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Łódź (Pronounced: Wootch) is Poland's third biggest city, and the capital of the Łódzkie Voivodship. Unlike most other large Polish cities, which boast impressive long histories, Łódź was created almost from scratch during the 19th century textile industry boom to house textile mills, their owners and their workers, and rapidly grew to become an important industrial and commerce centre. In recent years, Łódź has been battling rising unemployment and youth migration resulting from the failing textile industry and is repositioning itself as a hub for design and creative industries.

Owing to its history, Łódź boasts an impressive collection of residential, commercial and industrial 19th-century architecture including some of Europe's largest factory buildings, now mostly repurposed as shopping centres or lofts. Recent local investment and a long-standing cultural scene ensures there is always something more to do than just sightseeing or shopping, with the city hosting some of the best museums and art galleries in the country. The close proximity of Warsaw and Łódź's location at the crossroads of the Polish motorway system make it an ideal destination for a day trip or longer city break.

Understand

Historic fire station in Księży Młyn area

Name and history

The exact origin of the city's name is unknown, however, the word łódź translates to "boat" in English. This is referred to in the emblem and when you hear the dwellers of Łódź (łodzianin (man) łodzianka (woman) łodzianie (plural)) calling themselves "the boat people".

A settlement on the area of present-day Łódź was first established in the 14th century and in 1423 it was granted a town charter, along with the right to have a marketplace. However, the real development of Łódź started with the industrial era at the beginning of the 19th century when the city was chosen to be the heart of the rapidly-growing textile industry. The population of Łódź soared from some 4,000 people in the 1830s and 40,000 in 1865 to over 300,000 inhabitants at the turn of the century, which was an unprecedented growth on a worldwide scale.

The rapid development of Łódź in the second half of the 19th century was brought about by the rise of enormous industrialist fortunes. New inhabitants, craftsmen and merchants came to Łódź; markets and town fairs came to life. The profits obtained from prosperous textile mills opened up practically unlimited possibilities for their owners. The city residences became expressions of the riches and power of the local tycoons. They were usually situated next to the owner's factory.

Ever since the industrial revolution brought a massive influx of workforce, Łódź had been a city almost equally divided between four cultures - Polish, Jewish, German and Russian. The day before the outbreak of World War II, Łódź was inhabited by approximately 672,000 people, among whom 35% were of Jewish faith and some 15% were ethnic German. Andrzej Wajda's movie, Promised Land based on a novel by the Nobel laureate Władysław Reymont, depicts those times and is a worthwhile introduction to the city's bustling history.

During the Nazi occupation, Łódź was incorporated directly into the Third Reich. The city was renamed to Litzmannstadt, and Piotrkowska Street was called Adolf-Hitler-Strasse. The Jewish community was practically wiped out, and many others lost their lives. Although the city was not destroyed in the aftermath, the material losses were serious as the machinery, raw materials and finished goods were taken away by the fleeing Nazis. The day before the liberation, about 80,000 Germans left Łódź in panic. At the beginning of 1945, the number of population was estimated at 300,000.

Plac Wolności

Łódź today

Since the fall of communism in Poland, Łódź has not enjoyed the rapid economic growth cities like Kraków, Warsaw and Wrocław have experienced, and has had to endure the fall of much of its textile industry, rising unemployment and emigration (both within Poland and abroad). This led to further dilapidation of the investment-starved city, and many of its streets and buildings show profound signs of neglect. At first glance, for a city of 760,000 and agglomeration of 1.428,000, there does not seem to be much to see. However, the situation is rapidly changing now with Łódź campaigning and redesigning itself as an up-and-coming destination. To accomplish this, Łódź has been capitalizing on its film history - Łódź is jokingly referred to as the "HollyŁódź" of Poland and hosts several film festivals and many other cultural events.

Łódź today may not have the glitz and glamour of its heyday; however, there is a certain charm to Łódź in its partially renovated façades and leitmotivs, not to mention its grand artistic traditions.

Orientation

The main tourist office is located at Piotrkowska 87 Street. You should also be able to get a map and some tips at the airport.

Łódź is divided into five districts:

  • Śródmieście - central downtown area
  • Polesie - western residential area
  • Widzew - eastern industrial and residential area
  • Bałuty - northern industrial and residential area
  • Górna - southern residential area

Śródmieście encompasses most of the historic architecture and points of interest. There is not much for a tourist to see outside of Śródmieście and areas directly neighbouring its borders.

Get in

By plane

1 Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (LCJ  IATA) is one of the smallest airports in Poland. It is located in the Polesie district, approximately 6 km from the city center. As of 2014, it sees very limited connections, mainly served by Ryanair to Dublin, London Stansted, East Midlands and Oslo Rygge, as well as by Adria Airways to Munich, from where one can connect to the vast Star Alliance network. Apart from that, the airport serves seasonal and charter flights to holiday destinations.

To travel between the city and the airport:

  • Taxi, in front of the terminal there is a number of taxis to choose from.

The marginalisation of Łódź's own airport is due to the proximity of the Warsaw's Chopin Airport (WAW), which offers a wide range of European and intercontinental flights. Warsaw's other airport, Modlin Airport (served by Ryanair only), is farther away. ModlinBus offers a direct connection between Łódź and both airports.

By train

See also Poland#By train

  • Łódź Fabryczna is a centrally-located terminal station for domestic trains. The station is currently closed for extensive reconstruction and is scheduled for reopening in 2015.
  • Łódź Widzew is the station located east of the center. Some trains to Warsaw leave from this station.
  • Łódź Kaliska is the station for transit trains and has connections with most major cities in Poland, including Warsaw. Located not far away from center. You can get there using 8, 10, 12 or 14 tram lines and with many buses.

By car

Łódź lies at the centre of Poland's road and highway system. The nearby city of Stryków is important motorway junction, where two of the most important motorways cross each other:

  • The A2 E30 runs from Berlin to Warsaw (through Poznań). The section between Berlin and Konin requires hefty tolls. An alternative is taking the former country road no. 2.
  • The A1 between Gdańsk and Katowice is to be completed in 2013. The 1 E75 is its country road equivalent.

The planned A8 highway to Wrocław has been downgraded in plans to S8 expressway.

By bus

Polski bus serves Berlin, Prague, Warsaw, Wrocław and Poznań. They offer free onboard wifi and the tickets should be bought online beforehand for the best price.

Eurolines serves many European routes.

There is number of small minibus and bus companies that offer connections between Łódź and number of cities (big and small) around Poland. There also minibuses that go to Okęcie airport. Polski Express and ELA that used to connect Łódź to Warsaw and other major cities do not operate anymore. You should be able to find most up to date information on Łódź Kaliska station.

Get around

The Ultimate Trams

Łódź was one of the first cities in Poland to have a tramway system in 1898 and today has one the longest tram links in Europe between Zdrowie and Ozorków (line 46).

On foot

Depending on your level of fitness, you can see the whole of the city center without needing any transport. However, for some attractions like the Old Jewish Cemetery or Botanical Garden you will be better off taking a bus.

Please be aware that in winter snow is sometimes not removed from the sidewalks, resulting in a mixture of snow and mud. Be sure to bring waterproof shoes if you plan to travel on foot in the winter.

