Turgutreis
Turgutreis is a resort in the Southern Aegean region of Turkey. It's on the west coast of the peninsula beyond Bodrum, and is the largest of the outlying resorts associated with that city. Its population is no longer separately enumerated but is probably close to the 20,705 recorded in 2013. This page covers the west coast strip from Turgutreis south to Akyarlar, while Gümüşlük the next resort north is described on its own page.
Understand
[edit]- "They have dared the white republics up the cape of Italy, they have dashed the Adriatic round the lion of the sea . . . "
That poem Lepanto by GK Chesterton commemorates the sea battle of 1571 when a western fleet checked Ottoman expansion in the Med, and the balance of power on land swung towards Austria-Hungary. But in the preceding decades, that expansion was swift and inexorable, and the outstanding Ottoman navy commander was Turgut Reis (1485-1565), also known as Dragut or Torghoud. He was born here in Karatoprak, and was all of 12 when his talent was spotted. He had a glittering career but was fatally wounded during the siege of Malta. He gives his name to several Turkish ships, such as the frigate F-241, and in 1972 Karatoprak was renamed Turgutreis in his honour.
It's possible that his family were Greek Christians, but the Ottomans captured Bodrum in 1522 and the area became Islamic. (Bodrum's previous holders, the Knights Hospitaller, scuttled off to Malta without battle but resisted the later siege there.) These bays and coves then became a sleepy backwater for the next 400 years, until the even swifter inexorable advance of western tourism. Within a few years hotels, apartment blocks and city-dwellers' holiday homes encrusted the coast. One famous resident was the artist Burhan Doğançay (1929-2013) who divided his last years between New York and Turgutreis. His artistic schtick was about walls as mirrors and emblems of urban life, and there were enough here to satisfy him.
Get in
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Long-distance travel is via Bodrum at the pinch-point on the peninsula. This is 35 km from Milas-Bodrum Airport (BJV IATA) and has buses from Istanbul (11 hr), Izmir (3 hr) and other cities. These arrive at Yeni Otogar, the new bus station 5 km northeast of the city, and terminus for local buses.
Bus 2-34 runs from Yeni Otogar to downtown Bodrum, Gürece, İslamhaneleri, Akçaalan and Turgutreis, every ten minutes daily 07:00-00:00.
Bus 2-4 runs from Yeni Otogar to downtown Bodrum, Konacık, Gürece, Bağla and Akyarlar at the south tip of the peninsula, M-Sa hourly 08:00-19:00.
By road follow D330 west past Bodrum. For Akyarlar you could also wind along the south coast road, which is narrow but tarmac.
Ferries no longer sail to Turgutreis from the Greek islands of Kos, Kalymnos or Leros. Use the Greek ferry network to reach Kos then take the fast catamaran to Bodrum.
With your own boat, Turgutreis is not a Port of Entry into Turkey so if you arrive from Greek waters, you need to sail first to Bodrum to clear immigration and customs. Both sides are vigilant for small craft dodging across the border and up to no good.
Get around
[edit]These villages sprawl, so you need a dolmuş or local bus to get between them.
Bus 2-32 runs south down the coast from Turgutreis to Akyarlar every two hours daily 07:00-18:00.
Bus 2-45 runs north from Turgutreis to Çukurbük, Gümsan, Gümüşlük and Gümüşkaya hourly daily 08:00-21:30.
Bus 2-37 runs northeast from Turgutreis to Gümüşlük, Gümüşkaya, Yalıkavak, Gündoğan and Göltürkbükü every hour or two daily 07:30-21:30.
See
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- Turgutreis town and beachfront are modern and choked with traffic. Don't come here for charming old fishing harbours.
- 1 Turgutreis Mosque just north of the marina is modern, but built in traditional Ottoman style.
- 2 Bayrak Tepe is a viewpoint above the village with a wind-tattered Turkish flag. The road is bad so be prepared to hike the last section, and bear in mind that if you come for the sunset, you'll be trying to descend in darkness.
- 3 The windmill is a forlorn stump on the ridge above Turgutreis.
- 4 Termera was once a city-state, and hosted the prison for Caria. It's hard to imagine from these few crumbly walls.
