Mitla
Mitla is one of the most important Zapotec archaeological sites in Oaxaca, second only to Monte Alban. The site is strange in that the modern town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla has grown in and around the ancient ruins, so that there are different archaelogical zones with ruins, sometimes blocks away from each other, all of which comprise the official Zona Arquelogica. The town is a designated Pueblo Mágico.
Mitla Archaeological Site
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Human history in the Oaxaca Valley dates to around 8000 BC with the oldest archaeological sites probably being the Caves of Yagul and Mitla (not the ruins in town that we're talking about here).
Mitla as a settlement dates from sometime in the Preclassic era (roughly 1800-1200 BC). Mitla experienced growth as a spiritual center in the 6th century BC. The town reached its apogee around 1000-1250 AD, which is when most of the structures in the Columns Group were built.
The site is organized into five groups of structures:
- Adobe Group - some of the oldest Zapotec structures, ca. 1000 BC or older, due to similarity in style to Monte Alban
- Arroyo Group - an older section of the site, likely Zapotec from the period 200 BC - 200 AD
- Church Group - largely unexcavated because St. Paul's Church is built on top of it, some Zapotec continue to perform ancient rituals in these structures
- Columns Group - the Palace of Columns is the largest, best preserved, and most impressive structure at Mitla, dates from 1000 AD and later
- Southern Group - ruins on the south side of the river, also some of the oldest Zapotec style structures
Mitla is often described interchangeably as Zapotec or as Mixtec or as both. The older settlements and constructions were Zapotec and the town was originally a Zapotec religious stronghold, but when the city of Monte Alban declined, many Mixtec moved to Mitla, and the rise of Mitla between 1250-1470 AD is largely on the strength of Mixtec migration. The Mextec would later migrate further south to get away from the Aztecs, leaving Mitla again, a mostly Zapotec city at the time of the Spanish conquest.
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Architecturally, Mitla is in a class by itself due to its unique style marked by elaborate stone fretwork along building edges, above doorways, and running along edges. Intricate patterns are created from carved stones positioned precisely to form geometric shapes. Buildings show a clear differentiation between the substructures and the superstructures.
- 1 Mitla Archaeological Zone, Centro, ☏ +52 951 568 0316. 09:00 - 17:00. Main entrance is at the Columns Group M$90.
Mitla Fortress
Outside the town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla is a hilltop that was fortified with stone walls enclosing structures that were once residences. The fortress area is estimated to be about 1,000 years old and almost certainly was built during a period of war and social unrest.
Gates of Hell
Mitla was known as a spiritual center for the Zapotec and Mixtec, and the reputation has a lot to do with it being a place for the dead. Legends were told of the city being a burial ground for high priests and kings, buried in underground vaults with mounds of treasure in labyrinthine chambers below ground. When Aztecs subjugated the town in 1470, they called it "Mictlan", a name for the netherworld in the Nahutl tongue. (The word Mitla is simply a Spanish simplification of the Aztec name.)
During the 17th century, Spanish missionaries were shown an entryway called "Lyobaa", which led to the underworld of the dead. Francisco de Burgoa wrote that he was shown a vast underground temple with four large chambers and the gate leading to the underworld. Unnerved, the padres blocked up the entrance and built the church of San Pablo on top of it. This is identified as "the Church Group" in the modern-day archaeological site map.
An archaeological team from INAH and UNAM are investigating the site in 2022 and 2023 using various non-destructive scientific tools such as ground-penetrating radar and seismic reflection to "see" below ground around the church. Early results indicate that the underground chambers are real, not just the stuff of legend.
Prehistoric Caves of Mitla and Yagul
Caves in the Oaxaca Valley are among the oldest archaeological sites in Mexico. The caves here and in the nearby town and archaeological site of Yagul are among sites where humans lived 10,000 years ago. The caves here are a 
UNESCO World Heritage Site. UNESCO cited the caves as being the place where agriculture was developed, based on evidence of corn, squash, and beans (the three sisters) having been grown here on a large scale. There are also etchings and cave paintings. M$50 fee to enter, plus M$200 for a guided tour. Mototaxis from the zocalo will bring you to the caves for M$30.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla
The town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla completely embraces the archaeological site, but is distinct in that it is a lively small town dating from the 17th century. The town has a delightful colonial era centro with 200-year old buildings, cobblestone streets, two large historic churches, and Zapotec traditions that date back over 3,000 years. Almost half the town's population speak an indigenous language (usually Nahuatl) in addition to Spanish.
Get in
Mitla is only about 30 miles from the city of Oaxaca via a good road. Combis, buses, and taxis are all good ways to get to Mitla.
By bus
Second-class buses run about every 15 minutes throughout the day, departing from the Central de Abastos in Oaxaca. Fares start at about M$20. You can also wave down second-class buses that say "Mitla" on front as they pass along Hwy 190 (be sure you're on the side of the road heading towards Mitla).
- 1 Terminal de Autobuses, Independencia y Cempoaltepetl, Centro. 05:00 - 22:00. Second class buses to Oaxaca City, buses leave every 15-30 minutes throughout the day. Not much room to sit, and frequently unattended (in which case you pay the driver). M$20.
By combi
Combis (colectivos) drive down Blvd. Jose Vasconcelos (MEX 190) in the city of Oaxaca with signs that say "Mitla" on the windshield. These run frequently all day and will also cost about M$20.