By bike

Currently, there is no bicycle sharing system implemented in Łódź (it's starting in summer 2016), but there are quite good bike paths connecting extreme points of the city. If you have your own bike, be careful to chain it when not using it. For more information, please contact Łódzka Masa Krytyczna or Rowerowa Łódź who promote bike riding in the city.

You will find a map of bike paths here [1]. Different path colors mean different road pavings.

Public transport

The public transport system is operated by MPK-Łódź (apart from two bus lines: 6 and 58, operated by other companies, but the same tickets are valid; don't mistake the bus line 6 with the tram line 6, which has the same number, but is operated by MPK). It is definitely the cheapest way of moving around the city. The descriptions on the bus and tram stops are in Polish only, but they should be easy to follow. See the Polish phrasebook if you feel uncomfortable. Click here for MPK's official site [2]. For schedules of buses and trams see also jakdojade.pl (available also in English). Outside of the rush hour (7-9AM and 15-18 PM), the public transport is quite efficient and runs on time. During the rush hours and in winter (during snowy conditions) be prepared for some delays.

It is divided into two ticket zones: inner city and suburban (the division doesn't concern 40 minute and 60 minute time tickets). The inner city tickets are valid within the city borders, while the suburban ones - in the neighbouring towns and villages serviced by the Łódź public transport system (with the exception of the towns of Zgierz and Pabianice, which will be explained later on).

Some of the lines have also a shorter version denoted with a letter after the line number (for example A, B etc.). The general rule is that a version without letters is the longest one, "A" is the shortest one and "B", "C" etc. are consecutively longer then "A". But it sometimes doesn't hold - there are lines in case of which an "A" version of a line is considerably different from the original variant. Some variants of lines aren't denoted by a letter after the line number at all. Always check the timetable, where all the information is always included.

Current ticket prices for inner city (valid until 31 October 2015)

  • 20 minute (valid for 40 minutes1) regular ticket 2.60 PLN,
  • 40 minute (valid for 60 minutes1) regular ticket 3.40 PLN,
  • 24 hour regular ticket 12.00 PLN,
  • 3 day regular ticket 30.20 PLN,
  • weekly regular ticket 45.20 PLN,
  • single ride ticket is 3.80 PLN.

1 - since 20 June 2013 validity period of these tickets has been extended due to renovation works, but they are still marked as "20 minute" and "40 minute".

Every short-term ticket allows you to change the vehicle an unlimited number of times within the ticket time (waiting time at the bus stop also counts, so be careful if you have a "short" ticket and a long connection!). If using the single ride ticket, you are not permitted to change the vehicle. But usually the time tickets are more affordable than the single ride ones.

If you use short-term time tickets, you can mix various ticket denominations to obtain the ticket you want (up to the 24 hour ticket, e.g. you can validate two 24 hour reduced tickets (6 PLN) one after another to get a 24 hour adult ticket that costs 12 PLN). All the reduced fare tickets (50% off the regular price) can be used only if you have valid documentation with yourself (e.g. a student ID of Polish university or an ISIC card) as it will be requested during the ticket control.

Remember to validate your ticket immediately after you enter a bus or a tram - it should be the first thing you do. It is also strongly recommended that you buy your tickets beforehand in numerous newspaper kiosks and small groceries. Most of the vehicles (except those operating bus lines: 6 and 58) are equipped with ticket machines, but remember that some of them accept only cash, some of them accept cash and contactless payment cards and some of them accept only payment cards (both contactless and traditional ones). If there is no machine, you can usually buy the ticket from the driver (but again, except from the buses: 6 and 51). In such a situation you have to, however, have an accurate amount of cash prepared and only single ride tickets are available. Beware that the lack of possibility to buy a ticket onboard isn't any explanation in case of a ticket control.

Tickets valid for longer than 24 hours are written on the electronic card called "Migawka", you can buy them only in special points, listed here: [3]. Tickets valid for longer than 7 days are available in two versions - bearer and personal. Personal tickets are cheaper, but they must be ordered in advance (online [4] or in one of 6 points [5]) and you must attach a photo.

There are also several mobile phone payment systems for buying single ride and short-term tickets. Callpay uses premium numbers (there is no need to register or download any application), while Mpay, Mobilet, Skycash and Unibank all offer pre-paid e-purses accessible through a mobile phone application. Unfortunately, only Skycash offers an English website, but there is still no English application.

Travelling with any luggage (within reason) or a bicycle is free of charge. During the summer, there is a special summer schedule with reduced number of departures for most of the lines.

All traffic info (mainly disruptions) is posted in real-time on the Facebook page MPK-Łódź Traffic.

By tram

A Łódź tram

The tram network consists of 19 tram lines. If there is a change in the schedule (in other words, if something fails), the substitute bus lines are marked with either the Z or KZ abbreviation (for "komunikacja zastępcza" - "substitute transport"), or the number of the substituted tram. The tram line map is here [6]. Currently, due to the renovations of the tram tracks, some lines have been closed and are served by substitute buses. Such long-term substitute buses are marked with the letter Z and a number, often being a number of the replaced tram line - for example Z5 for a bus substituting the tram number 5 (but it's not a rule). The current map is here [7].

Tourist Tram Line

Łódź has one of the oldest tram networks in Poland which date 19th century. One of the attractions during the summer is taking the 'Tourist Tram Line' (43) [8], which goes from the stop at Telefoniczna through the Liberty Square in Łódź (beginning of Piotrkowska street) and the town of Konstantynów Łódzki to the village of Lutomiersk. Suburban Łódź public transport tickets are valid.

By bus

The buses are the backbone of the public transport in Łódź. Almost all of the buses are the easily accessible low-floor buses. The bus line map is here [9].

Night buses

There are 7 night bus lines and they serve extreme points of the city. There is no fare increase compared to other public transport services, so you can use ordinary tickets on the night lines. It is important to note that all the night lines have a common stop at Kościuszki/Zielona intersection and depart every hour starting at 22:30 on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. Be fast to board your bus as they stand in a long line and all depart at the same time! The night bus map is here [10].

Suburban trams and buses

The public transport system of Łódź is present not only in the city of Łódź, but it also connects the city with neighbouring towns and villages. It is divided into two zones: inner city and suburban one (the division doesn't concern 40-minute and 60-minute time tickets). Furthermore, the towns of Zgierz and Pabianice have their own public transport systems and their own tickets. What is more, the public transport systems of these towns are connected with the one of Łódź by a few suburban tram and bus lines. When you are leaving the borders of Łódź, it is important to know, which tickets you should use.

The suburban tickets of the public transport of Łódź are valid in:

  • all the trams and buses within the borders of Łódź
  • all the trams outside the borders of Łódź
  • all the buses outside the borders of Łódź, but except Zgierz (both local ones and those connecting Zgierz with Łódź) and Pabianice (local ones)

The tickets of the public transport of Pabianice are valid in:

  • local buses in Pabianice

The tickets of the public transport of Zgierz are valid in:

  • buses in Zgierz - local ones and those connecting Zgierz with Łódź (6 and 51), but only within the borders of Zgierz

Travelling from Łódź to Zgierz by one of the bus lines: 6 or 51, you have to validate a new ticket at the border stop (marked in the timetable with a hash: #).

