Tuxtla Gutiérrez
Tuxtla Gutiérrez, usually just called Tuxtla, is the capital of Chiapas, and a busy government, commercial and services-oriented city. It is not a tourist attraction, but normal Mexican city, also acting as a transportation hub for tourists coming into the state due to its major airport and a bus terminal.
Understand
[edit]
Tuxtla, a tropical city of 700,000 people (2015), is the economic powerhouse and biggest city of Chiapas. It is a transportation hub for the entire region which also hosts one of the main airports of Chiapas. Tuxtla has had one of the fastest growing rates in Mexico since the 1970s. As most of the city was constructed during the boom that began in the 1970s, its quite livable for residents but isn't oriented around tourism. However, its outskirts do hold some locations of interest to visitors, such as the viewpoints over the Cañón del Sumidero just outside town to the north, and the famous ZooMat natural-style zoo, showcasing local wild animal species. Visitors who want a more quaint area can explore nearby Chiapa de Corzo, which does have a colonial downtown area, strong regional traditions, and a 3,000 year history dating back to the Olmecs.
Climate
[edit]With its relatively low altitude, the area has a very hot and relatively humid climate. Except for a rainy and dry season (summer-fall and winter-spring respectively) there is little variation in the climate during the year, except between dry season (Oct-Apr) and rainy season (May-Sep). Air conditioning is uncommon as most homes and offices use fans and most rooms and offices open into streets or courtyards, though as of 2024 many hostels and hotels do have it. Most businesses close in the late afternoon from 14:00-16:30 or 17:00 when it can get hot. Although it is not on the coast, it is close enough that hurricanes and tropical storms can affect it at time.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]- 1 Tuxtla Gutiérrez International Airport (TGZ IATA Angel Albino Corzo Airport) (30 km outside of the city).
A taxi to downtown Tuxtla costs US$20. The taxis are part of a taxi cartel put together by the government. You will have to buy a ticket for the taxi in the airport.
Though colectivos do not come up to the airport itself, they pass by it on a road a short walk from the parking lot and cost considerably less than a taxi.
There are several direct buses from the airport to San Cristóbal de las Casas (1 hr 15 min, M$218 as of November 2016.)
Most direct flights go to Mexico City (MEX). Tuxtla is served by Aeromexico, Volaris, and VivaAerobus.
By car
[edit]- From San Cristobal, there is a toll and a toll-free road. The toll road can be a scenic drive while climbing down from San Cristóbal but check in advance whether the road is blocked by protesters during the daytime since you might otherwise spend the entire day waiting for the toll booth at the bottom to open.
By bus
[edit]- From San Cristobal, buses of all kinds go very frequently (1 hr, from M$50,) most of them to the terminal in front of Mercado de los Ancianos. Note that the highway which connects the two cities is very often blocked by groups protesting. Usually, the old toll-free road is still serviced by a few buses then but takes substantially longer. It is best to ask in advance whether any bloqueos are expected if you plan on catching a flight in Tuxtla. OCC buses from the big bus terminal at Plaza Sol are similarly-priced to the local transport and may be more comfortable (more reliably air-conditioned).
Get around
[edit]
By taxi
[edit]As in most Mexican cities, taxis are readily available, and cheap by North American or European standards.
By colectivo
[edit]The city has an extensive network of "colectivos" (white vans acting as buses) that run fixed routes, generally stopping only at designated stops marked by street pullouts and/or bus-shelter canopies, which are located every two or three blocks. As of April 2024, they seem to all cost 8 pesos per ride. Though the system is complex, it can be quite easy to use once you get the hang of it. Every colectivo is associated with a route number, marked on the outside as "Ruta ___", not to be confused with the often larger, longer operator registration number. You can look up the exact path of any numbered route on the Tuxmapa website, with the outbound path marked in green and the inbound in purple if they're different. The map doesn't show the exact locations of the stops, but they're usually easy to find. To figure out which routes go where you want (without looking through them one by one on the map), just as a local which route number goes where you want to go. They'll often be able to name a few off the top of their head. When you want to get off, say "La parada, por favor" for the driver to drop you at the next designated stop.
By bus
[edit]Avenida Central (which cuts through the city from west to east) and some other major roads may be serviced by the faster conejobus (not verified recently).
See
[edit]- 1 Miradores Cañón del Sumidero. Closed Tuesdays. Though more tourists visit here as part of a tour from San Cristóbal de las Casas, the viewpoints over the top of the canyon are actually accessed from Tuxtla, and are convenient to visit from the city center if you have your own car. For more info on the canyon, see the Cañón del Sumidero article. Though the entrance (marked on the map in this article) is accessible by colectivo Route 69, the actual viewpoints are many kilometers up the road through the national park, and the staff at the tollbooth won't let you in without a car except during "athlete" hours from 6-8 in the morning. It's possible to tour all the viewpoints by taxi for 500 pesos (total per car), but keep in mind that you may get the same thing for cheaper if you take a tour through a tour agency that also includes the boat trip through the canyon. 60 pesos (included with your bracelet if you've taken a boat tour the same day).
