Kichijoji
Kichijoji (吉祥寺 Kichijōji) is a western suburb of Musashino, Tokyo. The general area also extends into Mitaka. The highlight is Inokashira Park, with long walking paths surrounding a lake. The park is filled with both cherry trees and maple trees, making Inokashira Park an excellent choice for both flower viewing in the spring, and seeing the autumn colors in the fall. Kichijoji once enjoyed a reputation as an artists' colony, and today it is filled with stores from little boutiques to the big department stores. Kichijoji seems to attract everyone, from upscale shoppers, hip-hop dancers practicing in the train station to musicians playing live music in the park and at the many live houses in the vicinity.
Get in
By train
Kichijoji is on the JR Chūō Line (中央線) and Sōbu Line (総武線) from Shinjuku Station, and the Inokashira Line (井の頭線) from Shibuya Station. Chūō trains depart from Tokyo Station on platforms 1 and 2 (30 minutes; ¥410), and from Shinjuku on platform 10 (15 minutes; ¥230). Avoid the Chuo Special Rapid (中央特快) and Ome Special Rapid (青梅特快), which do not stop here.
Kichijoji is also the terminus of the Keio Inokashira Line (京王井の頭線) from Shibuya. This is the best way to reach Kichijoji from Shibuya (18 minutes; ¥230). The local train takes a long time, so it is often worth waiting for or switching to the express train.
By bus
Bus service connects Kichijoji directly with Narita Airport and Haneda Airport. Pick up the bus on the east side of the train station, underneath the JR tracks. Reservations are highly recommended during peak times, with tickets available at the Odakyu Bus ticket window (小田急バス案内所) on the north side of the station, across from Sun Road. Buses for Narita depart once every hour or two, take 90-120 minutes depending on traffic, and the one-way fare is ¥3000. Buses for Haneda run in the morning and evening, cost 50-90 minutes, and the one-way fare is ¥1200.
By bicycle
When arriving in Kichijoji by bicycle, parking is a concern. The police are vigilant about bikes parked illegally, particularly near the station and in busy areas. Illegally parked bikes might be tagged with a warning or impounded. There are numerous bike parking areas. The easiest to find is a 24h multi-floor bicycle parking area about 30m north of Yodobashi Camera. This parking area, and many of the others, has the first two hours free and ¥100 for 12 hour segments thereafter.
See
- 1 Kichijoji Art Museum (吉祥寺美術館), 1-8-16 Kichijoji Honcho, ☏ +81 422-22-0385. Information is only available in Japanese.
- 2 Kichijoji Theatre (吉祥寺シアター), 1-33-22 Kichijoji Honcho, ☏ +81 422-22-0911. A live show venue. Shows are only in Japanese.
- Kichijoji Anime Wonderland. A large animation festival that occurs in mid-October every year. English-language tours of the festival may be available from tour operator H.I.S. The last edition to date was held in 2020, with its future unsure.
- Kichijoji Petit Mura (Cat House). Wonderful whimsical architecture that was 'built by a cat'. There is a cafe and a couple shops here. In back backstreets of Kichijoji but well worth a visit, unique in Japan. Free.
Buy
Stores in Kichijoji range from galleries and boutiques that are an outgrowth of the area's artist colony past, to the department stores Marui and Tokyu. Foreign chains such as Oshman's sporting goods and Lush have set up shop here as well. Sunroad is a long, covered shopping arcade on the north side of the station. Wind through narrow alleys of goods shops and yakitori restaurants in Harmonica Yokochō, also on the north side. Nakamichi Street, northwest of the station, has boutique stores and mid-range restaurants. If you're looking for bohemian-styled clothing or accessories, the alleyways running directly between Kichijoji Station and Inokashira Park is arguably the best place in Tokyo to begin your search.
- 1 Yodobashi Camera, 1-19-1 Kichijoji Honcho (Just north of Kichijoji Station on the right.). A famous Japanese department store selling computers, components, cameras, household appliances, and pretty much anything electronic.
- 2 Yuzawaya, 2-1-25 Kichijoji Minamicho, 8-9F Kirarina Keio Kichijoji. A handicraft shop adjacent to the station. There are two floors of crafting materials. The dedicated shopper may find interesting souvenirs on the fabric floor.
- 3 Onao (大直) (On the fourth floor of Loft.), ☏ +81 422-23-2673. A nice selection of traditional Japanese paper and related souvenirs. The website has some English info about papers and their shops.
- RAG TAG, minamicho 1-8-6, ☏ +81 422-70-5850. 11AM-8PM. Vintage clothes shop for popular brands.
