Rail travel in China

China has recently built a high-speed passenger rail network and is continueing to expand rapidly. The trains are similar to French TGV or Japanese Shinkansen “bullet trains”. The overall plan calls for 20-odd thousand km of lines in a national high-speed passenger network by 2020. Over 10,000 km (6,000-odd miles) were already in service as of 2013.

These are easily the best way of getting around China where available. The trains are clean, comfortable and modern. Seating is comparable to that in an airplane. Most tickets are for assigned seats; no-seat tickets are sometimes sold in limited numbers but, unlike regular Chinese trains, there is never a mad crush with more people sitting in the aisles than in seats. Also unlike other trains, no smoking is allowed, not even between carriages. Prices are reasonable and, on most routes, departures are frequent.

Although China has a well developed and advanced airport infrastructure, the country suffers from notorious flight delays whereas the high speed rail network is very punctual. Although is is technically quicker to fly from Beijing to Shanghai (for example) than with high speed rail, you should take the likelihood of long delays into account which make the rail connection far more appealing.

The fast trains are called CRH, China Railway High-speed. At some train stations there is a separate CRH ticket office or even vending machines; at others, CRH tickets are sold at separate counters in the main ticket office. In either case, just look for the “CRH” signs or logo. Note that non-Chinese can no longer use the vending machines; you must go to a counter so they can check your passport.

The speeds attained vary considerably from line to line. The technology used also varies. Nearly all the rolling stock is now manufactured in China, but much of the technology has come from abroad. The Canadian company Bombardier, Japanese Kawasaki, German Siemens and European Alstom have been involved.

See China#Get_around for more general information on rail travel in China.

Types of train and services

Fast train, Suzhou station

The letter prefixes on train numbers indicate the type of train. From fastest to slowest, the fast trains are:

• G: latest generation CRH, all with top speeds of 300+ km/h
• C: intercity high-speed rail, only found on a few lines, all short distances. Top speed 300 km/h.
• D: earlier generation CRH, with top speeds of 250 km/h (155 mph)

Since an accident in 2011 when a CRH train collision killed 40 and injured nearly 200, speeds on all these lines have been reduced by 50 km/h. As of late 2013, rumours that this restriction would be lifted soon have been circulating for months but there has been no definite announcement.

The slower trains are:

• Z or T: intermediate-speed non-CRH trains. Some of these get up to 160 km/h (100 mph)
• K or no letter: slower, cheaper and more crowded trains

Most routes will give you the option of first class and second class seats. The first class is larger and more comfortable, although second class is still pretty good. If your journey is less than 2 hours then you won't really notice much difference although longer journeys will be less tiring in first class.

Some trains also have a limited number of VIP sightseeing class or private seat cabins. Some long-distance runs have sleeper cabins. Best seats on longer-haul CRH trains are Business Class, which convert into a lie-flat bed.

The price difference for the classes is not enormous. For the Fuzhou-Shanghai D train (six hours and well over 1000 km), for example, second class is ¥282 and first class is ¥330. There is a K train for only 130, but it takes 17 hours on a less direct route and is very crowded. Unless your budget is extremely tight or you cannot cope with six hours in a non-smoking train, the fast train is hugely preferable, easily worth the cost difference.

Some trains have a dining car and nearly all have attendants selling drinks and snacks from carts which they roll up the aisles. Many stations have vendors on the platforms as well. All these tend to be expensive, though, so it is worthwhile bringing your own food and drink. Business Class passengers benefit from a free breakfast, lunch, or dinner, depending on when they travel, but this offer is very much time-sensitive, and is largely for long-haul travellers only.

Booking your tickets

Bring your passport New regulations as of 2011. In order to purchase train tickets, foreigners must now show their passports and Chinese citizens must show their ID cards. Travellers from Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan must show entry ID used when entering the mainland. A Hong Kong Identity Card is acceptable even for foreigners, although it is recommended to carry your passport just in case.

There are three methods to book tickets. Purchase at the ticket office, purchase from an automated ticket machine or purchase from a website:

Purchase from a ticket office

Each station will have one or more ticket offices where you can queue up and buy a ticket. Electronic signs will display the next trains to go as well the still available seats in each class. The officer will just want to know your destination and provide you with the next trains and the class of seat available.

Typically cash is paid for tickets, although some counters accept UnionPay cards. It is probably worth carrying the right amount of cash just in case.

Purchase from an automated ticket machine

Shorter queues can be found at the automated ticket machines, although many only accept UnionPay cards. They are located next to ticket office.

Purchase from a website

Tickets can be booked online on various websites and picked up from the train station. The ticket pickup machine at the station will require the UnionPay card that you use to order online.

• China Rail website. It is possible to book tickets via this site, and there is no charge for the service. However, the site is in Chinese only and it accepts only UnionPay so you need a Chinese bank account to use it. Travellers sometimes get a Chinese friend or a concierge to book tickets for them via this site; he or she will need your passport number to make the booking and you will need to present the passport to pick up the ticket.

 

• CTrip website. CTrip can provide train ticket bookings online in English.

 

Lines in service

Due to the size of the country and the large amount of destinations served by high speed rail, all lines are consolidated in the following dialog:

High-speed rail map of China (click to enlarge)

It is worth noting that the country's second and third largest cities, Shanghai and Guangzhou, are still not connected by high speed rail.

In addition, Hong Kong is currently building a high speed rail station that will connect to the mainland's network in a few years' time.

Boarding your train

High speed rail stations are designed in a similar manner to modern airports. In order to enter the departure area you will require your ticket and ID, as well as passing all your bags through an x-ray machine.

Your train will be clearly designated with a gate, and typically people will be allowed to the take the escalator to the platform 15 minutes before departure.

The queue will be quite long at a terminal station (such as Shanghai Hongqiao) and plenty of people will push in ahead of you. Bear in mind that you are not going to miss your train, although you can also push through if the timing is getting tight.

At the end of the queue ensure that you once more have your ticket and ID ready before descending to the platform.

On the train people tend to take any seat they want, although they will move if you show them your reservation.

During the journey

A buffet cart is available throughout the journey in all classes. Complimentary bottled water and snacks are provided in first class.

Smoking is not allowed anywhere on the train. It is also not allowed on the platform, although it seems to be standard practice for people to take a quick smoking break just outside the train doors if the train stops for a few minutes.

Arrival at your destination

The arrival area in the high speed rail station is again much like an airport. You will need your ticket to leave through the exit gates.

If the station has a metro station underneath, then queues for the metro ticket machine can get very long after a high speed train has just arrived.

Even faster — Maglev

Maglev train in Shanghai

Shanghai has a magnetic levitation train from the downtown Pudong area to Shanghai Pudong International Airport. The top speed is around 431 km/h (268 mph) during daytime hours and the 30-km trip takes around 8 minutes and costs ¥50.

There were plans to build on this and create a true intercity Maglev line between Shanghai and Hangzhou, however this has been placed on hold for now.