Seville
- For other places with the same name, see Seville (disambiguation).
Seville (Spanish: Sevilla) is Andalucia's capital. With more than 700,000 inhabitants, and 1.6 million in the metropolitan area, it is Spain's fourth-largest city, dominating southern Spain. With heritage from the Arabs and from the Age of Discovery, as well as the flamenco scene, Seville is a diverse destination.
Understand
The smooth, slow Guadalquivir River flows through Seville, known as Betis by the Romans and as Betik Wahd-Al-Khabir by the Arabs. Since it is hard to navigate upstream from Seville, the cereal-producing region starts here, and Seville has been a busy port from Roman times, under Muslim rule, and exploding during the Age of Discovery. As the monopoly was broken and Cádiz largely took Seville's place, the city entered a period of relative decline.
In the 19th century Seville gained a reputation for its architecture and culture and was a stop along the Romantic "Grand Tour" of Europe. Seville has built on its tourism industry since, playing host to the International Exposition in 1992, which spurred the construction of a new airport, a new train station, a bullet train link to Madrid, new bridges and improvements to the main boulevards. Tourist facilities are top-notch and the city is buzzing with festivals, color and a thriving nightlife scene.
Get in
By plane
1 Sevilla Airport (SVQ IATA) is 10 km northeast of city centre on A-4. Ryanair fly from some 50 destinations (some seasonal) within Spain, across Europe (especially from Italy, Germany, UK and Ireland), and from Morocco. Iberia, Vueling and other carriers fly from Madrid, Mallorca, Asturias, Bilbao, Barcelona, Valencia, Tenerife, Lanzarote, Melilla in Spanish North Africa, and other European cities. It's only worth flying here from Madrid if you have a connecting flight, as the trains from the capital are so fast. The airport is a single terminal with Arrivals downstairs, with car hire desks and not much else. There are more groundside cafes and other facilities upstairs in the check-in hall. From there you pass through security and U-turn into the long airside mall. The first gates 1 & 2 have passport control for non-Schengen destinations, but don't enter these until an hour before your flight as they have no facilities except toilets. Cafes and shops line the first half of the mall.
To & from the city: Tussam Bus EA (for "Especial Aeropuerto") runs daily every 15 min from 05:00 to 00:30, fare €4 by cash on boarding. It runs from outside Arrivals, down Av de Kansas City to the main railway station, then loops with four stops around the south edge of city centre to the main bus station at Plaza de Armas. Total journey 40 min.
Taxis to town centre really shouldn't cost more than €25 for two of you, though they'll make out it's more today for the fiesta of St Strabismus and because your luggage is left-handed.
Jerez de la Frontera Airport (XRY IATA) is 100 km south of Seville and has fewer flights, so you'd seldom consider it.
By train
AVE trains blur across Spain hourly from Madrid Puerta de Atocha, taking 2 hr 40 min to Seville via Ciudad Real, Puertollano and Cordoba. Travel from Malaga, Jaen, Granada and Algeciras (for Morocco) usually means a change. Travel time from Cordoba is normally under 50 min, but an occasional slow train takes 1 hr 40 min and continues to Jerez de la Frontera and Cadiz. There are no trains across the nearby border with Portugal.
2 Seville Santa Justa Station is on Av de Kansas City 1 km east of city centre: the airport bus stops here. It's a modern, roomy building with luggage lockers, cafés and a TIC.
By car
Driving is also always an option for long distance travel in Spain, but isn't as convenient or as useful once in town. Public transportation works fine in the city, and most of the main tourist points are walking distance, so it is recommended finding a lodging with a garage or else researching the area for parking places before the trip.
Driving in the old city is tricky but possible. There is a 45-minute limit on cars entering the old city M-Sa 08:00 and 22:00. It is enforced by licence plate scanners placed at entrances to the old city. There is a €200 fine for exceeding this limit. Your rental company will be sure to tack on its €50 processing charge, not to mention the late fees that will accumulate due to the time it till take to receive the citation in your home country.
There is very cheap parking available across the street from Av. de Málaga, 12. The lot is unguarded and if there is not agent in the booth then the entrance to the lot is free of charge. Do not give money to the panhandlers loitering outside pretending they are lot attendants. If they have not receipt to give you then its a scam. Be sure leave absolutely nothing in the car. Seville in general is known for car break-ins.
Another very common option is using carpooling such as BlaBlaCar, a safe transportation method used by many locals.
By bus
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Inter-city buses run to 3 Plaza de Armas bus station by the riverside just west of city centre. Alsa is the main operator, but Socibus operate several routes including from Madrid. Buy in advance (online or at the station) especially at busy times, as buses can sell out. Buses may also run to (or call at) 4 Prado de San Sebastián near the University and Santa Cruz, and to the railway station. The airport bus calls at all three stations.
There are direct buses from Madrid (six daily, 6 hr), Valencia (two daily, 12 hr), Córdoba (six daily, 2 hr), Granada (hourly, 3 hr), Malaga (six daily, 3 hr), Cádiz and Jerez de la Frontera (hourly, 2 hr, as part of longer TGM lines to Cartagena, Almeria and Granada), and from Portugal four daily from Faro (90 min) and Lisbon (7 hr).
Get around
Walking is the best option for sight-seeing: Seville is a large city but the points of interest are in the compact old centre. Strolling and coming across fine old churches, charming cafes and hidden plazas is part of the experience of being here.
