Macclesfield
Macclesfield is a market town in Cheshire where the Cheshire plain gives way to the Peak District. It is home to the biennial Barnaby Festival. Macclesfield is the original home of the very popular brand of bread, Hovis. Two members of the late 1970s rock band Joy Division, and its successor the popular 1980s band New Order, are from the town. More notoriously it is also the home of both the band The Macc Lads and of Mr Methane, the World's only professional flatulist.
Understand
The pharmaceuticals conglomerate Astra-Zeneca has a large manufacturing site in Macclesfield, though its research centre at nearby Alderley Edge was closed in 2014. The biotech and pharmaceutical industry is a significant source of local employment.
In 2011, Macclesfield was home to 51,000 people.
History
Macclesfield was first recorded under the name "Maclesfeld" in the Domesday Book of 1086. Its name is probably from a local landowner of the time. Two centuries later it was granted a charter. The Church of All Saints was built shortly afterwards, where St Michael's Church now stands in the centre of town.
The Earls of Chester established the nearby Forest of Macclesfield, much larger than its present-day counterpart, as their private hunting preserve. Most of it was cut down after population increased in the mid-14th century. Throughout the Middle Ages it was fortified, probably by some sort of ditch and palisade. The names of streets such as Chestergate and Jordangate, contrary to popular belief, are unlikely to refer to the former presence of gates or portals in now-vanished walls; the term 'gate' is derived from 'gata', Scandinavian for road, which became gate in Middle English, and thus the term simply means to the road to Chester, or to the river Jordan, which was once a name for the Bollin.
During the Civil War, in 1642 the town was occupied for the King by Sir Thomas Aston, a Royalist. A century later, during the Jacobite Uprising, Bonnie Prince Charlie marched through on his effort to reach London.
Later in the 18th century Macclesfield, like much of that region of the country, began developing as a centre for textile manufacture. By the 1830s it was the world's biggest producer of finished silks; some of the 71 mills that were in operation are scattered around today's Macclesfield. Fashions changed, however, increasingly preferring French silk and the cottons from Manchester to the north, and many of those mills closed down. So little industry was left in town that it was the only English mill town not bombed by the Germans during World War II.
During the 19th century many Macclesfield silk-workers followed the lead of John Ryle in emigrating to the USA. Ryle settled in Paterson, New Jersey, establishing a silk industry there. Hundreds of workers followed him across the Atlantic, and the two towns were very closely linked for many years, with the Macclesfield press reporting news from Paterson and vice versa. A section of the Macclesfield Silk Museum is devoted to Paterson and silk items produced there. Macclesfield is also the original home of Hovis flour and bread, established in 1886 and produced by Thomas Fitton in a mill near Buxton Road next to the Macclesfield canal, which still stands, now converted into apartments.
Music
Macclesfield regained some measure of international fame in the late 20th century as the home of two members of the late 1970s rock band Joy Division, which evolved into popular 1980s dance band New Order after lead singer Ian Curtis hanged himself in his Barton Street home in 1980. Fans of Joy Division come to Macclesfield from all over the world, especially every 18 May, the anniversary of his death, to pay their respects at his grave marker in Macclesfield Cemetery. Control (2007), a film about Curtis's life and death based on his widow's memoirs, was filmed using many of the same Macclesfield locations in which he lived. Another band, The Macc Lads were infamous in the 1980s as "rudest, crudest, lewdest, drunkest band in Christendom".
This association with the depressing songs of a suicidal musician has not been the only thing Macclesfield has had to live down. In 2004 The Times called the town England's least cultured, due to its lack of theatres and other cultural institutions. That led the town to establish the Barnaby Festival in 2010, a modern take on ancient customs of celebrating St Barnabas's Day. (By local custom, “Barnaby Week” in June was when the mills closed and many of the townspeople went to the seaside in North Wales.) The performance-centred Winterfest in November and December has brought even more people to Macclesfield.
