:00-14:00. Former church built circa 1300 and now a museum exhibiting old altars. Adult €2.
- CAB Caja de Burgos, Saldaña (just north of San Esteban), ☏ +34 947 256550. Tu-Sa 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00; Su 11:00-14:30. Contemporary art gallery with changing exhibitions. Free.
- 8 Castillo de Burgos is an empty shell in a public park, no interior access. It was built around 1200 and embellished around 1450. It later had little function until the Napoleonic Wars, when the French reinforced it and in 1812 defeated a siege by Wellington. But when he re-advanced rapidly next year the garrison feared being cut off and blew the place up to stop him using it. With the benefit of hindsight, it might have been better to evacuate the castle before blowing it up, but as it was, small pieces of 200 French soldiers and a nearby church flew across town.
- 9 Palacio de la Isla, Paseo de la Isla, ☏ +34 947 256090. M-Th 10:00-14:00. Mansion built in 1883 for a banker, and used as a summer residence by Franco, this is now a museum of Spanish literature. Free.
- 10 Museum of Human Evolution, Pl Sierra de Atapuerca, ☏ +34 947 421000. Tu-F 10:00-14:30, 16:30-20:00; Sa 10:00-20:00; Su 10:00-15:00. Story of human evolution, centred on findings in the hills of Atapuerca 16 km east where four hominid species dwelt, going back 800,000 years. Excavations continue at Atapuerca but there's not much to see there. The museum was built in 2010 on a gap site, formerly a Dominican convent. Adult €6, conc €4.
- Museum of Burgos, Miranda 13 (200 m west of Museum of Human Evolution), ☏ +34 947 265875. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 16:00-19:00; Su 10:00-14:00. Covering city heritage from the prehistoric Atapuerca era to modern times. It's within the Renaissance House of Íñigo Angulo. Adult €1.
- 11 Monastery of Huelgas Reales, Pl Compás, ☏ +34 947 206045. Tu-Sa 10:00-13:00, 16:00-17:30; Su 10:30-14:00. Founded in 1187 and still an active Cistercian convent, with some three dozen nuns. "Huelga" in this context means "on fallow land": it governed 50 nearby villages, and was a royal burial place and wedding venue. Visit by one-hour guided tour. Adult €8.
- 12 Cartuja de Miraflores, Fuentes Blancas (3 km southeast of city), ☏ +34 636 998789. Daily 09:30-18:30. Ornate Carthusian monastery, built as a palace in 1401 then converted, and re-built after a fire in 1452. It's still active. Free.
- 13 Monastery of San Pedro de Cardena is a religious community, no tours. It was the resting place of El Cid before he was re-interred in Burgos Cathedral, but its modern fame is for its role in psychiatric research. Antonio Vallejo-Nájera (1889-1960) dreamed up theories to reconcile Spanish catholicism with Nazi beliefs, and experimented on left-wing prisoners being held near the monastery. He reckoned there was an atavistic "red gene" impelling some people to Marxism, that must be stamped out. As a result, 30,000 children were abducted to be placed with loyal nationalist families (though better still if they perished) and he was showered with honours by the Franco regime.
- A total solar eclipse on Wednesday 12 Aug 2026, starting at 20:28 and lasting two minutes. The chances of a clear sky are 70%, but you need to find a spot with a clear view to the northwest horizon, where the sun will be setting.
Do
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- Teatro Principal is on Plaza Mío Cid next to the statue of El Cid.
- La Rúa concert hall is at Reyes Católicos 26.
- Football: Burgos CF play soccer in Segunda División, the second tier. Their home ground Estadio El Plantío (capacity 12,600) is 1 km east of city centre.
- Coliseum Burgos just east of the football ground is the former bull ring, now a multi-sports stadium.
- Swimming pool: San Agustín is the most central, at Plaza Dr Emilio Giménez Heras, open M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 10:00-14:00.
- Fórum Evolución is a conference and performance venue next to the Museum of Human Evolution.
- Sala Hangar south of the river at San Pedro y San Felices 56 is a former locomotive depot, and is now a live music venue.
- The Way of St. James (El Camino de Santiago) is a long-distance pilgrimage trail from several European cathedral cities to Santiago de Compostela. As Burgos is near the finish, the major routes have converged, so everyone is heading west across the region via Logroño and Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos, and continuing via León.