Travelling from Łódź to towns and villages other than Zgierz by buses and to all the other towns and villages (including Zgierz) by trams, you have to have a ticket for the suburban zone beginning at least from the border stop (marked in the timetable with a hash: #). If you possess for example a monthly inner city ticket of Łódź, and you are going to Zgierz by tram (16 or 46), you have to validate a 40-minute Łódź ticket (or another one that is valid in the suburban zone) at the Helenówek stop. Of course, you can have a suburban zone ticket for the whole journey, including the part within Łódź.

The list of the lines crossing the border of Łódź, where the Łódź suburban tickets are valid, together with the names of the border stops, is available here (the webpage is in Polish, but the list is clearly visible): [11].

By car

Driving in Łódź is quite easy and the rules of the road are adhered to. Be aware that pedestrians and bicycles have a right-of-way on pedestrian and bike crossings. During the rush hour, on the main arterial roads (Mickiewicza, Kopcińskiego, Pabianicka, Włokniarzy, Jana Pawła II, Paderewskiego, Śmigłego-Rydza, Rzgowska, Kościuszki, Strykowska and Zgierska) large traffic jams form.

There is a number of local and international car rental agencies that may arrange a car for you when you arrive at the airport [12][13][14][15]. When parking in the city center within the marked paid parking area, make sure you pay the parking fee. The fee is 2.00 PLN per every hour (or 10 PLN per day or 40 PLN per week). You only have to pay when you park between 8:00 and 18:00 on weekdays, and weekends and holidays are free. You may also park on a privately-owned parking lot in the center. A parking attendant will approach you then and put a piece of paper behind the wiper with the time you started parking. When leaving, you will have the pay the fee - it is usually the same as for the public parking (or slightly more).

You can buy a daily pass directly at the parking lot, but to buy at least a weekly pass, you will need to go to Zarząd Dróg i Transportu (Road and Transport Authority) located at ul. Piotrkowska 171/173 (Tuesdays 9:30-16:00, every other weekday 8:30-15:30) and buy it there.

Taxis

Taxis are another option to consider, and are quite cheap for a westerner. However, one should be sure that there is a taxi sign atop the cab and that the driver has a permit. 9622, 600400400 and 9191 are some of the known companies and they all have exactly same prices.

Rickshaws

On Piotrkowska Street, you can travel any distance on a rickshaw for 2.50 zł per person. It gets to 4.00 zł in the night and most of the rikshaw drivers will take you out of Piotrkowska if you offer to pay more.

See

Łódź is well known for its architectural monuments which form a record of the city's heritage, particularly its unique nineteenth century development. Since 1989, the city of Łódź has rediscovered its industrial heritage, a unique ensemble of architecture, preserved despite two World Wars.

Piotrkowska Street
  • Piotrkowska street (Located in the city center). It is one of the longest commercial streets in Europe and one of the major attractions in the city. It runs in a straight line from the Liberty Square (Plac Wolności) to the Independence Square (Plac Niepodległości). A very large number of pubs, bars, restaurants, and, of course, attractions are located on this street.
  • Łódź Walk of Fame (Aleja Gwiazd), ul. Piotrkowska (Between 6 Sierpnia Street and Rubinstein Passage). Being the Polish Hollywood, Łódź has its own Walk of Fame. Some of the names are Pola Negri, Roman Polański or Andrzej Wajda.
  • Old Market Square (Rynek Starego Miasta), ul. Kilinskiego 56 (Next to Staromiejski Park). Was once incorporated into the Ghetto. It now serves as a venue for concerts and fairs.
  • The Decalogue Memorial (Pomnik Dekalogu w Łodzi), ul. Kilinskiego 56 (In the Staromiejski Park). It is a tribute to the coexistence of Poles and Jews. The memorial is located close to the Old Market Square in Staromiejski Park.
  • Litzmannstadt Ghetto (Getto Łódzkie). The Litzmannstadt Ghetto was the second largest Jewish ghetto in Poland after the Warsaw Ghetto. It is referred to as both the Łódź Ghetto and the Litzmannstadt Ghetto, the latter name coming from the German general who captured the city in World War One (the entire city was later renamed Litzmannstadt in his honor). The ghetto was the last one to be liquidated due to the high productivity of the slave laborers and lack of armed resistance. See Holocaust remembrance for context.

Palaces and mansions

Poznański Palace, Art Museum
  • Poznański Palace (Pałac Poznańskiego), ul. Ogrodowa 15 (Next to Manufaktura complex). A beautiful 19th century building that was built by Izrael Poznański - a textile magnate and a philanthropist. Today it holds the Museum of the City of Łódź.
  • Ludwik Geyer's Mansion (Dworek Ludwika Geyera), ul. Piotrkowska 286 (Near the Independence Square). A classicist mansion built in 1833 by Ludwik Geyer - one of the textile magnates. Currently, it is a privately owned property.
  • Karol Scheibler's Palace (Pałac Karola Scheiblera), Plac Zwycięstwa (Next to Księży Młyn). Neo-Renaissance palace today hosts the Film Museum.
  • Leopold Kindermann's Villa (Willa Leopolda Kindermanna), ul. Wólczańska 31/33 (Between Zielona and 6 Sierpnia Streets). One of the most important examples of art nouveau architecture in Łódź. Built in 1903, it currently houses Łódź's Art Gallery.

Former factories

One of the renovated buildings in Manufaktura centre
  • Manufaktura (Centrum Manufaktura), between Zachodnia, Ogrodowa, Karskiego and Drewnowska streets (The easiest way to get there is from Zachodnia Street which is the extension of Kościuszki Street). It is the largest shopping mall in the city and probably one of the most unique shopping malls in the world because it is located in old factory buildings.
  • White Factory (Biała Fabryka Geyera), ul. Piotrkowska 282. This old factory currently holds the city's Textile Museum. Located next to a small lake, it is very nicely lit during the evenings.
  • Księży Młyn (Next to Źródliska Park). A large complex of 19th century textile factories.
  • Kopisch's bleachery (Bielnik Kopischa), ul. Tymienieckiego 5 (Just east off the Cathedral Square). It is the oldest (built in 1826) preserved building connected with textile Łódź.

Religious buildings

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
  • Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Sobór św. Aleksandra Newskiego w Łodzi), ul. Kilinskiego 56 (On the intersection with Narutowicza Street, close to Łódź Fabryczna station). A rare example of Orthodox architecture in Poland.
  • St. Joseph's Church (Kościół św. Józefa), ul. Ogrodowa 22 (Near the Manufaktura mall), +48 42 633 45 37. Open during mass only.. This is the oldest building in the city - the only one built in the pre-industry period.
Remains of matzevas at Jewish cemetery
  • Jewish cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski w Łodzi), Entrance from ul. Zmienna (Bałuty district). From Sunday to Friday (except Jewish holidays, when it is closed) 1st April - 1st November 09:00 till 17:00. From 2nd November till 31st March, 09:00 till 15:00. For centuries, Poland was home to the largest Jewish community in the world. Jewish people also strongly influenced the history of Łódź. This is the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. 6 zł (On every first Sunday in month admission free.).
  • Old cemetery (Stary Cmentarz w Łodzi), ul. Ogrodowa 43 (Next to Manufaktura). The most important active cemetery in Łódź. Here you will find one of the most exquisite sacral buildings in Europe, the Karol Scheibler's Chapel.
  • Karol Scheibler's Chapel (Kaplica Karola Scheiblera), ul. Ogrodowa 43 (Evangelical - Augsburg part of the Old Cemetery). This chapel was for a long time neglected and its condition deteriorated, however, today, works are on the way to improve its past glory.

