Nusa Penida
Nusa Penida is the largest of three islands off the south eastern coast of Bali, the others being Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan. It is an island of outstanding natural rugged beauty.
Understand
With an area of 247 km², Nusa Penida is much larger than the better known Nusa Lembongan. However, tourist infrastructure is not as advanced as Lembongan. The north shore is the most densely populated part of the island and is where most tourism is based. This is also where the beaches are and where the seaweed farms are. Seaweed farming started on the island in the 1980s as a way for locals to get an income. Sadly prices are declining and so is production. Most locals still derive their income from subsistence farming.
The west and south side of the island is carpeted with limestone cliffs and magnificent views but not many beaches that can be accessed by land.
Due to a lack of natural fresh water, little is grown or produced on Nusa Penida outside of the rain season, and even a lot of produce comes in by boat.
Nusa Penida has become an unofficial bird sanctuary for endangered Balinese and Indonesian bird species, including the critically endangered Bali Starling (Leucopsar rothschildi). In 2004 the Friends of the National Park Foundation (FNPF) started an introduction program onto Nusa Penida of the near-extinct Bali Starling.
The waters around Nusa Penida are part of a marine park authority (MPA) and are home to diverse corals and fishes. Nusa Penida is part of the coral triangle which is a massive area renowned to be "the amazon of the sea" as it provides habit for the many fishes to breed in. Nusa Penida is renowned as one of the best diving sites in the world and is also home to the giant manta ray and mola mola (oceanic sunfish).
Get in
The only way to get to Nusa Penida is by boat.
From Bali
Speedboats
Nusa Penida is about 30 min away from the east coast of Bali by speedboat. Operators and timings change constantly, but local booking engines Skypenida and 12go offer reasonably up-to-date schedules and online booking options. Most leave from Sanur port (Sanur Beach Pelabuhan Rakyat) and head to one of the many ports on the north coast — check carefully to see where you'll end up. The boats are cramped, occasionally unsafe, and depending on the tides you can expect to get wet boarding and disembarking, so dress accordingly!
Speedboat Safety
In rough seas, wear the lifejackets. They are usually on a rack above you. Just because others are not, does not mean you should throw caution to the wind. There have been several recent instances of tourist fast boats capsizing. Do not let the size of the fast boats and distance of only 25 km between Sanur on Bali and Sampalan Beach on Nusa Penida fool you; this is the open ocean in between the two islands. Even if the weather seems fine at port, these can be very rough waters with strong currents, and waves sometimes reaching between 6-10 meters. Sit towards the back of the boat for less turbulence and on the aisle for easier evacuation access in case of emergencies.
- Angel Billabong, Sanur to Banjar Nyuh, ☏ +62 853 333 99175. 07:00. Angel billabong have 10 departures a day from 07:00: 5 times a day from Sanur and 5 times from Nusa Penida. One-way fare Rp 150,000/person and return Rp 300,000/person. Depending on who is staffing the ticket desk, they will ask for much more but stand your ground. Locals pay Rp 100,000.
- Caspla Bali Boat, Sanur to Buyuk, ☏ +62 361 7912299. Speed boat service, 3 times daily to Nusa Penida. Scheduled departure from Sanur Beach at 11:00, 14:00 and 16:30. Departure from Buyuk, Nusa Penida at 08:00, 12:30 and 16:00. One way fare Rp 125,000/person and return Rp 250,000/person.
- Idola Express, Sanur to Sampalan, ☏ +62 878 62251815.
- Starfish Fast Cruise, Sanur to various ports.
Ferries
You can catch the daily public roll-on, roll-off ferry (large boat that includes vehicles) from Padang Bai. The ro-ro departs twice a day from either direction. It is slower but much cheaper than the fast boats. In November 2017 only one departure a day at 10:00. Tickets can be bought from 09:00 in a Building called "Loket" for Rp 31,000 per adult. The boat departs between 10:30 and 13:00, depending on the quantity of passengers (Oct 2018).
Day cruises
The vast majority of visitors to Nusa Penida do so on day trip cruises, returning to Bali for the night. All the speedboat operators listed earlier also offer tours, but there are a few dedicated cruise operators as well.
- Quicksilver. Runs daily cruises from Benoa Harbour in Bali to their monstrous pontoon which floats off Toyapakeh. The trip includes watersport activities centred on the pontoon. US$120/60 adult/child.
From Nusa Lembongan
- Public boats depart daily at 06:00 close to the suspension bridge between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan and run to Toyapakeh or Buyuk Harbour in northern Nusa Penida. There are also services from the Jungut Batu area of Nusa Lembongan to Nusa Penida.