Buses run frequently and cover the majority of the city in their routes. You can purchase bus cards at many news stands. Trips cost 60c or 70c, and it costs €1.50 to buy a refillable bus card (which can be topped up at many newsstands).
Scooters are available for rent for €30 for the day and €120 for the week. These are a cost-efficient way of getting around and a driver's license is not necessary.
Trams run from Prado de San Sebastian at the south end of the centre, up Av de la Constitución past the cathedral, to end at Plaza Nueva. So it's barely 2 km of track, through an area that you'll probably prefer to walk. Extension west to Triana and north to the railway station may happen in some indefinite mañana.
Metro: you're unlikely to use it as it doesn't run near the old town, or other sights or accommodation. Its sole line follows an arch, from the southwest burbs to south end of city centre stopping at Plaza de Cuba, Prado de San Sebastian and San Bernardo, then out to the southeast burbs. It runs Su-Th 06:30-23:00, until 02:00 on Friday and Saturday nights. Tickets are €1.30 for a single zone or €4.50 for all 3 zones unlimited trips.
Taxis are easily accessible throughout the city. Many offer decent rates, but some cabbies are crooked.
Sevici bikes. Seville has a system of automated bike rentals with stations all over town. You pay €10 for the week, and can use any bike that's available. You drop it off at the station nearest to where you're going. Once you're registered, trips of 30 minutes or less are free. If you go over 30 minutes, it's €1 for the 1st hour, €2 for each additional hour. Seville is building many bike paths: one pleasant route covers most of the east bank of the river.
- Centerbici, C/ Espronceda, 5, ☏ +34 954 211044, marketing@centerbici.com. 09:00 - 20:00. Bike rental and guided tours. €20.
See
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The Sevilla Card is designed to aid city exploration and save you money. The card includes free admission to most Seville museums and monuments, unlimited use of public transportation (TUSSAM Buslines, but only for Cards with Public Transport), a guided visit of the Real Alcazar of Seville, unlimited use of sightseeing buses, boat rides on the Guadalquivir river and admission to the Isla Mágica Theme Park. The card also allows access to significant discounts in shops, restaurants, shows and leisure centres for adults and children. The Sevilla Card is accompanied by a guide and city map. However, the Sevilla Card cannot be used for trams and buses.
The Sevilla card comes in three denominations of 1, 2 or 3 days’ duration in blocks of 24 hours from the time of first activation when inserted into the electronic validation terminal of the suppliers associated with the Sevilla Card Programme (be careful not to activate too soon).
Prices: 1 day €50 (with transport €53), 2 days €60 (with transport €66), 3 days €65 (with transport €72). The 2- and 3-day options attract a discount of €3 per card when purchased on the website.
The Sevilla Card can be purchased by the following means: online ticketbar; by ☏ +34 91 600 21 21, +34 902 088 908; and, once in Seville, at tourism offices, the airport, the train station, travel agencies and through national and international tour operators (check the website for addresses).
A less expensive version, the Sevilla Card Cultura, is valid only for museums (1 day €28, 2 days €32, 3 days €36). 5% less if purchased online.
If you are want to use the local buses tussam, you can get either pay the €1.40 single fare price or you can purchase a bonobus, a 10-trip travel card. Bonobuses are found at most kiosks and tabacarias (tobacco shops). Regular times are kept until around 23:30, after which night buses run, with different routes, on the hour until 02:00.
Landmarks
- 1 Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla), Avenida de la Constitución, ☏ +34 902 09 96 92, info@catedraldesevilla.es. Jul-Aug: M 09:30-14:30, Tu-Sa 09:30-14:00, Su 14:30-18:00; Sep-Jun: M 11:00-15:30, Tu-Sa 11:00-17:00, Su 14:30-18:00. Huge 15th-century church on the site of the former great mosque; richly decorated with the central nave rising to 37 m. An ornate canopy and statue marks the final resting place of Christopher Columbus. If there's a queue for tickets then go to the nearby Church of Salvador (Iglesia del Salvador) and buy a combi ticket. Cathedral admission includes La Giralda, the minaret that is now the magnificent bell tower. Within, you ascend 34 ramps - no need to keep count as they're tallied on the wall - then a last short flight of steps brings you onto the viewing terrace. The west facade of tower and terrace is closed off for renovation. Adult €10, concessions €5.
- 2 Real Alcázar, Enter from Plaza del Triunfo, ☏ +34 912 302 200, alcazar@patronato-alcazarsevilla.es. Apr-Sep: daily 09:30-19:00; Oct-Mar: daily 09:30-17:00. A beautiful palace in Mudéjar (Moorish) style, built in the 14th century by Pedro I the Cruel. With its myriad rooms, extravagant architecture, lavish gardens with many courtyards, ponds and secrets to be explored, it is a fascinating place to visit. The room where Christopher Columbus's journey across the Atlantic was planned has his coat of arms embroidered on the wall along with those of royalty. In the heat of summer the palace is a cool retreat from the sun's glare, and there are night tours Mar-Oct. It gets busy in high season: buy tickets online in advance, and only from the official website. The Royal Apartments are open to tours whenever the royal family aren't using them. Adult €11.50, concessions €2, plus Royal Apartments €4.50.