Museums & Art Galleries

Łódź has a surprisingly large amount of museums for a city of its size and background, which strengthens its claim as a hotbed of culture and ensures there is always somewhere to go for a visitor. Most charge a small fee, though these are good value by western standards.

Museum of Textiles (White Factory)
Inside underground Sewage System Museum Dętka
  • 1 ms1 (Muzeum Sztuki (Art Museum)), ul. Więckowskiego 36 (corner of ul. Gdanska), . Hours: Monday: closed, Tuesday: 10 - 17, Wednesday: 11 - 17, Thursday: 12 - 19, Friday: 11 - 17, Saturday: 10 - 16, Sunday: 10 - 16. It was one of the first museums of modern art in Europe and has a really impressive collection of Polish and international 20th century art (for long time and arguably still the best in Poland). The building itself belonged to the Poznański family, same as the palace where Muzeum Historii Miasta Łodzi is located. (Tip: after leaving the museum take Gdańska street and go 50 meters up north to see the beautiful building of the Music Academy - previously also one of the houses of Izrael Poznański. If you are confident enough you can go in (entrance on ul. 1 Maja) to see an elegant stain glass window on the first floor.) Admission: Adults: 7 zł, Families: 13 zł; Temporary exhibitions: Adults: 4 zł, Reduced ticket: 3 zł; Free admission on Thursdays.
  • 2 ms2 (Muzeum Sztuki squared), ul. Ogrodowa 19 (in Manufaktura), +48 42 634 39 48, fax: +48 42 634 39 62. Hours: Monday: closed, Tuesday: 10 - 18, Wednesday: 10 - 20, Thursday: 10 - 20, Friday: 10 - 20, Saturday: 10 - 20, Sunday: 10 - 20. Ms2 is dedicated mostly to the Collection of 20th and 21st Century Art. The museum is located in a building of 19th century weaving plant (former part of Poznański family textile manufacture, modern days part of shopping mall ‘’’Manufactura’’’ ). This museum should be consider as a extension to the ms (Muzeum Sztuki) and even name shows that ms2 is second and also has bigger expositions area. (ms to square). Admission: Adults: 8 zł, Reduced ticket:5 zł; Temporary exhibitions: Adults: 6 zł, Reduced ticket: 4 zł; Permanent and temporary exhibitions: Adults: 12 zł, reduced 7 zł; Free admission on Thursdays.
  • 3 Muzeum Historii Miasta Łodzi (Museum of the City of Łódź) (Poznański Palace), ul. Ogrodowa 15 (corner ul. Zachodnia), +48 42 6540323, fax: +48 42 6540323, . Hours: Monday: Closed, Tuesday: 10.00 - 16.00, Wednesday: 14.00 - 18.00, Thursday: 10.00 - 16.00, Friday: 10.00 - 14.00, Saturday: 10.00 - 14.00, Sunday: 10.00 - 14.00. Various beautiful rooms with exhibitions dedicated to some of the most famous people from Łódź including writer Julian Tuwim, pianist Artur Rubenstein, and collections of items from the daily lives of those who have lived in Łódź throughout the years. The museum itself is located within a beautiful building called Palace Poznańskiego. One of the major attractions in Łódź.
  • 4 Dętka (Museum of Łódź Sewage System), plac Wolności (underground, at Plac Wolności), +48 42 254 90 11, . Summer only. Museum of the old sewage system located in a circular water tank below pl. Wolnosci, built in brick in 1926. Accommodates max. 10 people inside, no big bags, do not go in if you are claustrophobic. A great experience otherwise. 5 zł, reduced 3 zł.
  • 5 Muzeum Archeologiczne i Ethograficzne (Museum of Ethnography and Archaeology), Plac Wolnosci 14, +48 42 632 8440. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday: 10:00 - 17:00, Wednesday: 09:00 - 16:00, Saturday: 09:00 - 15:00. The largest museum in the city, containing an exceptional collection of ancient treasures and archaeological artefacts from all around the surrounding region. Many exhibits date from as long ago as the Stone Age, and cover various periods right up to the Middle Ages.
  • 6 Museum of Textiles (White Factory), ul. Piotrkowska 282. Mondays closed. Permanent and temporary exhibitions concerning everything connected with textiles: industry, machines and fashion. Working machines on display on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays: 9:00 - 17:00, and on Thursdays: 11:00 - 15:00. 10 zł, reduced 6 zł, Saturdays free.
Also in the complex is the Open-air Museum of the Łódź Wooden Architecture.
  • Film Museum (Muzeum Kinematografii), pl. Zwycięstwa 1. Mondays closed. 10 zł, reduced 7 zł.
The view on the Old Market Square from Park Staromiejski

Parks

One of the "greenest" cities in Poland, Łódź is home to 34 public parks - 11 of which are natural monuments - and one of the largest city forests in Europe located within the city borders. Perhaps the most interesting ones are:

  • Łódź Hills Landscape Park (Park Krajobrazowy Wzniesień Łódzkich), Between Łódź and Brzeziny (Take the bus from Plac Dąbrowskiego or Academy of Art). A natural landscape reservation for walks and bike rides. Located 30 minutes by bus line 88 from the Academy of Art. Large part of Łagiewnicki Forest is a part of this park. Due the their location in the beautiful park, small outskirt villages like Kalonka, Dobieszków or Wódka are one of the most prestigious locations for house development.
  • Łagiewnicki Forest (Las Łagiewnicki) (North-eastern part of the city, bus line 56). One of the largest forest complexes in the world that is located within city boundaries. Arturówek lake is a very well known local attraction during the summer, but there are also numerous bike paths there.
  • Botanical Garden (Ogród Botaniczny), ul. Krzemieniecka 36/38 (Get there by bus 6, 76, 80, 99 or tram 9 or 43.), +48 42 688 44 20, fax: +48 42 688 44 14. May–August (9:00-20:00), April and September (9:00-19:00), October (9:00-17:00). The ticket offices close one hour before the park.. Largest botanical garden in Poland with some very interesting natural architecture and plant exhibitions. Enter from Kusocińskiego or Krzemieniecka Street. Open from 1st April until 31st October. For 30/45 PLN (depending on the ticket type) you can hire an official guide. 4 PLN adult, 2 PLN reduced, 40 PLN season ticket.
  • Palm House (Park Źródliska), Plac Zwycięstwa (Right off Piłsudskiego Street). Closed on all Mondays, last week of March and July.. One of the most interesting buildings in Łódź. It is located within Źródliska Park. Inside, you will many unique plants. The total number of plants is estimated to 4500. For 30/45 PLN (depending on the ticket type) you can hire an official guide. 6 PLN adult, 3 PLN reduced. Be prepared to pay for the washrooms and the obligatory changing room..
  • Źródliska Park (Park Źródliska), Plac Zwycięstwa (Right off Piłsudskiego Street). The oldest park in Łódź. In 2007 it was selected the most beautiful city park in Poland and it also ranked 5th in Europe. It is located in the city center on Piłsudskiego Street. Located within is Palmiarnia Łódzka.
  • Józef Piłsudski Park (More popularly known as Zdrowie Park - Park na Zdrowiu), Polesie district near to City Zoo and the Botanical Garden (The easiest way to get there is by taking the 80 or 99 and dropping off at Krzemieniecka Street.). The largest park in Łódź. It is more a forest than a park with a few lakes and large alleys.
  • Poniatowski Park (Park Poniatowskiego), Located almost along the whole length of Mickiewicza St (Located near Łódź Kaliska station). It is best to enter from Parkowa Street (near Real hypermarket). The park is a very popular venue for wedding photos and casual biking. There are also tennis courts there (entry from Mickiewicza Street).
  • Old City Park (Park Staromiejski (every local knows it by the name Park Śledzia)), Nowomiejska/Północna intersection (Located next to the Old Market Square). The Decalogue Memorial is located within and the park has an excellent view on the Old Market Square. You can play chess with the locals there.

