The South Zone of Rio de Janeiro is where most tourists usually stay. Lots of hotels, from the fancy 5-stars like Copacabana Palace to hostels, are to be found in the neighborhoods of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, which also have three famous beaches, the latter two just being separated by the canal that drains the Lagoa into the sea.
A little closer to downtown, the Gloria, Catete, Botafogo, and Flamengo neighborhoods are pleasant and full of Carioca character.
Get in
Most parts of the Zona Sul are easily accessible by bus or metro from Centro or Zona Norte. Line 1 of the subway runs from the Zona Norte and Centro through most of the main neighborhoods of Zona Sul, as far as Praça General Osório at the east end of Ipanema.
Real Auto Onibus[dead link] offers direct bus connections from both airports to many locations in Zona Sul.
Get around
By metrô
Line 1 services the Zona Sul as far west as Ipanema. The stops are:
- Praça General Osório (in Ipanema) - for Ipanema Beach and Arpoador
- Cantagalo (in Copacabana) - for Arpoador and the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon ("Lagoa")
- Siqueira Campos (in Copacabana) - for Copacabana beach, and coaches to Ipanema, Leblon, and Gávea
- Cardeal Arcoverde (in Copacabana) - for Copacabana and Leme beaches and Rio Sul mall
- Botafogo - for Botafogo beach, Botafogo Praia Shopping mall, and indie/art movie theaters; connection (integração) bus to Urca/Sugar Loaf and Jardim Botânico.
- Flamengo - for Flamengo beach, Guanabara Palace
- Largo do Machado (in Laranjeiras) - connection (integração) for a bus to the Christ the Redeemer statue on Corcovado
- Catete - for the Museum of the Republic
- Glória - for Nossa Senhora da Glória church
By bicycle
There are a number of bike rental services, names and ownership have however changed a few times.
See
- 1 Sugar Loaf Mountain (Pão de Açucar), Av. Pasteur 520, Urca, ☏ +55 21 2546-8433. 08:00-21:00. One of the defining landmarks of the city. The cable cars take you up from 1 Praia Vermelha station for a breathtaking view of much of Zona Sul and the center, and also the city of Niteroi, just across Guanabara Bay. You have to queue again at Urca Hill (Morro da Urca) station for the second part of the ride. You can also walk up a trail to this point (start on Trilha do Morro da Urca along the shore, then climb the stairs on your left) and take the cable cars to Pão de Açucar and back to Praia Vermelha for R$92, or just back to Morro da Urca for R$59, or just down to Praia Vermelha for R$39 (full prices). This ticket office closes at 19:30, the downward trip is free after that. At Morro da Urca you can take a sightseeing helicopter trip, if you can afford it. The area is pretty secure, thanks to the various military institutions nearby. The buses number 511, 512, 591 and 592 and the subway buses from Botafogo bring you to the base station. Do not make the mistake of thinking you have seen enough once you have seen the view from Cristo Redentor. Try Sugarloaf at sunset for a truly mind-blowing experience. It is also possible to hike/climb up via the Escalada do Costão. R$99 (online), R$110 (box office).
- 2 [formerly dead link] Corcovado, Rua Cosme Velho, 513 (Accessible only by Corcovado Tram from Cosme Velho, or by taxi), ☏ +55 21 2558 1329. Tram 08:00-19:00, leaving every 30 min. The 710 m (2,330 ft) granite peak is capped by the 38-m statue of Jesus Christ (Cristo Redentor), Corcovado has been the vantage point for countless picture postcards and travel posters through the ages. It provides a sweeping panorama, from the interior of Guanabara Bay to the north, to Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Rodrigo de Freitas' Lagoon) to the south. Return tram R$61 (low season), R$71 (high season), R$48 concessions.
- 3 Christ the Redeemer statue (Cristo Redentor). 8AM - 7PM. Constructed between 1922 and 1931, the statue is 30 m (98 ft) high, excluding its pedestal. The arms stretch 28 m (92 ft) wide. R$61-R$75.
- There are different options to go up to the top:
- By taxi. The driver may expect extra if you will not be using his taxi to go back down.
- Hiking. Most of the paths are well-marked, but you can get maps and guides as well.
- By train. On a ride from 2 Cosme Velho station through Floresta da Tijuca (Tijuca Forest), an island of subtropical rainforest in the middle of one of the most populous cities of South America. Trains can get very busy. Consider a lunchtime or afternoon trip when there are less coach parties. You can buy tram tickets the day before at the kiosk at the Rio Sul shopping centre(additional fees may apply, about R$6/ticket) or via the official website. Tickets again are sold at the ticket booth in front of the train for the same day, availability permitting.
