Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Cape Breton Highlands National Park is the second largest Canadian national park in Atlantic Canada and the largest in the Maritime provinces. It covers 948 km² (366 sq mi) on the island of Cape Breton in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia. It contains a significant portion of the Cabot Trail, the world-famous overland route.
Understand
The park is roughly definable by its two coasts. The western side represents the Acadian culture and the eastern side is much more English, and in fact the park feels like two parks. Most of the publicity shots come from the western portion of the park, although the eastern part is much more visited as it is more accessible.
History
The park was established in 1936 to protect the specific ecosystem contained within.
Landscape
The park is best known for the Cabot Trail. This trails winds its way along the coast with mountains on one side and the water on the other. The access to the park is provided primarily by the coastal road. No viable way of exploring the interior exists, though this is where the highest mountains can be found, including White Hill - the tallest point in Nova Scotia.
Flora and fauna
Iconic Canadian mammals such as bear and moose are visible in the park. Bunchberries dominate the ground during certain periods of summer. Wild blueberries are also present, and if able to properly identify them they make an interesting snack.
Climate
The park is in Canada's Maritime provinces and its weather is comparable to the overall region, with both relatively mild winters and summers. Expect a lot of snow in wintertime.
Visitor information
Visitor centres near both entrances to the park along the Cabot Trail sell permits, tickets to events, souvenirs, and provide information on park facilities and activities. They also offer an opportunity for a rest stop, with toilets, picnic tables, and electric car chargers. They are open mid-May to mid-October.
Get in
The park is accessible primarily by car. The area is not served particularly well by bus. It is approximately four hours from Halifax to either park entrance. There are steep inclines and drivers should be prepared for such challenges. The Cabot Trail is also a common destination for bicyclists, so be prepared to share the road.
Driving the entire Cabot Trail in a loop is the best way to experience the entire park, and indeed Cape Breton Island since it starts and ends further south at the Trans-Canada Highway. To drive the loop in a clockwise direction, follow the western leg of the trail from the Trans-Canada Highway (exit 7, following signs for Cheticamp). For a counter-clockwise loop, start on the eastern leg closer to Sydney (exit 11, following signs for Ingonish). Driving clockwise puts you on the inside of the highway (which may be preferred by passengers who like being further from the edge of the cliff during sharp turns). Clockwise is sometimes the more popular direction simply because it's the first turn coming from the west. If you're setting out to do the entire trail in a single day, consider whether you'd like to catch sunset over the water on the west side of the park.
Fees and permits
A permit is required to visit any of the park features or use any park services (such as parking lots, washrooms, and lookouts). Additional fees apply for camping, special events, and equipment rentals.
Daily/seasonal fees for 2023:
- Adult: $8.50/$41.75
- Senior: $7.25/$36.75
- Youth and children 17 and under: free
- Family/group (up to 7 people in a single vehicle): $16.75/$83.75
Seasonal Early Bird pass available from November 1 to June 30:
- Adult: $21
- Senior: $36.75
- Family/group: $83.75
Parks Canada Passes
The Discovery Pass provides unlimited admission for a full year at over 80 Parks Canada places that charge a daily entrance fee. It provides faster entry and is valid for 12 months from date of purchase. Prices for 2024 (taxes included):
- Family/group (up to 7 people in a vehicle): $151.25
- Children and youth (0-17): free
- Adult (18-64): $75.25
- Senior (65+): $64.50
The Cultural Access Pass: people who have received their Canadian citizenship in the past year can qualify for free entry to some sites.
Fishing per permit
- Daily: $9.80
- Seasonal: $34.30
Get around
The Cabot Trail is the only corridor through the park, so driving it in either direction will take you close to the most of the access points for all sites within the park. It runs about 108 km (67 mi) around the west, north, and east perimeter of the park. For the most part, it is a narrow corridor with one lane in either direction, following the ocean coastline and forests of the highlands; be prepared for sharp turns, steep hills, wildlife, heavy rain, and fog.
The park is best visited by motor vehicle. Public transport options are limited. There are not many places to find fuel within the park, and it is worth inquiring at the visitor centres or gas stations when to next expect gas to be available. Although the park is a worldwide destination for bicyclists, it is not recommended for novices.
See
Most points of interest in the park are accessible by the park's many walking trails. These may be for history (such as at Lone Shieling) or for the views (l'Acadien, Skyline). Skyline trail is also notable for its sunset walks (which many consider to be a must). Many waterfalls are accessible by back roads or along various trails. Roadside lookout points provide views of and from the Cabot Trail along the park's perimeter.
- 1 Lone Shieling. A Scottish-style sheep crofters hut built in 1942. Most of the old growth forest in the park is protected and not accessible to visitors, but a short, easy trail here takes visitors through a small portion of the forest, with 350-year old sugar maple trees still standing.