Do

Having been primarily promoted as a centre of creative industries (arts, design, fashion), the city hosts a considerable number of cultural events throughout the year on a range of subject matter. If you are travelling not just to see beautiful architecture, but to also experience a plethora of local events, Łódź is a great place to be.

Festivals

The annual 'Light Move' festival
  • Łódź of Four Cultures Festival (Festiwal Łódź Czterech Kultur). Takes place every September. Intended to promote understanding and tolerance between the four nations that have built the city.
  • Light Move Festival. A festival of light held every October that utilises public spaces in the city centre for a spectacular show of art and video.
  • International Festival of Photography (Fotofestiwal). Takes place every May. All the events take place in old factories, tenement buildings and villas of Łódź – post-industrial architecture creates a truly unique atmosphere for presentation of photographs.
  • Łódź Design Festival (Międzynarodowy Festiwal Designu). Held in October. Hosts various exhibitions and design events.
  • Se-ma-for Film Festival. International festival of puppet movies and three-dimensional techniques. First such festival in Europe, second in the world.

Leisure

  • 1 Lunapark. A popular, free theme park located just outside the city.
  • 2 Łódź zoo, ul. Konstantynowska 8/10, +48 42 632 75 09. A state-run zoo (and thus low in ticket prices) that hosts a wide variety of exotic animals. The giraffes and elephants are a particular highlight 11 zł, reduced 5 zł.

Cinemas

  • Kino Bałtyk, ul. Narutowicza 20, +48 42 630 36 03. Once it was the largest and the most important cinema in Łódź, but it has lost the market to chains like Silver Screen or Cinema City. The cinema is located right behind the philharmonic. It is well-known for its excellent sound system.
  • Cinema City, ul. Karskiego 5 (Located in Manufaktura mall), +48 42 664 64 64, fax: +48 42 664 64 02, . Comfortable, big theater with 14 cinema halls and 1 big IMAX hall offering projections of 3D movies. Movie selection contains the latest Hollywood hits with Polish subtitles.
  • Silver Screen, ul. Piłsudskiego 5, +48 42 639 58 00. Silver Screen is located in the city center, next to Galeria Łódzka shopping mall and Ibis hotel. The movies are usually offered with Polish subtitles. There are billiard tables if you are bored watching movies.

Theatres

The city's theatre scene can be considered a jewel in its cultural crown and includes a diverse range of shows and productions.

  • 3 Teatr Jaracza, ul. Jaracza 27, +48 42 662 33 33, . The ticket offices are open from Monday till Sunday between 12:00 and 19:00. The reservations must be picked up before 18:00. It is considered one of the best drama theaters in Poland. They play Tuesday to Sunday mid September till mid June. On its 3 performance halls you can see modern Polish and international drama as well as the classics.
  • 4 Teatr Nowy, ul. Zachodnia 93 (Mała Sala - small performance hall) and ul. Więckowskiego 15 (Duża Sala - large performance hall), +48 42 636 05 92, . Ticket offices are open from Tuesday till Friday between 09:00 and 19:00, on Saturdays from 12:00 till 19:00 and on Sundays one before the play. It offers varied, mostly contemporary repertoire. Also the quality is varied so better ask for advice someone local or ask staff for an honest recommendation. The building served a Jewish cabaret before the WW2 and a Jewish theatre until 1948 (later it moved to Warsaw).
  • 5 Teatr Wielki (Grand Theatre), plac Dąbrowskiego, +48 42 633 77 77, fax: +48 42 631 95 52, . The ticket offices are open from Monday till Saturday between 12:00 and 19:00, and on Sundays from 15:00 till 19:00. It is the largest theatre in the city (second largest in Poland) with 1070 seats. It specializes in opera, operetta and ballet.

Live music

Łódź Philharmonic
  • 8 Artur Rubinstein's Łódz Philharmonic (Filharmonia Łódzka), ul. Narutowicza 20/22, +48 42 664 79 10, . Ticket office open Monday-Friday from 12:00 till 18:00, one hour before every performance and during the first break in every performance. Second oldest philharmonic in Poland. If you are a fan of classical music, this is a place to go. Behind the philharmonic is Kino Bałtyk.

Tango

Milongas usually take place on Mondays in Oranżada on ul. Piotrkowska 67 and on Sundays in Klub Mojito on ul. Piotrkowska 143. They usually start at 7-8PM and don't last longer than till 10-12. Several long and short tango courses are usually organized trough the year [16].

Sports

  • Łódź Marathon (Dbam o Zdrowie). A major sports event held yearly in April. Quite popular both among the locals and the visitors, it offers a few different distances to run.
  • 9 Fala Aquapark, al. Unii Lubelskiej 4. 9:00 - 22:00. One of the largest aquaparks in Poland. Once it was the most popular swimming complex in the city, and after a complete renovation it aspires to its former glory.
  • AZS Clubs (Kluby Uczelniane AZS). Every major university has its own Academic Sports Society Club. They offer various activities (sekcje or sections) ranging from chess to sailing for low prices.
  • 10 Arena Łódź, al. Bandurskiego 7. Large multi-purpose indoor arena hosting both concerts and sports events like basketball, volleyball or ice hockey matches.


Buy

The vast rate of improvements made over the past two decades mean Łódź may in fact be Poland’s top shopping destination (but don't tell that to someone from Warsaw!). Whether one is in search of American-style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, there is much to be explored and it is likely you will need more than a day to experience it all!

Shopping areas

  • Piotrkowska Street is the main commercial street in the city. It is supposedly the longest commercial street in Europe, being four kilmometres long. There are many enticing shops selling jewelry, clothes and books.
  • Kościuszki Street not as famous as Piotrkowska Street, but you can usually buy the same things here and pay much, much less.