So, if you come listening to Joy Division on your headphones and expect a correspondingly grim Northern town to match, you're in for a pleasant surprise. Pay your respects to Ian, of course, but if you take the time to see more of Macclesfield you'll probably understand why it's a popular home for many top earners in Liverpool and Manchester, including some of City’s and United’s finest.
Layout
The town centre is mostly built around Mill Street and has very little architectural merit. As with many towns it has declined, but redevelopment is continuing. To the south of the centre is the High Street conservation area. To the south, west and north are mostly residential areas, with an industrial estate and more residential housing east of the Silk Road (A523), the main north-south route through Macclesfield. This runs in a valley alongside the River Bollin and the railway line. To the east the land rises steeply as you leave Macclesfield and enter the Peak District.
Visitor information
There is a visitor information office in part of the new Town Hall facing Market Place.
Get in
By train
1 Macclesfield station is on the main train line between London Euston and Manchester and is easily accessed from by high-speed trains (Manchester 20 minutes, London 1 hour 45 minutes). Cross Country services between Manchester and Birmingham also call at Macclesfield. Local stopping services are available to Manchester and Stoke-on-Trent. The train station is just to the east of the town centre and the main shopping area.
By car
The nearest motorway is the M6. From the north, take Junction 19, and travel through Knutsford. From the south, use Junction 17 and follow the signs for Congleton until Macclesfield is signposted. In either direction, the distance from the motorway is about 15 miles (25 km). From the east, the main road into the town is the A537 from Buxton, known as the Cat and Fiddle road (after the former pub,[dead link] now the highest-located distillery in England) at its summit. It is a scenic route, but in winter it is occasionally impassable.
By plane
Manchester Airport (MAN IATA) is 12 mi (19 km) away. By taxi the fare is typically about £25 if pre-booked.
There is no direct train service from the airport but there are frequent trains into Manchester Piccadilly with connections to Macclesfield. There is now a D&G 130 M-Sa daytime bus service between Macclesfield & the Airport. It is cheaper but the train can be quicker.
Get around
The town centre is easily traversable by foot. Buses to suburbs and nearby towns depart from the bus station on Queen Victoria Street. From the train station, cross the road to Waters Green and follow this up the hill and round to the left.
Nowhere in Macclesfield is completely flat and some parts are rather steep, but every so often you’ll see a view of the hills that makes it all worth while. Be aware that cobbled streets can be slippery when wet.
See
- 1 The 108 Steps (descends from Churchside SE of the church to Waters Green next to the Old Millstone Inn). Stairs between Waters Green and the town centre that are a beloved local landmark.
- 2 Macclesfield Cemetery, Prestbury Road (enter at gates and lodge on N side of road 800 ft (250 m) W of A537 roundabout), ☏ +44 1625 383946, bereavementservices@cheshireeast.gov.uk. 9AM-dusk daily. The grounds are pretty; the ornate stone gates, lodge and chapel are all listed, and there are many veterans of World Wars I and II buried or interred here, including Victoria Cross recipient George Harold Eardley. But the main attraction for visitors is the grave of Joy Division lead singer Ian Curtis, on the walkway next to the trees a short distance from the crematorium and car park. It's very simple, marked with his name, date of death and "Love Will Tear Us Apart", the single that became a hit after his suicide. There's often memorabilia left there, but not so much that it detracts from the experience of contemplating his final resting place whilst listening to 'The Eternal' or another of Joy Division's darker songs.
- 3 St Michael and All Angels Church, Market Place (in centre of town, next to Town Hall on Mill Street opposite Chestergate), ☏ +44 1625 421984, stmichaelscoordinator@gmail.com. Its dark stone tower visible from much of the town, and looming over the rail station car park, St Michael's is the building most identified with Macclesfield. A grade II* listed building, the current edifice was built in Victorian Gothic style between 1898 and 1901, replacing the Georgian-style 1740s church (which was built on the site of a 13th-century church) but retaining two late mediaeval chapels. Some gravestones from the 1700s remain but have been relocated, and there are great views to the east from Churchside, the road that runs around the church, and neighbouring Sparrow Park.