- 3 Hospital de los Venerables (Diego Velázquez Research Centre), Plaza de los Venerables 8 (in the Barrio Santa Cruz), ☏ +34 95 456 26 96, fax: +34 95 456 45 95, focus@abengoa.com. M-F 10:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00. A 17th-century retirement home and hospital for aged and sickly retired priests, restored by the Fundación to preserve an example of Andalusian architecture at its very best. Includes a resplendent Baroque chapel which is highly recommended, as well as the Santa Rufina painted by Diego Velázquez. €4.75 with audio guide.
- Barrio Santa Cruz is the old Jewish Quarter, the winding narrow lanes just east of the cathedral and north of Alcázar. It's the most charming part of the city, with lots of bars and eating places, but it's also the most touristy.
- 4 Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, ☏ +34 954 22 24 19. M-F 09:30-18:45, Sa Su 10:30-18:45; holidays closed. A 13th-century tower, the top of which is rumored to have once been covered in gold. It now houses the local maritime museum. €3 adults, €1.50 seniors/students/children 6-14, free children under 6; €2 for audioguide.
- 5 Parque María Luisa (near the Plaza de España). Built for the 1929 Iber-Americano World's Fair and now landscaped with attractive monuments and museums.
- 6 Palacio de Las Dueñas (Las Duenas Palace), Calle Dueñas 5 (in the Historical Centre near Las Setas), ☏ +34 95 421 48 28, info@lasduenas.es. Apr-Sep: M-Sa 10:00-20:00; Oct-Mar: M-Sa 10:00-18:00. Las Dueñas is a palace belonging to the House of Alba. It was built in the 15th century, with Renaissance architecture style and Gothic-Mudejar influences. The palace is one of the major historic homes in the city. The poet Antonio Machado was born here in 1875. It is also said that Amerigo Vespucci married in this chapel at the beginning of the 16th century. The Palace has a great collection of paintings (Ribera, Luca Giordano, Neri de Bicci), ceramics, antique furniture and other decorative arts, sculptures of Ancient Rome and contemporary (Mariano Benlluire), Flemish tapestries (Willem de Pannemaker), mosaics, and many other pieces of art. An important site for understanding Andalusian customs and history. Fee: €10 with audio guide, ask for reduced prices.
- 7 Plaza de España. The site of the Spanish pavilion from the 1929 exhibition. It was also used in the filming of the Star Wars prequels. It is somewhat in need of repair. Visit it early in the morning on a weekday to see a long line of immigrants outside one of the government offices it now houses, or visit it right before it closes (officially at 22:00 but likely half an hour later) to see it completely empty and rather eerie.
- 8 Real Fábrica de Tabacos (Universidad de Sevilla), Calle San Fernando, 4, ☏ +34 954 55 10 00. During term time only: M-F 10:00-20:00, Sa 10:00-14:00. The main building of the University of Seville was once the Tobacco Factory of Seville, and was constructed between 1728 and 1771 by Sebastián Van der Bocht. Over the main entrance, the triangular façade ends in a statue of La Fama (fame). The tobacco factory was then the largest industrial building in Spain. A monopoly assured high income, which is reflected in the factory's architecture and surrounding gardens. Its chapel and prison complement the main building. In the interior you find impressive stairways, fountains and Patios. It was the setting for the first act of Bizet's opera Carmen. In 1953 the factory was converted into the main building of Seville University. Just behind the tobacco factory, the María Luisa Park borders the historic centre of Seville to the south. Free.
- 9 Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Palace of the Countess of Lebrija), Calle Cuna, 8, ☏ +34 954 22 78 02, fax: +34 954 50 10 29. M-F 10:30-19:30 (Jul Aug 09:00-15:00), Sa 10:00-19:00 (Jul Aug 10:00-14:00), Su 10:00-14:00 (Jul Aug closed). The palace is considered the 'best paved house-palace in Europe' owing to its collection of Roman mosaics, which paved practically the whole of the ground floor. There is also a collection of well parapets, vases, amphora, columns and sculptures of incalculable worth. On the upper floor you can visit the residences previously inhabited by the Countess and her descendants, up to only a few years ago; extremely well-preserved, they are today filled with ornaments and furniture from all over the world, priceless artwork by Van Dyke, Bruegel, Alonso Cano, among others, as well as collections of porcelain and glass. €5 ground floor only, €8 both floors.
- 10 Casa de Pilatos, Plaza de Pilatos, 1, ☏ +34 954 22 52 98, fax: +34 954 21 90 12, casapilatos@fundacionmedinaceli.org. Nov-Mar: daily 09:00-18:00, Apr-Oct: daily 09:00-19:00. A 16th-century palace and generally thought to be one of the best in the city. €8; free on Mondays after 13:00.
- 11 Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop's Palace), Plaza Virgen de los Reyes. It is in the historical section of the city and is home to various clergy and the Archbishop. On the outside you only can catch a glimpse of the patio but on the inside there are important works of art. Free.
- 12 Archivo General de Indias (General Archive of the Indies), Avenida de la Constitución, 3 (next to Alcazar), ☏ +34 954 50 05 28. 16 Sep – 15 Jun: M-F 08:00-15:00; 16 Jun – 15 Sep: M-F 08:00-14:30. This Renaissance building houses extensive archives relating to the Spanish conquest of the Americas, and is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Included in the collection are the diaries of Columbus. The archive hosts rotating special exhibits. Free.
