Christianshavn
Christianshavn is a district east of the inner city of Copenhagen. Once a working-class neighbourhood, today Christianshavn is a trendy part of the city with its own unique identity. people from all walks of life, live side-by-side among cool cafes, old school bodegas, fancy restaurants and charming 19th-century houses along picturesque canals. Further north, Holmen is an old naval area, that has seen a dramatic change in the past few years, with the old buildings being updated for residence, along with new dramatic architecture - fittingly a new home of the royal Danish school of architecture.
Understand
Christianshavn is an artificial island, erected in the swampy area between what is now the Inner city and the island of Amager, by King Christian the 4th, as a grand unification of his mad dash of construction projects, and his ambitions to develop Denmark into a major Naval power.
The district was built as part of the southern fortification of Copenhagen in the early 17th century. It was designed in the image of Amsterdam, with a canal cutting straight through the centre — from this point Danish merchants were to expand trade over the seven seas, a heritage that is still very visible today, with the forest of masts from the sailing ships docked along the canal, and the century-old watering holes of sailors still handing out beers and snaps to thirsty passers by.
In the early days Christianshavn was an independent city, until it was swallowed by the rapidly expanding capital, but it retains a unique atmosphere — and the people refer to themselves at Christianhavners first, and then as Copenhageners. In many ways Christianshavn is still a small town in a big city. Diversity is thriving here, and the district has managed to embrace people from all walks of life; from the alcoholic sipping beer at the corner, to the marketing yuppie, and form its own special identity stemming from this diversity.
Get in
Christianshavn and the subdistrict of Holmen are on a peninsula stretching out north through the old fortifications. Because it is virtually surrounded by water, the only access is across the Knippelsbro Bridge and the dam to Amager. It is entirely located within Zone 1 of the common ticketing system of the Metro, trains and buses. If you prefer not to pay for mass transit, it is a pleasant 10-minute walk from Strøget on Amagertorv, past the parliament, and over the Knippelsbro Bridge.
By bus
The backbone of bus transport in central Copenhagen are the A buses operated by Movia, which run every few minutes throughout the day. The S Buses are express buses that operate on longer lines, with fewer stops. Christianshavn's Square is the major stop, with stops by 3 different buslines, and interchange to the Metro.
- 2A starts at the Tingbjerg district in the North Western part of Copenhagen, and runs through downtown, with stops at Rådhuspladen (the central square) and the central station, before it crosses the harbour, and runs through Christianshavn on Torvegade, with stops at Asiatisk Plads (Ministry of foreign affairs) and the Metro station on Christianshavn Square. It terminates at Kastrup metro station on Amager.
- 9A starts at Glostrup Station in the suburb of Glostrup, west of Copenhagen. Run through Rødovre, Vanløse and Frederiksberg before reaching inner city with stops on Copenhagen Central Station and Christiansborg. It then crosses Knippelsbro bridge, and stops at Christianshavn Square before passing Christiania and ends at Refshaleøen.
- 350S begins its journey in the suburb of Herlev, north west of Copenhagen. And runs through the inner city with stops on Nørreport station and Kongens Nytorv square, before it crosses Knippelsbro bridge, and stops at Christianshavn Square. It continues onwards to Amager, and terminates in picturesque Dragør south of the Airport.
By metro
The M1 or M2 metro lines stop at Christianshavn in the center of the district at Christianshavn Square. Interchange between the S-train system and the metro is provided at Nørreport station.
By boat
The water buses (Bus 901 and 902) have to stops on Holmen (Holmen nord and Opera). The water buses only sail in the summer.
You can sail in your own boat to Lynetten Marina.
The Canal-Tour Waterbus have several stops on Holmen.
Get around
By bus
Bus line 9A enters Christianshavn over the Knippels bridge, from the city centre, and turns north at Christianshavns square, along Prinsessegade - where it stops at Vor Frelsers church, and Christianias main entrance, from where it continues on the bridge across to Holmen and terminates at Refshaleøen.
