Ulcinj
Ulcinj (Cyrillic: Улцињ, Albanian: Ulqin or Ulqini) is the most southern coastal town of Montenegro.
Understand
Ulcinj is the southern most major town along the Montenegrin coast before reaching the border with Albania. The significant majority of the population is ethnic Albanian. Due to the town's nice location on the coast it is a major tourist destination of much of the Albanian population of Kosovo. Millennials usually speak English, older generations speak Italian, German or Russian.
Get in
- 1 Bus station (Autobuska Stanica Ulcinj), Totosi BB (30 minute walk from the Old town), ☏ +382 30 413 225. 24/7. Online time table [dead link]. Services: Infinity Snack bar & Internet cafe, 24 hrs supermarket, free Wi-Fi and a toilet (€0.50). Taxis from the bus station to the Old Town walls cost €3-5.
- 8 buses per day to Podgorica, 2 hours, €6. Regular buses to Budva and Kotor, €7-9.
- To Bar you can either take a normal bus or catch a 'combi' minibus (about half an hour, hourly).
- From Kosovo during the tourist season there are frequent buses leaving from the major cities. The price should be around €15. These can rarely be booked advance online, but a stroll round a major city centre will immediately show what is on offer (e.g. try the Bill Clinton Boulevard in Pristina. Buses leave from both Pristina and Ulcinj (at 7pm each day, 11 hours), making about 4 rest stops on the way (Bar – Podgorica – Pec (Kosovo)).
- From Albania there are 'combi' minibuses that come from Durres in Albania to Ulcinj, although they most likely are not official bus operations, so you'll have to do some asking around.
- There are also daily departures to Shkodra, Albania (06:00 and 12:30). These are, in theory, well connected with Albanian 'furgons' from Tirana and Durres. It takes 1 hour to Shkoder by "private" cab. If you are unable to find a bus or furgon you may try your luck in the area around the bus station. People may approach you (or you can just ask people) offering to take you to nearby Albanian towns and cities. During off-peak periods you may find someone willing to take you to Shkodra and bring you back the same day for around €20 to €30.
- Also direct buses (three times per week) to Split, Croatia via Dubrovnik.
- Buses to Novi Pazar, Serbia
- Sunday evening buses to Skopje, North Macedonia (via Shkodra (Albania) – Ohrid – Tetovo)
Get around
Ulcinj is a small city, you will have no problem getting around by foot, but keep in mind that some parts are very hilly. The hilly roads can become quite slippery when wet and many of the smaller streets have no sidewalks. If you're walking on such a street, keep to the dry areas and step aside when you hear an approaching vehicle to let them pass. Many people drive fast even with pedestrians on the road.
There are many stairs that lead down the hills that can be used to avoid long winding roads, but you'll have to look for the entrances, or use Google Maps Satellite imagery to see where the stairs are; they're nost marked and they often look like they lead into someone's home.
Taxi
- Pasha Taxi - ☏ +382 19745 (€2 minimal drive, €0.80 per km)
Car rental
- MCR - car rental and airport transfers to and from Ulcinj. ☏ +382 67 515 477
- Sixt - car rental and airport transfers to and from Ulcinj. ☏ +382 67 645 206
See
- 1 Ulcinj Old Town (Kalaja e Ulqinit, Stari grad Ulcinj). The oldest and most attractive cultural part of Ulcinj. It is an ancient Illyrian castle built by Ancient Greeks, conquered by various other nations, like Romans, Byzantines, Serbs, Venetians and Ottomans, and all of them having a impact on its architecture.
- 2 Svač (Shas, Šas), Šas bb. Svač is medieval town in ruins located near Šasko lake. There are ruins of some 13 century churches, the legend says there were 365 churches in total. Built by Slavs, it was conquered by Mongols and Ottomans.
- 3 Pasha's Mosque (Xhamia e Pashës, Pašina džamija), Buda Tomovica bb. A Ottoman-built mosque in 1719 by admiral Kılıç Ali Paşa is one of the oldest mosques in Montenegro. It is the only complex that has a hamam (turkish bath) in the country.