By taxi
A taxi is the most flexible and convenient way to travel and will cost about M$400. You can negotiate with drivers for a full day, which may give you time to explore other nearby towns such as Yagul (more Zapotec archaeological ruins) and Matatlán (lots of mescal distillers in the area).
Get around
Mitla is easy to get around by foot or bicycle. Most of the sites are in town and fairly close to each other, but a taxi is useful for visiting nearby villages or outlying sites. A taxi sitio is on Cempoaltepetl at Independencia, near the bus station. There are also mototaxis in Mitla. These three-wheel conveyances are a fun, economical way buzz around the town, assuming your life insurance is paid up.
Buses/combis to Hierve el Agua depart from Independencia at Aquiles Serdán. Get there early to get a good seat, or just show up when you're ready knowing that the bus doesn't leave until it's full (not a fixed schedule).
See
- 2 Templo de San Pablo, Reforma s/n. Historic 18th century church built over Zapotec temples and underground crypts that some think had a gate to the underworld. The church is a beautiful single-nave structure with 3 domes. The church is adjacent to the Mitla archaeological site.
- 3 Caves at Mitla and Yagul (from Mitla, Guila Naquitz Cave is 2 km northeast and Yagul caves 12 km west). There are separate caves close to Mitla and close to Yagul. They are combined into one UNESCO citation. The two nearby sites constitute a single
UNESCO World Heritage Site. The caves significantly predate the Zapotec culture and show evidence of human domestication of the three sisters 10,000 years ago (making it older than Tehuacan). 
Do
Buy
Artesanias are very common throughout the state of Oaxaca and the town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla is known particularly for its large community of weavers producing table linens, garments, and Zapotec rugs. Artisans often welcome visitors to their workshops and a number of artesania shops in town sell some excellent works from local artists and from nearby towns.
- 1 Mercado de Artesanias, Carr. Nacional 20. 10:00 - 17:00 daily. Large marketplace for Oaxacan artesanias with an outstanding selection of textiles as well as pottery, carved wooden statues, and alebrijes. Open air stands that make it feel like a tianguis.
Eat
- 1 Origen Maiz, Camino Nacional y Roogeuii, ☏ +52 951 155 1949. 09:00 - 19:00 (closed M-Tu). Casual restaurant close to the Church Group of the archaeological site. Traditional regional Oaxacan food with a variety of moles, mezcal cocktails, and outstanding views from the outdoor dining area.
- 2 Yälnadoo, Lazaro Cardenas 3, ☏ +52 951 568 0271. 09:00 - 18:30. Casual restaurant with regional oaxacan cooking, specializing in various shades of mole. Generous portions. Recommend tlayuda de tajajo at lunch or huevos entomatados for breakfast.
- 3 Mi Tlayuda, Independencia 17, ☏ +52 951 568 0260. 18:00 - 00:00. Traditional Mexican restaurant with fresh grilled meats and tortillas. Note that the 18:00 opening hour is regarded as a loose suggestion, you might plan for dinner at 20:00.
Drink
Local restaurants often serve interesting regional beverages made with corn or chocolate. Tepache is popular in this area: it's a drink made with parts of the pineapple, sweetened with piloncillo, and usually fermented (though non-alcoholic versions are available).
The drink of choice in Mitla, as in most of Oaxaca is mezcal. Mezcal is elevated to an artform in Oaxaca and many towns have palenques, which are small scale distilleries where they roast the agave pinas, crush them with a huge stone wheel, ferment, distill, age, bottle, and sell all in one place. These are family run businesses that have made mezcal their own way for generations. You will find them in San Pablo Villa de Mitla, as well as shops selling local mezcals, bars serving only mezcal, and even a fewer larger-than-a-garage producers calling themselves "fabricas" (factories). Mezcal in Oaxaca can be the epicurious adventure of a lifetime, or you can just start by trying a glass while you're passing through town. If you want to delve a bit deeper, the small town of Matatlán is just five miles away and has a bumper crop of palenques and mezcalerias.
- 1 Fabrica de Mezcal "Olla Zapoteca", Caraterra, esquina Internacional, ☏ +52 951 134 4305. 10:00 - 19:00. Palenque and demonstrations showing how mezcal is made. Large assortment of mezcals for sale, including some of the flavored cream mezcals.
- 2 Mezcal el Andador, Reforma 15, Los Presidentes, ☏ +52 951 199 3821. 07:30 - 20:00. Small independent mezcal producer that makes and sells mezcal in town, close to the archaeological zone. Several types of mezcal are available, including barrel aged varieties in a range of strengths, from about 40% alcohol (80 proof) up to about 60% alcohol (120 proof).
Sleep
- 1 Casa Lyobaa, Calle Roogueuii s/n, San Pablo, ☏ +52 951 186 3422. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Peaceful upscale guesthouse with garden swimming pool, very comfortable rooms and personal service. Breakfast included. M$2000.
- 2 Hotel Hacienda "Don Cenobio", Benito Juárez 3, Centro, ☏ +52 951 568 0330. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. New hotel with modern amenities and large rooms. Parking available. On-site restaurant. M$1450.
- 3 Hotel Carmelita Mitla, Benito Juarez Ext.No. 4, ☏ +52 951 568 0960. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Spacious, clean, comfortable rooms with tempermental hot water.
- 4 Casa Regina Oaxaca, carretera a Xaagá S/n, Xaagá, ☏ +529511900521. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Boutique hotel with large, comfortably furnished rooms, outdoor pool area, spa treatments. M$2200.