- 2 ZooMat, Calle Señor del Pozo 242, ☏ +52 961 639 2856. Tu-Sa 08:30-16:30, Su 08:30-18:00, closed M. A spacious zoo which hosts only animals that can be found in the region naturally. In fact many of the animals roam the area freely and are not kept in cages. Don't miss the Museo del Cocodrilo while you're here.
- 3 Parque Central. The city's central plaza, surrounded by the cathedral, state government buildings, and some cheap food options that stay open late.
- 4 Parque de la Marimba. A lively alameda-style park where they have regular marimba concerts. The concerts start at about 6 and go on until late.
- 5 Museo de la Marimba, Calle 9a Pte, ☏ +52 961 600 0174. 10:00-21:00 daily. Museum of the Marimba, right beside the Parque de la Marimba.
- 6 St. Mark's Cathedral, Av. Central Ote, ☏ +52 961 612 0939. Another Catholic church, this one with notable stained glass and a painting. Lots of pigeons when you're hanging around the bell tower outside.
- 7 Palacio de Gobierno. The state government buildings.
- 8 Museo del Café de Chiapas, Calle 2a. Ote. Nte. 236, ☏ +52 961 611 1478. M-Sa 09:00-17:00, closed Su. A museum about the history of coffee along with various art and coffee sampling. ~M$30.
- 9 Museo Chiapas de Ciencia y Tecnología. COCYTECH, Calz. Cerro Hueco 3000, ☏ +52 961 639 2731. Tu-Su 10:00-17:00, closed M. A museum for all of the science lovers out there. Anthropological and zoological exhibits, etc.
- 10 Glorioso Cristo de Chiapas, Segunda Pte. Nte (it's about 11 km from town: go south on hwy 133, then west on Central Ote. and north on Segunda Pte. Nte. Or take the colectivo to Copoya. The colectivo departs from Terminal Copoya located at Av. 8a Sur Pte, between Calle Primera Pte Sur and Calle Central-Sur. It runs approx. every 15 minutes and costs M$8 (Feb 2023). Get off at the crossroad of Segunda Nte Pte and Segunda Pte Nte (250 meters south from the entrance to Cristo, the colectivo always stops there). When you go back, get on the colectivo at the same place - the colectivo makes a turn and takes you back to Tuxtla). daily 10:00-20:00. If you want some stellar views of Tuxtla Gutierrez, this is a great place to get them. Also has some stations of the cross stuff, and a Jesus silhouette within the main cross statue itself. M$10-15 for parking.
- 11 Museo de Paleontología Eliseo Palacios Aguilera, Norte Oriente 11A, ☏ +52 961 600 0254. Tu-F 10:00-17:00, Sa Su 11:00-17:00,. Paleontology exhibits specific to Chiapas. Tuesdays free?
- 12 Regional Museum of Chiapas (Located in: Instituto de Antropología e Historia). Tu-Su 09:00-18:00, closed M. Museum dealing with MesoAmerican history and history following the Spanish conquest in the state of Chiapas.
- 13 Faustino Miranda Botanical Garden, Av, 5a. Avenida Nte, ☏ +52 961 612 3622. Tu-Su 09:00-15:30, closed M. A straight-up jungle right inside the city. Go for the forest experience, not for manicured flower beds. 10 pesos.
- 14 Mirador Los Amorosos. Another viewpoint over the city.
- 15 Parque Bicentenario, Av 1a. Sur Pte 1336. Popular city park with replica of a Mayan tower on a hill from which you can look around at the city.
- 16 Joyyo Mayu, Contra esquina del Reloj Floral. daily 06:00-20:00. Park with lots of greenery and ponds (ducks, fish, etc), across from a flower clock.
- 17 Cascada El Chorreadero (on the way to San Cristobal de las Casas, look for turnoff on north side of Hwy 190 about 20 km from center of Tuxtla (best use Google Maps or something)), ☏ +52 961 107 3880. daily 08:00-18:30. A waterfall of "underground river" origin emanating from a grotto/cave in a canyon. Picturesque but may need to inquire as to condition since runs low at times. May be possible to swim in pool below.
Do
[edit]- 1 Convivencia Infantil, Calzada al sumidero, ☏ +52 961 387 4178. daily 08:00-21:00, closed M. Games, rides (e.g. go-karts), replicas of pyramids and dinosaurs, etc.
- 2 Alberca Reserva Cerro Hueco, Calle Marcelino Álvarez 420 (next to the Science and Tech Museum). daily 09:00-17:00, except Tu. Nature preserve and swimming pool. (May want to take a look at the color of the water before jumping in.).
- Aéreo Park, At Joyyo Mayu Park. High ropes course with informational signs about the different trees as you go along.
Buy
[edit]Things in Tuxtla are very reasonably cheap and affordable in the fact that it was set for the poor living standards of the indigenous that live there. Despite that, it is a very modern city with lots to do and see. There are plenty of shopping malls to shop in and items are very cheap.