- 4 Arpoador. The rocks at the Copacabana end of Ipanema beach. From here you can see a panorama including Corcovado and Sugar Loaf. It is supposed to be the best place to watch the sunset from in Rio. Reputedly a bit dangerous so go there at weekends when there are lots of people and a few police around.
- 5 Guanabara Palace (Palácio Guanabara), Rua Pinheiro Machado - Laranjeiras. Former palace of the Imperial Princess, now the governor's office. Eclectic architecture. Not open to the public.
- 6 Largo do Boticário, Rua Cosme Velho (just up the hill from the Corcovado train station). A delightful square of well-preserved colonial style houses that date back to 1831.
- 7 Laranjeiras Palace (Palacio das Laranjeiras, literally Palace of the Orange Trees), Parque Eduardo Guinle (From M1, 2: Largo do Machado go west about 500 m). This is the official residence of the Governor of the State of the Rio de Janeiro
- 8 Monumento a Estácio de Sá (Espaço Cultural do Monumento Estácio de Sá), Av. Infante Dom Henrique - Gloria (Near to Parque Brigadeiro Eduardo Gomes). Erected in 1973. Homage to Estácio de Sá, the founder of Rio de Janeiro
Churches
- 9 Basilica of the Immaculate Conception on the Botafogo Beach (Basílica Imaculada Conceição na Praia de Botafogo), Praia de Botafogo, 266 (Between M: Botafogo and Flamengo), ☏ +55 21 2551-7948.
- 10 Our Lady of the Rosary Parish Church (Igreja / Paróquia Nossa Senhora do Rosario), 164, R. Gen. Ribeiro da Costa, Leme (M1: Cardeal Arcoverde one km west).
- 11 Church of Our Lady (Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Glória), ~19, Rua Gago Coutinho, Rua das Laranjeiras, s/n°, Largo do Machado (M1, 2: Largo do Machado right there). Schedule of Masses: M-F 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 17:00, 18:00; Sa 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 15:00, 17:00; Su 07:30, 09:30, 10:30, 12:00, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00; Mondays 10:00-15:00, the church closes for cleaning.
Museums
- 12 Casa das Canoas, Estrada das Canoas 1246 - São Conrado, ☏ +55 21 3322-3581. Tu-F afternoons. The former residence of architect Oscar Niemeyer. Call in advance. Adults R$10.
- 13 Museum of Folklore Edison Carrero (Museu de Folklore Edison Carrero), Rua do Catete 179 (M: Catete. Park of the Museum of the Republic), ☏ +552122850441. Part of the National Centre for Folklore and Popular Culture (CNFCP). The museum was created in 1968 and today has around 13,000 objects by various authors, techniques and origins, kept in technical archives, available for consultation by institution-related post-graduate specialists, by appointment.
- 14 Indian Museum (Museu do Índio), Rua das Palmeiras 55 - Botafogo, ☏ +55 21 3214-8700. Tu-F 10:00-17:30, Sa Su 13:00-17:00. Focusing on the history of Native Brazilians, with many artifacts including a home of the Umé culture. The gift shop has authentic handicrafts.
- 15 Carmen Miranda Museum (Museu Carmen Miranda), Av. Rui Barbosa (in Flamengo Park), ☏ +55 21 2299-5586. Here you'll find an amusing collection of photographs, posters, musical recordings, and, of course, gigantic fruity hats worn by the singing star. The building looks like an abandoned space capsule in the middle of the park.
- 16 Army History Museum of Copacabana Fort (Museu Histórico do Exército e Forte de Copacabana), Praça Coronel Eugênio Franco, 1 - Posto 6 - Copacabana (M1: Ipanema/General Osório, further five blocks east), ☏ +55 21 2287-5357, vanessa@decex.ensino.eb.br. Exhibition Halls: Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Observatories, Souvenir Vitacura, Colombo Confectionery and 18 do Forte Coffee Shop: Tu-Su 10:00-20:00. Adults R$6, over 60 years old R$3, students with student ID R$3.
- 17 Museum of the Republic (Museu da República), Rua do Catete, 153 - Catete (Metrô Catete), ☏ +55 21 285-6350. The former presidential palace (1893-1960) hosts a museum of recent history and nice gardens, with an adjacent art gallery and small theatre that occasionally shows free movies. One of main features is the room where president Getúlio Vargas shot himself in 1954.