- 13 Metropol Parasol, Plaza de la Encarnación (bus 27/32, metro T1), ☏ +34 606 63 52 14. Su-Th 10:30-24:00, F Sa 10:30-01:00. A enormous wooden structure designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer-Hermann, inspired by the Cathedral of Seville and in the form of giant mushrooms. Known to locals as 'las setas' (the mushrooms), the structure covers the Central Market and the Antiquarium; the top level contains a restaurant and provides some of the best views of Seville. €3; free for children under 12, disabled, and Seville residents.
Museums and galleries
- 14 Museo de Bellas Artes, Plaza del Museo, 9, ☏ +34 955 542 942, fax: +34 955 542 148, museobellasartessevilla.ccd@juntadeandalucia.es. 16 Sep – 31 May: Tu-Sa 10:00-20:30, Su and holidays 10:00-17:00; 1 Jun – 15 Sep: Tu-Sa 09:00-15:30, Su and holidays 10:00-17:00. Considered by some as the second most important fine arts museum in Spain after the Prado in Madrid. The museum building is a former mercy convent renewed in the 17th century and the 15 exhibition rooms show a comprehensive picture of Sevillian art from the Gothic period to the early trends of the 20th century. The square just outside hosts an open-air art market on Sundays until around 13:30. Plenty of original paintings on local topics, although some not so interesting bits as well! €1.50; free for EU citizens.
- 15 Museo de Carruajes, Plaza de Cuba, 10, ☏ +34 954 27 26 04, fax: +34 954 27 29 95, itb@rcea.net. 1 Sep – 15 Jun: M-Th 09:00-14:00 17:00-19:30, F 09:00-14:00; 16 Jun – 31 Aug: M-F 09:00-14:00. A small museum with carriages of various kinds. €3.60 adults; €2.60 children, students, seniors; free for EU citizens; free admission on Tuesdays.
- 16 Museo Arqueológico de Sevilla (Seville Archeology Museum), Plaza de América, ☏ +34 955 12 06 32, fax: +34 955 12 05 89, museoarqueologicosevilla.ccd@juntadeandalucia.es. 16 Sep – 31 May: Tu-Sa 10:00-20:30, Su and holidays 10:00-17:00; 1 Jun – 15 Sep: Tu-Sa 09:00-15:30, Su and holidays 10:00-17:00. It has one of the best collection of Roman-era artifacts in Spain, brought from nearby Italica. €1.50; free for EU citizens.
- 17 Museo Antiquarium, Plaza de la Encarnación (underground level of the Metropol Parasol), ☏ +34 955 471 581. Daily 11:00-14:00, 15:00-20:00. A museum with excavated Roman and Moorish remains, discovered during construction of the Metropol Parasol. €2.
Do
- Cruises, an hour in duration, leave from beneath the Torre del Oro and travel a circuit on the Guadalquivir river.
- Horse-drawn carriage rides found near the cathedral take you to the nearby park and other sites of interest. For the sake of the animals, try to avoid carriage rides in the heat of the day in summer.
Flamenco
Flamenco is very popular in Spain and is not just for tourists; however finding the right place is hard. Poke around the neighbourhood of El Arenal, following the sounds of flamenco music to find a place.
- 1 Museo del Baile Flamenco, Calle de Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, ☏ +34 954 34 03 11. Daily: museum 10:00-19:00, performances 19:00-20:00. Offers an experience for all the senses with ambiental music, videos, touch-screens and artifacts to be found in this 18th century building at the heart of the historical Barrio Santa Cruz. On Friday and Saturday evenings a spectacular show is hosted at a discounted price for visitors to the museum. Flamenco art and photography exhibitions are also on display and dance, singing, percussion and guitar lessons are offered. Museum: €10 adult, €8 senior, €6 child; performances: €20 adults, €14 senior, €12 child.
- 2 La Casa del Flamenco (Cultural Centre), Calle Ximénez de Enciso, 28, ☏ +34 955 02 99 99. Daily autumn/winter 19:30, spring/summer 21:00. A good spot to see real flamenco. €18.
- 3 La Carbonería, Calle Céspedes, 21 A (near the cathedral), ☏ +34 954 21 44 60. 21:30, 22:30, and 23:30 daily. Offers free flamenco shows nightly. Arrive early for good seats.
Festivals
- Semana Santa. The sombre Easter week processions feature thousands of people and go on all week, a spectacular display of conspicuous Catholicism.
- 4 Feria de Abril (Seville Fair). Also known as "Feria de Sevilla" - a release after the somberness of Semana Santa. To say this is a huge party would be an understatement. Most if not all of Seville takes a week's holiday and they plan for the fair months in advance. The fair is close to the river. It covers a huge area and contains hundreds of private and public casetas which are laid out to form streets. Casetas are small marquees and you can only get into the private ones if invited. The public ones are large but just as much fun. The day is naturally split in two and between 12:00 and 20:00 the streets of the fair throng with horses as riders and carriages strut their stuff dressed in traditional Spanish robes. After 20:00 the streets are cleared and "Calle del Inferno" comes to life. This must be one of the best funfairs in Europe – it takes weeks to assemble and pack up. Experience traditional dress, flamenco dancing (and the "sevillanas", the traditional dance of the region of Seville), guitars, fino, great tapas and participants who dance with gusto and eat and drink the day and night away.