By bike
Christianshavn's small, quiet streets are excellent for sightseeing on a bike, and the free citybike system covers the entire district, there are stalls at Christianshavn torv, Asiatisk Plads (near the Ministry of Foreign Affairs), Church of our Saviour, at the main entrance to Christiania, and the central square of Holmen.
See
Christianshavn's main attraction, is Christianshavn itself. It bears some resemblance to Amsterdam, with its quiet streets branching out from the main canal, flanked by old houses, in bright colours, some dating back to 18th century - one of the photogenic ones is Amagergade on the right side of the main street, at the end nearest the dam to Amager. And of course the green oasis of the free town Christiania, with its creative home build houses, covered in its own guide.
- Christiania 1 (Fristaden Christiania; or just 'Christiania' or 'Staden') (Enter from Prinsessegade). Open 24 hours. Since its establishment in a former military area in 1971, Christiania has been a partially self-governed and semi-legal community of 85 acres (34 hectares). It has more than 1,000 inhabitants and more than a million people visiting every year. Christiania has bars, cafes, restaurants and concert venues. Christinia is car-free with small paths and a lot of green and water areas. Staden has throughout the years been a subject for controversy. In the 2010s, the district has moved towards legalisation and normalisation, and Danish law is now applied in Christiania. In September 2016, residents tore down "pusher street" after a fatal shooting occurred during a drug bust. They have asked visitors to buy their cannabis somewhere else, and do not want the dealers to return. As of June 2018 the drug dealers are back, and photos are not welcome. Free.
- 2 Dansk Arkitektur Center (Danish Architecture Centre), Strandgade 27B, ☏ +45 3257 1930, dac@dac.dk. Daily 10:00-17:00, W until 21:00. Each year, 5-10 exhibitions on Danish and foreign architecture can been seen here. Conferences, lectures and guided tours are held in connection with exhibitions. Adults 60 kr, students 40 kr, under 18 years free. Free admission on Wednesdays 17:00-21:00.
- 3 Nordatlantens brygge, Strandgade 91, ☏ +45 32 83 37 00, bryggen@bryggen.dk. M-F 10:00-17:00, Sa Su 12:00-17:00. Nordatlantens Brygge is a cultural house where you can experience culture and arts from the North Atlantic region. Housed in an old dock building, there are 3 exhibition halls with changing exhibitions, performances and lectures. 40 kr.
- 4 Overgaden, institut for samtidskunst (Institute for contemporary art), Overgaden Neden Vandet 17, ☏ +45 32 57 72 73, info@overgaden.org. Tu-Su 13:00-17:00, Th 13:00-20:00. Established in 1986 by a group of local artists, Overgaden has for more than two decades been among the leading non-profit exhibition spaces for contemporary art in Copenhagen. Free.
- Skibene på Holmen (The Historic ships on Holmen), Elefanten, Nyholm, ☏ +45 33 11 60 37. 1 July-15 August 11:00-17:00. A collection of 3 cold war warships; The large Frigate Peder Skram, The last Danish submarine Sælen famed for her participation in the War on Iraq in 2003 and protection of Norwegian waters during the Cold War. Also on display is P 547 Sehested, the last fast attack boat in the Royal Danish Navy. Apart of the summer opening, the ships are open during most school breaks, and for larger groups at any time of year. Combination ticket: 70 kr.
- 5 Spejdermuseet (The scouts museum), Arsenalvej 100, ☏ +45 32 64 00 59. W 17:00-20:00, Th 14:00-17:00, Su 11:00-15:00. Housed in a 250-year-old arsenal building, this museum showcases the history of the Scouts movement in Denmark, back to its beginning in 1905, through models, old equipment, posters etc. Free.
- 6 Treschows Stiftelse, Overgaden oven Vandet 76-82. This listed building complex was erected in 1850s to provide housing for women in need by what was later to become the Treschow foundation, created by the Copenhagen attorney Frederik Treschow of the famous Treschow family. Finding your way to the buildings may be a bit of a challenge, but you will be rewarded by the serene atmosphere that remains there.