- 4 Silk Museum and Paradise Mill, Park Lane, SK11 6TJ. (Access is from Park Green. (Note the road is in two parts)), ☏ +44 1625 612045, info@silkmacclesfield.org.uk. Mill: W-Sa (by guided tour only), museum: M-Sa 10AM-3PM. The museum tells the story of silk and its association with Macclesfield. The mill contains 26 original Jacquard looms, some of which are still usable, and other machinery used for silk working. Entrance to the mill is by tour only, booking is advised. There are some limitations for visitors with mobility restrictions. There is a tea room and museum shop. Mill: adult £11, concessions £9.50, children under 16 free.
- Old Sunday School, Roe Street, SK11 6UT. Built in 1814 to provide a purpose-built school for over 2,000 local children, most of whom worked in the mills from the age of 6 onwards. It now serves as a community hub, including Cinemac (see below). It is no longer a museum.
- Unitarian Chapel. A Grade II* listed building dating from the 17th century. Still in regular use.
- 5 West Park Museum, Prestbury Road, SK10 3BJ. closed. The museum is closed, but some exhibits are visible at the Silk Museum
- Barracks Square (Armoury Towers), Off Crompton Road, SK11 8HF. A former military installation, long since in other use. Privately owned, but accessible (externally).
- High Street conservation area. The small network of roads to the south of Park Lane is an example of early industrial planned housing and is a conservation area.
- Weavers’ cottages (Look for these on Paradise Street and elsewhere.). These are generally terraced houses with the top floor or loft used for loom-weaving. They have distinctive large windows on this floor to maximize the light.
- Street art. Macclesfield has acquired several pieces of gable-end art, particularly in the Sunderland Street area (the nearest you’ll get to an edgy cultural quarter).
- 6 Nether Alderley Mill, Congleton Rd, Nether Alderley SK10 4TW. There was a mill here in 1290, but replaced by the present building in the 16th century, and the machinery is Victorian. It's an attractive pink sandstone building, with a ski-slope of a slate roof, backing onto its reservoir. The water-powered three overshot wheels to grind corn, and two are still working.
Do
- Watch football at 1 Macclesfield FC, Moss Rose Stadium, London Road SK11 7SP (on main A523 road 1 mile south of town centre), ☏ +44 1625 264686, office@mtfc.co.uk. "The Silkmen" play in the Northern Premier League Two. The stadium, Moss Rose, built in 1891, is one of the oldest in England.
- Middlewood Way (access from various points, starts on Gas Road near Waters Green railway bridge.). This former railway line has been reclaimed to provide 10 miles (16km) of greenway for walkers, cyclists and also horse riders for part of the route. Stretching from Macclesfield to Marple (via Bollington & High Lane) it connects with many other footpaths and is reasonably well surfaced for accessible use.
- Macclesfield Canal (access from various points). Macclesfield Canal runs between Marple to the north, and Scholar Green to the south, passing through the eastern edge of the town. It forms part of the Cheshire Ring (125 miles/200 km, 110 locks) which passes through some spectacular scenery. The canal is also popular with walkers and the occasional cyclist as it runs in parallel with the Middlewood Way; ideal for round trips.
- Barnaby Festival. Takes place every two years in June, in and around town. Typically consists of art displays, community events and a parade.
- Bluedot Festival. At nearby Jodrell Bank, every July. Science and music festival.
- Rewind North. Music festival, every August, usually held near the town.
- 2 MADS (Macclesfield Amateur Dramatic Society), Lord Street, SK11 6SY. A small but well-attended theatre offering several shows each year. Also home to the Macclesfield Majestic (musical) Theatre Group.