Sport and outdoor activities
- Watch football ie soccer. Seville has two football teams playing in La Liga, the top tier of Spanish football: Real Betis and Sevilla FC:
- 5 Real Betis (Benito Villamarin Stadium), Avenida de Heliópolis (Near Reina Mercedes Campus (By the end of Avenida de la Palmera)), ☏ +34 955 46 39 55. Capacity 60,700.
- 6 Sevilla FC (Ramon Sanchez-Pizjuan Stadium), Calle Sevilla Fútbol Club (next to Plaza Nervion), ☏ +34 902 51 00 11. Capacity 42,500.
- 7 Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza (Bull ring), Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, 12, ☏ +34 954 22 45 77. Nov-Apr 09:30-19:00, May and Oct 09:30-20:00, Jun-Sep 09:30-23:00; on bull fighting days 09:30-15:00. Bullfighting is not a sport for all; those who are either squeamish or have convictions on animal welfare should stay clear, as the event concludes with the killing of the bulls. Failing that, a visit to the arena and the attached museum of bull-fighting is well worth the time. While it is not the largest, it is considered the most attractive bull arena in Spain due to its history. €7 adult, €4 senior or student, €3 child 7-11, free for child under 6; free on M 15:00-19:00.
- Climb to the top of the Cerro de Carambolo for a view of the whole city. The hill is outside of the town but can be reached on the M-170, M-171, and M-173 from the Plaza de Armas bus station.
Learn
Take some Spanish classes or do activities in Spanish to get in touch with the locals.
- LaCasa Sevilla, ☏ +34 666 882 981, contact@lacasasevilla.com. A fun way to learn and practice some Spanish while doing activities and exploring the city.
Buy
Seville is home to many beautiful artifacts, some of the more popularly known are plates and Spanish tiles. Triana offers many ceramic factories where one can buy various tiles from authentic craftsmen. There are stores that custom design plates and tiles near the cathedral, especially in Calle Sierpes, but across the river in Triana are other worthwhile pottery stores. Depending on the time of year, but especially leading up to Christmas, there are a number of artisan fairs throughout the city.
- Wander through an open-air market. Vendors in many parts of the city sell on the streets, but on Sunday, when everything else is closed, a few spots really fill up. One market is behind the Alcampo shopping centre at Ronda del Tamarguillo on Avenida de la Paz (Bus lines 30, 36 from Prado de San Sebastian), but it is easily outdone by a large flea market, selling clothes, furniture, trash, books, shoes, CDs, food, tools, and probably everything else just northwest of Triana near Avenida Carlos III (off of the left-hand side of most tourist maps).
Boutiques
1 Alianzas Breda, Calle Balbino Marrón 3, ☏ +34 954 04 21 60, hola@alianzasbreda.com.
Clothing
Seville offers a wide variety of retail clothing, although generally at high prices. The main shopping district is home to all the big international and Spanish clothing lines (such as Zara who has at least 4 separate stores in Seville). The winding streets and alleyways of the Santa Cruz area (around the Cathedral) do a roaring trade in Spanish- and Andalusian-themed T-shirts and inexpensive flamenco dresses for little girls. The Corte Ingles (translated literally to "The English Cut") is a large chain of department stores throughout Spain selling clothes in the "American style".
- Toro de Fuego, Hernando Colon, 38 local 3, ☏ +34 954 215 176. An above-average and tasteful T-shirt boutique, offering a large number of variations on the popular "bull of fire" theme. Printing is high quality, the fabric is good quality and proprietor María Gutiérrez is friendly and helpful. T-shirts average €16 for all sizes.
- Bershka, Popular with the younger generation, Bershka has significant presence due to their clothing line with a distinct urban, or street culture feel.
- Blanco is particularly popular with young women in Spain and Europe. The trendy and free designs are colourful, comfortable and affordable.
- El Corte Inglés, The main building in Plaza del Duque has several floors of clothing. The same for the Nervión Plaza location outside the historic centre.
- Massimo Dutti, Men's and women's fashion chain caters to a more modern feel of clothing. The designs are formal but quite trendy and utilize excellent fabrics with urban and cosmopolitan details.
- Stradivarius, Known for its original, constantly changing fashion, the designs follow the latest trends in clothing and accessories.
- Zapatos de baile flamenco and Roberto Garrudo, Flamenco and equestrian fashion accessories since 1970 fashion. C/ Córdodoba 9. ☏ +34 954 218 419
Eat
Seville, like most Andalusian destinations, is known for its tapas. "Tapa", while it is associated with certain dishes, is actually a size and many restaurants or bars will offer a tapa, ½ ración (half serving, although sometimes enough to make a meal) and ración (serving) of the same dish. There are many great tapas places around the foot of the cathedral in the centre of town. You can't go wrong, simply order one of everything to find your favourite! Some typical tapas include tortilla española (potato omelet), pulpo gallego (Galician octopus), aceitunas (olives), patatas bravas (spicy potatoes), and queso manchego (sheep's milk cheese from the region of La Mancha in central Spain). Also be sure to try the jamón (ham), which you often see hanging above the bar. Most of the restaurants kitchens do not open before 20:30 in the evening. Though usually some easy to prepare meals are available before that time.
