The Anaga Rural Park is a national park covering most of the Anaga Massif in the northeast of the island Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands. The Anaga Rural Park is the second most important natural heritage site of Tenerife, after the Teide National Park. There are paleontological sites of scientific importance within the boundaries of the park. It was inhabited by the Guanche people before Spanish colonisation, and has historically been important as grazing grounds.

Understand

The Anaga Rural Park is a protected natural area in the Anaga Massif. It was declared a Biosphere Reserve in 2015 because it is home to the largest number of endemic species in Europe. It covers most of the northeast of Tenerife with an area of 140 km², spread out over 3 municipalities: Santa Cruz de Tenerife, San Cristóbal de La Laguna, and Tegueste.

There are 26 inhabited settlements in the park, accounting for 2500 people or less than 1% of the population of Tenerife's Metropolitan Region. Due to it isolation and the decline of traditional activities such as agriculture, it has seen significant emigration since the 1960s. This allowed the park to retain much of its charm. The largest settlement within the park boundaries is 1 Taganana. The urbanized southeast coast of the islands, with towns like San Andrés, has been excluded from the park.

1 Cruz del Carmen has a 2 visitor centre with information about the park and the routes and trails that traverse it.

History

The area was first protected as a National Park in 1987, and reclassified as a Rural Park in 1994. The Coordination Council of the Canary Network of Biosphere Reserves unanimously presented and approved the proposal to declare the entire Anaga Massif a new Biosphere Reserve in 2013. The Spanish Committee of the UNESCO Program approved the candidacy later that year, and is supported by the regional government of the Canary Islands, as well as the universities of San Cristóbal de La Laguna and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. The park achieved its Biosphere Reserve status during the annual UNESCO meeting held in Paris in 2015.

Landscape

The Anaga Rural Park has a diverse landscape of natural and cultural importance. It is a highland of mountains with sharp peaks and deep ravines. Several geomorphological elements are unique to the island's geology, and of particular scientific interest. Examples include the Chinobre pythons, Anambro, the Taganana arch, and so on.

The highest peak in the park is ca. 1000 m above sea level.

Flora and fauna

Ceropegia dichotoma, one of the species unique to the Anaga Rural Park

Because of the large variation in altitude, from sea level up to 1000 m, there is a variety in flora each tried to their own altitude ranges. Laurel trees are common on the highlands, whereas palm trees and dragos (Dracaena draco, endemic to the Canary Islands) are found at lower altitudes. The park is a zone of special protection for birds, since the forests are a vital habitat for laurisilva pigeons.

Get in

By car

From most directions, you'll want to take the motorway towards La Laguna. On TF-5, take exit 8a (signs for Tegueste and Anaga) and follow the TF-13 to Las Canteras. Turn right onto the TF-12, which will snake its way up into the mountains. From La Laguna, you only need about fifteen minutes until the border of the park.

From Santa Cruz you may want to follow the TF-11 north along the coast ant turn left onto the TF-12 just when you're about to enter San Andrés.

Fees and permits

Hiking is possible in many places, however some areas require a permit to enter. Permits have to be booked online in advance – official information in Spanish: El Pijaral trail, Monte de Aguirre Zone).

Get around

By car

Depending on your driving experience, traffic, and weather conditions, navigating the steep and winding roads of Anaga can be anything from pure joy to stressful horror. Take it slow and be prepared for obstacles lurking behind every corner. Hikers on the road are a common occurrence, and chances are high that you will sooner or later get stuck behind a group of road bikers for a while. In any case, multiply the travel time you'd normally expect for the distance by a factor of 2: The road from La Laguna to Chamorga takes 1:45 to 2 hours.

In the laurisilva zone, you'll be driving though mythical tunnels of gnarly trees hugging the steep mountain slopes. If it's not foggy, the sun poking through the branches makes for a wonderful interplay of light and shadow – at least as long as have it on your back. The constant flickering when facing the sun is tiring and makes it very difficult to spot oncoming traffic. It's thus a good idea to prepare a bit: Clean your windshield from both sides, have your sunglasses ready, and consider turning on your lights so others can see you.

Like elsewhere on the island, parking options are sparse – arriving before the big rush starts around 10 or after it subsides in the late afternoon will greatly increase your chances of finding an empty spot. Cruz del Carmen is particularly popular and almost certain to be stuffed to the brim by lunchtime.

On foot

There are numerous walking trails signposted throughout the park, look for the white signs and yellow-white marks on posts and trees.

There are no loops, and distances are quite considerable (for example the trail from Cruz del Carmen to Bajamar is 10 km). It may be favorable to combine the hike with a TITSA bus ride, i.e. take the bus up to Cruz del Carmen and then walk back to Tegueste, Bajamar, or San Cristóbal de La Laguna.