- 3 Cinemac, Roe Street (close to bus station). Macclesfield’s answer to the lack of a “proper” cinema. Housed on the second floor of the Old Sunday School, it’s essentially a converted hall with a single screen, 230 cinema seats and digital projection equipment, to allow the latest films and live events (e.g. from the National Theatre, Royal Opera House, ballet) to be shown. Access is by stairs or lift, and a hearing loop is available. Refreshments may be purchased, including tea, coffee, prosecco, wine, beer and spirits, and may be taken into the auditorium. Ticket prices are very reasonable. The nearest alternative cinema is 10 miles (15 km) away in Stockport.
- Parks. West Park (next to Sainsburys superstore) has a large children’s play area, a skateboard circuit and a bowling green. South Park has a small lake, a bandstand, skate/BMX bowl plaza, bowling green, 18-hole pitch & putt course, tennis and netball courts. Victoria Park (east of the Silk Road) has a bowling green, bandstand and small football pitch. Riverside Park, a nature reserve, follows the Bollin Valley to the west of Tytherington (main entrance via Beechwood Mews, off Manchester Road, near Tytherington School).
Buy
- 1 Arighi Bianchi, The Silk Road (E side of road 100 m N of train station), ☏ +44 1625 613333, enquiry@arighibianchi.co.uk. M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM, Su 10AM-4PM. The best-known shopping destination in Macclesfield is this furniture maker's shop, started by two Italian immigrants in the mid-19th century. Even if you're not in the market, consider going by just to see out the shop itself, a listed building with a cast-iron and glass front inspired by London's Crystal Palace. The furniture is pretty expensive but there’s a nice café (daily 10AM-4PM).
- Mill Street. The town's main shopping street, primarily home to chain stores, running from Market Place, past the Grosvenor indoor shopping centre and market, down to Park Green.
- Chestergate. The town's second shopping street, running west from Market Place, with many local boutiques and independent shops.
- Treacle Market. Street vendors pour into the centre of Macclesfield on the last Sunday of every month (or the Sunday before Christmas) for this event, named for an incident in the town's past when an overturned load of treacle was eagerly scooped up by the local poor – hence the nickname “Treacle Town”. Many interesting goods for sale and idiosyncratic foods for consumption. Local restaurants that are otherwise closed Sundays maintain limited hours for this event, as well.
Eat
- 1 Aquila Bacaro, 46 King Edward Street (SW corner of Westminster St intersection), ☏ +44 7534 077289, info@aquilabacaro.co.uk. M-Sa 10AM-late, Su 4-9:30PM (10AM-9PM last Su of month). Small restaurant emulating Venetian atmosphere and cuisine £5–10.
- 2 Cherry Blossom Bakery, 6 Church Street (20 m S of Churchside on E side of street), ☏ +44 1625 615999, cakes@cbbakery.co.uk. M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa 9AM-4PM, last Su of month 10AM-4PM. Local bakery with many sweet and cakes in centre of town is a popular tea spot
- 3 Chestergate Bistro, 66 Chestergate (20 m W of Churchill Way on S side of street), ☏ +44 1625 611103. Tu-F noon-2PM, 5:30PM-late; Sa noon-2:30PM, 5:30PM-late. Small restaurant serving traditional British cuisine for lunch and dinner on Macclesfield's major shopping street Lunch £6, dinner £10–15.
- 4 Maliwan, 47-49 Sunderland St (15 m S of Pickford St on W side of street), ☏ +1625 422 595. Tu-Th Su 5:30-10:30PM; F Sa 5:30-11PM. Small but well-regarded Thai place in south town centre £15–20.
- 5 The New Shalimar, 98–100 Chestergate (30 m E of Catherine St on S side), ☏ +44 1625 435400. Su-Th 5:30-11PM, F Sa 5:30PM-midnight. Macclesfield's most prominent Indian restaurant, with take-away available £15–20.
- 6 Rustic Coffee Co., 2, Church Mews, Churchill Way (S of the Esso station on the W side of the road opposite Stanley St), ☏ +44 1625 423202, rusticcoffeeco@gmail.com. Tu-F 8:30AM-14:30PM, Sa 9AM-4PM, last Su of month 10AM-3PM. Coffeehouse, opened 2013, serving breakfast sandwiches and lunch. £5–10.