As the quality of food is considered of a great importance in Seville, most local bars will have very good food at a low price. For a authentic and interesting meal, stop at one of the many bars, especially one which doesn't offer English menus (the prices are likely to be lower!).
Some bars near the river, such as Pedalquivir and El Faro de Triana, offer a nice view but aren't as good of a deal in terms of the quality of the food. Another would be El Patio San Eloy (San Eloy 9, Sevilla) where the tapas can be a little hit and miss, but where the cool staggered seating steps, fabulous décor and fruity sangria; provide a wonderful respite from the heat of the day.
A good deal can more easily be had at less characteristic places such as Sloppy Joe's Pizza Inn and Papasá.
If you would like to purchase your own food, head down to one of the markets close to the centre of the city, such as in Plaza Encarnación. El Corte Inglés is a larger more popular department store that you can go to for almost every need.
Don't eat the oranges from the trees on the street, they have been sprayed to repel birds and taste awful.
If you're vegetarian, make sure you specify that you eat no fish or tuna as vegetarian only implies no flesh here.
- 1 Bodeguita Romero, Calle Harinas, 10, ☏ +34 954 229 556. Tu-F 09:00-17:00, 20:00-24:00; Sa 12:00-17:00, 20:00-24:00; Su 12:00-17:00. A classic neighbourhood bodega, very popular with locals and serving excellent tapas.
- Cafe-Bar Las Teresas, Calle Sta. Teresa, 2 (old town), ☏ +34 954 21 30 69. 10:00-00:00. A lively slice of ham heaven. Tourists and locals. If the sight of dead hogs hanging from the rafters offends you -- drink and eat elsewhere.
- Arabic food (since you need a break from tapas): lots of places, try Fez [dead link] on San Esteban 27 for Moroccan, or Rincon de Beirut on C San Fernando 21 for Lebanese.
- M.A.S. and Dia. These are two very popular grocery stores and have everything you need for much less money than El Corte Ingles. Additionally, Dia has its own discount brand on a lot of items. Though they are closed on Sundays (like most everything else in Sevilla) they are found throughout the city and are very easily accessible.
- La Manzanilla off of Calle de Alphonse. the food is cheap and delicious; has tapas.
- Habanita. in the centre of the city. Quiet open air restaurant with a very good selection of vegetarian and vegan foods
- Levies, Calle San José, 15, ☏ +34 954 225 096. M-Th 20:00-02:00, F-Su 20:00-03:00. Levies is a set of three restaurants in one small plaza, sharing table space and menus. The original Levies is a tapas restaurant with inexpensive jarras of sangria. The Taberna has a different menu and offers tapas as well as more Mexican-inspired dishes such as burritos and nachos. The third Levies is their wine and drinks bar.
- El Rinconcillo, The oldest tavern around, try the Espinacas con Garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) and Salmorejo, while watching the witty bartenders running around and writing your bill on the bar in front of you with, get this, chalk.
- Taberna Coloniales Plaza Cristo de Burgos 19. This tapas place is cozy and has only a few tables. Go there early to put your name on the board to get a table, then head inside for a couple of beers. Portions are large and food is very very good. Nice homemade desserts, too.
- Duo Tapas, Calle Calatrava, 10 (in the Alameda district), ☏ +34 955 238 572. 13:30-16:30, 20:30-00:00 daily. This bar offers a nice atmosphere and good food. The price is average and the size of the tapas is fair, but it may be crowded, so it's better not to go in a hurry, as you may need to wait for a table.
Drink
The nightlife of Seville is fantastic; no other European city has so many bars per inhabitant than Seville. In summer go to Isla Cartuja and find out why the Spanish night doesn't stop before 07:00. There you can find plenty of open-air discothèques. Other nightlife spots include Calle Betis in Triana, La Alamede de Hércules, and Plaza Alfalfa.
- There are quite a few teterias in Triana across the river offering teas, shakes and middle eastern pastries in a cozy cushion filled environment.
- Across from the cathedral sits a coffee shop called Cafe de Indias where you can buy delicious chocolate shakes and coffees. Down the street is a patisserie shop selling chocolate covered palmeras, a wonderful afternoon treat after a long day touring the sites. There are many coffee shops and patisserie shops in Seville, particularly in Calle Asunción in Los Remedios. Café de Indias, Starbucks and other franchises have descended lately on the city and are a good option in an emergency, but you can get a decent coffee in most local bars. For an up-market classic, visit La Campana, at the end of calle Sierpes.
- Don't miss Cervecería La Internacional, one of the best beer shops in Spain. More than 250 types of beer, wonderful tapas and good connections. It's in Calle Barcelona, 1 minute away from Plaza Nueva, near the Town Hall. However, do not get confused, it is international, meaning, not typically Sevillano.
- Sangría (an alcoholic fruit punch) is often sought by tourists, but Tinto de Verano (a mix of red wine and lemon or orange soda) is more authentic, has less alcohol, and is often cheaper.
- Cruzcampo, the local beer, is worth trying. Compared to other Spaniards, Sevillanos consume more beer and less wine.
- The tap water in Seville is good.
- Agua de Sevilla is sometimes thought of as a popular drink in Seville, but you will never see a person from Seville drinking it, despite all the tourists drinking it as if it were something popular.