- Charter boats are available, departing from and arriving at the same area as the public boats. If you are staying on Nusa Lembongan, ask at your hotel. If not, go to the shoreline close to Yellow Bridge or to the beach at Jungut Batu and ask around amongst the boatmen. Rates certainly vary but expect to pay around Rp 300,000.
Get around
Renting a motorcycle is the most practical option, and this will cost you about Rp 70,000. Look for vendors in Toyopakeh and Sampalan (or more likely, they will find you!) Car rentals are available but very expensive (about Rp 650,000 per day).
Some visitors from Nusa Lembongan arrive with rented pushbikes - make sure you get permission to take the bike off Nusa Lembongan first. Roads in Nusa Penida are rough, hilly away from the north coast, and in remote areas no more than stone-strewn tracks.
Local public transport is in small old bemos or on the back of a truck. These vehicles ply the north coast road with some regularity, but elsewhere on the island do not bank on anything.
See
There are many quiet and secluded white sand beaches along the north and northwest coasts of Nusa Penida. Other geographical highlights include limestone caves, spectacular high coastal cliffs with karst formations and offshore pinnacles in the south and east, and rugged hill tops in the high centre.
Springs
- 1 Tembeling Rainforest & Spring. The whole southern coast of Nusa Penida has spectacular, high white limestone cliffs which will simply take your breath away. Tembeling rainforest showcases the last remnants of rainforest that covered the island many years ago. Green, leafy and cool there are also two natural springs that you can bathe in. Continue your walk down to the beach for spectacular views.
- 2 Peguyangan Spring (Peguyangan Waterfall). Set on the south side of the island the spring is at the bottom of 700 blue stairs. The spring at the bottom is small but the scenery on the way down and at the bottom is magnificent. Wear proper shoes as footings can be a little precarious. This climb down and up is not for everyone especially those that do not like heights as the steps are set at the side of the cliff.
Beaches
- 3 Atuh Beach, Pejukutan, ☏ +62 818-793-913. At the east side of the island Atuh beach welcomes the sun first every morning. Walk along magnificent limestone cliff tops and if you are up for a bit of exercise climb down the steps to the beautiful white sand beach. A photographer's delight. Food and refreshments are available, and there is good snorkelling for small fishes.
- 4 Suwehan Beach, Tanglad, ☏ +62 822-3617-6345. Set in the south east corner of the island, Suwehan is one of the most remote beaches. The steps down (and up!) are a little strenuous but worth it for the beautiful, secluded white sand beach and magnificent scenery. The beach is not necessarily swimmable, depending on tides. The scenic drive to Suwehan takes one through farming communities, although the road is poor and quite steep in parts.
- 5 Kelingking Beach, Bunga Mekar Village, ☏ +62 818-793-913. A hidden beach in the village of Bunga Mekar, with nice views over the hills. The sight features a limestone headland covered in green, against the deep blue waters of the ocean. This unique formation is reminiscent of a Tyrannosaurus Rex head, hence its nickname ‘T-Rex Bay’. The secluded beach itself is down a rugged 400-m cliffside hike, recommended only for the fit and adventurous.
- Heat Emergencies: There is little shade on the coasts of Nusa Penida, especially on this side of the island. The weather can get extremely hot in the warm season (up to 40 ° C) during peak hours of sunlight, not to mention the humidity. Do not overestimate your athletic abilities as comparable to the body’s ability to handle the heat and direct sun on a 400 meter vertical hike with no shade. Medical infrastructure on the island is limited and heat stroke is a serious medical emergency. It is not advisable to conduct this hike in the warm season between 10:00-14:00 when the sun is at its strongest.
- 6 Diamond Beach, Pejukutan. A beautiful beach.
Temples
- 7 Pura Goa Giri Putri / Goa Karang Sari (Giri Putri Cave Temple / Karangsari or Karangsari Cave), Karangsari / Suana. Large limestone caves on the east coast about 4 km north of Suana village, near the village of Karangsari. The entrance is a short, vertical climb from the road level, and leads to the temple; you will need to be suitably clad in a sarong (can be rented for Rp 5,000 from the shop at the roadside), sign the visitor book, and make a donation. Of great religious and cultural significance, there are Hindu and Buddhist temples and worshippers may be present. Photography is allowed. Along with bats, various cave insects, and whipscorpions, the cave is the only known habitat in the world of two species of freshwater crab, Karstama emdi and Karstarma balicum. Both crab species are critically endangered and threatened by the increasing development of the cave for worship and tourists. Rp 5,000 to hire a sarong, and a temple donation of Rp 20,000 or so.