- 7 Christianshavns Mound (Christianshavns Vold) (enter just after crossing to Amager over the bridge Langebro; or from Torvegade a bit after crossing the bridge Knippelsbro). Open 24 hours. Christianshavns Mound is part of Copenhagen's old defense system. It is now an excellent area for a walk surrounded by green and water, passing a number of historical buildings, cafes and restaurants. Christianshavns Mound was built by Christian IV in 1618-23 and was further developed in the following centuries. The defense purpose ceased towards the end of the 19th century and public access to the area was successively established in 1961. Free.
- 8 Copenhagen Contemporary (CC), Refshalevej 173A, 1432 Copenhagen K, contact@cphco.org. F-W 11:00-18:00, Th 11:00-21:00, M Tu closed. As one of the great contemporary museums of Copenhagen it gives space to large-scale modern installations. Can be well combined with a visit to the Reffen food court area next to it. kr 120, kr 95 for students, children up to 17 are free.
Do
- 1 Christianshavns bådudlejning of café (Christianshavn boat rental and cafe), Overgaden neden Vandet 29, ☏ +45 32 96 53 53, ohoj@baadudlejningen.dk. Interesting mix of a café on a floating dock in the canal, that also rents out rowing boats for sailing in the canals of Christianshavn. Also sells picnic baskets for the boats. 80 kr/hour.
- Kajak ole, Strandgade 50, ☏ +45 40 50 40 06. This outfit conducts guided kayaking tours around the canals of Christianshavn and Holmen. The owner is a nice friendly dude, that has been doing his tours for more than 10 years. the 3 standard tours ranges between 1½-3 hours, but you can also request special individual tours. Also arranges hilarious kayak water polo games. from 245 kr.
- 2 The Operahouse, Ekvipagemestervej 10, ☏ +45 33 69 69 33. 17:00-last show. Opened in 2005 in a striking building overlooking the harbour, designed by world renowned architect Henning Larsen. Mainly hosts operas, but occasionally shows contemporary music concerts, and plays. For operas there are always 25 tickets reserved for selling on the day. Price varies.
- 3 Vor Frelsers Kirke (Church of our saviour), Sankt Annæ Gade 29, ☏ +45 32 54 68 83, info@vorfrelserskirke.dk. Church 11:00-15:30, tower 10:00-16:00 (winter), 09:30-21:00 (summer). Climb the 400 steps to the top of the spire of the church for panoramic views of Copenhagen. The last steps are on the outside of the spire. Rumor has it that that the designer throw himself out the tower, when he discovered the rotation of the stairs was the wrong way, so that sword fights would have to be fought with the left hand, however the spiraling stairs was meant to symbol the ascend into heaven. Tower full price: 35 kr (winter), 50 kr (summer).
Buy
Shopping possibilities on Christianshavn aren't as extensive as in other parts of Copenhagen, but there several small and interesting stores dotted around Christianshavn's quite side streets, and on Christiania. Groceries can be bought in the Super Brugsen on the Christianshavns Torv, Christianshavns central square where the metro station is located.
- Ceramic Studio and Shop, Wilders Plads 9B, ☏ +45 32 96 29 20. This is a combined studio and shop for the two ceramicists Inge Vincent and Karin Michelsen, carrying products in the beautiful Scandinavian design tradition.
- Ginnungagab, Overgaden oven Vandet 4A, ☏ +45 32 54 22 11. M-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 11:00-15:00. A place to go for some alternative souvenirs, the store is specialized in products of leather and wool, from Scandinavia and Greenland, like clothing, shoes and bags. It also carries the vikings preferred alcohol; mead, and organic vegetables. Have fun pronouncing the name, when asking directions for the store.
Eat
- 1 Lola, Christianshavns Voldgade 50, ☏ +45 53555863. Nice restaurant in romantic green surroundings. Many vegetarian dishes. 525 kr for dinner menu, 150 kr for lunch.
- 2 Christianshavns Færgecafé, Strandgade 50, ☏ +45 32544624. M-F 11:30-16:30,18:00-22:00, Su 11:30-17:30. Sandwiches, traditional smørrebrød, and salads. Dinner DKK 170, lunch from DKK 90.