- 18 Museu Villa-Lobos, Rua Sorocaba, 200 - Botafogo (Six blocks of west from M: Botafogo), ☏ +55 21 2226-9020, mvillalobos@museuvillalobos.org.br. M-F 10:00-17:30. Heitor Villa-Lobos wrote about 1000 pieces and is considered one of the world's greatest composers. This small collection includes a number of personal items, musical instruments, pictures and hand-written work by Villa-Lobos. Free.
- 19 Oi Futuro (formerly Centro Cultural Telemar), Rua Dois de Dezembro, 63 - Flamengo, ☏ +55 21 3131-3060. This former telephone museum hosts a fine gallery with temporary exhibitions of digital art or art with interactive medias; it is sponsored by the local phone company.
- 20 Instituto Moreira Salles (IMS), Rua Marques de São Vicente 476, Gavea, ☏ +55 21 3284-7400. Cultural Centre - at these days hosting a photo exhibition of the construction of Brasilia. Guided tours: Tu-F at 17:00. Free.
Parks
- 21 Botanical Garden (Jardim Botânico), Jardim Botânico, ☏ +55 21 3874 1808. Daily 08:00-17:00. Planted in the 1800s, it is both a park and a scientific laboratory. It contains a huge collection of plants from all over the world, not only tropical ones. If you take the bus note that Jardim Botanico is also the name of a neighborhood and the road on which it is found so make sure you go all the way to the entrance. The gardens are well kept and very lush. Not far from the cafe, you are likely to hear swooshing sounds. Look up and you can see small monkeys swinging from tree to tree. R$4.
- 22 Parque Enrique Lage (Parque Lage), Rua Jardim Botânico, 414, ☏ +55 21 3257 1800. Public park with walking trails through subtropical forest. A cafe offers drinks and meals. A trail goes up to Corcovado mountain from here. The land was the residence of industrialist Enrique Lage and his wife, singer Gabriella Besanzoni. During the 1920s Lage had the mansion remodeled by Italian architect Mario Vodrel, with interior paintings by Salvador Payols Sabaté. The mansion was notably featured in the 2003 music video for Snoop Dogg's single "Beautiful."
- 23 Flamengo Park (Parque do Flamengo), along the bay between Flamengo and Glória. 1.2 million m² with broad walkways, Flamengo Beach, various monuments, and over 10,000 trees. To its north is the Museum of Modern Art (see Centro).
- 24 Parque Guinle.
Do
- 1 Hike/Climb Sugarloaf Mountain (Escalada do Costão / Trilha do Pão de Açúcar). If you are keen on hiking and climbing up the full way, check out this trail. Equipment is needed as there is a vertical section with potentially serious consequences in case of a fall. If you do not have your own rock climbing equipment, go with a guide. On the way down you can use the gondola for free to get to Morro da Urca. From there, you can follow an easy trail to get back to the ground.
- 2 Cláudio Coutinho Trail (Pista Cláudio Coutinho), Urca (from the entrance to the Pão de Açucar cable car). Daily 06:00-18:00. This pleasant walk follows the southern coast of Urca Hill (Morro da Urca), and side trails lead to various points on the hill, offering lush vegetation, monkeys, and nice views of the bay. Free.
- 3 Planetarium Espaço Museu do Universo, Rua Vice-Governador Rubens Berardo, 100 – Gávea (Buses 125, 157, 170, 410, 432 or 435), ☏ +55 21 2529-2146. M-F 09:00-17:00, Sa Su and public holidays 14:30-17:00. There are shows, mainly for kids, in the planetarium on weekends. These are targeted at different age groups so it is essential to check the age the show you plan to attend is for or you may get stuck with one that is totally unsuitable. From Wednesday to Friday the space is also open without shows and there are around 60 hands-on scientific experiments to entertain kids.
- 4 Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon (Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas). A large lagoon in the middle of South Zone, with great views to Corcovado and Ipanema and Leblon beaches. You can run, walk, skate or cycle the 7.5 km around this freshwater lake and then retire to your luxurious Ipanema penthouse apartment, or just imagine it! Some have been known to swim in it although pollution levels are very high. Around Lagoa you can rent cycles, swan-shaped pedalos and, on the western side near where the helicopters take off, electric cars for younger kids.
- Pedalboats (pedalinhos), on Lake Rodrigo de Freitas - Ipanema (near Cantagalo Park). Pedal the lake in these swan-shaped boats for 2-5 people. R$10/half hour.
