Jalpa de Cánovas
Jalpa de Cánovas is a small town in the Bajio region of central Mexico. It's one of the smallest towns to be recognized as a Pueblo Magico, though it does indeed offer considerable attractions for the historical and cultural traveler. It is a scenic colonial town that's a great place for peaceful weekend getaways.
Understand
[edit]The town was founded by Juan Villaseñor in 1542 when he was granted a block of land consisting of 7,365 hectares. Villaseñor used his land grant to start a hacienda that he ran as a cattle and horse ranch. In 1900, President Porfirio Diaz attended his goddaughter's wedding at the hacienda, gifting her with the honor of having the first hacienda with electricity (along with 30 years free of light bills).
Jalpa de Canovas has a number of fruit and nut orchards rasing quince, walnuts, and grapes.
The town itself is really little more than a village of 670 residents (2020).
Get in
[edit]The closest airport to Jalpa de Canovas is Bajio International Airport (BJX IATA), on the highway between Leon and Guanajuato.
By bus
[edit]From Leon, Flecha Amarilla operates buses every 30 minutes to Cd. Manuel Doblado with fares starting at M$60 for the 2½-hour ride (2024). Once you arrive in Manuel Doblado, use a taxi for the 15-minute ride to Jalpa de Canovas.
Get around
[edit]
Jalpa is a very small town and is easily navigated on foot, or better yet, by bicycle, which puts the presas within a few minutes ride of the main town. You'll probably want to use a taxi (or moto-taxi) for more distant places, like Canada de Negros.
See
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- 1 Templo del Señor de la Misericordia (Temple of the Lord of Mercy), El Tepatate. Unusual church built in 1908 in a neo-gothic style using red bricks. The church is famous for its imposing tall bell tower.
- 2 Hacienda Jalpa, Carr. Manuel Doblado - Purísima de Bustos 7737. Historic hacienda dating from 1549, though the rooms inside the property contain period furnishings from the Porfiriato era of the late 19th century. The on-site museum describes the story of the property and its role in the economic development of the local region. M$60 (adult).
- 3 Museo Luis Cabrera, Carr. Manuel Doblado - Purísima de Bustos 7737, ☏ +52 476 123 7329. Small museum focusing on regional history. Full of artifacts, documents, portraits that contribute to a view of the town's colorful history. M$20.
- 4 Molino de Harina (Old Flour Mill), El Tepatate. Abandoned 17th-century flour mill that once supplied flour to much of Mexico. Today, the place is largely in ruins with collapsed roofs and piles of rubble, though the walls and structure are mostly intact. Great photo op spots for historical-themed photos.
Do
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- 1 Parque Cañada de Negros, Sta. Cecilia 219, Cañada de Negros. Eco park that rents small cabins for overnight stays (firewood provided). Lake with catch-and-release fishing. Petting zoo features llamas and deer. M$50 (adult).
- 2 Presa Santa Efigenia (Presa Nueva). Dam and reservoir about 2 km from town. There is a tourist museum open only on Sunday. Learn about the "woman of stone" (mujer de piedra).
- 3 Plaza de Toros de Jalpa de Canovas (Bullring), Carr Púrisima de Bustos-Manuel Doblado 7737, San Andrés. Small bullring that hosts occasional bullfights or rodeo events..
Festivals
[edit]- Judea - Holy week (Easter) - Guanajuato's famous passion play has been celebrated for more than 150 years. It is a re-enactment of one part of the Passion of Christ in which Judas Iscariot betrays Jesus by helping the Romans to apprehend him.
- Feast of Our Lord of Mercy (el Señor de la Misericordia) - Last week in October. The annual feast for the town's patron saint is a lively festival that is the largest social event of the year. Features include parades, a carnival, religious events, food, drink, regional music and dance, and of course, seemingly endless vendors serving tempting food and drink.
Buy
[edit]Eat
[edit]- 1 Restaurant Cuquita, San Andres, ☏ +52 476 124 9707. M-Th 08:00 - 14:00, F-Sa 08:00 - 20:00, Su 08:00 - 18:00. Small, local restaurant with regional Mexican cuisine.
- 2 Las Galondrinas, Camino viejo a Guadalupe, Calle Dos Ríos, No. 104, ☏ +52 476 709 3437. W-Su 09:00 - 19:00, closed M-Tu. Classy outdoor patio restaurant with a wide range of traditional Mexican and regional dishes. Family friendly with a small play area for children.
- 3 Pergola, Calle Luis Long # 7 (next to Jardin Principal), ☏ +52 553 977 2113. M-F 10:00 - 18:00, Sa 09:00 - 22:00, Su 09:00 - 19:00. Classy restaurant with a colonial style indoor dining room and an expansive outdoor terrace surrounded by carefully manicured gardens. Chilaquiles are good at breakfast and served in various ways. Dinner portions are generous and the chamorro is recommended.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]Mid-range
[edit]- 1 La Galera, Purísima del Rincón, ☏ +52 555 245 0329. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 15:00. Historic property in an old hacienda set on the shores of a small lake. Beutiful modern furnishings, comfortable spacious rooms. On-site restaurant serving food cooked over mesquite fires with a wood-fired pizza oven. A quiet, relaxing country escape. Pet friendly.
Splurge
[edit]- 2 Hacienda Cañada de Negros, Carretera Purísima a Manuel Doblado Km. 12, Cañada de Negros, ☏ +52 476 757 9070. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 15:00. Historic property that operates the renovated 400-year-old hacienda as an upscale boutique hotel and spa. A meals package is available and although the menu is limited, the regional Guanajuato cuisine is authentic and delicious. Sunday mornings feature an extensive brunch buffet. A small on-site mezcal distillery produces their own "Don Nacho", which you can sample or buy a bottle to take home. The hotel features 12 very well furnished rooms with WiFi as well as a swimming pool and a temazcal (indigenous style spa). A unique property worth the splurge.