- 2 MacKenzie Mountain look-off. As the Cabot Trail winds its way up MackKenzie Mountain, several roadside viewpoints provide safe opportunities to park the car and look out over the Gulf of St. Lawrence or the Cape Breton Highlands. Sharp eyes may be able to spot whales in the cove below. Interpretive panels provide information at each stop.
- 3 Whale Interpretive Centre, 104 Harbour Rd (Pleasant Bay). Jun through mid-Oct. A small museum with exhibits covering whales and marine life found in the waters surrounding Cape Breton, including a full size model of a pilot whale.
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The park is known for kayaking, whale watching and it many walking paths. There is also a world-renowned golf course in Ingonish.
- 1 Cape Breton Highlands Links, 247 Keltic In-Road (Ingonish Beach), ☏ +1 902-285-2880, toll-free: +1-800-565-0444. 18-hole, par 72 golf course on the eastern shore of the park. The course was designed in 1939 by Stanley Thompson for the National Parks Service, and nicknamed the “the mountains and ocean” course. Green fees apply in addition to the park entry permit.
Hike
There are 26 hiking trails maintained in the park, ranging in length and difficulty. Trails provide access to panoramic ocean views, unique aspects of the park's natural environment, and some historic points of interest. Maps and guides are available at the visitors centres. Some notable trails include:
- 2 Broad Cove Mountain Trail. A short 2.3 km (1.4 mi), 168 m (551 ft) climb to views of the rocky ocean coast and Broad Cove.
- 3 Clyburn Valley Trail. An easy 8.5 km (5.3 mi) out-and-back hike along the river and into the forest, with some views of the park's golf course near the beginning. The trail gets less maintained further out, and passes the ruins of an old gold mine camp.
- 4 Fishing Cove Trail. The longest (12 km (7.5 mi)), and one of the most challenging trails in the park. A somewhat steep, sometimes muddy, 355 m (1,165 ft) slope takes hikers down to a small ocean cove that was home to a small Scottish fishing community. A few backcountry camping sites are located on the trail (permitted by advance registration), but well-prepared hikers can enjoy the hike in a single day, with time for a swim before the uphill walk back to the Cabot Trail.
- 5 Le vieux chemin du Cap-Rouge. An easy 9 km (5.6 mi) out-and-back hike that follows the old route of the Cabot Trail through the location of an old Acadian settlement, with signage explaining the history of the region.
- 6 Salmon Pools. One of the longer trails in the park, Salmon Pools is 9.5 km (5.9 mi) out-and-back along a river canyon and through Acadian forest.
- 7 Skyline Trail. One of the most popular trails, known for views of the ocean and Cabot Trail from the headland, and the chance to glimpse whales and moose in the distance. The trail is 6.5 km (4.0 mi) out-and-back or a 8.2 km (5.1 mi) loop.
Swim
Swimmers can choose between ocean and freshwater lake beaches. The ocean coastline is rugged and rocky in many places, so water shoes can make beach strolls and wading easier on the feet. Expect cold water in the ocean, and rough currents or riptides that can make swimming dangerous in some weather conditions. Surf guards patrol Ingonish Beach in July and August.
- 8 Ingonish Beach. Close to the eastern entrance to the park, this beach features a cove that was cut off from the ocean centuries ago, offering a freshwater lake and ocean beach to swimmers.
- 9 Black Brook Beach. The park's most popular beach, featuring a small waterfall and brook.
- 10 La Bloc Beach. On the west side of the park, so the water is slightly warmer and the sun sets over the water.
- 11 North Bay Beach. A quieter, somewhat sandier beach not far from Ingonish, but offering fewer amenities and services.
Buy
Chéticamp and Ingonish serve as the two mains service towns on either side of the park. There is also a gift store in the visitor centre in Cheticamp. There are smaller towns to the north of the park where some supplies are available.
Eat
Ingonish provides a decent choice of restaurants and has a few choices for grocery stores. Chéticamp provides the same options, but Acadian cuisine can also be sampled. Seafood is popular throughout the area. As the Cabot Trail leaves the park boundary along the north side of the park, there are a few seasonal family-style restaurants and shops with light snacks, ice cream cones, and coffee in Pleasant Bay and Dingwall.
- 1 Morrison's, 5 Bay Saint Lawrence Rd (Near Dingwall), ☏ +1-902-383-2727. Noon-7PM (Closed Su)(Jun-Oct). Varied menu with pub-staples and seafood options.
- 2 Rusty Anchor Restaurant, 23197 Cabot Trail (Pleasant Bay), ☏ +1-902-224-1313. 11:30AM-8PM (Late May - Mid Oct). Mostly seafood dishes, but with a few beef, chicken and vegetarian options on the menu.
To splurge, the Keltic Lodge resort within the park near Ingonish provides a seaside locale with several options for fine dining and the only place in the park where alcohol can be purchased. In addition to two dining rooms in the main lodge, the resort features a restaurants on the resort grounds and another at the golf course:
- 3 Arduaine Restaurant and Lounge (Keltic Lodge). 11AM-10PM (Lounge 4:30-11PM Su-W, 4:30-midnight Th-Sa).