- Strobilos or Çıfıt Kalesi is the remnant of a Byzantine fortress atop a hillock by Aspat Beach in Akyarlar. Visitors in 2022 found the area fenced off.
- 5 Çatalada is the uninhabited scrub-covered island 5 km west of Turgutreis. The name means "fork island" for its triple hills, effectively three islands joined by tombolas. Boat trips visits for snorkelling and scuba diving.
- Greek islands are seen further out: from south to west are Kos, Pserimos, Kalimnos and Kalolimnos, all inhabited, and often the target of illegal migrant crossings from Turkey.
Do
[edit]- Beaches are narrow but sandy north of town.
- Boat trips sail from the marina.
- Water sports: this coast is exposed so it's good for the likes of wind-surfing. For kiddy-bathing go for the more sheltered beaches around Bodrum, though these are stony.
Buy
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- Lots of little convenience stores, there are no big western-style supermarkets.
Eat
[edit]- Sunger Pizza, Gazi Mustafa Kemal Blv 45 (at marina), ☏ +90 532 679 1290. Daily 09:00-22:00. Reliable long-established pizza chain.
- 1 Deli Mavi, 4007th Sk 7, ☏ +90 532 555 1014. Daily 14:00-02:00. Pleasant town centre restaurant for fish and meze.
- Rıhtım and Savarona are similar restaurants almost next door to Deli Mavi.
- Our Garden is at Bahçelievler Cd 118 just south of La Blanche Resort, and open daily 09:00-02:00.
- Fatma Bacının Yeri serves pastries and pancakes. It's 100 m north of the mosque at Plaj Cd 10 and open daily 09:00-17:00.
- 2 Indomood Resto, Gümüşlük Cd 9, ☏ +90 544 250 1044. Daily 08:30-22:30. Face it, you need a break from Turkish food. This excellent Indonesian outfit up an alley above Gümüşlük is mostly a delivery service, phone ahead and you may be able to dine in.
Drink
[edit]- Belediye Cd the main street has a slew of pubs including Paddy's and Target Bar.
Sleep
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- 1 Arin Resort, Şehit Kenan Aybey Cd 123, ☏ +90 252 382 0136. Spot on for comfort and service. B&B double 2000 TL.
- La Blanche Resort, Bahçelievler Cd 119 (one block south of Arin Resort), ☏ +90 252 382 0000. Okay for 4 star, limited menu. B&B double 3000 TL.
- 2 MyElla Hotel Resort, Zeyyat Mandalinci Cd 155, ☏ +90 252 311 2121. Smart beach resort hotel with spa. Limited amusements for children.
- 3 Kadikale Resort, Gümüşlük Cd 297, ☏ +90 252 382 3302. Mediocre scores for comfort and catering. The beach is rocky, and the site is hilly and no fun for those with limited mobility. B&B double 1500 TL.
- 4 Swissôtel Resort Bodrum Sahili, Gazi Mustafa Kemal Blv 42, Turgutreis, ☏ +90 252 311 3333. South side of Turgutreis, consistently high scores for comfort and service. B&B double 3000 TL.
- 5 Bodrum Tent Camp, Gümüşlük Cd 6, ☏ +90 542 646 0827. This had a dreadful spell in 2022, when it swallowed customers' money but was closed. It's now open again, a basic but acceptable campsite for its budget price. Tent 80 TL.
- 6 Charm Beach, Akyalar, ☏ +90 252 413 6210. Good value hotel on south edge of peninsula. B&B double 1800 TL.
- 7 Xanadu Island, Akyalar, ☏ +90 252 311 1111. Great reviews for this secluded resort looking across to Kos. B&B double 6000 TL.
- 8 Kefaluka Resort, Barış Manço Cd 63, Akyalar, ☏ +90 252 311 0390. Smart resort hotel on a breezy headland. B&B double 2500 TL.
Connect
[edit]Turgutreis and the roads from Bodrum and along the coast have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of March 2023, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.
Go next
[edit]- Gümüşlük 7 km north is an attractive small fishing harbour.
- Yalıkavak is the largest village of the resort strip on the north coast of the peninsula.
- Bodrum is the nearby city. Its castle is now a museum of underwater archaeology.
| Routes through Turgutreis |
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