- 8 Pura Ped, Ped village (at Ped village on the main north coast road between Toyapakeh and Sampalan). An extremely important temple to the Balinese Hindus many of whom make an annual pilgrimage to Nusa Penida specifically to pray here. Worth a visit especially at full moon for the ceremony which goes on into the night. Entry in full ceremonial dress (sarong and sash) for both men and women is required.
- 9 Pura Batu Medahu and Pura Batu Kuning. Two interesting and stunningly located temples on the east coast road south of Suana. Instead of taking the main road from Suana heading south west, continue on the coast road towards the tiny village of Semaya. You will come to the two temples (Pura Batu Madan first) after about 1.5 km and before you reach Semaya.
Others
- 10 Crystal Bay, Sakti (take the only small road which heads west from the main road at Sakti village and keep going until you hit the coast). A stunning white sand beach at Banjar Penida west of Sakti village on the north western coast facing Nusa Ceningan. Perfect clear waters and excellent snorkelling. Lovely white sand beach and a great place for a picnic. A truly idyllic spot and you are likely to have it to yourself apart for the odd local villager and maybe a diveboat offshore.
- 11 Puncak Mundi (Mundi Hill), Klumpu. The highest point of Nusa Penida at some 521 metres above sea level. Great views from here. This area is also home to now defunct alternative energy facility with wind turbines and a solar panel farm. Puncak Mundi temple perches high on the hill.
- 12 Broken Beach & Angel Billabong (Pasih Uug) (in the southwest, walking distance from Angels Billabong). Stunning views from cliff tops show off the natural hole that encompasses Broken Beach. You can enter the infinity pool at low tide, but for safety reasons please do not enter at high tide when waves are crashing over the edge.
Do
This is a wild, rugged and largely untamed island which offers plenty to those with an adventurous spirit.
Trekking and mountain-biking are rewarding with amazing coastline views. The terrain away from the coast is hilly rising to nearly 521m and the vista back to Bali is stunning. Camping is a wise option for those who really want to explore this wild island away from the populated northern coast.
Absorb the culture. The native people are Hindu as in Bali. Locals speak Nusa Penidan, an ancient dialect of Balinese no longer heard elsewhere, younger locals speak Bahasa Indonesia also. The architecture and dance is also distinct to the island. There is also a Muslim village situated in Toyapakeh on the north west shore which faces Nusa Lembongan.
Birdwatchers who find themselves with the opportunity to visit Nusa Penida should know that a thriving population of the superb white-tailed tropicbirds breeds on the south and southeastern cliffs of the island. Keep your eyes peeled. Nusa Penida has been designated an island-wide bird sanctuary by Friends of the National Parks Foundation (FNPF). Various endangered Indonesian bird species have been released onto the island, including the Bali Starling, Java Sparrow, Mitchell's Lorrikeet, Lesser Sulphur Crested Cockatoo.
Island & snorkelling tours
Tour the 200-km² island or snorkel with giant mantas and dive with mola mola.
There are various tour operators on the island that will take you on private guided tours by car or scooter as you prefer. Packages can be tailor made to suit your budget and time schedule.
- Nusa Penida Tour, ☏ +62818793913, hi@natanusapenida.com.
- Nusa Penida Tour (Nusa Penida Tour), Jl. Puncak Mundi, Nusa Penida, Klungkung - Bali, ☏ +6281339448513, info@tripnusapenida.com.
- 1 Nusa Penida Tour Packages, ☏ +62 81333771288, info@nusapenidatour.net. 6AM-11PM.
Diving
Nusa Penida is best known as a world class diving destination. There are more than 20 identified dive sites around the island, the most notable including Crystal Bay, Manta Point, Toyapakeh, Suana Bay and Malibu Point. The rich waters around the three islands support no less than 247 species of coral and 562 species of fish.
Many dive operators based in Bali and neighbouring Nusa Lembongan offer specific dive trips to Nusa Penida. Special attractions include fabulous Mola Mola (Oceanic Sunfish) in season and large Manta Rays year round. Mola Mola are migratory fish and most likely from July to October although sightings are reported all year round. There is diving available here for beginners but most of the dives require a decent level of experience as currents are strong and unpredictable.
Freediving the rich waters around the island is one of the most satisfying ways of exploring the underwater world. Several locations provide great opportunities to see the abundant corral and marine life. Going with a knowledgeable operator is important as the currents around the island are quite strong and in places unpredictable. Fancy to see sharks in Malibu point or dive with Mantas away from the snorkeling hotspots? Take a course with one of the freediving schools and learn more about your hidden abilities to dive deep without a tank.
Dive operators
- Nusa Penida Watersport +62 822 3681 4935 Locally owned and operated with a really good reputation. They have PADI certified instructors and also do snorkelling trips.