Sleep
Most places have air conditioning but be sure to ask in summer, you'll need it. You will probably pass the siesta (early afternoon) in your room to escape the heat.
Sevillanos are famous for their nightlife so if you don't plan to be out at all hours yourself, then seek accommodation on a street without lots of bars and restaurants, or ask for a room set back from the street.
Budget
- 1 B&B Naranjo, C/ San Roque 11, ☏ +34 954 22 58 40. Budget hotel in old house near bus station, rooms are small with some on third floor, no elevator. Pleasant rooftop terrace. The a/c struggles in hot weather. B&B double €40.
- 2 Oasis Backpackers' Hostel, Calle Compañia 1, ☏ +34 955 22 82 87, sevilla@hostelsoasis.com. Clean friendly hostel with rooftop pool. Daily activities such as walking tours, Spanish classes, bar games. Dorm €25.
- 3 Oasis Backpackers' Palace Seville, Calle Almirante Ulloa 1, ☏ +34 955 26 26 96. Dorms in all sizes, lockers to put your backpack in and free linen. Roof-top terrace with chill-out bar to overlook Seville, guest kitchen, free breakfast and free internet/ wifi. Dorm €15.
- Sevilla Inn (Sevilla Backpackers Hostel), C/ Angeles 11, ☏ +34 605 90 32 35, bookingsevilla@innhostels.com. Great location 100 m east of Giralda. Spacious terrace with views of the cathedral. Dorm €15.
- 4 Triana Hostel (Triana Backpackers), C/ Rodrigo de Triana 69, ☏ +34 954 45 99 60, sevillatriana@gmail.com. Clean well-run hostel, painted ceramic tiles, and green plants among cozy sofas. Nice roof terrace with hammocks. Rooms are average-small for a hostel with creaky iron bunk beds, safety boxes and short of space. Free breakfast and 3 (slow) computers with internet access. It's 3 blocks from the river in a nice neighbourhood with narrow streets and old houses. Dorm €18.
Mid-range
- Hotel Pasarela, Avenida de la Borbolla 11 (100 m east of Plaza de Espana), ☏ +34 954 415 511. Clean friendly place just behind the big plaza. B&B double €50.
- 5 Hostal Callejón del Agua, Calle Corral del Rey 23, ☏ +34 954 21 20 98. Basic hotel, great location, very small rooms, street noise can be a problem. B&B double €70.
- 6 Hotel Abanico, Calle Aguilas 17, ☏ +34 954 21 32 07. 22-room hotel in 18th century town house, small rooms but value for money, good location. Watch your step as you come out as traffic hurtles along the narrow street. Double (room only) €55.
- 7 Hotel Abril, C/ Jerónimo Hernández 20, ☏ +34 95 422 90 46, info@hotelabril.com. In a quiet street near Encarnacion Square 500 m north of centre. Small and simple hotel but clean, comfy and good value for money. B&B double €40.
- 8 Hotel Bellavista Sevilla, Avenida de Bellavista 153 (10 km south of city on bus & metro route), ☏ +34 954 69 35 00, info@hotelbellavistasevilla.com. Mid-range out-of-town hotel opposite hospital complex with 104 rooms with a/c. Has a café with outdoor terrace and a la carte restaurant, 24 hours reception, meeting rooms, pool and parking. Pets are allowed though some visitors have had problems over this. B&B double €100.
- 9 Hotel Itaca, Calle Santillana 5-7, ☏ +34 954 22 81 56, fax: +34 954 21 27 47, sevilla@itacahoteles.com. Small hotel north of centre, tiny rooms, several are blind. Mostly clean and comfy but they get a lot of street noise. B&B double €80.
- 10 Hotel Las Casas de los Mercaderes, C/ Álvarez Quintero 9-13, ☏ +34 955 136 211, fax: +34 955 136 008, recepcion.mercaderes@aa-hoteles.com. Comfy 3-star in great location 300 m north of Giralda. Some street noise, and don't bring a car to this pedestrianised area. B&B double €85.
- 11 Hotel Monte Carmelo, C/ Virgen de la Victoria 7 (Los Remedios, west bank of river), ☏ +34 954 27 90 00. Efficient modern hotel, 10 min walk to Plaza de España. B&B double €110.
- 12 Hotel Monte Triana, Calle Clara de Jesús Montero, Triana (West of river, 1 km from old centre), ☏ +34 954 34 31 11. Simple hotel, clean and friendly, has parking. B&B double €100.
- 13 Hotel Murillo, Calle Lope de Rueda 7, ☏ +34 954 21 60 95, fax: +34 954 21 96 16, reservas@hotelmurillo.com. Small, clean friendly place in the Juderia. Small rooms and sometimes noisy but value for money. B&B double €50.
- [dead link] NH Plaza de Armas, C/ Marqués de Paradas (opposite main bus station), ☏ +34 954 90 19 92, nhplazadearmas@nh-hotels.com. Efficient modern hotel on west side of city centre. Rooftop pool, Wi-Fi, meeting rooms and a restaurant. B&B double €120.
- NH Viapol Hotel, Balbino Marrón 9 (San Bernado metro stop), ☏ +34 954 64 52 54, fax: +34 954 64 66 68, nhviapol@nh-hotels.com. Modern hotel 1 km east of old city, airport bus and other transport stops just outside. B&B double €120.