Buy
[edit]- Supermarkets: Alcampo has a branch at Calzadas 15 (M-Sa 09:00-21:30), another at Clunia 13 (daily 06:00-00:00) and two others further out.
- Markets: Mercado Sur is an indoor market hall at Miranda 10, and Mercado Norte is at Radio Popular 21, both open M-Sa 08:00-15:00.
Eat
[edit]- La Mejillonera, Paloma 33 (50 m east of cathedral), ☏ +34 947 202134. Daily 11:30-15:00, 18:30-23:00. No frills tapas bar, the mussels are a favourite.
- Cervecería Morito, Diego Porcellos 1 (50 m west of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 947 267555. Daily 13:00-15:30, 19:00-23:00. Trad tapas bar, good selection and portions.
- Comidilla de San Lorenzo at San Lorenzo 29 gets lukewarm reviews. It's open Tu-Su 12:00-16:00, 19:00-01:30.
- La Parilla del Royal is a grill at Plaza Huerto del Rey 18, open daily 12:30-00:00.
- Casa Ojeda, Vitoria 5 (50 m east of El Cid statue), ☏ +34 947 209052. Su Tu W 13:00-16:00; Th-Sa 13:00-16:00, 20:30-23:00. Upmarket dining in a wood-panelled restaurant of 1912.
- La Favorita, Avellanos 8 (block south of San Gil), ☏ +34 947 205949. M Tu Th F 11:00-00:00, Sa Su 12:00-00:00. Lively tapas bar.
- 1 Masala, Plaza Francisco Sarmiento 1, ☏ +34 640 249455, info@masalanatural.es. Tu-F 09:30-20:30, Sa 09:30-15:30. Vegan restaurant attached to an organic grocery store.
Drink
[edit]- Bars: lots and lots, such as the strip along Huerto del Rey northeast of the cathedral.
- Wine: Burgos is near wine-growing regions such as Rioja, with several vineyards you can visit.
Sleep
[edit]
- Crisol Mesón del Cid, Fernán González 8 (50 m west of cathedral), ☏ +34 947 208715. Very central, some rooms have cathedral view. B&B double €100.
- 1 Hotel Cordón, La Puebla 6, ☏ +34 947 265000. Inexpensive central hotel, weak a/c and wifi. B&B double €100.
- Hotel Cuéntame La Puebla, La Puebla 20 (50 m east of Hotel Cordón), ☏ +34 947 250900. Clean central hotel, some street noise. B&B double €90.
- 2 Hotel Rice Palacio de los Blasones, Fernán González 10, ☏ +34 947 271000. Clean and central chain hotel, creaky old building and the car park is a tight squeeze. B&B double €100.
- 3 Hotel Rice Reyes Católicos, Av Reyes Católicos 30, ☏ +34 947 222300. Simple chain hotel 1.5 northeast of old centre. B&B double €90.
- 4 Hotel Norte y Londres, Pl Alonso-Martínez 10, ☏ +34 947 264125. Acceptable mid-price hotel, but this charming old building is starting to look decrepit. B&B double €100.
- 5 Hotel Jacobeo, San Juan 24, ☏ +34 947 260102. Clean but basic, tiny rooms. B&B double €90.
- 6 NH Palacio de Burgos, Merced 13, ☏ +34 947 479900. Beautiful Gothic building on the river bank, overlooking the cathedral. Dog-friendly. B&B double €130.
Connect
[edit]As of Oct 2024, Burgos and its approach roads have 5G from all Spanish carriers.
Go next
[edit]- Logroño east is another cathedral city on the pilgrimage route, but is better known as a centre for Rioja wine.
- Vitoria-Gasteiz northeast is at the heart of the Spanish Basque country.
- Bilbao was a steel town, revitalised by its Guggenheim museum.
- Santander has almost as many churches as it has beaches.
- León is the next cathedral city west on the pilgrimage route.
- Valladolid south is industrial but with several museums and old churches.
| Routes through Burgos |
merges with  ← |
SW  NE |
→ Vitoria-Gasteiz → Bilbao  |
| Madrid ← Aranda de Duero ← |
S  N |
→ merges with  |
| León ← Tardajos ← | w  E |
→ San Juan de Ortega → Logroño |