Monte Alban, Oaxaca, Oaxaca

Monte Albán is a Zapotec and Mixtec archaeological site in the state of Oaxaca in Mexico, preserving the center of an ancient city that was a contemporary of Teotihuacán in central Mexico. Located on a mountaintop 10km from the center of Oaxaca city, Monte Albán is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Understand

Monte Albán traces its history to about 500 BCE when Zapotec builders (who called themselves the cloud people) began leveling the mountaintop and constructing terraces and other works. The city's construction was done in phases, with Phase I stretching from the city's beginnings to about 400 BCE. The second phase spanned three centuries between 400-100 BCE, and is when the city's observatories were built.

Around 1200 CE, the Zapotec abandoned the city due to Mixtec incursions. The Mixtec occupied the site until the Spanish conquest, and some additional minor structures were built during the Mixtec era.

Monte Albán is managed by INAH.

Climate

Temperatures in Oaxaca are generally warm with winter low temperatures seldom going below 15°C. November through April is the dry season in Oaxaca, which sees most of its rain in late summer, particularly September. March through May are generally the hottest months, with daily highs over 30°C, though thankfully Monte Albán tends to be breezier than Oaxaca city.

Get in

Monte Albán is located about 10km from downtown Oaxaca. The best ways to get there are by taxi or tourist bus.

Taxis

The most flexible, but most expensive way to visit the site. They will cost about M$200-300 round-trip from most downtown Oaxaca hotels (prices may be out of date).

Shuttle buses

• 1 Autobuses Turísticos (Viajes Turísticos Mitla), Francisco Mina 501 (2 blocks west of Mercado 20 de Noviembre), ☏ +52 951 516 6175. Departs hourly from 08:00-15:00; return trips depart hourly from 10:30-17:00. M$100 round trip (March 2024). (updated Jan 2024)
• 2 Lescas Co, Francisco Mina 518 (lobby of Hotel Rivera de Ángel), ☏ +52 951 516 6666. Departs every 30 min from 08:30-15:30. Lescas Co Travel Agency run the shuttle from the lobby of Hotel Rivera de Angel. The shuttle is also available at the Zócalo. Buy the ticket in the building labeled with a green "TOURS" sign; it's located 2 buildings south of the post office (correos), directly across from the church. While pickup is near the Zócalo, the return trip drop off will be at Hotel Rivera on Mina. The ride is scenic as it winds through the city & surrounding hills. M$120 round trip (March 2024). 

Fees and permits

Entry to the site costs M$95 (Mar 2024). An additional M$50 is charged for video cameras or tripods. Entrance to the site is free on Sundays, if you are a Mexican resident.

On weekends the museum is closed.

Get around

You can walk around the site and climb up the major structures. Some fencing is in place to limit access to certain structures. Interpretive signage is in place around at the site in Spanish and English. Mobility will be a problem for handicapped visitors. Local guides can be hired near the site entrance and their interpretive knowledge is well worth the reasonable fees they charge.

You can see just about everything in about 2-3 hours. The best overview of the ancient city is probably from the South Platform, farthest from the entrance. If you're in a hurry, you could probably spend just 15 minutes or so to go straight to the north platform and back. The view from here is almost as good, giving you pretty good idea of what the site looks like.

See

Ball court at Monte Albán

• 1 North Platform (Plataforma Norte). Large, high platform with several structures (possibly temples) at the top. 
• 2 Ball court (Juego de Pelota Grande). The Zapotec used a very different layout from the Mayan ball courts at sites like Coba or Chichen Itza. 
• 3 Los Danzantes (Plaza de los Danzantes). A group of structures noted for its fascinating Olmec carvings of people in various strange positions. 
• 4 Building J (Monticulo J / Edificio J). The unusual position and architectural details indicate that the building was an astronomical observatory. 
• 5 South Platform (Plataforma Sur). A very large pyramid with an open plaza area at the top. 
• 6 Tomb 7 (Tumba 7). Mexican archaeologists uncovered the treasure-filled tomb in the early 1930s. 
• 7 Museo del Sitio del Monte Albán. Monte Albán's site museum is modern, attractive and well worth a visit. It has some excellent interpretive displays plus a number of relics excavated from the site in the early 20th century. A highlight of the museum is its collection of stelae. One note: in the museum, all the signs are in Spanish. Restrooms, a small bookstore, and a cafe are also available here. 

Do

• Hire one of the local guides to walk the site with you
• Climb both the North and South platforms

Buy

A small bookstore is in the site's visitor center. Local vendors often sell local crafts and foods outside the site entrance.

Eat

There is a snack and drink window by the turnstiles, and a cafe serving light fare and beverages in the site's modern visitor center/museum. More substantial meals are available in Oaxaca.

Drink

Nightclubs and bars are in nearby Oaxaca. Sodas and beer are sold in the cafe in the site's visitor center. You'll probably want to bring a bottle of water or two into the park, since it can get very hot walking around the site and climbing the ancient ruins, and there are no vendors inside except a few roaming guys trying to sell you souvenirs. You can get water at the snack bar next to the turnstiles.

As of March 2024, the upper parking lot had about 50 souvenir stands and 1 stand selling drinks and cookies.

Sleep

Lodging is available in the nearby city of Oaxaca.

Stay safe

Because of its altitude and the lack of shade, be sure to bring a hat, sunglasses, sun block and water to avoid sunstroke - the sun can be unrelenting. There are many shady places to rest within the park, but if you want to walk around and see things, there's no avoiding spending most of your time in the sun.

Monte Albán is a safe site to visit. Some political unrest occurred in Oaxaca City in early 2007, but the city is quiet again.

Go next

The city of Oaxaca is spectacular. Mitla, another Zapotec archaeological site, is nearby.