- 4 Stanley's Sunset Grill (Cape Breton Highlands Links). 7AM-7PM. Pub located in the pro shop, also open to non-golfers.
The only other eatery within the park's confines is at the beach in Ingonish.
If you plan on camping and picnicing, grocery stores are found in both Chéticamp and Ingonish on the way into the park. A smaller market in Dingwall, outside the park but along the Cabot Trail also sells groceries, ice, liquor, and propane.
- 5 Cabot Trail Food Market, 29352 Cabot Trail (Dingwall), ☏ +1-902-383-2677.
Drink
There are liquor stores in Ingonish and Chéticamp.
The park has imposed a ban on drinking inside the park on Canada Day.
Sleep
Lodging
- 1 The Keltic Lodge, 383 Keltic In Road (Ingonish), ☏ +1-902-285-2880. The only lodging within the park's boundary; a resort-style hotel that offers large suites and a mix of more private cottages in addition to standard guest rooms in the main lodge. Single queen guest room without view, from $360.
Chéticamp and Ingonish
Before entering the park from the south, motels, B&B's and cabin rentals are available. See Ingonish or Chéticamp.
Camping
The park has three large campgrounds which feature taps for drinking water, showers, flush toilets and sites that can accommodate tents, trailers, and RVs.
- 2 Broad Cove. The park's largest campground, with 202 camp sites, and 6 "oTENTik" sites (glamping-style tent-cabins). Kitchen shelters with wood stoves are shared throughout the unserviced areas. Picnic shelters and laundry facilities are centrally located. Some site are serviced with electrical, water and sewage connections.
- 3 Chéticamp. 122 campites, including 10 oTENTik sites. Kitchen shelters with wood stoves are shared throughout the unserviced areas. Some site are serviced, with electrical, water and sewage connections.
- 4 Ingonish Beach. 60 unserviced camp site, and 4 oTENTik sites.
The park's newest campground features only walk-in sites, while still providing the amenities of other car campgrounds.
- 5 Mkwesaqtuk/Cap-Rouge. 42 unserviced tent sites and 5 oTENTiks. Campers park in the central lot, and can borrow a cart to carry equipment to their site. Kitchen and picnic shelters available. Food lockers are provided throughout the campground. A small rocky beach is connected to the campground by a short trail.
Austere campgrounds are smaller, with fewer amenities for campers. There is no potable water available, and toilet facilities are more basic. Sites cannot be reserved.
- 6 Corney Brook. Open layout campground squeezed between French Mountain and the Gulf of St. Lawrence with 22 unserviced sites. A kitchen shelter is centrally located. Swimming is possible at the small rocky beach.
- 7 MacIntosh Brook. 10 unserviced sites in an open layout. Features a kitchen shelter, playground, and a connection to the Macintosh Brook hiking trail, with waterfall views.
- 8 Big Intervale. 5 unserviced sites; the campground is located directly off of the Cabot Trail.
Backcountry camping is only possible at Fishing Cove. It is not permitted to camp anywhere else in the park's interior without the permission of a park warden.
- 9 Fishing Cove. 8 platforms for wilderness camping can be reserved for Leave-no-trace camping; there are no services or amenities on site. Campers will need to hike about 6 km (3.7 mi) down the coastline from the Cabot Trail to access the camping area. Fires are not permitted. Potable water is not available. The extra effort lets campers wake up to peaceful ocean views watch the sunset over the cove.
Fees per night:
- Primitive with pit privies (Big Intervale) $17.60
- Unserviced with toilets only
- MacIntosh Brook and Overflow $21.50
- Corney Brook - high occupancy rate $23.50
- Unserviced with toilets and showers:
- Chéticamp and Broad Cove $25.50
- High occupancy rate (Cheticamp, Broad Cove & Ingonish Beach) $27.40
- Serviced with electricity (Chéticamp) $29.40
- Serviced with electricity, water, and sewer
- Chéticamp and Broad Cove $35.30
- High occupancy rate $38.20
- Equipped camping (Chéticamp & Ingonish Beach) $70.00
- oTENTik (Chéticamp, Broad Cove & Ingonish Beach) $100.00
Backcountry
There is one backcountry site at Fishing Cove. It is accessible by one of two paths, one twice as long as the other.
- Fee per person overnight $9.80
Stay safe
There have been numerous serious encounters with coyotes. Heed the advice available at the Visitors Centres. Despite their imposing appearance and reputation, black bears do not pose a great risk as long as the regular precautions are taken. If camping or hiking inquire as to bear safety tips.
The Cabot Trail is a popular destination for bicyclists and motorcyclists. Take necessary precautions to share the road.
Go next
Many visitors combine a visit to the park with a journey to the far north of the island at Meat Cove.