- Quadracycle (at the north end of the lake). Take a ride around the lake on one of these unique contraptions, like a bicycle for two side-by-side riders under a little canopy. R$10/hour.
- 5 Hanggliding and Paragliding, São Conrado. From the ramp atop Pedra Bonita, qualified instructors offer tandem flight courses in hang gliding, paragliding, and ultralight. Wind conditions are typically safe and offer splendid views of the surrounding beaches and mountains. Helicopter rides also available. Various clubs offer the experience: and [skycenter@skycenter.com.br]. R$250.
- 6 Panoramic helicopter rides. These are noisy and drive Rio's residents mad as the helicopters circle the statue of Christ, but if you can live with that and can afford it, a helicopter trip is likely to be the most memorable experience of your visit to Rio. There are 2 operators in the city:
Helisight: You can catch a copter at the first stage of the cable car ride up the Sugar Loaf or, alternatively, on the west edge of Lagoa. The basic trip takes in Sugar Loaf, Corcovado and Zona Sul (R$230 per person, minimum three people); longer, and more expensive, trips will take you to places such as the Maracana football stadium (R$350 per person). Prices quoted are web site prices. They may be negotiable on the day but no chance if a cruise ship is in town.
Panoramic Flight RJ in Barra da Tijuca - Helicopter Rider (Riocopter), Av. Gen. Moisés Castelo Branco Filho, 700 - Golf Olímpico - Barra da Tijuca, ☏ +55 21 98171-4002. A helicopter ride over the beautiful beaches and over Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer.
- 7 Pedra da Gávea (A taxi is the most convenient option to reach the 3 trailhead. Alternatively take bus 557 towards Rio das Pedras and get off at 4 Avenida Vítor Konder bus stop. From there it is just another 800-m walk to the trailhead. Alternatively take metro line L4 to Jardim Oceânico and walk 2.4 km to the trailhead). Hike up this monolith of 844 m and enjoy one of the most spectacular city views in the world. It can be done either by booking a tour or on your own. The round trip takes roughly 4-5 hours and is strenuous and challenging with a stretch of light rock climbing ("Carrasqueira"). Bring enough water and food and wear proper shoes. Attention: There are stories online of people, who got robbed on the hike up.
- 8 Hike up the Morro Dois Irmãos (Anyone wanting to complete this hike would travel to Vidigal. At the base, near the plaza (Praça do Vidigal), visitors may choose to ride to the Vila Olímpica soccer field (the entrance for the hike) by Kombi van or on the moto-taxis.). There are two viewpoints in this hike before reaching the final destination of the peak. From the first, you will be able to see Rocinha, which is the largest favela in Latin America, and a clear view of Pedra da Gávea. From the second, you are able to see Serra da Carioca, Gávea, Corcovado (where Christ the Redeemer stands tall), and Pedra Bonita. Once reaching the highest peak of the Morro Dois Irmãos you are able to see all of South Zone (Zona Sul) ranging from Botafogo to Leblon, including a beautiful view of Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon (Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas).
Beaches
Perhaps the best thing to do in Rio is nothing, while sitting on its glorious beaches. Of the two most famous, Copacabana and Ipanema, the former gets a bit more crowded (perhaps that will change now the Metro has been extended to Ipanema). Both have spectacular mountains to the side -- Sugar Loaf to the east of Copacabana, and Dois Irmãos ("The Two Brothers") to the west of Ipanema. Though famous, the water at South Zone beaches may not always be clean enough for swimming. Water quality goes down after heavy rain that washes pollution out to the sea-- it is advisable to ask your lifeguard.
Leblon and Ipanema are usually OK; Copacabana sometimes has problems, especially after very rainy days. The seas at Leblon and Ipanema are also somewhat rougher than at Copacabana. Even when they appear calm this can be deceptive. A common problem is when swimmers venture out beyond the breakers and then cannot get back. There are lifeguards at all of the ``postos´´ and surfers can be relied on to help out swimmers in trouble. There is also a rescue helicopter that pulls people out of the water in a net. But you don´t really want to suffer the embarrassment of this happening to you so even if you are a strong swimmer, take care!
Along Copacabana and Ipanema-Leblon there are postos (lifeguard watchtowers with toilets and changing facilities). Posto 6 is unaccountably missing, although it is generally considered to be opposite Rua Francisco Sá when Cariocas arrange to meet on the beach. Although beaches are often considered a plural, democratic space, there are still some informal (and not too strict) "social area" divisions.