Eat
Budget
- Baobab: World Kichen Y Musica, B1F, Kichijoji Minamicho 2-4-6, ☏ +81 422-76-2430. Food and music from the Caribbean, South America, Africa, and Asia. Dishes ¥500-900.
- Bubuka (ぶぶか), Kichijoji Minamicho 1-2-3 (Turn left coming out of the station's south exit.), ☏ +81 422-41-8180. Daily 11:30AM-midnight. The abura soba served at this ramen restaurant is a welcome break from the usual salty and soupy ramen. Actually ramen not soba, abura soba is served with no soup, but does include the usual green onion, slice of pork, etc. An interesting addition is raw egg (nama tamago). Look for the store with the line in front — it is a popular place. ¥500-900.
- 1 Kichijoji Satō (吉祥寺さとう) (One minute from the north exit of JR Kichijoji Station.). Famous for its ball-shaped deep-fried mincemeat cutlets (menchi katsu, \270 apiece) which you can get as take-out, and there's usually a long line of customers spilling out into the shopping arcade. Has a steakhouse upstairs.
- 2 Harmonica Quina, Kichijoji Honcho 1-1-8, ☏ +81 422-21-6607. 11:30AM-10PM (last order 9:30PM). In the Harmonica Alley, across from the Kichijoji Station, there is a little shop serving the uniquely Okinawan dish called taco rice. Taco meat and all the usual taco toppings, all over rice. Surprising and tasty! ¥690-¥850.
Mid-range
- 3 Bloomoon (ブルームーン), 2F Kato Bldg, Kichijoji Honcho 1-30-16 (3 blocks SE of Yodobashi Camera.), ☏ +81 422-22-6171. Tu-Sa 5:30PM-1AM, Su 5:30PM-midnight. This restaurant has an eclectic selection of Asian food and international interior decorations. The bizarre mixture of furniture from various countries and of assorted ages makes the mind boggle. Dishes ¥800 and up.
- Capricciosa, Kichijoji Honcho 2-16-12 (Down a small street at the back of Tokyu.), ☏ +81 422-21-7881. An Italian-style chain restaurant.
- 4 Hachijuhachiya (八十八夜), 御殿山1-2-1 御殿山デュープレックスR'S 2階 (From the west entrance to Atre, go south half a block. The restaurant is on the west side of the street on the second floor.), ☏ +81 422-24-9490. 11AM-11PM daily. This restaurant serves western-style vegetarian and vegan sandwiches and salads. Oddly, the atmosphere is more reminiscent of a coffee shop near a college than a restaurant. Lights dangle from long cords from the ceiling and hover just above the table surface. Dishes ¥600-1200.
- 5 Iseya (いせや), Kichijoji Minamicho 1-15-8 (From the south exit of Kichijoji Station take the shopping street toward Inokashira Park.), ☏ +81 422-43-2806. This yakitori (grilled chicken) tavern is a Kichijoji institution, first opening in 1928. The interior scene could be straight out of a 1950s black-and-white movie, full of raucous salarymen drowning their troubles in tall glasses of beer. This is the smaller branch shop; the main shop, housed in a marvelous old wooden building from 1953 to 2006, reopened as the base of a modern apartment tower in October 2007.
- 6 Jiima (じいま), Yuniasu Inokashira 101, Kichijoji Minamicho 2-13-13, ☏ +81 422-41-1552, fax: +81 90-2238-2441. This restaurant is small — only room for 20. However, the meat and fish are quite good, and the young and energetic wait staff make for a worthwhile visit. ¥1500-3000.
- 7 La Befana (ラ・ベファーナ), Kichijoji Minamicho 1-10-11 (About 200m S of Kichijoji Station.), ☏ +81 422-71-4800. An Italian restaurant serving pasta and pizza. The restaurant can get packed on Friday and Saturday nights, at which time reservations are recommended.
- 8 Monk's Foods, Kichijoji Gotenyama 1-2-4 (4 min. from south exit along Koen-dori), ☏ +81 422-48-3977. Th-Tu. Buddhist ascetics and quirky jazz pianists alike will feel at home at this cozy "slow food" restaurant. The fare is organically-grown, mostly vegetarian/vegan home-style Japanese. When you sit down, the owner will almost certainly ask if you can read the Japanese-only menu, if you look like you can't. If that's the case, just pick one of the three daily specials — vegetarian, fish, or chicken. Chances are you'll get something you like, along with some other exotic healthy vegetable that you won't like.
- 9 Richouen (李朝園), Cosmo Building 4F, Kichijoji Honcho (A block north and a block west of Kichijoji Station), ☏ +81 422-21-4004. This is a very large yakiniku place. It has patchwork architecture and tasty meat. ¥2000-4000.