- Clock Tower (Sahat Kula). An Ottoman clock tower built in 1754.
- Monument ''Freedom'' (Spomenik ''Sloboda''), Pinješ bb. Communist monument built by Serbian sculptor Miodrag Živković in 1985.
Do
Ulcinj is a splendid central location for exploring Montenegro's South Coast region (from Bar to Skadar Lake to Ada Bojana) and parts of Albania. The Ulcinj South Coast region boasts some of the most interesting adventure, historical and eco tours, and vacation beach stays in all of the Adriatic.
- Velika Plaža Beach (Long Beach). There are good beach spots in the area, including some rocky ones in the southern part of town. The longest sandy beach in Montenegro, Velika Plaža, is located near by. At the Southern end of this 12km-long beach there is Ada Bojana.
- Ada Bojana (There are minibuses that take you from the market on Skenderbeu Ave in Ulcinj to Velika Plaža and even to Ada Bojana (if there are at least 3 people going there). Alt place for minibuses is near Palma restaurant.). Ada Bojana, a triangular island with sandy beaches, formed by a river delta of the Bojana River and the Adriatic Sea. The island is a favourite spot for kitesurfers and windsurfers and it has a large nudist beach for those so inclined. You will have to pay 6 Eur/day yo access.
- Ušće (begins just on opposite side of Ada Bojana island and stretch in one direction to Velika plaža and in other direction to the Bojana River coast). Area is very similar to Ada Bojana, with two main differences. There is no nudist beach and place is filled with campers and young people looking for rest during the day and party in the night.
- Go for a walk after sunset when the main street fills with people promenading and taking some fresh air.
- For the more adventuresome you can take the 'combi' towards the Albanian border (but not crossing it) getting off on the first road heading towards Lake Skadar near the town of Brajše. There is a small bus from Brajše that runs along this small road towards the mountains which if it's running you can take for €0.50, otherwise you'll have to walk or hitchhike. Once you get to the peak of the mountain range you'll be standing almost exactly on the Albanian and Montenegrin border. You'll be able to look out over one of the most magnificent lakes in Europe as well as get a good view of the Adriatic coast, Albania and Montenegro. Continue hitchhiking up the lake, you'll get to see some of the most rural untouched villages in the Balkans. The southern half of the lake shore is populated by ethnic Albanians while the northern half all the way up to the town of Virpazar is populated by Montenegrins. There is very little travel between the two communities so there are almost no buses that run the course of the highway meaning you'll either have to walk or hitchhike. The people driving the road though few and far between seem more than willing to take hitchhikers. If you camp (which is a good idea) there are some camp sites about halfway between Virpazar and Arbnez.
- A former salt factory just east of the city is now a Flamingo Reservation, entrance is free.
Eat
A few notes: fish restaurants calculate the price per 1 kg of raw fish. Example: one raw fish is about 500-600 grams, but when cleaned and cooked, it's around 200 grams. You get charged for 500-600 grams. If you see "scallop" on the menu anywhere, it's most likely not seafood but meat (veal). The great majority of restaurants serve halal food, and thus pork can be rarely found. Like in almost all Balkan towns you can find very good burek and ćevapi. Ulcinj's Albanians are one of the best and most skilled sweet food makers and bakers in former Yugoslavian area.
Budget
- Near the beach stalls sell kebab and hamburgers.
- Fast food cafe, Rr. Hafiz Ali Ulqinaku (2nd floor, above small store). Serve quite good falafel, french fries, kebabs. The owner seems to be from Middle East so he knows how to do this kind of food right. €1-3.
Mid-range
Restaurants near the beach and long the main road falls into this category with prices of main meals of €3-7.
- 1 Restaurant "Old Town" (beachfront). Amazingly fast prepared and good-tasting meals. One of the best options in the city. Big variety of food but mainly pizzas, pastas. Nice personnel, relaxed atmosphere. This place has a second floor terrace with fantastic views over the bay. €3-7.