- 3 Café Wilder, Wildersgade 56, ☏ +45 32 54 71 83. M-Th 09:00-00:00, F Sa 09:00-02:00, Su 09:30-00:00. Good simple food for brunch, lunch, dinner, or just a drink. Lunch from 60 kr, Mains: 145 kr.
- 4 Lynetten, Refshalevej 200, ☏ +45 32960055. Daily 12:00-21:00. Restaurant on the Lynetten Marina, which serves traditional Danish food. Dish of the day from 89 kr.
- 5 Ravelinen, Torvegade 79, ☏ +45 32962045, post@ravelinen.dk. Daily 11:30-00:00. Very traditional summer restaurant in townhouse from 1728, serving traditional Danish cuisine including smørrebrød, in either the beautiful building, or on an outdoor balcony with view over a canal. Lunch from 62 kr, mains from 142 kr.
- 6 Spicey Kitchen, Torvegade 56, ☏ +45 32 95 28 29. Daily 17:00-22:00. Very cheap Indian style food, including some vegetarian dishes. Mains from kr 45.
- 7 Viva, Langebrogade Kaj 570, ☏ +45 27 25 05 05. M-Sa 17:00-22:00, Su 17:30-21:00. Unique dining on an old ship docked in the harbor, stylishly propped up to be a restaurant, with indoor and outdoor seating. Perfect for a romantic evening in the summer (open year round). Mains from 165 kr.
- 8 Asador Argentino, Overgaden Neden Vandet 17, ☏ +45 32 54 54 08. Daily 17:30-00:00. Argentine restaurant specializing in tasty charcoal-grilled Argentine steaks, served with good Argentine wine. Limited outdoor garden seating for summer days. Mains from 145 kr.
- 9 Reffen (Copenhagen Street Food), Refshalevej 167A (Bus 2A from Christianshavn Metro station, or harbour bus 991-992). spring until the end of September or as long as the weather permits.. A range of splendid food stall options with outdoor and indoor seating, and a night club (Werkstatt) at night. ca kr 100 for most dishes.
Splurge
- 10 Noma, Refshalevej 96. Noma has repeatedly been named the best in the world by the reputable British magazine Restaurant. The restaurant specializes specifically in Nordic cuisine: if it's not from Scandinavia, it's not on the menu, and that includes even mundane ingredients such as olive oil or garlic. The chef finds unique Nordic ingredients and combines them in inventive ways to create extraordinary dishes. Reopened in 2018, the new venue just north of Christianshavn, includes a large garden. Bookings are essential, months in advance preferably.
Drink
- 1 Fingerbøllet, Wildersgade 39, ☏ +45 32 54 67 17. M-Sa 11:00-02:00, Su 12:00-02:00. This bar is unpretentious and old school, a hangout for alcoholics, seamen, and students - who feast on the low prices, and plays a game dices or billiards, with rock or country music blasting out the speakers.
- 2 Eiffel Bar, Wildersgade 58, ☏ +45 32 57 70 92. Daily 09:00-02:00. Eiffel bar has something of a 1930s Paris feel to it, although the Can Can girls has disappeared since the place it opened in 1736. The crowd here is as diverse as the district, but definitely not pretentious. Bottled beers: 24 kr (20 at lunchtime).
- Halvandet, Refshalevej 325 (Holmen), ☏ +45 70 27 02 96. Open from 11:00 until it becomes to cold at night. Restaurant, bar, and beach bar. Halvandet has two big warehouses. Outside a big area is filled with sand to create, a beach-bar, a beach volleyball court, and a beach-football (soccer) field. A warm summer evening, sitting with a cold beer in a beach chair at the edge of the quay, this is probably the most relaxing place in Copenhagen to have a drink. Brunch 95 kr, main course 95 kr.
- 3 Kontiki Bar, Takkeloftvej 1, ☏ +45 29 46 54 17. Bar on poles in the canal behind the architect school. Connect to the restaurant boat, "Ellen". Also have sandwiches and other food.
Sleep
- Hotel CPH Living, Langebrogade Kaj 70, ☏ +45 61 60 85 46. This hotel is a boat floating in the harbour, with huge floor to ceiling windows facing the water, providing an excellent view. 1495 kr for a double.