Malls

Inside the Manufaktura

Łódź has a good number of shopping malls. The most notable are:

  • 1 Manufaktura, Ul. Ogrodowa 17, +48 42 654 85 00. Manufaktura is a unique place - an old factory converted into a modern shopping mall. Apart from shops there is a cinema, hotel, museum and art gallery.
  • 2 Galeria Łódzka, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (Located on the intersection with Sienkiewicza Street), +48 42 639 1500, fax: +48 42 639 1520. The largest single collection of shops is the Galeria Lodzka - a large mall on ul. Piłsudskiego - where you will find almost anything from the latest fashions and expensive perfume to modern electrical equipment and groceries.
  • 3 Port Łódź, ul. Pabianicka 245 (Take tram line 11, get out on IKEA stop.). Another shopping mall. You can buy (also eat and drink) there almost everything. One of the shops there is IKEA. The mall is located within the city limits. From city center you can go there by car in the direction of Pabianice or just take the tram line 11 heading to IKEA/Chocianowice (it is the last stop you cannot miss it). Most shops and restaurant in Port Łódź can also be found in the city center or other existing malls. But if you love IKEA, it is the only place in Łódź where you will find it.
  • 4 Ptak Trade Center (Centrum Handlowe Ptak), ul. Rzemieślnicza 35, Rzgów (Take bus 70 (or 50, but be prepared to walk). You drop off at the terminus.). Opened from 5:00/7:00 during weekdays, from 9:00 on the weekends. Closes at 15:00. If you thought that Thailand or China are the places to go to buy clothes, well, you are mistaken. This is one of the largest clothes-oriented wholesale and retail centers in Europe (if not the largest one). The prices are highly competitive, quality is high and you can get there anything from a wedding dress to hipster clothes. The mall is enormous, so be prepared to spend at least a whole day there. Do not go there on Mondays as most of the stands are closed. Located a few kilometers south of Łódź.
  • 5 Polros (Centrum Handlowe Polros), Tuszyńska 72/74, Rzgów (Take bus 70 (or 50, but be prepared to walk). You drop off at the terminus.). Located just next to Ptak Trade Center, another very large clothes-oriented shopping mall. Located a few kilometers south of Łódź.
  • 6 Retkinia Shopping Center (Centrum Handlowe Retkinia), ul. Maratońska 24/32 (Located in the western part of the city, close to the airport.), . It is not a mall per se, but rather a small local shopping center that you will rarely find on a tourist map. There are no chain stores here, but still you can buy RPG and board games, clothes and many other things.

Markets

If you are up to buying groceries, clothes or anything else on a real market, these are the places to go:

  • Baluty Market (Rynek Bałucki) in the district of Baluty in the north of the city, big open air market, every Saturday you can buy here everything from vegetables, over clothes to live pets. Not romantic, but an experience!
  • Dolna-Ceglana Market (Targowisko Dolna-Ceglana) on Dolna Street, the biggest vegetable open air market for individual people (2 minutes away, north from Bałuty Market) very often by mistake named as Rynek Bałucki - but they are two different places.
  • Zielony rynek ("The green market") on Plac Barlickiego (8 minutes away from Piotrkowska St.) is a great place to buy fresh fruits and vegetables as well as bread, meat, homemade honey and other products.
  • Górniak Market ("Rynek Górniak") Located at the very end of Piotrkowska Street (Piotrkowska 317), it is a well-known market among the locals. You can buy numerous gadgets here, as well as high-quality clothes for a very low price.

Clothes

You will find numerous shops offering wedding dresses in Łódź. This is a derivative of Łódź being once a very large textile center. The "wedding district" is located on ul. Jaracza, ul. Sienkiewicza and ul. Kilińskiego, but you will also find other shops all around the city. If you buy something directly off-shelf, you may get a very good price (usually less than €250). It is cheaper if you decide to buy in autumn as it is considered to be the low season.

For groom clothes, you can visit either Ptak Trading Center, Polros or Pawis shop [17] where you can get a tailor-made suit (but it usually takes a few weeks). There is also Sunset Suits and Armani stores in Manufaktura mall that tailor wedding garments. Again, if you buy off-shelf, the price is highly competitive.

Eat

Łódź has culinary influence from all over the world and it is actually quite difficult to find explicitly Polish cuisine if you do not dine in the most expensive places. For the cheapest food, it is best to go to one of the numerous kebab or Yem joints. For something a bit healthier, you can easily get a tasty sandwich for around 6-8 PLN. Polish cuisine does not have any cheap 'fast food' meals, so if you want to try something definitely Polish, it is wise to invest a bit more money and go to a splurge restaurant. They are costly only by Polish standards.

The cheaper option would be to look for a 'Pierogarnia' (or ask someone about it). There are many of such places in Łódź and they sell Polish dumplings. The price is usually very competitive.

Food shopping

If you are not dining out, the cheapest way to buy food is in one of the numerous hypermarkets in Łódź. The most popular brands are Tesco, Carrefour, Real or E.Leclerc. If you are on budget, you can go to Biedronka or Lidl. If you are prepared to spend some more money and buy some better produce, go to Bomi, Alma or Piotr i Paweł. The last three shops are 100% Polish-owned, so it is recommendable that you shop there.

If you want to support the local economy, please buy at small grocery stores.

Budget

  • Da Grasso, . Daily: 11 - 22, except Sundays when they start at noon and Friday nights when they work till 1AM. Their big pizza is more than enough for 2 hungry people. It is actually a chain, so you can find their restaurants all around the city. 15-25 PLN.
  • 1 In Centro, ul. Piotrkowska 153, +48 42 636 99 92. Hours: Mon-Sat: 12 - 22; Sun 13-22. Small pizzeria in the center of the city near Galeria Lodzka and Ibis Hotel. The oldest one in Łódź. 12 - 30 PLN.
  • 2 Green Way, ul. Piotrkowska 80, +48 42 632 08 52. A vegetarian fast food chain has one restaurant. They also offer free wireless access to the internet. A soup 3 PLN, second plate 6-9 PLN..
  • 3 Manekin, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1, +48 42 671 07 84, . Sun-Thu 10-22.30; Fri-Sat 10-23.30. This place is about pancakes that are served in all imaginable varieties, sweet or savory, plain or stuffed, and even baked under cheese to make them even more hearty. Prices are surprisingly low, while the interior and service reputedly good. And if you can't eat any more pancakes, soups and salads are also available. 7-15 zł.
  • 4 Orfeusz, ul. Narutowicza 43, +48 42 631 98 06. Hours: Daily: 11 - 23. International restaurant with traditional Polish and Italian cuisine. There is also a salad bar and a big choice of dishes à la carte. 10 - 32 PLN.
  • 5 The Dorsz (Fish and Chips), ul. Traugutta 9. British Fish and Chips, on the spot and to go. Best french fries. On the walls examples of art from Polish graphic novels. 5 - 20 PLN.

Mid-range

  • 6 Piotrkowska Klub 97, ul. Piotrkowska 97, +48 42 630-65-73, fax: +48 42 632-47-14, . Piotrkowska Klub 97 is said to be David Lynch's favorite restaurant in Łódź. Good quality food and wines. There is a Milonga Milonga w Łodzi [18]- a tango evening in one of the halls most of Monday nights (starting around 19.30)
  • 7 Da Antonio, ul. Jaracza 45 (Near to Plac Dąbrowskiego in a small villa), +48 42 630 50 70. Try their Italian-style pizza! 25-40 PLN for an Italian pizza.
  • 8 Cafe Tuwim, ul. Pomorska 18, +48 42 631 14 71. Hours: Daily: 10:00 - 22:00. The only glat-kosher restaurant in the city About 30 PLN for one course and a drink.

Splurge

Drink

Łódź is known for its excellent night scene. Nightlife is concentrated in the city center (Piotrkowska Street, Kościuszki Street and the adjoining streets). There are dozens of pubs and restaurants there. Another focal point is Manufaktura where many festivals and public concerts take place (but it usually closes much earlier).

