Alytus
Alytus is a city in Dzūkija or Dainava Region of southern Lithuania. It has an old core but is mostly modern and industrial, and you'd probably only visit if you were in the refrigerator business. In 2023 Alytus had a population of 53,514.
Understand
The original medieval settlement was east of the River Nemunas around the castle. This town, sometimes called Alytus I, became part of the Tsarist Empire in 1795 with the river as the border. The west bank settlement or Alytus II developed from the 15th century around the site now occupied by the Church of the Guardian Angels; it became part of the Prussian Empire. The two only combined in 1915.
In the 20th century the city spread far beyond its core, mostly on the west bank. Major industries here are machinery and electrical equipment especially refrigerators and freezers, timber products such as furniture and pre-fab housing, and textiles including clothing and sportswear.
The Tourist Information Centre is on St Dariaus & St Girėno g 1, corner with Alyvų tak. It's open M-F 09:00-18:00.
Get in
Alytus is 105 km west of Vilnius, and also linked by major roads to Kaunas, Lazdijai on the border with Poland, and Hrodna in Belarus.
Kautra buses run hourly from Vilnius, taking 1 hr 40 min by the direct route or 2 hr 10 min via Trakai. Bicycles are carried free on Kautra buses.
They run hourly from Kaunas, taking just over an hour via Prienai, and usually continue to Druskininkai or Varėna. From Marijampolė change at Kaunas. For timetables and fares see Autobusubilieta.
1 Autobusų stotis the bus station is on Naujoji g two km northwest of city centre. No much here, the toilets are often locked. Some buses also stop in town centre on their way here.
Alytus has no railway service and the station 3 km west of town is of interest only to archaeologists of post-Soviet dereliction.
Get around
Town centre is walkable but you need wheels for outlying sights.
The main taxi operator is Alytaus Taxi (+370 315 42222).
See
- 1 Church of the Guardian Angels (Alytaus Šv. Angelų Sargų bažnyčia), Savanorių g 5, ☏ +370 315 52238. RC wooden church built in 1830, with neo-baroque altars.
- Ethnography Museum (Kraštotyros muziejus), Savanorių g 6 (south side of church), ☏ +370 315 53370. Tu-F 09:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-16:00. Fascinating local history museum, child-friendly. Free.
- 2 Church of St Louis (Alytaus Šv. Liudviko bažnyčia), Panemuninkėlių g 6, ☏ +370 315 50044. The first church on this site was St John the Baptist in 1524, but it was wooden and burned down. It was rebuilt in stone in neoclassical style in 1818 and dedicated to St Louis. It's RC.
- 3 Alytus Castle is just a grassy knoll on the east riverbank, reached by Piliakalnio gatvė. It was wooden and first documented in 1377, though it's probably from the 11th century. It was wrecked by the Teutonic Knights and never rebuilt.
- Antanas Jonynas Museum south edge of town remains closed.
Do
- Theatre: Alytus City Theatre is at Rotušės a 2, 200 m south of Guardian Angels Church.
- Cinema: Kinas Dainava is on Sporto g, 500 m south of Guardian Angels Church.
- Football: DFK Dainava were promoted in 2022 and now play soccer in Lyga A, the country's top tier. Their home ground Alytus Stadium (capacity 3790) is 1 km south of town centre. The playing season is March-Nov.
- ASRC the sports and recreation centre is at Naujoji g 52 towards the bus station. It's open M-F and has a pool, gym, fitness classes and multi-use sports ground.
- Cycle: the former railway east-west through town is now a cycle route.
- Alytus Film Festival is in November but is not confirmed as happening in 2023.
Buy
- Supermarket: the main store is Lidl next to the bus station, open daily 07:00-22:00.
Eat
- Dzūkų alaus restoranas, Vilniaus g 35 (100 m north of Guardian Angels Church), ☏ +370 601 90888. M-Th 11:00-23:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00, Su 11:00-22:00. Popular place for Lithuanian food and beer, always seems busy.
- Čeburekinė is a fast food outlet at Vilniaus g 13 by Senas Namas Hotel, open M-F 10:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-18:00.
- Lisushi serves sushi at S Dariaus & S Girėno g 7, 100 m south of Guardian Angels Church, daily 11:00-22:00.
- Druska pipirai is a cafe at Pulko g 12a, 200 m south of Guardian Angels Church. Good food, service erratic. It's open daily 10:00-22:00-ish.
- Klevelis Gastropub is a burger place at Jotvingių g 4, round the corner from Druska pipirai. It's open W-Sa 12:00-21:00, Su 12:00-20:00.
- Carpe Diem cafe at Rotušės a 16 is open daily 10:00-23:00.
Drink
- Pušis bar at Vilniaus g 16 has good food and is open M-Th 10:00-20:00, F Sa 10:00-03:00, Su 11:00-18:00.
- Dzūkų Baras at Rotušės a 16 opposite Town Hall also has good trad food. It's open M-Sa 09:00-23:00, Su 11:00-22:00.
Sleep
- Hotel Vaidila, Rotušės a 12 (100 m south of main square), ☏ +370 315 56188. Simple clean hotel. B&B double €60.
- 1 Senas Namas, Užuolankos g 24, ☏ +370 315 53489. Mid-range hotel, some repairs needed, okay for what you pay. B&B double €70.
- 2 Hotel Dzukija, Pulko g 14, ☏ +370 618 52000. Boxy hotel renovated in 2023, simple clean place. B&B double €30.
Connect
As of May 2023, Alytus and its approach roads have 4G from all Lithuanian carriers, though the signal is patchy from Tele2. 5G has not reached this area.
Go next
- Daugai 22 km east is a lakeside resort.
- Vilnius the capital is a must-see for its baroque architecture.
- Trakai the medieval capital has a scenic island castle.
- Kaunas is mostly modern but has an old centre and the bastions of its wartime defences.