- 14 Hotel San Gil, C/ Parras 28, ☏ +34 954 90 68 11. 4-star going on 3, gets mixed reviews for comfort and service, 1 km north of city centre. Small rooftop pool and sun terrace. B&B double €65.
- Singular Apartments, C/ Escarpín 1, 2ª planta, Sevilla 41004, ☏ +34 954 21 01 02, info@singularapartments.com. Fully equipped apartments in 3 locations with large rooms and kitchens, also well suited for families or small groups. Room €70.
Splurge
- 15 Casa Romana, Trajano 15, ☏ +34 954 91 51 70. Comfy hotel 1 km north of city centre. B&B double €100.
- [dead link] Eme Catedral Hotel (formerly Fusion Hotel), Calle Alemanes 29 (north flank of cathedral), ☏ +34 954 56 00 00, reservas@emecatedralmercer.com. Comfy hotel in great location facing Giralda. B&B double €150.
- 16 Gran Melia Colón, Canalejas 1, ☏ +34 954 50 55 99. Plush hotel with spa, garage, restaurants and bars. B&B double €180.
- 17 Hotel Alfonso XIII, C/ San Fernando, 2, ☏ +34 954 917 000. Destination hotel, built for the Exposición in 1929, and converted into fabulous accommodation with prices to match. Has an outdoor pool, fitness centre, sauna and restaurant. Free Wi-Fi, public parking €22/day. Now part of Marriott. B&B double €300.
- Hotel Villa de la Palmera, Avenida de la Palmera 57. In an affluent section of Seville just outside the centre city of the city. The hotel is a former private home of the Marquis and Marquise of Castilleja, built in the early 20th century and renovated for use as a hotel in 1999. Services and amenities include breakfast and room service, pool, gardens and a terrace, free parking and free Wi-Fi internet access.
- Las Casas de la Judería, Callejón Dos Hermanas 7 (on C Santa Maria la Blanca, in Santa Cruz), ☏ +34 954 41 51 50. Upscale hotel next to a former synagogue. Splurge if you can on a suite, these are in the exquisite main building. Other rooms are in some three dozen nearby houses, pleasant enough but lacking the wowie-zowie factor. Double B&B standard €100, suite €200.
Connect
Local administration runs a free (1 hr) internet cafe right next to the tourist office in the centre. Alternatively, most coffee places and certain bars will have Internet connection free for customers. If the Internet connection is a priority, make sure you ask about it before sitting. Also, chains like McDonalds, Starbucks or Cafe de Indias offer Internet access.
Internet can also be accessed in cyber-cafes or "locutorios". In these businesses, you can have access to a computer and an Internet connection, paying by the minute or hour. They are not so prevalent nowadays, due to the pervasiveness of hand-held devices with Internet access, but they can be still found in some locations:
- 1 Cibercenter, C/. Julio César 8 (Not far from the main bus station), ☏ +34 954 22 88 99, cibercenter@cibercenter.es. Mon to Fri 9:00 to 14:00 and 17:00 to 22:00.
- 2 Internet Sevilla Locutorio, Calle San Fernando, 35 (in front of the University), ☏ +34 954 210 401. M-F 10:15-22:00; Sa Su 12:00-22:00.
Cope
Consulates
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- There are also consulates in the city for Bolivia, Colombia, Cuba, Morocco, Portugal and Sweden.
Go next
- Sierra de Aracena. Towards the North West of Sevilla, it is one of the most famous places for Jamón in Spain and full of lovely small villages to discover. Great for walking around, eating and exploring this Natural Park. There are numerous buses from Plaza de Armas Bus Station.
- Sierra Norte. Towards the North of Sevilla, it makes for a nice change from the monotonous landscape of the Guadalquivir Valley. It is an area of steep relief, olive groves, and deep river valleys. Deer, wild boar and other large animals are often seen from the car. The area is well known for its cured meats.
- Cordoba: remarkable old city with its moorish Mezquita, white-walled Jewish quarter and Medina Azahara archeological site; less than an hour by train.
- Granada has the must-see Alhambra palace and gardens.
- Cádiz has an attractive old town, the seaport that Christopher Columbus sailed from. It's easily reached by train or car.
- Huelva. Discovering a 19th-century British town in the middle of this Andalusian city is definitely remarkable. Huelva has an interesting history. Columbus left from Puerto de Palos and La Rabida Monastery, where he spent a few months it is well worth the visit. The wide and white beaches around, like Punta Umbria or Islantilla are also a good reason to visit and try fresh fish. Buses from Damas Bus Company every hour from Plaza de Armas Bus Station.
- Italica. A partially excavated Roman city, only a brief bus ride from Seville on the M-172 (from Plaza de Armas Bus Station). Most of it is lost under the village of Santiponce, but several streets and the footings of houses and public buildings with mosaic tiled floors can be seen. The highlight is one of the largest known Roman amphitheatres with seats for 25,000.
- In the summer, cruises are offered from beneath the Torre de Oro to Sanlucar de Barrameda at the mouth of the river.
- Madrid: the buzzing capital is less than 3 hours away by train.
| Routes through Seville |
 Cádiz ← Jerez ←  ← |
S  NE |
→ Córdoba → Madrid |
 Faro ← Huelva ← |
W  E |
→ ENDS AT AVENIDA EXPO '92 |