  • 1 Piwoteka, ul. 6 sierpnia 1/3, . Located right off Piotrkowska Street, it is both a shop and a pub. You can try literally hundreds of Polish regional beers there. Recommended for beer tasters.
  • 3 Cabaret Discoteque, ul. Tuwima 1/3 (Right off Piotrkowska Street), +48 42 630 05 13. Fridays-Saturdays from 22:00. A posh club with very nice interior. The prices are high, but a visit is well-worth it.
  • 4 Pub Łódź Kaliska, ul.Piotrkowska 102, +48 42 630 69 55, fax: +48 42 630 69 55, . One of the most popular pubs, an institution! Named after the artist group "Łódź Kaliska". Decorated with pieces of art. On weekends very crowded. A must see are the women's toilets on the second floor!
  • 5 Studio 102, ul. Piotrkowska 102, +48 42 632 15 34, . Directly opposite Łódź Kaliska lies a much more laid back and down to earth establishment. Good music and an interesting gallery of pictures on the walls provide welcome refuge from the Friday night throngs.
  • 6 Irish Pub, Piotrkowska 77, +48 42 632 48 76. Wide selection of beers - including Guinness and Kilkenny, Irish specialties - wines and other beverages. You can eat as well as have a drink here.
  • Rolling Stone, ul. Moniuszki 6, +48 42 633 65 41. A self-styled "English Pub". Here you can sit back on oak pews and laugh at caricatures of the Royal Family and Keith Richards to the sound of The Cure. Is much bigger than it looks from the outside.
  • Dwie Dłonie, ul. Wólczańska 40/42, +48 42 630 10 05, +48 605 99 46 99, . The only pub in the city that aims to integrate those who hear and those who don't. Staff people know Polish sign language. You can have a drink here as well as eat a pizza (9,5 - 27 PLN), play table football, billiard or darts or use internet for 2,50 PLN/h.
  • Eclipse Inn, ul. Piotrkowska 80. English pub with several British beers off the tap and more in bottles.
  • 9 Owoce i warzywa, ul. Traugutta 9. Mecca for the local hipsters. Furnished with some examples of Polish design. Regular concerts of indie musicians, also from abroad.

Coffee

  • Coffeeheaven, ul. Piotrkowska 80. Coffee Heaven is nothing but a bland international-style coffee place, but it is indeed a heaven in early morning hours, when more genuine Polish cafes are still closed and keep their seducing desserts behind the windows. Expect pricey coffee, decent cakes, and grilled sandwiches (best choice here), as well as a non-free Wi-Fi connection. Also at Aleja Józefa Piłsudskiego 15/23.
  • Hort-Cafe, ul. Piotrkowska 106/110. Essentially an ice-cream cafe, Hort boasts a selection of cakes and tarts delivered from the adjacent bakery, decent choice of tea and coffee, and even several savory meals (pancakes, kotlety) served until 7PM. The interior is somewhat retro-style, while the mandatory 1 zł charge for the cloakroom is also reminiscent of old and mildly annoying traditions. Free Wi-Fi.
  • Kawiarnia Syrena, ul. Piotrkowska 66. Also known as "u Husajna" or "chez Hussein" offers good coffee, huge ice-cream desserts, milkshakes and truly international atmosphere.
  • Mała Litera (Bookshop-Cafe), ul. Nawrot 7. It is an artistic bookshop with books mostly in English, big range of CDs (mostly classical and ethnic music) and a small cafe. It is one of few places in Łódź where they know how to make a good macchiato. Concerts and meetings with artists are often organized in the evenings. Free Wi-Fi (ask staff for password).
  • Niebieskie Migdały, ul. Sienkiewicza 40 and ul. Piotrkowska 200, +48 609 511 484. Offers a wide selection of reasonably priced teas in very pleasant, quiet and comfortable surroundings. Indeed, after five minutes you'll soon forget that you're in Poland's second largest city.

Sleep

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under 100 PLN
Mid-range 100 PLN to 300 PLN
Splurge Over 300 PLN

Łódź lacks cheap hostel accommodation, but with generally low prices for the mid-range hotels, everyone should be able to find something suiting their needs. A few years ago, the situation on the hotel market was very poor indeed and there were no 4-star hotels. Nevertheless, when andel's hotel was built, the situation has dramatically changed and now every year new high-end hotels are being built. It may be wise to choose one of the hotels in the city center as this will reduce the time you need to spend on the public transport or in taxis. Łódź is a fairly compact city, and while most attractions are located centrally, you need to travel some distances to a few other attractions that are on the outskirts.

Budget

  • Hotel Boss Łódź**, ul. Tatrzańska 11, +48 42 676 31 13, . 24h. TV in every room, parking free for all guests, tasty traditional food in hotel's restaurant. 59 PLN single room, 118 PLN double room, 12 PLN breakfast.
  • Hotel Boss, al. Piłsudskiego 141, +48 42 674 07 36, . Few minutes by public transport from ul. Piotrkowska, in calm area, close to main roads. Free WiFi, free parking, restaurant and pub. Each room with TV and bathroom. 90 PLN single room, 120 PLN double room, 20 PLN breakfast.
  • 1 Hostelling International Youth Hostel, ul. Legionów 27 (near ul. Piotrkowska), +48 42 630 66 80, fax: +48 42 6306683, . The rooms are clean, but very basic in terms of amenities. The hostel hosts large groups of young children that often run around the halls screaming. There's also a curfew requiring guests to be in the hostel no later than 22:59, though its possible to come back at a later time, when arranged in advance. 30+ zł (ca. $10+ per person) per night.


  • 3 LaGranda Hostel, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 48 (near Manufaktura), +48 42 239 87 08, . is a nice place run by a group of young locals in the form of democratic co-operative. Below the hostel is small cafe. 39 - 45 PLN (ca. $12+ per person).
  • 5 Helenowek, ul. Okulickiego 10b, +48 42 658 22 39, . In the northern outskirts of town, right by a large forest and with a pond on site. Tram connection (25-30 min. to the centre). Has a variety of singles, doubles/twins and bigger rooms, which are all en-suite (prices start from 75 zł).
  • 6 Syrenka, ul. Zachodnia 56, +48 42 633 38 69. Cheap hotel (shared bathroom facilities). Rooms with satellite TV 10 zł extra, showers 5 zł per use. 50 zł single, 70 zł double.

Mid-range

  • 7 Hotel Ambasador Chojny, ul. Kosynierów Gdyńskich 8, +48 42 646 49 04. In the southern part of the city in a small park. Free parking, swimming pool and sauna included in the room price. The hotel restaurant is a popular place to hold a wedding reception. Up to $90 for a.
  • 9 Boutique Hotel's, ul. Rewolucji 1905 roku 8 (near Manufaktura shopping center), +48 42 630 63 15, . Newly built, free wi-fi and parking for guests, tv lcd with cable in every room, breakfast 21 PLN. 144 PLN for single room 188 PLN for double.
  • mHOTEL, ul. św. Teresy 111 (near Szczecińska Street), +48 42 652 99 90, fax: +48 42 655 72 10, . A conference hotel completely outside of the city center in the north-western part of the town. If you stay there, be prepared for a commute to see the attractions.
  • Hotel Polonia Palast, ul. Narutowicza 38 (close to Łódź Fabryczna railway station), +48 42 632 87 73, . One of the oldest hotels in the city. A few years ago it lost its stars, which meant that it could not be called a hotel any more. However, in 2009 after a complete overhaul, the hotel has regained its 2 stars.
  • Hotel Savoy, ul. Traugutta 6, +48 42 632 93 60, . Built in the 1912, it is a very well-known building among the locals. Not so posh and glamorous anymore, but still staying there is said to be like moving to the 1920s.