- 1 Plaza Las Américas, ☏ +52 962 028 2582. daily 09:00-23:00. For when you need some mall time; has a theater also.
- 2 Plaza Ámbar, Carr. Panamericana a Chiapa de Corzo 651. M-Th 12:00-23:00, F-Su 08:00-23:00. Another mall.
- 3 Central de Abastos, Avenida la Floresta 52, ☏ +52 281 210 8857. Like a wholesale open market. May be of limited interest.
Eat
[edit]- Mole — A type of sauce from the south. Ordering a 'mole' will normally get you chicken and rice smothered in this sauce, sometimes tortillas are served underneath, sometimes they're given separate.
Budget
[edit]All these are in the city center:
- 1 Hostal tres central, ☏ +52 961 611 3674. Straightforward hostel with a dining terrace.
- 2 El Pozol, Calle Tercera Ote. Sur 379.
- 3 Restaurante Candilejas, Sexta Pte. Nte. 667.
- 4 Gorditas Don Rafita, Av 1a. Sur Pte 185.
- 5 Fonda El Jardín Los Chilaquiles, Calle Segunda Pte. Sur 627.
- 6 La Casa del Sazón Restaurante & para Llevar, Av 2a. Sur Pte 331.
- 7 Doña Noli, Av 2a. Sur Pte 816.
Mid-range
[edit]Splurge
[edit]Drink
[edit]- Pozol — A choclate/maize drink typical to Chiapas, not to be confused with Pozole, a type of stew/soup from further north.
Sleep
[edit]Some fair accommodations to be had here as well as in Chiapa de Corzo just to the southeast which lies along the Rio Grijalva.
Budget
[edit]- 1 Hostal Tres Central, Central Norte (just a block or two north of Parque Central), ☏ +52 961 611 3674. A business-style hostel, clean and comfortable but not geared towards meeting people. Tiny but functional kitchen. The only common areas are the lobby and the rooftop, which opens to the public as a bar from 5pm to midnight. Decent wifi, and a/c only at nighttime in the dorms (though it stays relatively cool during the day). M$180 for a dorm bed.
- 2 Hostal Casa de Zeferina, Calle Cuarta Pte. Nte. 517, ☏ +52 961 316 4324. Clean, quiet, has wifi and a/c, homey, comfortable beds, recommended especially if you like pink colors and huskies (because they are pet-friendly). M$298.
- 3 Hotel Parque Marimba, Av 1a. Sur Pte 1059, Centro, ☏ +52 961 390 0110. This one is very chic with bright colored blankets and walls. You're going to think you're in a gelato shop possibly. It has wifi and a/c, hot water, and breakfast, and a very sleek looking exterior. M$574.
- 4 Hotel "Madrid", Sexta Pte. Nte. 175, ☏ +52 961 613 3083. This is another modern looking one, at least on the exterior. And it includes a hearty breakfast with some papayas and other fruits in the morning, as well as wifi and a/c. Plentiful hot water. M$553.
Mid-range
[edit]- 5 Fiesta Inn Tuxtla Fashion Mall, Panamericana 651 C, El Retiro, 29096 (in Ambar Fashion Mall.), ☏ +52 961 617 8050. This one is for when you really want to live it up on the town, maybe celebrate your honeymoon or just stay in a grand hotel. It has an outdoor pool, hot tub, gym, restaurant/bar, and breakfast buffet, along with wifi and a/c, airport shuttle, and bus center. If you're not acrophobic, try to get a room high up so that you can get views of the surrounding Chiapas mountain scenery. If you get bored, there's a Cinemex in the attached mall. M$787.
Splurge
[edit]- 6 Hilton Garden Inn, Boulevard Belisario Dominguez, De Los Castillos 1641, ☏ +52 961 617 1800. Pool, restaurant/bar, breakfast, all the amenities you'd expect with this chain. Where else could you stay at a Hilton Garden Inn for like US$40? M$851.
Connect
[edit]Stay safe
[edit]Cope
[edit]Go next
[edit]- Chiapa de Corzo - Colonial town, where boat access to Cañón del Sumidero is, also the castle on the Chiapas crest.
- Palenque - Ancient city, about 6 hours away, close to the Agua Azul and Misol Ha waterfalls
- Bonampak - Ancient city famous for its colorful murals
- Comitán - Charming colonial city, about 3 hours away, go here to get to the Lagunas de Montebello National Park
- San Cristóbal de las Casas - Beautiful colonial city with lots of indigenous artisanship. Lots of foreigners and nice cafés.
- San Juan Chamula - 10 km from San Cristóbal, a Tsotsil indigenous village.
- Campeche - 11 hours away by bus.
- La Realidad - A Zapatista caracol or autonomous village, can be difficult to get to. Zapatista buses leave from Las Margaritas every day at 7am.
- Tapachula - City about five hours from Tuxtla, go here to get buses to Guatemala City.