See

• 1 Mirador de Jardina, Carretera del Monte de las Mercedes (on the way to Cruz del Carmen). 24/7. Magnificent viewpoint overlooking San Cristóbal de La Laguna and El Teide in the distance. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• 2 Llano de los Loros. 24/7. A small viewing platform overlooking the south Anaga valleys and container port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• 3 Cruz del Carmen (bus stop Cruz del Carmen). 24/7. One of the highest viewpoints looking west. It is possible to see the peak of Mount Teide on clear days. The parking lot of Cruz del Carmen is rather small and very popular, so it is recommended to come early when travelling by car to avoid long waiting lines. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• 4 Chapel of Cruz del Carmen (Ermita de la Cruz del Carmen), Cruz del Carmen (bus stop Cruz del Carmen). In 1836 the cross that gives name to this place was placed to bless the walkers who passed through. Already at the end of the 19th century a small chapel was built where the cross stood. In 1961 another chapel was built that was later enlarged until reaching its current dimensions, a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Carmen. (updated Aug 2019)
• Don't forget go to the 5 Pico del Inglés viewpoint where you can see a beautiful view of the island (if the weather is good).

Do

1 Playa de Las Teresitas is a popular artificial white sand beach just east of the capital city. On the northern side, 2 Almáciga and nearby places along the coast have some nice black sand beaches.

Hiking

Anaga is a hiker's paradise. There are numerous walks available, and while some of them require a permit, there are always many alternatives that don't.

• 3 Anaga walking trails, Cruz del Carmen (bus stop Cruz del Carmen). 24/7. Three signposted walking trails, no. 1 accessible by wheelchairs. The longest trail leads to a weather station and viewpoint and takes about 1 hour in dry weather conditions and 1½ hours in rainy weather when mud slows the pace of walking considerably. Walking shoes or good sandals are highly recommended. Free. (updated Aug 2019)
• Chamorga - 4 Roque Bormejo. A round trip starts at a picturesque village of Chamorga, goes through mountains, along the shore (grand views!), a lighthouse Faro de Anaga, Roque Bormejo village and back up through a valley Camino de Roque Bormejo.
• Sendero de El Pijaral: A medium difficulty (almost flat) trail from the 3 La Ensillada parkin lot to 5 Cabezo del Tejo viewpoint through the heart of Anaga's (often) misty laurel forest. A maximum of 45 people are allowed on this trail through the Pijaral nature reserve on any given day. Permits can be booked online 16 days in advance, but they sell out quickly.
• 6 Roque de Taborno ("Matterhorn of Tenerife") - a few hours trek around a picturesque mountain. The path crosses a cliff for a few meters, beware if you are easily scared of heights.

Eat

• 1 Restaurante Cruz del Carmen, TF-12, 205, 38294 La Laguna (Across the road from the visitors center), ☏ +34 922 250 062. F–Tu 11:00–18:00, Sa–Su from 10:00, closed W–Th. Simple local dishes like stews and rabbit in a very convenient location. Can get quite busy at times. (updated Feb 2024)
• 2 Historias Para no Dormir, Camino de Taborno, 43, Taborno, ☏ +34 922 69 02 27. Th–Su 09:00–17:00. Highly regarded restaurant run by a French chef. Make sure to call ahead for a reservation. (updated Feb 2024)

Sleep

Lodging

Accommodation options inside the park are sparse. There are no hotels, but a few a holiday homes available for rent scattered across the area and a couple more concentrated in and around Taganana. An apartment in San Andrés may be a good alternative if you want to spend a lot of time in the park.

• 1 Albergue Montes de Anaga (El Bailadero), alberguedeanaga@idecogestion.net. A hostel up on the mountain ridge right in the heart of the park. Bed linen included, towels for rent. (updated Dec 2023)

Camping

Like anywhere else on the island, wild camping is strictly prohibited anywhere throughout the park. There are no public nor privately-owned camping grounds inside the park either. Your closest options at the edge of the park are in Punta del Hidalgo and Tejina:

• 2 Camping Punta del Hidalgo, C/ Los Corrales, 38240 Punta del Hidalgo, ☏ +34 629 139 203. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 16:00. Municipal camping ground with spots for tents and campers. (updated Feb 2024)
• 3 Camping Invernaderito, Camino la Costa 151, 38260 Tejina, ☏ +34 922 099 498, info@campinginvernaderito.com. Commercial camping ground with spots for tents and campers. (updated Feb 2024)

Go next

• 2 San Andrés — coastal town and failed beach resort with a large artificial white sand beach
• 3 Santa Cruz de Tenerife — the modern capital city of Tenerife
• 4 San Cristóbal de La Laguna — colonial capital overflowing with architectural treasures, and a historic centre that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
• 5 Tegueste — laid back colonial town