Beginning at Glória and winding outward toward the south and southwest, the beaches are:
On Guanabara Bay
Beaches on the bay are generally less popular, as they are relatively narrow and with smaller waves. Sometimes inappropriate for bathing.
Oceanic
- 13 Leme Beach (Praia do Leme) (East of Copacabana). Somewhat less crowded than the Copacabana Beach
- 14 Copacabana Beach (Praia do Copacabana). Among the most famous beaches in the world, Copacabana attracts many tourists, both foreign and national. In summer, there are occasional free evening concerts of big name acts which draw huge crowds.
- 15 Arpoador Beach (Praia do Arpoador) (Between Copacabana and Ipanema.).
- 16 Ipanema Beach (Praia do Ipanema). The main beach for the middle-class, and specifically the Posto 9 section (watchtower #9) is preferred by left-wingers, intellectuals, artists, journalists and similar beach-goers. You can easily walk into a politician or someone famous here. The area close to the Farme de Amoedo street in Ipanema is known to attract the gay crowd of the city, who show off openly their sexuality.
- 17 Leblon Beach (Praia do Leblon) (West of Ipanema and similar, but less crowded.).
- 18 São Conrado Beach (Praia do São Conrado). On the other side of the Dois Irmãos mountain west of Leblon, this beach is popular with middle class people and favela dwellers alike. Good surfing and hang-gliding opportunities. Sometimes inappropriate for bathing. The south zone can be seen through a helicopter ride where you can marvel at the magnificent view of the most beautiful beaches in the capital of Rio de Janeiro, as well as flying over monuments such as Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer.
Samba schools
- Acadêmicos da Rocinha, Rua Bertha Lutz, 80 - São Conrado, ☏ +55 21 3205-3318.
Learn
- 1 Cook in Rio, Rua Visconde de Piraja 281 shop 213, Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 98894-9857, info@cookinrio.com. Learn some of the most traditional and delicious Brazilian meals and drinks, like cassava sticks, fish moqueca, banana farofa, caipirinhas and brigadeiro. Ideal for cloudy or rainy weather. USD 85.
Buy
- Hippie Fair, Praça Osário - Ipanema. Every Sunday. Here you will find everything from soapstone Redentor statues to swizzle sticks carved with Amazonian birds. There are several vendors selling the same thing so you can have fun bargaining.
- 1 Hype Babalonia, Rua Jardim Botânico 971, Gávea (at the Jockey Club race trackn). Sa Su 14:00-22:00. This market has some more upscale merchandise and you will find fewer tourists. It is a place where middle class Cariocas do some bargain shopping.
- 2 Shopping Cidade Copacabana, R. Siqueira Campos, 138 (M1: Siqueira Campos).
- 3 Pé de Bói, Rua Ipiranga 55 - Laranjeiras (Rua Esteves Júnior cnr. Between M1, 2: Flamengo and Largo do Machado), ☏ +55 21 2285-4395. M-F 09:00-19:00, Sa 09:00-13:00. One of the best places to get authentic local handicrafts. A lovely store with many great gift ideas. There are two floors, the first full of items for sale, such as pieces made from wood, ceramic and fibre, fit to decorate any living room space. The second floor is where they sometimes have art exhibits, usually related to Brazilian history, culture or customs from various regions that are distinctly scattered throughout the country.
Books
- 4 Livraria Argumento, Rua Dias Ferreira 417 - Leblon, ☏ +55 21 2239-5294. M-F 09:00-12:30, Sa Su 10:00-12:30. Good selection of English books. Popular with local intellectuals and artists.
- Livraria da Travessa, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 572 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 3205-9002. Daily 12:00-00:00. Nice bookshop which allows you to choose a book to peruse while you sip coffee in the café. Small section of foreign-language books.
Shopping malls
- 5 Botafogo Praia Shopping, Praia de Botafogo 400 - Botafogo (From M1,2: Botafogo two blocks north), ☏ +55 21 3171-9559. Has a food court with a panoramic view.
- 6 Casa & Gourmet Shopping, Rua General Severiano, 97 Botafogo, ☏ +55 21 2542-5693. M-Sa 10:00-22:00; Su 15:00-21:00; holidays 15:00-21:00. This little mall has good restaurants and shops specialized in things for home from furniture to glasses.
- 7 Shopping Cassino Atlântico, Av. Atlântica 4240 - Copacabana (Take a bus 360, 382, 455, 484, 557 to stop BRS 3 - Joaquim Nabuco), ☏ +55 21 2523-8709.
