Mocoa is the capital of the Putumayo department in southern Colombia.

Understand

Situated just east of the Andes and on multiple bus routes, Mocoa is a gateway to the western Colombian Amazon.

Get in

By bus

Accessible by bus from Pitalito/San Agustín (COP$30,000/40,000), Neiva (COP$60-70,000, in 2022), and Pasto (COP$50,000) as well as from Ecuador via the San Miguel border crossing.

By plane

There is an airport in Villagarzón and a bigger airport in Puerto Asís. From the Villagarzón airport, the easiest way to get to Mocoa or intermediate points is to take a taxi or hitch a ride to the nearby Terminal de Transporte, where you can get a seat in the back of a 4x4 that goes to the Mocoa terminal (February 2023: approximately COP$5000).

Get around

The town is small enough to explore on foot. The main square and center of the city are uphill from the bus station. There is a small tourism office on the main square, although it operates with limited hours. For other nearby destinations, there are colectivos every few minutes on the main roads. If you are alone and look like a traveler, hitchhiking short distances can be quite easy, mainly on motorcycles. 4x4 collectivos and public buses are also good options if you are on the main road.

See

• El fin del mundo (walk, hitchhike, or take a colectivo down the road to Villagarzón, there is a sign on the left-hand side of the road). The most popular destination near Mocoa: a big waterfall in the jungle. The highlight is looking over the edge to the pool far below, as well as various swimming holes. Some guide may offer going to the waterfalls via alternative trails. These trails are sometimes less used, and require appropriate equipment: machete (the guides have one), boots, long clothes and walking sticks. The Ojo De Dios waterfall is also close to the Fin Del Mundo, but don’t go without a guide. COP$30,000 (February 2023). 
• Hornoyaco (2 km down the road to Villagarzón, sign on left). A slightly less popular, but impressive alternative to el Fin del mundo. Takes a one hour walk from the road. No music, alcohol, food and camping allowed. COP$5000. 

Do

• Hike.
• Rappel down the el Fin del Mundo waterfall (Ecoturismo Putumayo).
• Visit the Centro Experimental Amazónica (CEA) which has various animals and plants from the Amazon. The CEA takes care of wild animals (jaguar, anacondas, turtles, birds, river fish…) rescued from traffic, and releases them if possible (many are traumatized). Entrance: COP$10,000. The place also offers interesting free exhibitions regarding indigenous culture and Putomayo history, in Spanish.

Eat

The local specialties are various freshwater fish and jungle fruits. Numerous small restaurants can be found near the main square, where street food also is available.

There is a large market right next to the bus station.

Almuerzo places in Mocoa are notably cheaper than what you'll see in many larger cities (as low as COP$6000), but meals on the trail to el Fin del Mundo cost significantly more COP$15,000/20,000 for lunch/dinner and at Huaca Huaca Hostel COP$12,000.

Sleep

There are many reasonably priced hotels in the city itself, mainly around the bus station and square.

• La Casa del Rio (2 km down the road to Villagarzón, on left). A backpackers' hostel just outside of Mocoa, close to many of the popular hikes in the area. COP$18,000 dorm. 
• Huaca Huaca Hostel (about halfway down the fin del mundo trail). A hostel with private rooms and dorms on the fin del mundo trail COP$36,000 dorm. 

Go next

• Pasto via el trampolín de la muerte (COP$30,000 back seat in a jeep, COP$70,000 for a small bus)
• San Agustín
• Puerto Asís