Splurge

  • 15 andel's Hotel Łódź, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), +48 42 279 10 00, fax: +48 42 279 10 01, . A very original hotel in an adapted historical textile manufacture next to Poznański Palace. It won the "Architecture of the Year" in 2009 in the European Hotel Design Award competition.
  • 16 Grand Hotel, ul. Piotrkowska 72, +48 42 633 99 20. The Grand Hotel is the oldest hotel in Lodz. 81 rooms including 7 apartments. Between $100 - $140.
  • 18 Nowa Gdynia SPA & Wellness Resort (Stacja Nowa Gdynia), ul. Sosnowa 1 (Just outside Łódź in the direction of Zgierz. Well-connected using public transport (tram lines 11, 16 and 46)), +48 42 714 21 61, fax: +48 42 714 21 62, . Located outside Łódź, this is a SPA resort with many attractions like a sports center or an aquapark. Weekdays 390 PLN for a double room, weekends 330 PLN.

Connect

Postal service

There are numerous post offices in Łódź. The main post office is located on Tuwima 38 Street in a century-old building. Do not be misguided by the name, the main post office is not open 24/7 (but the one next to Łódź Kaliska station is).

  • 24/7 Post Office, ul. Włókniarzy 227 (Next to Łódź Kaliska station). Open 24/7.
  • Main Post Office, ul. Tuwima 38 (On the intersection with Kilińskiego Street). Open 8-20 weekdays, 9-14 Saturdays.

Internet

There are some Internet cafes on Piotrkowska and nearby streets and most bars and restaurants have WiFi, just ask the staff. There's also free WiFi in Manufaktura centre and at Łódź Airport.

  • 2 PWN Bookshop, ul. Więckowskiego 13 (corner with Zachodnia, just by Teatr Nowy). 10:00 - 18:00. You won't get coffee here but the staff is very nice and the bookshop itself has a good choice of academic books (not only). The building served a Jewish school between 1945 and 1968. Free WiFi.

Stay safe

Łódź has a rough reputation among Polish people from other cities, largely thanks to well-publicized events that shocked Poland in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Today, Łódź is a safe place. Contrary to typical newcomer's fears, the crime rate is relatively low and according to statistics is much lower than in any other large city in Poland (only 39 crimes per 1000 citizens were reported in the city in 2008). Also, violent crime is very rare. Some basic advice though:

Watch out for pickpockets. A common trick for thieves is to operate in groups and create artificial crowds on buses and trams which distract their victims' attention prior to being pickpocketed. Also, do not leave your belongings unattended and keep you wallet in your front pockets.

Do not visit the city parks after dark. During the day you are perfectly safe, but almost all city parks are open also during the night and there have been reported cases of muggings.

Avoid the following places. Even though the city is safe, the locals will tell that you should avoid certain places if going alone. These are: Włókiennicza Street (also a small part of Wschodnia and Kilińskiego Streets that is in the proximity of Włókiennicza), Abramowskiego Street, Solna Street and Limanowskiego Street.

Avoid displaying football-related emblems. The hooligan scene in Łódź is quite large and very divided. You never know who you will meet, so it is safer to keep your football affections to yourself. This is especially important during the local derby between ŁKS and Widzew football clubs. This advice holds for every Polish city.

Be careful when using pedestrian crossings. Even though pedestrians have right-of-way on pedestrian crossings, some Polish drivers do not respect that. So please be careful and always make sure that there are no cars approaching when you decide to cross the street. This applies to all Polish cities.

Beggars

Łódź hasn't been developing residentially quite as rapidly as some other more successful Polish cities recently and has some of the most deprived urban areas in Poland, but such issues are handled by the government and (especially) NGOs.

Do not ever give any money to beggars. This advice should apply to any Polish, European or global city. There is always the possibility of such individuals being thieves looking to take advantage or "professionals", who make up to $1–2k/month during the tourist season (quite a salary in Poland).

If you are keen to help, consider donating to an accountable charity, like the Polish Red Cross or Caritas Polska. If you still want to give something to a beggar, offer buying food for them (and notice their reaction).

Cope

Łódź is a safe and friendly city, very eager to receive foreign visitors. The average English level of Łódź residents is high, especially among young people. Older generations are more fluent in Russian and German. However, directions to major sights are not well-marked and you are best off with a map at hand. Do not be afraid of asking directions, as people will almost always try their best to help you! It will be very well perceived if you learn at least a few Polish words like "dziękuję" (thank you) or "proszę" (please). See the phrasebook [19] for more Polish words and their pronunciation.

Religious services

  • Church of St. Theresa (Kościół Świętej Teresy od Dzieciątka Jezus i Świętego Jana Bosko), ul. Kopcińskiego 1/3, +48 42 678 35 22. The Holy Mass in English is held every Sunday at 10AM in one of the rectory rooms.
  • Synagogue (Synagoga/Bożnica przy Pomorskiej), ul. Pomorska 18, +48 42 6320427. Services are held every morning and afternoon. Kabbalat Shabbat services usually start at 5PM in winter and 6PM in summer but it is worthwhile to call the Community Office and ask for exact times before coming. This is an Orthodox synagogue: services are in Hebrew, women and men sit in separate sections, men are expected to have their heads covered, and everyone should dress modestly.

Consulates

  • Latvia Latvian consulate, Al. Tadeusza Kosciuszki 35 90-418, +48 42 633 97 68.
  • Moldova Moldovan consulate, ul. Srebrzyńska 83, 94-209 Lodz Poland, +48 42 207-30-30.

Laundries

Go next

Łowicz regional costumes

Useful for day trips:

  • Łęczyca, a medieval town located about 40 km north of Łódź with a royal castle, knight tournaments, old churches and Festival of Film Trailers. About 1 hour by train from Łódź Kaliska bus station or by coach from Lutomierska and Zachodnia streets intersection.
  • Łowicz is famous for colorful regional costumes and folk art. It is located about 60 km north-west of Łódź (about 1 hour 15 minutes by train or bus from Łódź Kaliska station). Boasting rich history, Łowicz also houses the old residence of Polish archbishops, numerous churches, monasteries and museums.
  • Nieborów has a splendid baroque palace with a large park, and is located just a stone's throw from Łowicz
  • Arkadia is an English-style, large romantic park with artificial ruins. To get there, first go to Łowicz and then take a bus (PKS) in the direction of Skierniewice that stops in Arkadia and Nieborów.
  • Inowłódz is a small village south-east of Łódź, just beyond Tomaszów Mazowiecki. There is a famous, almost 1000 years old church there.
  • Spała is a village right before Inowłódz. There is the Spała Landscape Park and the village is known throughout Poland for its spa resorts and luxurious hotels.

Large cities nearby:

  • Warsaw, the capital of Poland, with much to offer to any type of tourist. The fastest way to get there is to take the train from Łóź Kaliska or Łódź Widzew station, or travel by car or coach over the A2 highway that connects both cities.
  • Poznań, one of the largest cities in Poland and home to the country's oldest cathedral. Located about 200 km west by same A2 highway.
  • Toruń is one of the oldest Polish towns and the birthplace of Copernicus. Located about 160 km north of Łódź by A1 highway (a half of it still under construction).


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