- 7 Savages Mussels Bar, 23b Church Street (At the SW corner where the street bends between Waters Green and the church), jamie@savagesmussels.com. Mussels & seafood restaurant.
- 8 Picturedrome, 102-104 Chestergate, hello@marketoperations.co.uk. M closed, Tu-Sa 9AM-10PM, Su 9AM-6PM. Indoor & outdoor food court served by nine independent kitchens & bars in a historic cinema building. Beers from Manchester's Blackjack brewery. Tables are shared and not bookable.
- 9 Nomas, 34 Chestergate, Macclesfield, SK11 6BA., ☏ +441625 402120. Vegan cafe.
- 10 Sutton Hall, Bullocks Lane, Sutton, SK11 0HE, ☏ +44 1260 253211, sutton.hall@brunningandprice.co.uk. M-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM (no food service during last 90 min). 500-year-old manor house, nicely converted into a rambling pub/restaurant.
Drink
- 1 The Castle, 25-27 Church Street (Walk up cobbled street from Waters Green car park, pub is to the left as road bends right.), ☏ +44 1625 462646, rebecca@thecastlemacc.co.uk. M-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su 11AM-11PM. Grade II listed charming pub, sympathetically renovated in 2021. Unusual & attractive glazed serving hatch by entrance. Real Ales and a large selection of other drinks available. Food available until one hour before closing every day.
- 2 RedWillow, 32a Park Green, SK11 7NA, ☏ +44 1625 830718. M closed, Tu W 4-11PM, F 4PM-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-10:30PM. Conversion of former shop premises with original windows and parquet flooring contrasting with the modern look of the wood and copper bar. Beers are from the RedWillow brewery about half a mile away. Food available W-Su of varying style.
- 3 Treacle Tap, 43 Sunderland Street. Small pub offering beers from the Buxton Brewery.
- 4 The Jolly Sailor, 63 Sunderland St (NW corner of Pickford St intersection), ☏ +44 1625 402040, contact@thejollysailor-macc.co.uk. M-Th noon-10:30PM, F Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11PM. Traditional 1830s pub with jazz and blues music, fire downstairs; plasma and Space Invaders upstairs.
- 5 Leather’s Smithy, Clarke Lane, Langley, SK11 0NE, ☏ +44 1260 252313. M-F noon-3PM, 6-10PM; Sa noon-11PM; Su noon-8PM. Country pub on the edge of Macclesfield Forest and next to the Ridgegate Reservoir. Popular with walkers and cyclists. Large selection of whiskies.
- 6 The Swan with Two Necks, 65 Chestergate (25 m W of Churchill Rd on the NW corner of the Little St intersection). Noon-1AM. A warm and welcoming pub with drinks at decent prices. Live bands play nearly every weekend and the music ranges from Indie to Metal to Tribute bands.
- 7 The Bate Hall, 39 Chestergate (50 m E of Churchill Rd on N side), ☏ +44 1625 611342, batehallhotel.macclesfield@phoenixpub.co.uk. M-Th noon-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight, Su noon-5PM. The city's oldest pub serves a menu with many burger, steak and curry options plus desert. Claims to be the most haunted pub into the UK.
Sleep
- 1 Travelodge Macclesfield Central, Gas Rd, SK11 6JS (50 m N of Waters Green across from rail station), ☏ 0871 984 6432 (high cost number). Macclesfield branch of the budget hotel chain. Opposite the train station. £15-55.
- 2 Chadwick House Hotel, Beech Lane (E side of road 150 m N of A538), ☏ +44 1625 615558. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 11AM. B&B style guesthouse close to the town centre. £38-59.
- 3 Mottram Hall, Blackhurst Brow, Mottram St Andrew (Driveway NE off Wilmslow Road 500 m E of Prestbury Road), ☏ +44 1625 828135. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Decadent 18th-century country house, 6 miles north-west of the town. £80-195.