- 8 Shopping Leblon, Av. Afrânio de Melo Franco, 290, Leblon. A new and sophisticated mall with 200 stores, 4 cinema screens and a food court that looks out on the Lagoa.
- 9 São Conrado Fashion Mall, Estrada da Gávea, 899 - São Conrado (Next to Gavea Golf & Country Club), ☏ +55 21 2111-4444. High-end mall with 140 stores including brand names like Diesel, Fendi, and Emporio Armani.
- 10 Shopping Rio Sul (Torre Rio Sul), Rua Lauro Sodré, 446 - Botafogo (just north of the tunnel from Botafogo to Copacabana), ☏ +55 21 3527-7257, +55 21 2122-8070. The largest mall in the Zona Sul, with 7 floors and 400 stores.
- 11 Shopping da Gávea, Rua Marquês de São Vicente 52 - Gávea (Rua das Acacias corner.), ☏ +55 21 2294-1096. Stores M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 13:00-21:00, holidays 14:00-21:00; food and leisure: M-Sa 10:00-23:00, Su and holidays 12:00-23:00. 200 stores and a movie theater. Services: free Wi-Fi, Family bathrooms; 'Torres' loading ChargeBox, recharge your mobile for free within 30 minutes; carts available for children, motorized wheel chairs; available for withdrawals and payments: Banco do Brasil, Itaú, Caixa e Banco 24 hr; English Support Services for tourist information about the city of Rio de Janeiro; valet parking.
Eat
Budget
- 1 Cervantes, Av Prado Junior 335B - Copacabana (M1: Cardeal Arcoverde), ☏ +55 21 2275-6147. Famous for making their classic filet mignon and pineapple sandwich in the blink of an eye.
- 2 Galeria Condor, Largo do Machado, 29 - Catete. This two-story shopping arcade has a number of inexpensive Middle Eastern restaurants on the ground floor.
Mid-range
- Le Bistrôt Du Cuisinier, Avenida Henrique Dumont 71 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 2540-4830. Some fine Parisian cuts here, roast duck, whatever you like.
- Berbigão, Rua Catete, 150 - Catete (next to Metro Catete), ☏ +55 21 2205-7245. Seafood restaurant with good selection.
- Cantina Donanna, Rua Domingos Ferreira 63-B - Copacabana. Italian cuisine. R$10-20.
- Casa da Feijoada, Rua Prudente Morais 10 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 2247-2776. Serves nothing but traditional, authentic Brazilian feijoada.
- Filé de Ouro, Rua Jardim Botânico 731 - Jardim Botânico, ☏ +55 21 2259-2396. A good alternative to churrascarias, this steakhouse is simple and cozy. During the weekends there are usually big lines, but the steak is delicious. Try Filé à Oswaldo Aranha, with toasted garlic.
- Gula Gula, Rua Anibal de Mendonça 132 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 2259-3084. A trendy restaurant with excellent salads, main dishes and deserts. R$20-35.
- Carretão, Rua Siqueiro Campos 23 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2236-3435. Good-value rodizio-- all-you-can-eat salad and barbecue. R$53.
- Nam Thai, Rua Rainha Guilhermina 95 B - Leblon, ☏ +55 21 2259-2962. Fairly authentic and very popular Thai restaurant. Reservations essential at weekends. R$50-100.
- New Natural, Rua Barão do Torre 173 - Ipanema. A good per-kilo restaurant. It is attached to a whole foods shop and has a good buffet selection, including sushi.
Splurge
- 3 Manekineko Leblon, Rua Dias Ferreira, 410 - Leblon, ☏ +55 21 2540-7641. Sushi.
- Marius Carnes, Avenida Atlântica 290 - Leme, ☏ +55 21 2104-9000. One of the best churrascaria in town.
- 4 Viva Gastronomia, Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, 796 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2549-3046. Very good all-you-can-eat rodizio.
- 5 Sushi Leblon, Rua Dias Ferreira, 256 - Leblon, ☏ +55 21 2512-7830.
- 6 Zazá Bistrô Tropical, Rua Joana Angélica, 40 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 2247-9101. A trendy, sexy and exotic place with great South Asian dishes. Good to go as a couple.
Drink
Bars
- Academia da Cachaça, Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26 - Leblon. With over 500 varieties, this is the place to start your studies of Brazil's national drink.