- 2 [dead link] Restaurant Bella Vista, Rr. Hafiz Ali Ulqinaku. Extensive choice of food. Tastes quite good. But the portions aren't particularly large. They also have a daily menu which includes 3 meals, costs €10. Not a bad choice. €3-7.
- 3 La Tavola, Rr. Hafiz Ali Ulqinaku. Popular among tourists. But the food is of nothing special, even below average. They also provide complimentary drinks after you paid the bill. €3-7.
- Terra Promessa (In Old Town). Offering more reasonably priced food in the Old Town, but with spectacular sea views. Service is excellent and their staff can speak English, German, Russian, and Serb-Croat.
- Sapore di Mare, ☏ +382 69 294 871. Fresh fish and meat. €10.
Splurge
- There are lots of new restaurants in Stari grad (old town) that serve a wide range of food. Many of the restaurants have fantastic views of the ocean right from your table. Prices €7-30.
- 4 Restaurant Antigona (old town). Highly advertised restaurant. Serves only fish and another seafood; for some reason, not willing to cook other options from the menu. Server forces patrons to choose what he advises. €7-30.
Drink
Best bars are in area on the Mala plaža beach in the town, just beneath Old Town.
Sleep
Accommodation is plentiful in Ulcinj, ranging from resort hotels to private accommodations. The resort hotels in Ulcinj are each in the process of renovation and reconstruction, as most have been privatized from former government agencies. Lodging costs range from full-service rooms at €50 per person (or more in Jul and Aug) down to the many unlicensed/unregulated private accommodations costing in the range of €10-25.
Budget
- 1 Hostel Ulcinj-Montenegro, Kodre bb. (100 m from main Bus Station), ☏ +382 69 920190, +382 68 544 146, hostelulcinj@yahoo.com.
- 2 Stevo Guesthouse, Mala Plaza, Pristan (Bus station 2 km), ☏ +382 67 463006. Sgl/dbl from €12/20.
- 3 Apartments Prag, Rr. Hafiz Ali Ulqinaku/ Buda Tomovica 2 (Bus station 1,5 km). Eight rooms. Apts €18/30.
- 4 Casa Liburnia, Kosovska bb, 85360 Ulcinj (Situated 1 km from city center.), ☏ +382 30 403 056, fax: +382 30 403057, tivari@t-com.me.
- 5 Villa Dulsinea, Kosovska bb, 85360 Ulcinj, ☏ +382 67 804112, ulcinj@sohotravel.me. Six villas/rooms €21-39.
- 6 Hostel Pirate (Pirate Guesthouse), Nikole Djakonovica bb, Ulcinj, Montenegro (Once you are off the bus station and on the main road cross the street and go left towards city center.When you get to the traffic light turn right and walk up that street till you don`t reach Societe General and Erste bank. Cross the street, pass nearby playground and turn right again and walk for aprox 50 meters and then turn left and you will see the hostel 50 meters up on this street.), ☏ +38168212552, info@hostel-pirate.com. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 11:00. The first hostel in town, it has a large and cozy common area and a very well equipped kitchen with a dining area. It also has a large front yard with a barbecue that is free to use. Easy walking distance from the bus station and old town. €10 dorm, €27 double room.
Mid-range
- 7 [formerly dead link] Apartments Sidro, Hafiz Ali Ulqinaku 13, 85360 Ulcinj (Situated 500m from city center.), ☏ +382 30 421484, sidro.ulcinj@gmail.com. There are 40 beds in fifteen rooms. From €42.
- Antigona Apartment. Adjacent to Restaurant Antigona. Incredibly gracious host who speaks a little English. However, her daughter helps run the lodge and speaks fluent English. Fantastic balcony for watching the sunset.
Go next
- Shkodra, Albania — the first city after the border with Albania, also it is the biggest town in Northern Albania. The Rozafa Castle is a major tourist attraction here.
- Bar N 26 km — the biggest Montenegrin sea port.