- 4 Premier Inn Macclesfield South West, Congleton, SK11 7XD (on W side of A536 approximately 3.5 mi SW of town centre), ☏ +44 333 003 8101. Budget chain hotel on the outskirts of town. £34-76.
- 5 Premier Inn Macclesfield North, Springwood Way, Tytherington, SK10 2XA (close to Silk Road, just over 2 miles north of town centre.). Budget hotel with attached Beefeater restaurant. Close to Bollington
Nearby
- Bollington A large village adjoining Macclesfield, locally nicknamed “Happy Valley”. The sights include several 19th-century cotton mills (now converted mainly for accommodation. White Nancy is a small monument commemorating the Battle of Waterloo on top of Kerridge Hill. As the name suggests it is painted white, though occasionally redecorated (officially or unofficially).
- Prestbury A village adjoining Macclesfield. One of the UK’s most expensive areas to live outside central London. The village centre is picturesque and you can glimpse the mansions of the rich and famous, if you so choose.
- Alderley Edge A large village west of Macclesfield, home to numerous wealthy residents, including at one time the Beckhams. The village sits at the bottom of an escarpment (“The Edge”) which was first mined for copper in the Bronze Age, some 5,000 years ago, with occupation going back twice as far. The area is popular for walking in the woods and there are far-reaching views from the sandstone ridge.
- Poynton A large village north of Macclesfield, home to coal workings from the 16th century onwards, The “inclines” (tramways lines for moving the coal) are still evident in places. The Anson Engine Museum has over 250 gas, oil and steam engines, many still working.
- Macclesfield Forest A working, mostly coniferous forest with reservoirs supplying water to Macclesfield. Stunning views and many good walks, including to Shutlingsloe, the local peak.
- Teggs Nose A local country park with great views over the surrounding countryside. The site was used as a quarry, and much of old Macclesfield is paved with its stone. The remnants of quarry equipment are still lying around.
- Hare Hill A walled garden owned by the National Trust.
- Jodrell Bank Discovery Centre Home to one of the world’s largest steerable radio telescopes, built in 1957 (using gun turret mechanisms from scrapped battleships to drive it). There are three discovery pavilions of especial appeal to children. Jodrell Bank also hosts festivals such as Bluedot.
- Gawsworth Hall A nearby hall and gardens. Open air theatre and concert venue.
- Capesthorne Hall A nearby hall and gardens. Hosts various events and is a popular wedding venue.
- Lyme Park The largest house in Cheshire, now owned by the National Trust. Set in extensive grounds (free access from surrounding footpaths). Famously used as the exterior of Pemberley in “Pride and Prejudice”, though the scene with Mr Darcy emerging from the lake in a wet shirt wasn’t filmed here.
Connect
As of Oct 2022, Macclesfield and its approach roads have 4G from EE, O2 and Three, and 5G from Vodafone.
Go next
If you haven't come from there, Manchester, England's second largest city, is a short distance to the north. Perceived by those who've not visited as a dismal post-industrial wasteland, whereas the reasons to visit—clubs, restaurants, shopping, museums—are too numerous for even a short list here to do the place justice.
Off to the east is the Peak District. After taking in the splendid scenery and trekking to your heart's content, either camping out overnight or staying in Buxton, you might want to continue on to Sheffield, another post-industrial Northern city with more to offer than that description suggests.
West of Macclesfield one eventually gets to Chester, with its quaint medieval architecture and walls. It's an excellent stopover for travellers heading into Wales, a short distance away.
Almost as close to Macclesfield to the south as Manchester is to the north is Stoke-on-Trent. Once home to a thriving pottery industry it is now a destination with museums and gardens and a thick streak of local pride.
Smaller towns in the area include Congleton (“Bear Town”), Leek, Wilmslow and Knutsford.
| Routes through Macclesfield |
Manchester ← merges with  ← |
N  S |
→ Leek → merges with  → Derby |