- Bip Bip, Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50D - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2267-9696. 19:00-01:00. This unpretentious and thoroughly un-touristy hole-in-the-wall botequim has been a favorite hang-out of top local musicians for decades and hosts regular live choro, samba, and bossanova performances.
- Empório, Rua Maria Quitéria 37 - Ipanema. Popular with the younger crowd, that hangs out there to listen to DJs playing rock. Most of the crowd hangs out there because they are underage and can't get in the underground nightclubs. Gets packed with foreigners during summer.
- Garota de Ipanema, Rua Vinicius de Moraes and Rua Prudente de Morais - Ipanema. There's no better place in Rio, Brazil, or even the world to watch bathing beauties stroll by than this cafe-bar, named after the song which according to legend was written here in 1962.
- Mamma Jamma Pizzeria Rústica, Rua Saturno de Brito, 50 (Jardim Botanico), ☏ +55 21 3875-1223. 18:00-02:00. Pizza and draft beer is the name of the game here, though good quality. And save room for dulce de leche.
Clubs
- 1 Casa da Matriz, Rua Henrique Novaes 107 - Botafogo, ☏ +55 21 99999-8633. Nightclub.
- 2 Fosfobox, Rua Siqueira Campos 143 - Copacabana (in Shopping Cidade Copacabana), ☏ +55 21 2548-7498. "Fosfo" as it's nicknamed by the goers has a strong Saturday rock-oriented party. Young, trendy crowd with djs playing mostly indie rock, discopunk and electro-rock. After 04:00 it has a more electronic after-party. Different parties happen on Fridays, but it's usually electronic, with favorite genres being electro, house and minimal. Other nights are usually more electronic also, but has had Rock parties also on Thursdays. On Tuesdays there's a dub/reggaeton party.
Samba clubs
- Cariocando, Rua Silveira Martins, 139 - Catete (100m from Metro Catete, away from the beach), ☏ +55 21 2557-3646. A fairly new establishment, offering a bit of Lapa in the Zona Sul. Live music (samba, choro, MPB) Tu-Su. They seem to have a knack for booking the lesser-known offspring and siblings of more famous musicians. R$12-15 cover.
Concert venues
- Bar do Tom, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32 - Leblon, ☏ +55 21 2274-4022. Hosts lesser names, mainly performing Brazilian music.
- Sala Cecilia Meireles, Largo da Lapa 47 - Lapa, ☏ +55 21 2224-3913. The city's main venue for classical performances.
Sleep
Budget
- 1 Ace Hostel, Rua São Clemente 23 - Botafogo, ☏ +55 21 2527-7452. Basic accommodations in large dormitories. Fabulous breakfast buffet. Excellent value. Right at the beach of Botafogo. From R$25.
- 2 Arpoador Inn, Rua Francisco Otaviano 177 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 2523-0060. Clean place, older interior, only a sidewalk apart from the beach. Singles/doubles from R$190/212.
- 3 Beija Flor, Rua Ferreira Viana, 20 - Flamengo (A block southeast of Metro Catete), ☏ +55 21 2285-2492. Typical budget hotel in Catete district. The rooms have no exterior windows and just open into the hallway, so take a look before deciding.
- 4 CabanaCopa Hostel, Travessa Guimarães Natal 12 - Copacabana (Three blocks from the beach), ☏ +55 21 3988-9912. A, unique hostel in the safest part of Copacabana. A large colonial house, fully renovated with spacious ensuite dorms, excellent social areas, great breakfast and friendly, helpful staff.
- 5 Che Lagarto Hostel Copacabana, Rua Barata Ribeiro, 111 (two blocks away from the beach), ☏ +55 21 3209-0348, copacabana@chelagarto.com. One of the most popular backpackers spots in Copacabana with engrossing New Year's and Carnaval events and a bar next door featuring live music. Big, airy rooms and great common areas, staffed by very knowledgeable, cool young people. From US$16.
- 6 Che Lagarto Hostel Ipanema, Paul Redfern, 48, ☏ +55 21 2512-8076, ipanema@chelagarto.com. Has both private and shared rooms. It is located one block away from the beach. You have access to Wi-Fi, a public kitchen and the bar. The breakfast is included. From US$19.
- Rio Copa Hostel, Frederico Pamplona 20 - Copacabana (Next to Hospital São Lucas), ☏ +55 21 99137-7782, copacabana@elmistihostels.com. Free pickup from the airport, breakfast. Dorms from US$13.
