Ajijic
Ajijic is on the lake Chapala in the state of Jalisco. Ajijic is a town of 11,400 people (2020) and is a popular weekend destination for urbanites in the Guadalajara area. It is a charming small town with narrow cobblestone streets and twisty alleys with colorful stucco walls and a brilliant rainbow of colorful flowers cascading off balconies and over garden walls. The town is a popular residence for American retirees and ex-pats and a number of businesses cater to an English-speaking clientele. The town is a designated Pueblo Magico.
Understand
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Ajijic is a place at risk of being taken over by expatriates like San Miguel de Allende, with prices of commodities and housing becoming exorbitant and a bit of an issue with gringo monoculture going on (e.g. not wanting to associate with locals, demanding things be like they are in the US, etc.) While it can feel a bit comforting to be around those of the same background, there are these detractors. Additionally, Lake Chapala suffers after-effects of longstanding industrial dumping which has resulted in elevated levels of pollution and mercury, although it seems to have abated somewhat in the late 2010s due to rising water levels. Even though the lake scenery is very beautiful, you can see evidence of eutrophication, lack of dissolved oxygen, with the abundance of water hyacinth on the lake surface, and swimming and eating fish from the lake may be worth reconsidering.
Get in
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Closest airport is Guadalajara International Airport (GDL IATA). Ajijic is about a 30-minute drive south of the GDL IATA airport or about an hour from central (Centro) Guadalajara.
By bus
[edit]The Chapala bus line provides frequent service to Ajijic with buses that depart Guadalajara's Central Vieja (old bus station) hourly. Most buses are generally clean and modern, though for the newest, most comfortable trip, use the Chapala Plus buses. Buses also depart directly from Guadalajara International Airport. Fares start at about M$80 (US$4) (November 2024).
- 1 Terminal Ajijic (Ajijic Bus Station), Carratera Oriente 10. 05:00 - 22:00. Small station with a waiting room and ticket sales. Buses come from Guadalajara and other small towns around Lake Chapala.
Get around
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There is bus service along the carraterra (main road that runs thru Ajijic). The cost is M$7 per person within Ajijic, M$9 if traveling to Chapala to the east or Jocotepec to the west. There were several covered bus stops, but most had no seating. When you want to get off, you simply push the red button & exit at the rear doors. Be prepared for heavy traffic on Route 23 because it is the only major thruway in Ajijic, and knobbly cobblestones on most of the side streets (bad for those in wheelchairs).
Within Ajijic, there are buses that run on the narrow cobblestone roads that cost only M$7 per person. You stand on the corner and when the bus comes your way, you hold up your arm to signal that you need to ride.
See
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Ajijic is a scenic town in itself. Simply meander the narrow cobblestone streets and alleys to admire the colorful homes and businesses, many with opulent gardens or bouganvillea and other colorful vines cascading off balconies. Keep an eye open for murals along the way. Most streets in Ajijic have several brightly painted murals of historical scenes, nature, and fanciful creations.
- 1 Malecón Ajijic. Prime promenade for enjoying Lake Chapala that also has murals, carvings, and food vendors. Watch out for water hyacinth detracting from the pretty lake views.
- 2 Plaza Principal de Ajijic, Guadalupe Victoria 4. Ajijic's central square/hangout zone with a pavilion and various art; sometimes the site of various functions.
- 3 Centro Cultural, Guadalupe Victoria 5, ☏ +52 376 766 2373. M-Th Sa 08ː00-18ː00, F 10ː00-18ː00, closed Su. Local museum with some art and pottery exhibits, among other things.
- 4 Parroquia San Andres Apostol, Marcos Castellanos 14, ☏ +52 376 766 0922. The obligatory town parish.
- 5 Ajijic Museo de Arte (Art Museum), Flores Magón 3. Tu-Su 10:00 - 17:00. Small museum displaying artworks by and about the local Ajijic community. Attractive, pleasant gallery with excellent views from the outdoor terrace. Limited accessibility for handicapped. M$40.
Do
[edit]- 1 El Tepalo (trailhead off Galeana/Revolucion). An interesting waterfall and vantage point from the Sierra de San Juan Cosalas that you can reach via hiking trail. If you really want to see Lake Chapala from above, try this. The trail is well cleared, wide and easy to follow (look for the white stones) with some steep, rocky areas.