- Shimanchu Shokudo Niraikanai, Kichijoji Honcho 1-23-7, ☏ +81 422-22-4877. Okinawa-themed restaurant and bar. Head downstairs for the Hawaiian-themed bar Jingle-Jangle.
- 10 Unatetsu (うな鐡), Kichijoji Honcho 1-8-21 (From Kichijoji Station, enter Sunroad. Walk north to Matsuya and turn west. Go about 50m and look for the restaurant down a narrow alley on your right.), ☏ +81 422-21-4522. This is a sushi restaurant that specializes in eel, as its name indicates. ¥1500-3000.
- 11 Village Vanguard Diner (ヴィレッジヴァンガードダイナ―), Kichijoji Honcho 2-20-1, ☏ +81 422-22-1003. A burger and beer joint with a large variety of burgers and international drinks. Run by Village Vanguard, a chain of variety/bookstores.
Splurge
Cafes
- 12 Cat Cafe Calico (きゃりこ), Kichijoji Minamicho 1-5-7, Yuki Bldg. 4F (From Kichijoji Station's central exit, turn right and look on the left up a busy lane.), ☏ +81 422-29-8353. 10AM-10PM. Enjoy the company of this cafe's 15 cats as you sip your coffee or tea. An outlet for cat lovers who don't or can't keep cats at home, this cafe was covered in news wire reports in late 2007. Has another branch at Shinjuku. Entrance fee ¥900, drinks from ¥150.
- 13 Tsuru's Original Roast Beans (自家焙煎 珈琲散歩), Kichijoji Honcho 4-6-1 (On Nakamichi Street across from 7-11.), ☏ +81 422-21-6722. 11AM-7PM. Beans roasted to order, nicely-made lights sweets and a blend coffee to rival them all. Quiet, bright and popular.
Drink
Bars
- 1 Warp, 1-30-10 Kichijoji Honcho, ☏ +81 422-22-3514. A live house with recording studios available for booking.
- 2 Cheeky (チーキー), B1, 1-30-10 Kichijoji Honcho, ☏ +81 422-22-8005. Tu-Su. Formerly the annex of Warp, now independent. Musicians such as Inushiki and Latyr Sy gather there, and collaborate until the brink of dawn. Time spent there is to experience musical and artistic genius.
- 3 Star Pines Cafe (スターパインズカフェ), B1, 1-20-16 Kichijoji Honcho (Just north of Yodabashi Camera.), ☏ +81 422-23-2251. Open until 6AM. A large club and live house. 2 floors and stage.
- 4 Alvorada (アウボラーダ), B1, 1-32-9 Kijijochi Honcho (From Kichijoji Station's north exit, follow the tracks to the east for five minutes.), ☏ +81 422-20-2797. W-Sa 6PM-1AM, Su 6PM-midnight. A cozy Brazilian-style luncheonette and bar with good food and live music.
Pubs
- 5 HUB, Yuki Bldg. B1, 1-5-7 Kichijoji Minamicho (From Kichijoji Station's south exit go west 50m), ☏ +81 422-46-3546. An English-style pub with locations throughout Japan.
Sleep
Hotels in Kichijoji are generally quite expensive. An option some weekend travelers choose is to stay overnight at one of several net cafes near the station. Net cafes won't work for travelers with much luggage or in large groups, and they are not as quiet as proper hotels, but they can be used (by Japanese speakers) in a pinch.
- 1 Kichijoji Tokyu REI Hotel (吉祥寺東急REIホテル), Kichijoji Minamicho 1-6-3 (1 block south of Kichijoji Station.), ☏ +81 422-47-0109, fax: +81 422-43-1811. An upscale branch of a national hotel chain. Single ¥12,500, double ¥22,500.
Connect
There are some net cafes near the station, such as B-Net and Kaikatsu Club (快活クラブ) on the north side and Manboo (マンボー) on the south.
Go next
- The Ghibli Museum is 1 kilometer away — see Mitaka.
- JR train tickets can be reserved and purchased at Kichijoji Station. The nearest convenient shinkansen hub is Tokyo Station, a direct ride on the Chuo Line.
- The Chuo Line itself continues in the east to Nagoya, but if speed is a consideration, the shinkansen is faster.
- Shiojiri is three and a half hours to the east on the Chuo Line.
| Routes through Kichijoji |
| Nagoya ← Takao ← | W  E |
→ Tokyo/Nakano → Tokyo/Shinjuku |
| Mitaka ← | W  E |
→ Tokyo/Suginami → Tokyo/Nakano |