- 7 Ferreira Viana, Rua Ferreira Viana, 58 - Flamengo (One block south of Metro Catete), ☏ +55 21 2205-7396. As long as you don't mind climbing three flights of stairs (no elevator), this is as good a value as any among the budget hotels in the area, with friendly service.
- 8 Jucati, Rua Tenente Marones de Gusmão 85, ☏ +55 21 2547-5422. Well equipped apartments with free internet Wi-Fi available. R$120.
- 9 Riazor (formerly Monte Blanco), Rua do Catete 160 - Catete (just steps away from Metro Catete), ☏ +55 21 2225-0121. Excellent location and cheap, but the rooms could be nicer.
- 10 Copa Roots Hostel, Travessa Santa Leocádia 38 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 97916-7427, reserva@riobackpackers.com.
- 11 Terasse Hostel, Rua Farme de Amoedo 35 - Ipanema (one block from the beach), ☏ +55 21 2247-6130. R$40 in dormitory, R$140 for a couple..
- 12 Walk On The Beach Hostel, Rua Dias da Rocha 85 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2545-7500, contact@walk-on-the-beach.com.
Mid-range
- 13 Astoria Copacabana Hotel, Rua Republica do Peru, 345 - Copacabana (Two blocks south of Metro Cardeal Arcoverde), ☏ +55 21 2545-9090. Good mid-range hotel. Not to be confused with the more upscale Astoria Palace (below), operated by the same owners. Single US$100/110.
- 14 Rio Design Hotel, Rua Francisco Sá 17 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 3222-8800, reservas@hotelportinari.com.br. This calls itself a Design Hotel. Each floor has a different style of suites that is really what distinguishes this locality. Top floor restaurant for breakfast and a good view of local favelas. From US$160 (2014).
- 15 Rio Guesthouse, Rua Francisco Sá 5 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2521-8568, marta.rioguesthouse@gmail.com. A boutique guest house on the beachfront, in a 1200-m² penthouse. Beautifully decorated, very comfortable.
- 16 Hotel Vermont, Rua Visconde de Piraja 254 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 3202-5500. Affiliated with the nearby San Marco Hotel and Hotel Carlton in Leblon. Very friendly and helpful service. Single from US$160 (2014).
- 17 Rio INN Art, Rua Anita Garibaldi, 87, ☏ +55 21 2256-2776, copasuitesanita@chelagarto.com. The Suites has two types of rooms: Private and Private Low Cost. It is 4 blocks away from the beach. From US$38.
- 18 Che Lagarto Suites Copacabana Santa Clara, Rua Santa Clara, 304, ☏ +55 21 3495-3133, copasuites@chelagarto.com. The Suites has two types of rooms: Private and Private Low Cost. Breakfast, public kitchen and Wi-Fi included. From US$95.
Splurge
- 19 Astoria Palace Hotel, Atlantica Avenue, 1866 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2545-9550. Fantastic rooftop pool with a great view of the beach. From US$180 (2014).
- 20 Belmond Copacabana Palace, Avenida Atlântica, 1702 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2548-7070, fax: +55 21 2235-7330, reservas@copacabanapalace.com.br. An iconic hotel dating to 1923, with a history of hosting the famous and wealthy. Arguably the best hotel in Rio.
- Copacabana Praia Hotel, Rua Francisco Otaviano nº 30 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2172-1001, fax: +55 21 2287-3344. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Four-star hotel. Services: pool, restaurant, sauna, Wi-Fi, IDD telephone, safety deposit box, air conditioning, room service, outdoor pool, minibar, laundry, LCD TV, bar. Single/double from US$140/150 (2014).
- 21 Hotel Fasano Rio de Janeiro, Avenida Vieira Souto, 80 - Ipanema, ☏ +55 21 3202-4000, rio@fasano.com.br.
- 22 JW Marriott Hotel Rio de Janeiro, Avenida Atlântica 2600, Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2545-6500, fax: +55 21 2545-6555. Over US$350.
- 23 Othon Palace Rio, Avenida Atlântica, 3264 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2106-1500. Over USD250.
- 24 Sheraton Rio Hotel & Resort, Avenida Niemeyer, 121 - Leblon (at the west end of Leblon), ☏ +55 21 2274-1122. The only hotel in the Zona Sul with direct beach access. US$330-530 (2014).
- 25 Hotel Sofitel, Avenida Atlântica, 4240 - Copacabana, ☏ +55 21 2525-1232, fax: +55 21 2525-1200, sofitelrio@accorhotels.com.br. Over US$330.