- Octopus Dive, Ped
- Penida Dive Resort, Toyapakeh, ☏ +62 813 37077590. A Czech-run dive centre located on Nusa Penida.
- 1 Purple Dive Penida, Jln Raya Ped, ☏ +6281339986262, info@purpledivepenida.com. 7am-6pm. PADI Dive Center
- Bali Aqua Penida, Jl Raya PED, Buyuk, ☏ +62 812 37779099, divingpenida@gmail.com.
Freediving
- Freedive Nusa, ☏ +62 821 47417679. SSI & Molchanovs certified and led by one of only three instructor trainers in Indonesia. One minute walk to the home reef and regular guided trips including freediving gear.
- Apnea Penida, ☏ +62 821 46815129, info@apneapenida.com. Offers a variety of freediving classes suitable for any level of experience from total beginner to instructor. Also provides coaching and training sessions, freediving trips, and yoga classes. Offers courses from Apnea Total, AIDA, and Molchanovs.
Buy
There are two ATMs in Sampalan, one for Visa and one for MasterCard, there is one ATM is in Toyapakeh. However, it's best to bring enough rupiah with you just in case the ATMs are out of order.
Eat
There are simple local warungs on Nusa Penida and since 2016, there are a few great western style places for a meal, music and sunset drink.
Budget
- BFC. Fried Chicken.
Mid-Range
- The Gallery. Serves all day breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
- Star Semabu Resort Nusa Penida, Jl. Raya Toya Pakeh – Ped, Nusapenida, Kabupaten Klungkung, ☏ +62 813-3866-5554. Offers sweeping views of the island and sea from its location on the quiet hills of Nusa Penida.
Splurge
- Dapur Nusa. Serves fresh grilled fish.
- Warung Jungle. Serves seafood.
- Warung Tu Pande. Serves western and Indonesian dishes.
Sleep
Most holiday accommodation is to be found between Toyapakeh and Sampalan although accommodation is opening up in other areas too.
Visitors wishing to explore the remote, rugged areas of the island in the high centre and south may be able to find informal accommodation with a local family by asking a head of village (Kepala Desa). The only other alternative away from the north coast is camping.
- Friends of National Parks (FNPF), Ped, ☏ +62 361 977978. FNPF's centre offers simple accommodation.
- Losmen Trang, Toyapakeh, ☏ +62 852 37643649. Rooms are on the beachfront in Toyapakeh
- Penginapan Jose Homestay, Toyapakeh. 6 rooms located right on beach road in Toyapakeh. Great views and affordable.
- Ari La Casa, Toyapakeh.
- Namaste Bungalows, thatched bungalows, Sakti Village, on the way to Crystal Bay.
- Bintang Bungalows, thatched bungalows, Sakti Village. Locally owned.
- Coco Resort, thatched bungalows, Sakti Village.
- Full Moon Bungalows, Ped
- Nusa Garden Bungalows, Sampalan (near the hospital on the main road), ☏ +62 812 39901421 (WatsApp & Tel), andriec.as@gmail.com. Bungalows set across a nice garden complex are decorated in Balinese style, a 5-minute walk to the beach. The staff are very sociable and are happy to take guests to various interesting parts of the island (temples/waterfalls etc). Free Wi-Fi.
- Ring Sameton Inn, Ped near FNPF, ☏ +62 361 7853464, +62 821 46763612, +62 813 37985141, +62 813 51542596, fax: +62 361 7853465, info@ringsameton-nusapenida.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 13:00. 12 A/C rooms with hot-cold water shower/satellite LCD TV/restaurant/24 hr security, laundry service, wide parking area and garden.
- 1 Rumah Pohon "Tree House", banjar pelilit - Atuh, ☏ +6281239901421, andriec.as@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Rp 300,000.
- Mae Mae Beach House, Kutampi.
- Caspla Bali Beach Club, Buyuk
- Nusa Penida Beach Club, Buyuk
- 2 Hostel Nusa Penida, Br. Sampalan, Batununggul (near the hospital on the main road, on the territory Nusa Garden Bungalow), ☏ +6281239901421, nusapenidahotels@gmail.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 10:00. Nice place, free Wi-fi, with a restaurant serving European food. From Rp 85,000.
Connect
- International phone operators: 101
- International Direct Dialing prefix: 001, 007, or 008.
Directory inquiries
- 108 from a landline or 0361-108 from a mobile phone.
Wi-fi - there are more and more places offering free Wi-fi but connection speed and reliability is still not fast as people would like.
Go next
The best advice is to get out from one of the northern points in the same way as you came in. A boat to Nusa Lembongan and then onward to Bali or Lombok is recommended. To get to Lombok or other points east you will have to travel to Padang Bai and connect with boats there.