Buy
[edit]- 1 Lake Chapala Farmers Market, 510, Carr Jocotepec-chapala 524, ☏ +52 33 3143 6942. Tuesdays only 09ː30-12ː30. Local vendors selling meat, bakery items, tamales, crafts, even vegan stuff.
Eat
[edit]While the restaurants don't have expansive glamor, the food quality and service are exceptional most of the time; the prices are amazingly low. Some have specials (such as Brewhouse 1/2-price fish/chips on Tuesday eve; or live music at Domenech on Monday) that enhance the offerings. The proprietors are very friendly and will sit and visit with you.
- 1 Ajijic Tango, Morelos 19, Centro, ☏ +52 376 766 2458. Daily 12:30 - 21:00, F-Sa until 22:00. Argentinian steakhouse with an inviting spacious palapa-style dining area. Steaks are king, but pasta, chicken, and fish are available. Creative cocktails, friendly service. M$300+.
- 2 Cocinart Ajijic, 16 de Septiembre 4D, ☏ +52 331 395 3810. W-Su 12:00 - 19:00. Charming small restaurant serving an eclectic menu of Italian and Mexican classic dishes. Italian dishes include several pasta offerings and the Mexican dishes focus mostly on seafood and grilled meats. Open air dining room with outdoor garden dining available. Generous portions. M$300.
- 3 Johanna's, Boulvard De Ajijic 118, ☏ +52 376 766 0437. Tu-Su 12:00 - 19:00, closed M. Pleasant restaurant with outdoor garden seating. Menu is German cuisine, including wurst, schnitzel, rotkraut and sauerkraut. A variety of imported German beers are available. M$250.
- 4 Casa del Waffle, Carretera Pte. 75, ☏ +52 3767661946. Daily 08:00 - 14:00. American-style pancake and waffle house serving fat waffles and stacks of pancakes with too much chocolate syrup and whipped cream. M$200.
- 5 Casa Linda, Río Bravo 7A, ☏ +52 376 108 0887. Tu-Su 12:00 - 20:00, closed M. Upscale restaurant with an international menu and a polished colonial style dining room. Full bar. Attentive service and large portions. M$250.
Drink
[edit]Craft beer
[edit]- 1 Corazon de Malta, De Las Flores 25, ☏ +52 332 051 8843. Tu-Su 12:30 - 22:00, closed M-Tu. Small artesanal craft brewery that makes both ales and lagers and offers a good variety of different styles on tap, including a schwarzbier, a porter, and smooth festbier (marzen). Good, hearty food includes homemade pizzas and impossibly thick onion rings as well as ceviche and other dishes. Like it says on the wall...."beer is where the heart is".
- 2 Cerveceria 8 Maltas, Bajio 3. F-Su 12:00 - 21:00, closed M-Th. Small family-run artesanal brewery that also houses a guest house for overnight visits and a restaurant. There is no truth to the rumor that guest rooms have taps with pale and dark running beer. Available beer styles include a robust porter, a rye IPA, and even a mead.
Sleep
[edit]Most places do not have A/C. While the temps are mild, sometimes, the lack of airflow is stifling at night. And with windows and doors open, come the exterior noises of parties, dogs, and cats. In spite of this, nighttime is typically quiet. The occasional nighttime storm is good reason to close the doors and then; however, this will cause the room to get warm inside. Rooms do not have ceiling fans—only noisy floor-stand fans with short cords. Be prepared to get gouged price-wise somewhat due to where you are.
- 1 Hotel Casa de la Abuela, Hermenegildo Galeana 75, ☏ +52 376 766 1747. Impressive enclosed garden setting around pool, complimentary deluxe breakfast with eggs and french toast, comfortable rooms. Can hike to waterfall from here. M$1244.
- 2 Hotel Lindo Ajijic, Ángel Flores 17A, ☏ +52 33 1865 4766. A bed and breakfast with nice pool setting with great views of lake. Breakfast can be made to order. Sometimes some hot water issues with shower. M$1718.
- 3 La Nueva Posada Ajijic, Donato Guerra 9, ☏ +52 376 766 1344. A cozy inn with Mexican architecture and attractive masonry inside that has an attached restaurant and a grotto-like pool. Close to lake with nice views. M$967.
- 4 LIA Ajijic - Lake Chapala Bed & Breakfast, Guadalupe Victoria 98, ☏ +52 33 1127 8428. Homestay type of place with a decent breakfast and some exercise equipment and Wi-Fi M$750.